i just picked up a lipo battery for my typhoon 3d, but i cant for the life of me figure out how to go into the program mode on the esc. the instructions are very vague to me. i leave the reciever on for 5 seconds in the full throttle position, but do i need to have the battery plugged in first, does the switch on the plane have to be on or off, etc. if someone can help me out by walking me through it, i'd really appreciate it.


Thanks,
Yaniel

The directions are pretty straight forward.
Hold the throttle stick in the full up or full throttle position, and plug the battery into the rx.
Wait 5 seconds, rx will beep 3 times, confirming it's in the programming mode. Within 3 seconds of hearing the 3 beeps, move the throttle lever to 1/2 position. Rx will now go throught the programming menu. First one is battery cut off. First option is lipo. Rx will beep one time.
With in 5 seconds, move the throttle stick to full throttle position, hold for 1 second then return stick to 1/2 position.
Power down the rx. Power up the rx. and you are done, and ready to fly.

I've got the same problem but its not 3 beeps with the Li-Po it should be 4 (one long low beep followed by 3 shorter beeps indicating
a 3 call Li-Po) Only mine doesn't make the third short beep, doesn't go into programing mode, arm the motor or anything. I've tried
trim and end point adjustment as well as reversing on the transmitter with no luck. Battery check showed 11.73v. I've tried another receiver with no luck. A replacement ESC was sent and it does the same thing. Motor never arms. Servos work with battery connected but thats all I can get to work. This is the Plug & Play and has not had the motor turn over the first time since it came out of the box. From what I'm seeing posted and what I'm experiencing, the electronic components in this bird are really inferior poor quality and junk. The aparent lack of quality control in its manufacture is uncalled for. Never in almost 30 years of RC flying have I run into this much of a problem. There is albsolutely no excuse for not living up to its claims. Horizon was good in responding and sending a replacement ESC but it hasn't corrected the problem. They must be used to hearing this problem. You would think park-zone would atleast hook up a battery and receiver to check out its operation before shipping to Horizon. Unless I can do something to correct the problem I will probably send the plane, Li-Po, spare parts etc., etc. back for a refund. This may cause me to reconsider the purchase of a JR 10X later this year.

Well the second ESC wasn't much better. With a friends help we tried his ESC and the motor worked so that was one less item
as a culprit. We then tried his receiver and no difference, same with his battery. With all the switching of components we finally
got into programing mode one time and never again. Even then it would not run the motor so I broke down and went to the local
hobby shop and bought a Phonex 25 ESC. Guess what? Once connected everything worked! Now with 20+ flights everything is still
working ok. The motor combination is weak on hover though, taking most of the throttle for hover. Checked wattage with in-line
meter and it showed 151 watts. Probably should be 200-250 range or more for decent hover. Checking into outrunner for replacement. Making comparisons with number of local useage models and what they are running, how well they work etc., etc.,
etc. So far the motor of choice is E-flite 480 910kv. Looks like it will fit in the cowl as well as turn a big enough prop for the weight
I'm seeing. Plug and Play has turned into more of Unplug Replace and Play.

You have to go negative on the sub trims or negative on the throttle adjustment to get the ESC to arm - simple as that. I have no problems getting a hover on stock batts and motor - to the extent that I have to throttle back slightly to get a hover. Last time I looked it was a plane not a helicopter - so huge time hovers would be outside expectations.

Even going 150% minus on trim would not do it even after getting into program one time. New ESC from aftermarket was the only thing to work.
Yes it will hover at less then full stick but it uses most of the throttle and even more as the LI-Pos go down in charge thus reducing the available
throttle range making it more difficult to control throttle necessary for hover. I'm at sea level so there is no altitude problem involved. Yesterday
I was able to get a fairly stable hover and torque rolling three or four times. The available power for hover does keep you in the upper part of the
throttle range though. With the Li-Po's if I go to the cut off point I can get about 20 minutes running. I hear many comments on how long t runs.
The last part of that run (and not the last few minutes) if trying to hover leaves very little throttle range for control. It will need the last quarter of the stick throw or less just to try to keep the hover. A better 400 class inrunner would improve this as would a 450-480 outrunner (non-geared). From the wattage of the E-flite 400 inrunner listed in the catalog, it would probably do well if you wanted to stay with a gearbox. The only other Typhoon seen locally had a very noisy gearbox and did not fly as well as the one I got. If you check some of the other forums you will see the hover problem is universal. There is a definite lack of power range for doing a hover. With a broader power range, controling a hover will be much easier.