F27 STRYKER Part 7 : The Basics To The Darkest of Dark
06-12-2009, 09:34 AM
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RE: F27 STRYKER Part 7 : The Basics To The Darkest of Dark
Hi Chipped,
Yea ain't it the truth that ya get what ya pay for. I've got a 30 amp esc and the batteries I have are 2200mah 25c 3s. No 4 cells at the moment. Also running hs-81 metal gear servos with 2-56 threaded rod and metal clevises.
Unfortunately living in the middle of nowhere there really aren't any hobby shops that carry airplane stuff, there are a couple that are about 40-50 miles away that mostly do car stuff so I pretty much have to resort to going online for everything. I can run my 72mhz radio without worrying about interference tho, i guess that's a plus.
Yea ain't it the truth that ya get what ya pay for. I've got a 30 amp esc and the batteries I have are 2200mah 25c 3s. No 4 cells at the moment. Also running hs-81 metal gear servos with 2-56 threaded rod and metal clevises.
Unfortunately living in the middle of nowhere there really aren't any hobby shops that carry airplane stuff, there are a couple that are about 40-50 miles away that mostly do car stuff so I pretty much have to resort to going online for everything. I can run my 72mhz radio without worrying about interference tho, i guess that's a plus.
06-13-2009, 09:51 AM
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RE: F27 STRYKER Part 7 : The Basics To The Darkest of Dark
This is why a good PRE-flight is necessary !!!
Went to try for a better video (and faster.....he.....he.....he) but found that the chain link fence did more than just fiberglass damage.
Oh well, need another week before I try again !!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7D8zkChpnSE
Went to try for a better video (and faster.....he.....he.....he) but found that the chain link fence did more than just fiberglass damage.
Oh well, need another week before I try again !!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7D8zkChpnSE
06-13-2009, 03:43 PM
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RE: F27 STRYKER Part 7 : The Basics To The Darkest of Dark
Also............Dudes running GPS with Eagletree or whatever else recording device..................
There is a HUGE improovement to your satellite reception when you install the Aux antannae and face it opposite of the GPS. Thats right, face it down to the runway if you are taking off (I know some dudes wholand inverted) and she will "see" the satellites no matter which way your world is seen, rightside up or upside down................
Look right below the 6.5mm bullet connectors on the motor to see the Aux antannae facing down
There is a HUGE improovement to your satellite reception when you install the Aux antannae and face it opposite of the GPS. Thats right, face it down to the runway if you are taking off (I know some dudes wholand inverted) and she will "see" the satellites no matter which way your world is seen, rightside up or upside down................
Look right below the 6.5mm bullet connectors on the motor to see the Aux antannae facing down
06-14-2009, 12:54 PM
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RE: F27 STRYKER Part 7 : The Basics To The Darkest of Dark
Hello all you dark siders! I have not entered the "dark side" of the stryker yet, but I do enjoy my stock 27C. I do not enjoy replacing the stock motor mount all the time however. I know you guys have done mods to make yours stronger, there is just too much to go through on the million pages of stryker forums. Could someone please direct me to the correct pages that talk about this?
Thanks
Thanks
06-14-2009, 02:49 PM
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RE: F27 STRYKER Part 7 : The Basics To The Darkest of Dark
ORIGINAL: derek2005
Hello all you dark siders! I have not entered the "dark side" of the stryker yet, but I do enjoy my stock 27C. I do not enjoy replacing the stock motor mount all the time however. I know you guys have done mods to make yours stronger, there is just too much to go through on the million pages of stryker forums. Could someone please direct me to the correct pages that talk about this?
Thanks
Hello all you dark siders! I have not entered the "dark side" of the stryker yet, but I do enjoy my stock 27C. I do not enjoy replacing the stock motor mount all the time however. I know you guys have done mods to make yours stronger, there is just too much to go through on the million pages of stryker forums. Could someone please direct me to the correct pages that talk about this?
Thanks
Full writeup with all details coming in part #8 (starting VERY soon!!)
06-14-2009, 05:43 PM
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RE: F27 STRYKER Part 7 : The Basics To The Darkest of Dark
Hello Moparmyway.... way too fast for me to see or fly.... bring it real close to the camera so that I can get a good look... Richard
06-14-2009, 06:12 PM
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RE: F27 STRYKER Part 7 : The Basics To The Darkest of Dark
ORIGINAL: Richard39
Hello Moparmyway.... way too fast for me to see or fly.... bring it real close to the camera so that I can get a good look... Richard
Hello Moparmyway.... way too fast for me to see or fly.... bring it real close to the camera so that I can get a good look... Richard
I have a HUGE amount of details to try to get into my next video.
I cant fly Nemesis untill I get a new servo, or re-gear this one, so the next video will have to wait.
Also it MUST wait for other reasons, I am working on a VERY important project with a looming deadline, so my attention is on that now. Please if everyone will allow me to concentrate on my task at hand, I assure everyone that my next video will be better, and hopefully I might even have 2 different videos from the same flight with one video following the plane the entire flight. Lets see how everything turns out in the next week or so, then it will give me the time to fix Nemesis, I do not want anything leaning in Mr.Murphy's direction.............he follows me enough as it is !!!!!
06-14-2009, 07:16 PM
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RE: F27 STRYKER Part 7 : The Basics To The Darkest of Dark
Hey guys! Today my Stryker came to an end... After a fun fly at thelocal field, I took my Stryker up along with 2 more annoying nitroplanes.
I had less than 30 seconds left on the flight and I wasmaking low passes in front of the runway to stay away from other planeswith steep climbouts at each end, when I slammed at full speed into thewing of a Tiger 60. My left wing was erased, happily the equipment andbattery survived. Its a lesson though, because I may not be a 140 milean hour plane, but I am sure I am faster than anything in the field.Flying with "the pattern" in a Stryker is out of the question, muchless taking your eyes of the plane to look out for traffic. I know fromnow on I will be warning pilots to look out for me, and have them flyat their own risk since I can't look out for them either. On a lightersubject, I had the Medusa upgrade as back project since I have a jet Iam trying to finish. I have a LHS that has the airframe, which I willpick up this week. My debate is how to finish the plane; I am one ofthose guys, who is crazy about looks, so I want it to look awesome. Italked in the past about the Wow planes mixture. If I do that, I willadd weight to the airframe and loose speed. So I have to come up with aquick build with my stock motor, heat sync and play with props. I wasplesantly shocked at the price of the unpainted airframe!
Whatreally sucks is that I have vacation this week! I was hoping to flytill my thumbs gave up or heat stroke... Actually, I will still bedoing that
but without my Stryker! So this may get interesting, the fastest build? Stay tuned...
Fly fast take chances!
Jaime
I had less than 30 seconds left on the flight and I wasmaking low passes in front of the runway to stay away from other planeswith steep climbouts at each end, when I slammed at full speed into thewing of a Tiger 60. My left wing was erased, happily the equipment andbattery survived. Its a lesson though, because I may not be a 140 milean hour plane, but I am sure I am faster than anything in the field.Flying with "the pattern" in a Stryker is out of the question, muchless taking your eyes of the plane to look out for traffic. I know fromnow on I will be warning pilots to look out for me, and have them flyat their own risk since I can't look out for them either. On a lightersubject, I had the Medusa upgrade as back project since I have a jet Iam trying to finish. I have a LHS that has the airframe, which I willpick up this week. My debate is how to finish the plane; I am one ofthose guys, who is crazy about looks, so I want it to look awesome. Italked in the past about the Wow planes mixture. If I do that, I willadd weight to the airframe and loose speed. So I have to come up with aquick build with my stock motor, heat sync and play with props. I wasplesantly shocked at the price of the unpainted airframe!
Whatreally sucks is that I have vacation this week! I was hoping to flytill my thumbs gave up or heat stroke... Actually, I will still bedoing that
but without my Stryker! So this may get interesting, the fastest build? Stay tuned...Fly fast take chances!
Jaime
06-14-2009, 09:55 PM
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RE: F27 STRYKER Part 7 : The Basics To The Darkest of Dark
Hi jaime.mi :=}
Here is a picture of a can of paint that i found interesting, so I bought it and tried it out on a peice of a crashed stryker to see if it would eat the foam.
It did not, so it will allow you to use a regular none water base paint that will stick to it and not come off .
It is best that you put this on a peice of your wreck stryker and use a paint that you want to use on top of it once it dries to be safe before you do a full fuselage to be safe.
I use it with no problems at all, but don't take my world only and test it first, but I think you will love it.
Good luck in your quick build, but also make sure it's safe to fly, when in a hurry we seem to forget things and I would hate to see you or any others get hurt.
joe1
Here is a picture of a can of paint that i found interesting, so I bought it and tried it out on a peice of a crashed stryker to see if it would eat the foam.
It did not, so it will allow you to use a regular none water base paint that will stick to it and not come off .
It is best that you put this on a peice of your wreck stryker and use a paint that you want to use on top of it once it dries to be safe before you do a full fuselage to be safe.
I use it with no problems at all, but don't take my world only and test it first, but I think you will love it.
Good luck in your quick build, but also make sure it's safe to fly, when in a hurry we seem to forget things and I would hate to see you or any others get hurt.
joe1
ORIGINAL: jaime.mi
Hey guys! Today my Stryker came to an end... After a fun fly at thelocal field, I took my Stryker up along with 2 more annoying nitroplanes.
I had less than 30 seconds left on the flight and I wasmaking low passes in front of the runway to stay away from other planeswith steep climbouts at each end, when I slammed at full speed into thewing of a Tiger 60. My left wing was erased, happily the equipment andbattery survived. Its a lesson though, because I may not be a 140 milean hour plane, but I am sure I am faster than anything in the field.Flying with "the pattern" in a Stryker is out of the question, muchless taking your eyes of the plane to look out for traffic. I know fromnow on I will be warning pilots to look out for me, and have them flyat their own risk since I can't look out for them either. On a lightersubject, I had the Medusa upgrade as back project since I have a jet Iam trying to finish. I have a LHS that has the airframe, which I willpick up this week. My debate is how to finish the plane; I am one ofthose guys, who is crazy about looks, so I want it to look awesome. Italked in the past about the Wow planes mixture. If I do that, I willadd weight to the airframe and loose speed. So I have to come up with aquick build with my stock motor, heat sync and play with props. I wasplesantly shocked at the price of the unpainted airframe!
Whatreally sucks is that I have vacation this week! I was hoping to flytill my thumbs gave up or heat stroke... Actually, I will still bedoing that but without my Stryker! So this may get interesting, the fastest build? Stay tuned...
Fly fast take chances!
Jaime
Hey guys! Today my Stryker came to an end... After a fun fly at thelocal field, I took my Stryker up along with 2 more annoying nitroplanes.
I had less than 30 seconds left on the flight and I wasmaking low passes in front of the runway to stay away from other planeswith steep climbouts at each end, when I slammed at full speed into thewing of a Tiger 60. My left wing was erased, happily the equipment andbattery survived. Its a lesson though, because I may not be a 140 milean hour plane, but I am sure I am faster than anything in the field.Flying with "the pattern" in a Stryker is out of the question, muchless taking your eyes of the plane to look out for traffic. I know fromnow on I will be warning pilots to look out for me, and have them flyat their own risk since I can't look out for them either. On a lightersubject, I had the Medusa upgrade as back project since I have a jet Iam trying to finish. I have a LHS that has the airframe, which I willpick up this week. My debate is how to finish the plane; I am one ofthose guys, who is crazy about looks, so I want it to look awesome. Italked in the past about the Wow planes mixture. If I do that, I willadd weight to the airframe and loose speed. So I have to come up with aquick build with my stock motor, heat sync and play with props. I wasplesantly shocked at the price of the unpainted airframe!
Whatreally sucks is that I have vacation this week! I was hoping to flytill my thumbs gave up or heat stroke... Actually, I will still bedoing that
but without my Stryker! So this may get interesting, the fastest build? Stay tuned...Fly fast take chances!
Jaime
06-17-2009, 02:21 AM
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RE: F27 STRYKER Part 7 : The Basics To The Darkest of Dark
jaime.mi,
Sorry to hear about your mid-air collision !!!!
The bright (dark) side is the way you look forward to building another !!!
I can see this one has the Dark Side within !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good Luck with that build, and please post some pictures of it !!!!!!!!!
Sorry to hear about your mid-air collision !!!!
The bright (dark) side is the way you look forward to building another !!!
I can see this one has the Dark Side within !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good Luck with that build, and please post some pictures of it !!!!!!!!!
06-17-2009, 08:38 PM
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RE: F27 STRYKER Part 7 : The Basics To The Darkest of Dark
ozzymoose,
I'm not sure what kind of radio you are using.
But in JR/Spektrum setups for a Stryker;
1st)Trans will be set on Delta wing.
2nd) The left servo gets plugged into the Aileron Ch and right servo into Elevator ch.
3rd) Both servos will need to be reversed electronically in the transmitter.
Let us know if it works out for you.....I'm sure Futaba will have something different than all of the above.
Side note: 2.4 GHz receivers need to go thorugh the binding process...I guess yours is 72 MHz.
Good luck,
__________________________________________________
Folks,
I'm not sure what kind of radio you are using.
But in JR/Spektrum setups for a Stryker;
1st)Trans will be set on Delta wing.
2nd) The left servo gets plugged into the Aileron Ch and right servo into Elevator ch.
3rd) Both servos will need to be reversed electronically in the transmitter.
Let us know if it works out for you.....I'm sure Futaba will have something different than all of the above.
Side note: 2.4 GHz receivers need to go thorugh the binding process...I guess yours is 72 MHz.
Good luck,
__________________________________________________
Folks,
Get the pics of your Strykers ready….Part 8 is getting near….VERY NEAR…(maybe by the weekend).
Will let you know just before …as soon as exact day is known.
You’ll see a link on this thread.
p.s. The new interface for positngs on RCU sucks...look at the weird things in this post and some of my other posts.
Hyperlinks, fonts, font size, font color, Bold, Underline...and some just don't change back.
Gryphon
Hyperlinks, fonts, font size, font color, Bold, Underline...and some just don't change back.
Gryphon
06-17-2009, 08:41 PM
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RE: F27 STRYKER Part 7 : The Basics To The Darkest of Dark
I know this is asked often, so excuse my beating of the dead horse, but, I am sick of the stock motor on the C version and I would like to get a different motor while still using the stock ESC. What suggestions do you all have. I'm not after more speed, but I wouldn't complain about it either.
Thanks for your info!
Derek
Thanks for your info!
Derek
06-17-2009, 08:58 PM
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RE: F27 STRYKER Part 7 : The Basics To The Darkest of Dark
Hi :=}
I'm no expert but have been around for a while.
I would need details on what size prop your running and what size lipo and what the C rating is, also what weight your plane is, that would be a RTF weight.
I think everyone on this site will need this info, but our new Elder will ask you these things.
joe1
I'm no expert but have been around for a while.
I would need details on what size prop your running and what size lipo and what the C rating is, also what weight your plane is, that would be a RTF weight.
I think everyone on this site will need this info, but our new Elder will ask you these things.
joe1
06-17-2009, 09:02 PM
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RE: F27 STRYKER Part 7 : The Basics To The Darkest of Dark
derek2005 ,
The stock F-27C motor is not your limiting factor in the setup. The old 25A (2S/3S) ESC and battery were.
Iassume you have the newer 30A (3S/4S) ESC...So your first bottleneck is the stock battery, then your next limit will be your 30A ESC.
It makes no sense at all to just change your motor. Even a $200 motor will not give you any more performance...not more than a couple of MPHor so at same amp draw. The stock motor can handle more amps, but the battery will have a tough time of it (especially in summer).
First upgrade in power system will be APC E 6X5.5 for 10% speed increase up from 65MPHstock speed up to 72 MPH.
Next the battery...better 3S or even better will be 4S (Stock charger cannot be used on 4S).
I don’t see the reasoning of changing the motor first....please explain why you wanted to before reading this post.
If still wanting to do it after reading this post explain that too.
Pending your future needs etc...a different motor can be suggested.
***If right now you say that you just want a motor with much smaller prop to make more noise now we can set you up with higher KV. If you say that you want a quieter motor swinging larger prop at lower RPM, then we can help there. Other than that Idon't see why the motor needs to be changed now.
A higher quality motor can run a little smoother etc...but surely not a great reason to change a motor...At least tell us you have other plans for motor or that you just want it changed.
You make the call to change motor or not and we will accept your decision.
With better battery, you can swap to a better prop right now…I mean higher load than APC E 6X5.5 (stock is 6X4).
With better 3S battery and possiblya new ESC you can run APCPylon 6.5" diameter prop...we can talk about pitch later...also need to know about you having a wattmeter or not.
The stock F-27C motor is not your limiting factor in the setup. The old 25A (2S/3S) ESC and battery were.
Iassume you have the newer 30A (3S/4S) ESC...So your first bottleneck is the stock battery, then your next limit will be your 30A ESC.
It makes no sense at all to just change your motor. Even a $200 motor will not give you any more performance...not more than a couple of MPHor so at same amp draw. The stock motor can handle more amps, but the battery will have a tough time of it (especially in summer).
First upgrade in power system will be APC E 6X5.5 for 10% speed increase up from 65MPHstock speed up to 72 MPH.
Next the battery...better 3S or even better will be 4S (Stock charger cannot be used on 4S).
I don’t see the reasoning of changing the motor first....please explain why you wanted to before reading this post.
If still wanting to do it after reading this post explain that too.
Pending your future needs etc...a different motor can be suggested.
***If right now you say that you just want a motor with much smaller prop to make more noise now we can set you up with higher KV. If you say that you want a quieter motor swinging larger prop at lower RPM, then we can help there. Other than that Idon't see why the motor needs to be changed now.
A higher quality motor can run a little smoother etc...but surely not a great reason to change a motor...At least tell us you have other plans for motor or that you just want it changed.
You make the call to change motor or not and we will accept your decision.
With better battery, you can swap to a better prop right now…I mean higher load than APC E 6X5.5 (stock is 6X4).
With better 3S battery and possiblya new ESC you can run APCPylon 6.5" diameter prop...we can talk about pitch later...also need to know about you having a wattmeter or not.
***Best bang for the buck (if not caring about stock motor) is to run it on cheap 4S battery at low 30A on stock ESC, using large heat sink on motor and opening up the side air vents to get cooling air to ESC….expect close to 90 MPH. But use full throttle sparingly….start with APC E 5.5X4.5 for longer motor life before moving up…use wattmeter
Later,
Gryphon
Later,
Gryphon
06-17-2009, 09:45 PM
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RE: F27 STRYKER Part 7 : The Basics To The Darkest of Dark
I need to replace the motor or at least the shaft. After a crash, the shaft was bent. I tried to get it straight and It was very close. At low and high RPM's it was fine, but at mid RPMs it would act bent again and this of coarse caused bad vibrations and has been eating through motor mounts. I can't find the shaft anywhere and I don't like the quality on the stock motor anyway. It totally fell apart one for no reason. I put it back together and glued it so it would stay together. I am not looking for different performance, I just want a new motor. If I just need to get stock again, I suppose I will. If there is a cheaper motor that will perform the same. Great.
06-17-2009, 09:53 PM
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RE: F27 STRYKER Part 7 : The Basics To The Darkest of Dark
Joe, thanks for the advice, I will be looking into that product.
Gryphon:
In my new build, I found some very nice balsa elevons, similar to what you did in part 6 post # 124. Are you still favoring CA hinges?
I purchased some nylon dubro pinned. I also saw one other post where you used old school u-line threaded hinges. Do you apply tape at the end or before paint and primer?
Last but not least, I have heard talk of not leaving the outer tip of the elevon exposed as you have in the before mention pictures. I thing winglets look cool and some times they work, so thats where my mind was going.
Fly fast, take chances...
Jaime
Gryphon:
In my new build, I found some very nice balsa elevons, similar to what you did in part 6 post # 124. Are you still favoring CA hinges?
I purchased some nylon dubro pinned. I also saw one other post where you used old school u-line threaded hinges. Do you apply tape at the end or before paint and primer?
Last but not least, I have heard talk of not leaving the outer tip of the elevon exposed as you have in the before mention pictures. I thing winglets look cool and some times they work, so thats where my mind was going.
Fly fast, take chances...
Jaime
06-17-2009, 10:11 PM
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RE: F27 STRYKER Part 7 : The Basics To The Darkest of Dark
Gryphon:
I have gone back to your previous threads on Six and read detail about your elevon construction. Its like going to the library! congratulations and thank you for such great content.
I have carbon fiber cloth, so for looks and strength i am going to cover the top of the elevon in carbon fiber and brush it with epoxy. I then plan to sand the bottom and cover that with 1/32 aircraft plywood.
I know there are speed considerations; on this build, if I can get 110 to 120, I will be a happy camper!
I have gone back to your previous threads on Six and read detail about your elevon construction. Its like going to the library! congratulations and thank you for such great content.
I have carbon fiber cloth, so for looks and strength i am going to cover the top of the elevon in carbon fiber and brush it with epoxy. I then plan to sand the bottom and cover that with 1/32 aircraft plywood.
I know there are speed considerations; on this build, if I can get 110 to 120, I will be a happy camper!
06-17-2009, 10:31 PM
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RE: F27 STRYKER Part 7 : The Basics To The Darkest of Dark
derek2005 ,<o
></o><o></o>
I will ask an internetfriend to hook you up with a Brand new motor with better quality than Stock F-27C motor. He has been getting in some new motors and I am sure he will give you introductory price.I will tell him to PM you. We will be discussing him on the thread before long.<o></o>
<o></o>
Other than that, the first thing that jumps to mind is the ARC 28-37-X series at $50. He will advise you on that too.<o></o>
Note: Stock F-27C motor is closer to 2150KV-2200KV as opposed to the advertised 1880KV.<o></o>
<o></o>
_____________________________________<o></o>
<o></o>
jaime.mi ,<o></o>
<o></o>
I dolike CA hinges, but you cannot have any gap with them because the moving surface can move up and down (I don’t mean rotation). Sealing the gap will help avoid flutter but elevon literally moving up and down cannot be totally overcome when using CA hinges unless you have zero gap. I run zero gap and I do not need to seal anything with tape and the elevon cannot move up and down...it can only rotate up and down with no up and down play.<o></o>
Edit: you can sharpen the hinge side of the elevon to make sure that you get enough rotation before the bind in case you want more throw/deflection. Isand those two inner lips to a sharper point (just a little angle change).
<o></o>
The Extreme tape that I use just wraps around the T.E. so it has more holding it in place. (Not just relying on the epoxy on front side against foam).<o></o>
<o></o>
If at all possible wait a few days because Moparmyway is taking pics of a new buildup as we speak for start of new thread. It has Balsa elevons.<o></o>
I have some pics too.<o></o>
<o></o>
He has used other hinges but for this build to help launch new threadit might be CA hinges.<o></o>
He is hard at work and hoping for the weekend at soonest.<o></o>
That will be a great post for first page of thread.<o></o>
<o></o>
Are you able to concentrate on other things for a few days? (You can always tape elevons with scotch tape to help keep them in place to figure out C.G. and part placement mean while).<o></o>
<o></o>
Make sure that your total finished elevon thickness will not be more than your trailing edge…sand elevon as needed etc….<o></o>
<o></o>
At this point I want to defer hinge posts to him. I will comment a little on part 8.<o></o>
<o></o>
Gryphon
06-18-2009, 01:48 AM
#2845
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RE: F27 STRYKER Part 7 : The Basics To The Darkest of Dark
ORIGINAL: Gryphon
If at all possible wait a few days because Moparmyway is taking pics of a new buildup as we speak for start of new thread. It has Balsa elevons.<o></o>
I have some pics too.<o></o>
<o></o>
He has used other hinges but for this build to help launch new threadit might be CA hinges.<o></o>
He is hard at work and hoping for the weekend at soonest.<o></o>
That will be a great post for first page of thread.<o></o>
<o></o>
Are you able to concentrate on other things for a few days? (You can always tape elevons with scotch tape to help keep them in place to figure out C.G. and part placement mean while).<o></o>
<o></o>
Make sure that your total finished elevon thickness will not be more than your trailing edge…sand elevon as needed etc….<o></o>
<o></o>
At this point I want to defer hinge posts to him. I will comment a little on part 8.<o></o>
<o></o>
Gryphon
Balsa 1 1/2 inch elevons
CA hinges
CF mods
motor mount beef ups
cooling tips
All working toward #8 this weekend. If somebody can keep Mr.Murphy occupied so I can build.....................that would be GREAT !!!!
At this point, I would say that Part #8 SHOULDbe up on Monday
06-18-2009, 08:34 AM
#2847
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RE: F27 STRYKER Part 7 : The Basics To The Darkest of Dark
Gryphon,
Thanks a bunch! I contacted your friend this morning. I do have the 30 amp esc. Everything else is stock. I appreciate everyone's help. You guys are fast to respond!
Derek
Thanks a bunch! I contacted your friend this morning. I do have the 30 amp esc. Everything else is stock. I appreciate everyone's help. You guys are fast to respond!
Derek
06-18-2009, 11:08 AM
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RE: F27 STRYKER Part 7 : The Basics To The Darkest of Dark
anyone have trouble using the Top Flight Power Point Balancer? I can not balance my APC 6X4 sport gas props. The prop will not swing, indicating that the prop is balanced. When I put the prop on and go to full RPM I can see the shaft blur from being out of balance. I put on an old prop that I balanced earlier and it runs OK.
06-18-2009, 11:16 AM
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RE: F27 STRYKER Part 7 : The Basics To The Darkest of Dark
Thanks a ton for the info... Next question: the more i go about this process the more it seems i need a computer transmitter and i dont have one. i'm still just using the stock parkzone green 5 channel trans that comes in the ready to fly package. will the reciever work with this stock trans?
06-18-2009, 06:45 PM
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RE: F27 STRYKER Part 7 : The Basics To The Darkest of Dark
Hey guys
My stryker is so fast , I saw it hit the ground, before I even heard it. Can I get a doppler reading off that?
Walk to get it , and looked down at throttle, and it is still WOT, so in went in full power.
I was trying to make a low past for a doppler recording, and it just turned out to be too fast for slow thumbs like mine.
Not to worry, I have become very adept at using gorilla glue to fix foam.
Now ,Could someone please point me to the co-pilot thread.
I have installed gyros on some of my slow planes and know they work.
It don't look like this now
My stryker is so fast , I saw it hit the ground, before I even heard it. Can I get a doppler reading off that?
Walk to get it , and looked down at throttle, and it is still WOT, so in went in full power.I was trying to make a low past for a doppler recording, and it just turned out to be too fast for slow thumbs like mine.
Not to worry, I have become very adept at using gorilla glue to fix foam.
Now ,Could someone please point me to the co-pilot thread.
I have installed gyros on some of my slow planes and know they work.
It don't look like this now