OMP YAK SERVOS
#51
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (46)
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,017
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Marionville, MO
Mike, thanks for the comments. Yes my kit was one of the very first kits, when i saw this bird i had to have one right away! Mine does have the hardwood joiner and i had to enlarge the hole in the fuse by ALOT to get that hardwood joiner the room required to pivot up and down. It doesnt look bad I think its gonna be a great bird. I am all done covering now and not far from flying it but my new postition at my job is leaving me little time to work on it and to tired too.
Embalmer: I have no idea why the manual is on a cd. I just printed it out it was about 18 pages long I suppose its cheaper for them to produce a CD, when ive went to Kinko's to do color copies they charge like 1.50 per sheet thats alot of money just for a manual! I used pro bond I think thats the same as gorrilla glue and it takes much longer than 4 hours to dry but i think its perfect for the foam.
I would have done a build thread but it doesnt seem anyone is interested when ive done build threads before, maybe im just a bad reviewer! Anyways i like the design of this bird I will likely try some of their other birds soon
Embalmer: I have no idea why the manual is on a cd. I just printed it out it was about 18 pages long I suppose its cheaper for them to produce a CD, when ive went to Kinko's to do color copies they charge like 1.50 per sheet thats alot of money just for a manual! I used pro bond I think thats the same as gorrilla glue and it takes much longer than 4 hours to dry but i think its perfect for the foam.
I would have done a build thread but it doesnt seem anyone is interested when ive done build threads before, maybe im just a bad reviewer! Anyways i like the design of this bird I will likely try some of their other birds soon
#52
OK now I'm confused, Mike I have both the 3/8" square balsa joiner that connects both elevator halves together and the metal rod joiner that ties both elevators halves together. What am I supposed to do in this application? Am I supposed to cut the 3/8" square balsa that ties them togeather?
I've alread got the blocks in place and the holes drilled for the rod.
Thanks
Blackie
I've alread got the blocks in place and the holes drilled for the rod.
Thanks
Blackie
#53
Welll I got my fuselage almost done, and started on the horizontal stab. I am hoping to get the horizontal stab finished tonight, and start on the vertical stab. then off hopefully by the beginning of next week start on the wings. I am hoping it will take me 1 week or less/ wing. then i can work on final assembly and covering.
#54
Member
My Feedback: (5)
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: bay shore, NY,
Sorry guys I have to jump in, Iguess I have the first run, Mine is done w/ a webra 120 and a 17/5 prop.The kit It wanst what I spected,the foam fuse did not jive w/ the plans and the stab had 4 degrees of positive incidence.Well to make the story short I went to the orange box and bought 1 1/2 pink foam,replaced the 36 inch wood for 48 got rid of all the tri stock chuck the 40 size landing gear made my own outof carbon/keblar. 73/4 lbs rtf. Next time post some pic.
#55
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Crest Hill,
IL
[:@]I just looked at my elevator. I have one of the first kits. I have a straight piece of 3/8" balsa going all the way across. I guess I wasn't paying attention and missed putting in the hard wood joiner. OOPS. I already have it covered. Is there a quick and easy way to fix this with out tearing the elevator completely apart.
Thanks,
Craig
Thanks,
Craig
#56
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (46)
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,017
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Marionville, MO
One solution would be to install a second elevator servo and have a servo on each side of the elevator. and extra 1 1/2 oz of servo weight wont hurt a plane this size.
ORIGINAL: ckoerner
[:@]I just looked at my elevator. I have one of the first kits. I have a straight piece of 3/8" balsa going all the way across. I guess I wasn't paying attention and missed putting in the hard wood joiner. OOPS. I already have it covered. Is there a quick and easy way to fix this with out tearing the elevator completely apart.
Thanks,
Craig
[:@]I just looked at my elevator. I have one of the first kits. I have a straight piece of 3/8" balsa going all the way across. I guess I wasn't paying attention and missed putting in the hard wood joiner. OOPS. I already have it covered. Is there a quick and easy way to fix this with out tearing the elevator completely apart.
Thanks,
Craig
#57
i ordered mine yesterday. I will use a magnum 90 2 stroke engine. Any prop recomendations please? What servos are you guys using across the entire plane?
#58
One think I noticed about my kit is the wood for the fuselage.
the kit says the basa sheets are 1/16th of an inch. Mine is the thickest 1/16" balsa I have ever seen. Mine I say is ALMOST 1/8" Nothing a little sanding won't take care of though.
but I did finish my horizontal stab. Except for the elevator joiner wire. I have about 15 more minutes of work, and I will be finished the vertical stab and rudder.
the kit says the basa sheets are 1/16th of an inch. Mine is the thickest 1/16" balsa I have ever seen. Mine I say is ALMOST 1/8" Nothing a little sanding won't take care of though.
but I did finish my horizontal stab. Except for the elevator joiner wire. I have about 15 more minutes of work, and I will be finished the vertical stab and rudder.
#59
Senior Member
My Feedback: (19)
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Evansville, IN
I love snow days. In 24 hours I have the fuse sheeted, end capped, sanded, 1/2 the cutouts done and the stab and elevator made and joined.
The balsa did seem a smidge thick and some of the balsa sticks feel like they are made out of basswood but it has certainly been a pretty quick and easy build to this point. Hope the wing is this easy
Also maybe I went too fast but there is a hardwood strip in the stab, but I saw no hardwood joiner in the elevator. Thats why you epoxy in the joiner wire, you cut the elevator in half anyway. I certainly dont see a need for hardwood in the elevator
The balsa did seem a smidge thick and some of the balsa sticks feel like they are made out of basswood but it has certainly been a pretty quick and easy build to this point. Hope the wing is this easy
Also maybe I went too fast but there is a hardwood strip in the stab, but I saw no hardwood joiner in the elevator. Thats why you epoxy in the joiner wire, you cut the elevator in half anyway. I certainly dont see a need for hardwood in the elevator
#60

My Feedback: (3)
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 4,319
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Beavercreek, OH,
Blackie,
The wire torque rod is the better way to do it versus the hardwood joiner but either will work.
As far as incidence on the stab believe me it IS correct. A couple folks have emailed thinking it was wrong but don't be deceived by the fact the stab is NOT in line with the wing. The engine and wing are on the same center line but the stab is placed above that line. So you cannot draw a line between the wing and the stab and expect them to be nuetral. Note that the plans show separate lines for the wing and stab. Also the trailing edge mounting tab of the wing is belew the center line as well so don't go by that either. That little trick makes it easier to put the bolt through without bumping into the aileron. You have to be careful when gluing the foam fuselage together not to bend it out of shape. Follow the instructions and tape the two halfs together with glue on the joint and over the plans to make sure you have proper alignment. Then sheet away. Also, all 65" YAK kits come with custom 90 size Tetherite gear. This gear is just the ticket for this size plane - thanks again Ray.
Mike
The wire torque rod is the better way to do it versus the hardwood joiner but either will work.
As far as incidence on the stab believe me it IS correct. A couple folks have emailed thinking it was wrong but don't be deceived by the fact the stab is NOT in line with the wing. The engine and wing are on the same center line but the stab is placed above that line. So you cannot draw a line between the wing and the stab and expect them to be nuetral. Note that the plans show separate lines for the wing and stab. Also the trailing edge mounting tab of the wing is belew the center line as well so don't go by that either. That little trick makes it easier to put the bolt through without bumping into the aileron. You have to be careful when gluing the foam fuselage together not to bend it out of shape. Follow the instructions and tape the two halfs together with glue on the joint and over the plans to make sure you have proper alignment. Then sheet away. Also, all 65" YAK kits come with custom 90 size Tetherite gear. This gear is just the ticket for this size plane - thanks again Ray.
Mike
#64
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (46)
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,017
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Marionville, MO
Ok ive been meaning to get photos of my yak for awile but my crutches have made it difficult but here is a picture inside the clutters work room. Ill take a better picture outside later. Ended up weighing 6 pounds 15 oz when i installed the bigger battery pack and YS110. Cant wait to maiden



#67
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,776
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: MEMPHIS, TN
Looks good steve, you should be happy with the YS. I saw Chris Hinson fly his 9lb EXTREME FLIGHT full figured YAK this weekend at the Perry Ga. swap meet and it had plenty of power to spare, very impressive
#68
Member
My Feedback: (5)
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: bay shore, NY,
Hi guys,here my modified yak.Webra 1.2 @7.75 lbs rtf with 13oz. of fuel. and w/p.Its not a high wind operator,the wing loading is very very low.K.e. with no forward movement.
#69
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (46)
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,017
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Marionville, MO
OK i was setting up my rates on my radio and i noticed right away an oscillation on one of my brand new aileron servos which is a JR 8101 nylon gear hi speed servo. I have had oscillations large control surfaces before that were not a problem so i didn't think much about it but after a bit i heard the servo gears strip. I think I'm gonna have to go with some metal gear servos on the ailerons they are huge. I'm going to run to the local hobby shop and pick up a couple 8411's if he has them, I kinda doubt he will tho. For those of you wanting to use small servos i would say don't do it. This is a large bird with huge control surfaces. Whats everyone using for servos?
#72

My Feedback: (5)
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: janesville, WI
OMP yak profile with magnum 91 2-stroke hitec 605 servos running at 6-volts the plane flys great had it out for the first time yesterday it was a little windy and the plane was like a kite but still very controllable the thing i cant believe is how slow this thing will fly with a 10 knot wind you hover land!
#74
Senior Member
My Feedback: (12)
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Pampa, TX
Steve's Yak was one plane that really stood out at the Houston ProBro (among LOTS of killer planes). I can't imagine a better combo than it and the YS 110. Killer.
#75
falcon6171, what prop are you using with your magnum xls 91? I am going to use the same engine on my omp yak too and I have a couple of APC 16x4w lying around. Are hitec 605's enough torque and enough speed for extreme 3d?
thanks
thanks



