OMP YAK SERVOS
#26
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From: Evansville, IN
My yak kit is due in ths week. I'll be jumping right on it. Thinking of the blue/yellow/red scheme to match the extremeflight yak (that should come in someday). Anyone else using something other than pro bond or gorilla glue for the foam, just curious
#27
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From: Hudson, FL
Leave the sheeting over the channel. You will fish the servo wires through the channel later.
I glued my stab halves together on a flat board with the wire installed. After I built the fuselage I cut the slot for the stab all the way to the rear of the fuse. After I slid the stab in, I glued the end piece of the fuse back in.
I glued my stab halves together on a flat board with the wire installed. After I built the fuselage I cut the slot for the stab all the way to the rear of the fuse. After I slid the stab in, I glued the end piece of the fuse back in.
#29
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From: Crest Hill,
IL
I too, almost have mine all covered. I have the stab and elevator to finish. I am going to try and power mine with a ST-90. I have it laying around. Hopefully it will have enough power. If not I will swap it out. My fuse is Flouresecnt Orange and the wings are Blue w/ black and white checkers on the top.
[link=http://www.911teletrainer.com/craig]Craig's Page[/link]
[link=http://www.911teletrainer.com/craig]Craig's Page[/link]
#33
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From: Menasha, WI
Super Tiger Mufflers suck, and are made of what looks like aluminum, but weighs like lead. A Jett Muffler and a 16x4W from APC is what your bird needs.
#36
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From: Marionville, MO
The instructions say to cut out the foam and sheeting in FRONT of the rear stabilizer. Thats just crazy I cut out behind the stabd and just glued that tiny piece back in. Its gonna be strong anyhow when i glue the fin on back of the fuse. You can slide the elevator in then slide the stab in but you gots no room to install hinges.
Throw: I dont know who thought of the idea of glueing tri stock on the the back and front of the control surfaces but its brilliant, easy to install and allows for 90 degrees throw! I installed robart 1/8" hinges in all surfaces, just got a bit of fuse trim to install tonite and it will all be covered. Getting close now!
I think your saito 100 with small digi's will be a great setup
Throw: I dont know who thought of the idea of glueing tri stock on the the back and front of the control surfaces but its brilliant, easy to install and allows for 90 degrees throw! I installed robart 1/8" hinges in all surfaces, just got a bit of fuse trim to install tonite and it will all be covered. Getting close now!
I think your saito 100 with small digi's will be a great setup
#38

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From: Crestview, FL
When these planes were first introduced, there were a couple of people promising to do build threads. Did I miss them, or has there not been any? I think the innovative fuse construction would be of interest to a lot of people. It sure would be to me. Guess I'll have to do it when I get one.....
#43
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From: conway, NC
All I have done right now are the tail feathers and the ailerons. I plan on building the wings as soon as I get my buddies Extra 260 covered which shouldnt take long at all..........................................John
#46
I thought about doing a build thread on my YAK, but the CD that comes with it the pictures are good. I was thinking the people that built the plane would have the CD, and wouldn't need a step by step build thread.
I wasn't thinking about everybody else that might be wanting to build one, that didn't have the CD. Gator, if you want me to, I can burn you a copy of my CD, and give it to you.
I wasn't thinking about everybody else that might be wanting to build one, that didn't have the CD. Gator, if you want me to, I can burn you a copy of my CD, and give it to you.
#48
M.gramling, although I have the CD and is informative, I am still having problems understanding some of the pictures and information given on the CD, I was just hoping that I might possibly get more info of how others are building.
Blackie
Blackie
#49
My main problem with building this plane. Is the CD. I am on a MAC and this CD is not completely compatible with a MAC.
On a PC, its instruction manual is like a web page. you see the instruction, then a thumbnail. click on thumbnail and its enlarged.
On my MAC you see the instructions, but the pictures won't load. So you have to go for the photos in the appropriate subfiles. Its kind of a hassle but not to bad.
I am looking forward to get back to working w/ CA. This gorrila glue I am using is a great glue, but it takes approx 4hrs. to dry. on my Table, I can only work on one thing at a time. there are somethings you just can't do work on until you get to the next step.
IMHO you can't start your wings until you get your fuselage done. You need the root wing rib to make sure fuselage doubler is in place. But if I had room, I could atleast built my stabsby now. While I was waiting on the my glue to dry.
Hopefully tonight, I will get my fuselage done. Then I still start working on stabs, then my wings.
On a PC, its instruction manual is like a web page. you see the instruction, then a thumbnail. click on thumbnail and its enlarged.
On my MAC you see the instructions, but the pictures won't load. So you have to go for the photos in the appropriate subfiles. Its kind of a hassle but not to bad.
I am looking forward to get back to working w/ CA. This gorrila glue I am using is a great glue, but it takes approx 4hrs. to dry. on my Table, I can only work on one thing at a time. there are somethings you just can't do work on until you get to the next step.
IMHO you can't start your wings until you get your fuselage done. You need the root wing rib to make sure fuselage doubler is in place. But if I had room, I could atleast built my stabsby now. While I was waiting on the my glue to dry.
Hopefully tonight, I will get my fuselage done. Then I still start working on stabs, then my wings.
#50

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From: Beavercreek, OH,
Constrictor,
You must have a kit from the very first run. The run had the elevators glued together with a stick of hardwood and you had to remove the piece of fuselage BEHIND the stab in order to install and hinge the elevators to the stab. Dumb design concept I'll admit but I was convinced by another individual who thought he knew everything that this was the proper way. Pain in the rear and not elegant at all. All the current kits come with an 1/8" wire elevator torque rod that connects the elevators together. Install the rod into the fuse slot, install the stab and glue in place, and then install the elevators into the rod and hinges individually. Much easier, cleaner looking, and certainly stronger than a connecting piece of hardwood. That was my original design and that's now the current way all kits are produced.
Mike Pilkenton
You must have a kit from the very first run. The run had the elevators glued together with a stick of hardwood and you had to remove the piece of fuselage BEHIND the stab in order to install and hinge the elevators to the stab. Dumb design concept I'll admit but I was convinced by another individual who thought he knew everything that this was the proper way. Pain in the rear and not elegant at all. All the current kits come with an 1/8" wire elevator torque rod that connects the elevators together. Install the rod into the fuse slot, install the stab and glue in place, and then install the elevators into the rod and hinges individually. Much easier, cleaner looking, and certainly stronger than a connecting piece of hardwood. That was my original design and that's now the current way all kits are produced.
Mike Pilkenton


