Sledge 540 progress.
#152
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From:
Originally posted by ChuckAuger
Then get thee an 80 grit sanding block and some elbow grease! And a fearless pursuit of rounded LE's!!
Then get thee an 80 grit sanding block and some elbow grease! And a fearless pursuit of rounded LE's!!

You know I don't like to sand...
18/19ths?

Sometimes I wonder about you Chuck...
#154
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From: Pampa, TX
Now you guys...You know how hard it was to FIND those */19th drill bits?? And you think I'm gonna loan them out?? Yeah, right!
Now about that workbench..see, it's like this. I was cleaning the other bench off, so I piled everything on this one. Now that the other one is clean, I can pile all the stuff back on it! Sheesh!
Now about that workbench..see, it's like this. I was cleaning the other bench off, so I piled everything on this one. Now that the other one is clean, I can pile all the stuff back on it! Sheesh!
#156

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From: Hawthorne, CA
Hey Mordbid,
Did you ever fly this thing or did the thread subscription loose you in the "changeover"?
Wgeffon,
I 'd guess you took the wing off his building board for the sake off the pictures. I'd recommend anyone building one to leave it on till all the sheeting is on the first side. Otherwise you could end up with twisting locked in by the sheeting.
Did you ever fly this thing or did the thread subscription loose you in the "changeover"?
Wgeffon,
I 'd guess you took the wing off his building board for the sake off the pictures. I'd recommend anyone building one to leave it on till all the sheeting is on the first side. Otherwise you could end up with twisting locked in by the sheeting.
#157

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From: Hawthorne, CA
Does anyone have a picture of the pull-pull going from the servos to the fuse? I still don't get it, is there a 90 degree change of direction when they enter the fuse?
Also I ended up with a slight dihedral in the leading edge that I don't think should be there. I tried to remove most of it when I sheeted the bottom, is this normal?
Also I ended up with a slight dihedral in the leading edge that I don't think should be there. I tried to remove most of it when I sheeted the bottom, is this normal?
#158
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From: Pampa, TX
The LE should be straight.
There isn't a 90 degree turn, the cables should smoothly enter the fuse at a shallow angle. The rudder cables will enter at a greater angle than the elevator. This pic was mainly to show my linkages, you can extrapolate the angle from this pic, or I can get you a better pic tonite.
There isn't a 90 degree turn, the cables should smoothly enter the fuse at a shallow angle. The rudder cables will enter at a greater angle than the elevator. This pic was mainly to show my linkages, you can extrapolate the angle from this pic, or I can get you a better pic tonite.
#159
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From: MEMPHIS, TN
I was thingking the same thing, looks like my wing had dihedral in the top and bottom, I consulted JWilliams and he told me if you built it on the tabs, you couldnt go wrong......I have since covered 3 other Sledges, built by great builders and this is what they are suppose to look like.....G
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From: Hawthorne, CA
I see it now. The entrance is farther back in the fuse than I was thinking so it will be a smooth transition. I got a profile thinking it would be an easy build but this one has a few more details to it than I expected. Ultimatley none of the things I have been worrying about will make much differance in the end, especially after I torque it into the ground.
#163

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From: Hawthorne, CA
Well, I have everything built now its time to sand,sand,sand. I was thinking about putting an extra piece of balsa on the leading edge to help get a rounder shape. Anyone try this?
#164
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From: Bloomington, IL
Yeah. People have done that.
In my new Sledge kit they have replaced that piece with a piece of 1" tri-stock.
Much easier to get the rounded shape that way.
In my new Sledge kit they have replaced that piece with a piece of 1" tri-stock.
Much easier to get the rounded shape that way.
#169

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From: Bartlett,
TN
ORIGINAL: JWilliams
Yes Wayne that is true, now can I get an amen from the congregation. Jeff W.
Yes Wayne that is true, now can I get an amen from the congregation. Jeff W.
Actually... I did my last sledge leading edge with a piece of 3/8" x 1 with a 30 deg angle cut on my table saw on both sides... Makes the perfect leading edge....
Did the trailing edge the same way.... only 1/4" sq with 7 deg angle....
Awesome... No shaping at all....
#170

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From: Georgetown,
IN
Yes a Saito 72 or YS 63 are good engine choices. Let me sum it up, any engine that has great power to weight, reliablity and you can get, go for it. Yes engine does make a difference and so does the prop on your performance. Jeff W.
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From: WinnipegManitoba, CANADA
Well, my turn to build a Sledge. We've finally gotten settled in enough for me to try to get some building in. I've got 3 Ultrasport 1000 fuselages to build over the winter, but looking at that pile of lumber turns me off. Looking at the efficiency and quick build nature of the profile planes like the Sledge turns me on! Question for you guys - I'm planning on using a NIB Irvine .40 I have, with a header and mousse can. Hopefully it's got enough get up'n go. If not, I'll upgrade to a .46 or .50something. How far forward on the rails are most guys mounting the engine? I've allowed enough room to slide it all the way back... You'll see on the attached pic I'm mounting the rudder servo under the wing for easy pull pull. This is how far I got today...
#172
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From: MEMPHIS, TN
Daryl,
I usally finish the plane install the gear, and then rubber band the eng onto the front of the plane with muffler attached. flip the plane inverted and then slide the motor back or forward to get it close to balance.....G
I usally finish the plane install the gear, and then rubber band the eng onto the front of the plane with muffler attached. flip the plane inverted and then slide the motor back or forward to get it close to balance.....G




