Build an Ashley MM
#76
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Two pieces of balsa of 1/4" thick balsa were joined together.
A piece of heavy grade fiberglass cloth was place on the surface and finishing epoxy was added.
The top was added and parts were placed in the vacuum bag (tarp with latex caulking)
The pump was turned on and compresses the surfaces for a good fit.
A piece of heavy grade fiberglass cloth was place on the surface and finishing epoxy was added.
The top was added and parts were placed in the vacuum bag (tarp with latex caulking)
The pump was turned on and compresses the surfaces for a good fit.
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#79
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The balsa laminate was removed from the vacuum bag and was cut into widths about 2" wide.
The tips shape follows that of the real Miss Ashley.
A jig saw was used to cut out the tips.
The tips shape follows that of the real Miss Ashley.
A jig saw was used to cut out the tips.
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Fiberglass cloth on the outside of the wing provides most of the strength.
A small amount of finishing epoxy was applied in the area of the ailerons and peel ply was attached.
Numerous layers of 1.6 ounce glass cloth were applied at the center section.
The wing tips were given an extra layer of glass since they are easy to damage.
A final layer of 1.6 ounce cloth was laid over the entire wing surface.
A small amount of finishing epoxy was applied in the area of the ailerons and peel ply was attached.
Numerous layers of 1.6 ounce glass cloth were applied at the center section.
The wing tips were given an extra layer of glass since they are easy to damage.
A final layer of 1.6 ounce cloth was laid over the entire wing surface.
#84
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Approximately 1.5 ounce of finishing epoxy was mixed and applied for each wing half. A squeegee was used to spread out the epoxy.
The wing was placed between layers of peel ply and then placed in the vacuum bag (tarp sealed with latex caulking). Most of the air was removed from the bag with the vacuum pump.
The bag was then placed between the shucks and a couple quarts of paint were used to hold parts in place.
The wing was placed between layers of peel ply and then placed in the vacuum bag (tarp sealed with latex caulking). Most of the air was removed from the bag with the vacuum pump.
The bag was then placed between the shucks and a couple quarts of paint were used to hold parts in place.
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The wing was removed from the peel ply.
Edges were trimmed with a sanding block and the surface was also lightly sanded.
The wing will weigh about 16 ounces after the aileron rods are installed.
Edges were trimmed with a sanding block and the surface was also lightly sanded.
The wing will weigh about 16 ounces after the aileron rods are installed.
#88
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My models are equipped with skin type hinges.
Holes are drilled for the aileron torque rods to stick out the other side.
The pictures shows the cutting of the ailerons.
One of my prototypes will have 1 1/4" wide ailerons and the other will have 1 3/8" wide ailerons.
The slot is 14" and the outward side will be left uncut.
Holes are drilled for the aileron torque rods to stick out the other side.
The pictures shows the cutting of the ailerons.
One of my prototypes will have 1 1/4" wide ailerons and the other will have 1 3/8" wide ailerons.
The slot is 14" and the outward side will be left uncut.
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Heavy duty aileron torque rods are being used on the models.
The torque rods are long enough to go about 3" into the aileron stock.
They were bent and trimmed (with a Dremel) to shape.
The torque rods are long enough to go about 3" into the aileron stock.
They were bent and trimmed (with a Dremel) to shape.
#90
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I taped off areas to keep epoxy from sticking to the surface of the ailerons.
Some scraps of balsa are used to make jigs to hold in the glue.
A mix of finishing epoxy and micro balloons was applied and holds the torque rods in place.
Some scraps of balsa are used to make jigs to hold in the glue.
A mix of finishing epoxy and micro balloons was applied and holds the torque rods in place.
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Sometimes despite your best efforts the plan falls apart.
I was planning to pot the wing to zero-zero between the engine wing. Setting up identified that the engine (on both models) was way off.
I could fill an extremely large void with micro balloons and epoxy or fix it. I chose to fix it by reinstalling the firewall and mount.
Below are pictures of the progress.
I was planning to pot the wing to zero-zero between the engine wing. Setting up identified that the engine (on both models) was way off.
I could fill an extremely large void with micro balloons and epoxy or fix it. I chose to fix it by reinstalling the firewall and mount.
Below are pictures of the progress.
#96
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The fiberglass fuselage had some built in down thrust. The stock long version had about 1 degree of down thrust.
The version I shortened had more.
The following steps should be followed to insure that the thrust line is reasonably close.
The model must be assembled and the level (or incidences) of engine and wing must be checked.
I had to adjust the engine by grinding part of the top surfaces of the engine thrust ring.
The wing was setup level and the engine thrust line was checked.
The version I shortened had more.
The following steps should be followed to insure that the thrust line is reasonably close.
The model must be assembled and the level (or incidences) of engine and wing must be checked.
I had to adjust the engine by grinding part of the top surfaces of the engine thrust ring.
The wing was setup level and the engine thrust line was checked.
Last edited by sahartman21; 02-19-2016 at 12:28 PM.
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The engine mount and firewall were temporarily tack glued in place.
A long drill bit was used to identify and drill the holes for the blind nuts.
The mount and firewall were removed from the model for further work.
A long drill bit was used to identify and drill the holes for the blind nuts.
The mount and firewall were removed from the model for further work.
Last edited by sahartman21; 02-20-2016 at 08:20 PM.
#99
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The holes were drilled larger for the installation of blind nuts.
An engine kill was made out of a piece of 1/4" ID aluminum tubing.
The tubing was filled with Vaseline to help keep glue from plugging the hole.
The blind nuts were glued in place.
An engine kill was made out of a piece of 1/4" ID aluminum tubing.
The tubing was filled with Vaseline to help keep glue from plugging the hole.
The blind nuts were glued in place.
#100
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About 3/4 ounce of finishing epoxy was mixed.
A small amount was applied to the front of the firewall.
The mount, engine, spacer, and spinner were installed. The spinner was taped onto the nose.
Cotton flocks were added to the remaining finishing epoxy and were mixed. This was applied to the back of the firewall and particularly around the joint.
The alignment was double and triple checked and then the fuselage was set out of the way to dry.
A small amount was applied to the front of the firewall.
The mount, engine, spacer, and spinner were installed. The spinner was taped onto the nose.
Cotton flocks were added to the remaining finishing epoxy and were mixed. This was applied to the back of the firewall and particularly around the joint.
The alignment was double and triple checked and then the fuselage was set out of the way to dry.