I used KlassKote white epoxy primer on the model.

Part A and B primer were mixed and allowed to set about 30 minutes.

Epoxy reducer was added until the mix was 1 part A, 1 part B, and 1 part reducer.

An inexpensive spray gun from Harbor Freight was used to apply the paint. Use a respirator when spraying epoxy type paints. The spray gun was about $15 and the respirator was about $25.

They say what you do on New Years Day is what you are likely to do the rest of the year.

I guess there will be a lot of painting in 2010.

The primer was wet sanded with 400 grit wet and dry paper.

There were some areas that I wasn't satisfied with so a second coat of primer was applied.

oh, no... mostly I put away Christmas decorations and helped clean the house after all the kids have gone back home.. I knew I should have gone flying!

The primer was wet sanded as needed until it was smooth. It was then allowed to dry before going to the next step.

I mixed some Acrylic Enamel car paint per the directions and sprayed it on the model.

The Acrylic Enamel has hardener and is fuel proof.

The yellow didn't quite cover so it will be wet sanded and a second coat will be applied.

The outside temperature was a little warmer today and this painting session went much better.

Next will be more wet sanding and then masking off for trim.

The model was masked for trim and it was painted today. The paint type was Acrylic Enamel car paint.

Next will be more wet sanding and then painting the canopy.

My models will have numbers and a painted canopy.

The stencils were made at the vinyl shop. They are available for reasonable prices.

The rest of the model will be masked off with paper prior to painting.

Scott, as i recall one of you proud bireds has skinned hinges useing cloth as the main hinge. How did that work as opposed to the fiberglass hinge??

I used taffeta for the hinge on 2 of the wings. I used 2 ounce fiberglass cloth on the other.

The fiberglass cloth went on smoother. The taffeta appears less likely to break due to flexing.

I haven't used the Dave Norman method using sheet fiberglass.

In a few days the models should be ready to test fly, weather permitting. I am interested if there is a flying advantage.

I sprayed on the black trim tonight.

An air brush from Harbor Freight was tried out. This one has 5 small bottles that are easily removed for applying another color.

I just mix a small amount of trim color and sprayed on with the air brush. The bottles don't look like they will last very long with thinner so I just throw them away after I'm done.

Some final wet sanding was done and the finish was touched up as needed.

High quality black pin stripe was applied to accent the red and yellow colors,

Here are a couple pictures before the clear coat is applied. Yea, I know its the same paint job as before. [8D]

looks like they're coming out nicely!

Was the Pin Stripe tape or done with stripping paint? Very nice....

The clear coat went on tonight.

I used the fast hardener to increase the drying speed and reduce the potential for picking up dust.

The pin stripes are a high quality vinyl pin stripe available from most auto parts stores.

Next will be wet sanding with 2000 grit sandpaper and then buffing out. My paint shop is my garage and it takes wet sanding and buffing to get a good finish!

The model without numbers will probably be the official loaner.

They're all 3 looking good, Scott. After the final sand/polish and picture session, it's time for flight reports!

Sorry to be a pain, just very intrigued by your technique. Am I correct in saying you laid down the pinstripes, then clear, than sand with 2000 and lastly polished? I'd be afraid I would sand though the clear into the tape in a millisecond; but, I've only used Klass Kote clear. The health aspects of automotive clear scare me.

Concerning health effects:

I use a respirator when painting with KlassKote and when using automotive paints. Both are known for health effects so use a respirator. I got mine at Harbor Freight for about $25.

Wet sanding with 2000 grit sand paper doesn't take off much paint. I use it primarily to knock off the dust.

After the wet sanding I will use some white compound and a small buffer. This step gives the depth that you see in a car finish.

I've used Hobbypoxy and SuperPoxy in the past. The automotive type paints go on about the same.

You have to be careful using the 2000 grit.. if you get dirt stuck in the backing, the backside can actually be more abrasive than the front! 2000 grit is pretty darned fine sandpaper.

Here are a few photos showing wet sanding and buffing.

Some 2000 grit wet and dry sandpaper was used. This is primarily to remove the dust on the surface.

After the model is wet sanded then buff it out with some white polishing compound and 6" electric buffer.

This leaves the finish a uniform satin. I usually stop here as the satin finish hides minor imperfections.

If you want the highly polished look then continue the polishing with a liquid car polish.

Where can I buy a buffer like yours? That is nice and compact. Thank you for taking the time to post pictures and answer my questions. I really like your simple approach to garage airplane painting.

I always wear a respirator, my health commit was in reference to polyurethane clearcoats. My chemist wife assures me Klass Kote is relatively safer to use than polyurethane anything. She's the chemist not me, I just use whatever she allows in the house...

I've seen 6" Buffers at Walmart. I got mine from Harbor Freight. They are around $20.

For the most part I spray most of my models outside and them bring them into the garage to dry.

I hope the pictures help you get what you need.

sahartman21, Got exactly what I needed. Maybe instead of "garage airplane painting" I should of said "Shade Tree airplane Painting". Thanks again.

I put a 1450 ma lipo in my transmitter.

The rated current draw is 170 maH so the pack should last around 8 hours per charge.

The aileron servo was mounted using the provided hardware.

At low rate the throw is about 1/8" to 3/16" each way.

At high rates the throw is about 5/16" each way.

Scott, did you use a regulator for the trans battery???