Here are some links to the carbon:

48" x 0.007" thick carbon laminate - http://www.cstsales.com/carbon_laminates_48.html

0.021" x 1/2" x 36" piece of carbon fiber laminate - http://www.cstsales.com/carbon_Laminates_36.html

The photos show approximately the layout of the formers and landing gear blocks

I used 3M77 spray contact adhesive to glue on the doublers.

Both surfaces were sprayed. Wait about a minute and join the surfaces.

These stick immediately so insure you place them in the proper areas.

There were a few areas where parts did not quite fit. Take a couple minutes to fit parts, using a knife and sanding block, before going to the next step.

My model will have internal pushrods.

A 3/8" thick piece of balsa wood was glued in place at the tail to provide room for the pushrods.

The formers were test fit on the fuselage.

After parts were confirmed to fit, they were glued in place using Gorilla Glue. When using that type of glue the surfaces are lightly dampened prior to gluing.

Rubber bands and "C" Clamps holds parts in place until the glue dries.

A piece of light ply was fitted and then glued to the bottom of the tail surface.

Tape the motor mount on the firewall and install blind nuts.

Dubro blind nuts are recommended as they are smaller and are easier to install.

The former at the leading edge of the wing must be modified to fit the tank.

The pictures show a 6 ounce Jett slim tank.

A hole for the throttle tube was drilled and the tube was temporarily installed.

I just use an antenna tube and will later slide a piece of thin music wire in it.

Looking good. I am right behind you in progress. What engine are you installing? This will be my first Quickie so i will be running an OS .25FX for the local .25 class. My first thought was to get a mount where I could install a .40 or .25 without re-drilling the firewall. I am now thinking I will just go with a .25 on this plane and build a new plane if I want to move up to the .40 class.I received the motor but still need to decide on mount. Don Stegall isn't marketing his anymore. Anyone else sell a .25 mount like you are using? I suppose I can use a std engine mount from the LHS as well though.

Scott,

I believe this mount has the same mounting pattern as the popular quickee mounts and may fit your .25. Hole pattern dimensions are in the link. If it fits, you could switch back and forth easily

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEVS5&P=7

That mount won't work on a OS 25 FX due to rear needle valve clearance. Some guys have ground them down to fit. Others use this OS METAL mount:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCB61&P=7

Or this Hayes plastic mount:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK805&P=7

If they can't get the custom mount that was made by Mike Langlois and sold by Don Stegall.

Thanks Gary....not familiar with the .25 and did not know it has a remote needle

Craig

There is a mount for the 25FX made by Mike Langlois. Try contacting him here. He may still make them. They fit the quickie fuse perfectly.

ml 'at' aeroprecisionmachine 'dot' com

Trey Witte

Yes, those are the mounts that Don Stegall was selling. I have two of them and work very well. I can easily switch out from my Q-25 engine to my 424 engine. I am going to try to purchase the remaining stock so that I can make them available to interested Q-25 guys.

The Magnum 25 XLS will work with the standard Viper backplate mount because that engine does not have a rear needle valve. However, the OS 25FX will not without hacking a big chunk out of the mount to clear the needle valve. Another option is to cut off the needle valve mounting bracket from the backplate of the FX and use a remote needle valve mounted somewhere else that does not interfere. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCR44&P=ML

I'm going to install either the Jett 426 engine or a Thunder Tiger Pro 40.

FYI - I am probably going to fiberglass and paint my model. Since you are going for the 25 size, you should probably go with an MonoKote or Ultracoat.

The balsa on my kit was heavier than I would have picked out and therefore my model is expected to be a little heavier than my normal one.

Scott Hartman

that hayes mount listed above works fine and accoplishes two things.

1. Its a long mount so you can move the light .25 sized motor out on the beams to help balance the plane.
2. The bolt pattern for that mount matches the commercially avaialble back plate moutns for 426 and 424

The landing gear was installed.

Begin by drilling holes for the 6 x 32 bolts and blind nuts.

Triangle stock was glued in place in the nose.

The balsa sheeting was cut to shape and glued in place. Masking tape is used to hold parts in place until the glue dries.

Sand the surfaces flush with a sanding block and 60 to 80 grit sandpaper.

Lightly round the edges with the sanding block with 100 grit sandpaper.

Use a slotting tool to slot the 1/4" thick balsa tail surface.

Shove the 1/64" thick pieces of plywood in the slot until flush.

Glue the parts in place with thin CA.

Shape the tail surface with balsa plane and sanding block.

From a side view the surfaces should resemble an airfoil.

Spray a small amount of 3M77 on the top tail surface and tack a piece of window sheer to the wood. The sheer should be large enough to cover the entire top surface.

Apply 3/4 ounce fiberglass cloth over the window sheer the same way.

Apply another piece of 3/4 ounce fiberglass cloth on the other side.

Mix about 1/2 ounce of finishing epoxy and squeegee it onto the top and bottom surfaces. Make sure the entire surface is sealed.

Place the tail surface between layers of peel ply (polyester or nylon fabric).

Place the tail in the vacuum bag and apply the vacuum (about 6"). The bag is made from 4 mil thick plastic and is sealed with latex caulking.

Allow the surface to dry.