This is myfirst time trying to use some point hinges. I am/was thinking about using them on my Sig SE (kit) and after dry fitting them to the elevator, I find a HUGE gap at the hinge line.

Is this normal and I should just seal the hinge line or am I doing something way wrong here?



Thanks,

sand your hinge line so the surfaces close up around the pin. where the hinges go not the whole hinge line.
hope this helps

No, that's not normal. The Robart hinge point is much thicker at the hinge than it is at the hinge gluing stub that goes into the structure. What I do with mine is use a phillips screwdriver to "open up" the hinge mounting hole to permit the hinge point to fully seat into the structure. Do this on both surfaces. This will allow a tight fit with minimal gap.

I do something similar.... I drill the hole for the hinge to the correct size... and then grab the next larger or second larger drill bit and "counter-sink" the hole....
making the hole bigger close to the hinge so the hinge can seat in a bit deeper....


make sense?

I used a tapered dremel grinding bit and countersink the hole, good luck!

Yep, same here the cone shaped sanding drum.

Everyone has their own method, but you should have gotten the gist of it by now.

Bottom line - the hole needs to be a little bigger near the hinge line for the hinges to recess into the wood.

Does anyone use K&B engine before? or know anything about it?
I bought this 61 size engine from ebay for 2 reasons, the price is so good and other reason is that it is made in USA.
However, I don know too much about it and wonderinfg if it is reliable to be installed to my new Cap 580.

If I compare engine with car regardins their popularitiy and reliabilty

OS vs Toyota
Supra tiger vs Volks Weagan
Webra vs BMW
and Saito vs Land Rover
then
What can you say about K&B

kyeddy ( Eddy)[8|

They alway's say that a picture is worth more than a thousand words... so here you go.

Countryboy has it right. I have some similar pictures on page 2 of my build thread: [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2338990/mpage_2/tm.htm]Kavalier Build[/link]

Check out Caffenman's how to on his website: [link=http://airfieldmodels.com/information_source/how_to_articles_for_model_builders/construction/hinge_points/index.htm]Airfield Models[/link]

With a little more work you should be fine.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I ended up doing something like Chris_in_montreal and cut small notches in the elevator (as far as I have gotten so far) and it seemed to work pretty well. I did have a bit of a problem with the poly glue gumming up the hinge as it expanded, even after putting some light (Mystery) oil on the hinges. I ended up having to use a toothpick soaked in acetone to clean the excess glue out and reoiling, but the hinges seem pretty free-moving this morning. I think on the next set of hinges I put in I'm going to try vaseline on the hinges instead of the oil to see if that will keep them free-moving better than the oil.

Again, I appreciate all the help and suggestions. You guys rock!

K&B = Tonka

Just kidding - Sorry I couldn't resist.

K&B makes a fine engine, I had a K&B 60 two stroke many years ago that I also got a cheap second-hand deal on and it was a VERY good runner.

Regarding the gluing: apply the glue only to the wood and not to the hinge point. Anything you put on the hingepoint will produce some amount of spreading of glue to the actual hinge, which you do not want to happen. Expanding glue may still ooze some at the hinge, but you want to minimize that as much as possible.

First off, I never glue the hinge in both surfaces at the same time... and never having used the poly glue, I can't speak for it's use. What work's for me is to first coat the hinge pin with melted paraffin wax which I then set aside until the wax turns solid again. Once the wax solidifies, it creates a semi-hard shell around the hinge pin which acts as a penetration barrier.

I then set whatever surface I plan on installing the hinges in first " Usually the fixed surface" up on edge, so that the hinge holes are vertical. Now, I mix a batch of Devcon brand 30 minute epoxy in a small one ounce mixing cup, which I warm with a heat gun until it turns a watery consistency. I now fill the hinge holes with the epoxy while using a round toothpick to spread the epoxy in the hole, and to help purge air pockets. Once the holes are filled, I insert the hinge points slowly until the epoxy starts to spill from the holes, which I immediately clean away with q-tips soaked in denatured alcohol... push the hinge in a little more and repeat the q-tips soaked in denatured alcohol. I do this until the hinges are seated fully, then I install the hinged surface onto the hinges making sure that all the hinge points are parallel & true. I flex the surface back and forth several times to make sure I have free movement, then tape it tight until the epoxy sets. Once the epoxy sets, remove the control surface and repeat the gluing & cleaning process for the hinged surface.

Once the epoxy has cured on both sides of the hinge point, remove the tape and work the control surface. It way be a little stiff at first because of the hardened wax in the hinge pin. Now clean any left over hardened epoxy & wax from the pin... and you have it. Also, make sure to clean the hinge points before installing, as you don't want any body oil on them that may have been picked up from you handling them.

Any comments on the Pacer hinge glue?
I have a bottle and plan to use it to hinge my Robart point hinges.
I also like to suggest the Robart hinge tool to drill straight holes, it works great.

(No more CA hinges for me, I totally like the Robart point hinge)