Tissue Covering
#1
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From: Slidell,
LA
I have a few older kits all have supplyed tissue for covering. I have used 2 different looking ones (tissue) . I had great success with one and tried another 3 times with really poor results. Does the tissues lose any of its covering properties with age?? What is the secret to flawless covering with tissue? I dont seem to have much luck with applying dope with a brush to tissue it looks terrible. RITTMEISTER
#4
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My Feedback: (1)
This is the way I was taught to apply tissue/silkspan (more years ago than I care to think about )
1. Apply a coat of NITRATE dope to the framework and let dry.
2. Cut you tissue/silkspan oversize and get it THOROUGHLY wet.
3. "Wring out" the excess water, then open the piece up.
4. Lay the wet tissue/silksapn on the area to be covered and CAREFULLY smooth it out and remove as many creases as possible.
5. Brush a coat of NITRATE dope on the edges (or use your fingers to apply the dope) to seal it down.
6. Trim the piece with a razor blade or #11 blade (I find a single edge razor blade is easiest for me to use in this step.)
7. If the tissue/silkspan is still damp/wet brush on a coat of NITRATE dope. If the tissue/silkspan has dried, LIGHTLY spray it with water to dampen it up, then brush a coat of NITRATE dope on it.
8. Let dry.
You need to use NITRATE dope because the nitrate dope will shrink the tissue/silkspan down drum tight. On light weight/fragile pieces I suggest pinning the pieces down until the Nitrate dope has dried to prevent warping.
Hope this answers your question.
1. Apply a coat of NITRATE dope to the framework and let dry.
2. Cut you tissue/silkspan oversize and get it THOROUGHLY wet.
3. "Wring out" the excess water, then open the piece up.
4. Lay the wet tissue/silksapn on the area to be covered and CAREFULLY smooth it out and remove as many creases as possible.
5. Brush a coat of NITRATE dope on the edges (or use your fingers to apply the dope) to seal it down.
6. Trim the piece with a razor blade or #11 blade (I find a single edge razor blade is easiest for me to use in this step.)
7. If the tissue/silkspan is still damp/wet brush on a coat of NITRATE dope. If the tissue/silkspan has dried, LIGHTLY spray it with water to dampen it up, then brush a coat of NITRATE dope on it.
8. Let dry.
You need to use NITRATE dope because the nitrate dope will shrink the tissue/silkspan down drum tight. On light weight/fragile pieces I suggest pinning the pieces down until the Nitrate dope has dried to prevent warping.
Hope this answers your question.
#5
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From: Slidell,
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CAMPY,
Great!! Thanks a Bunch! My son and I will do as you described. The tissue I have wont open back up after it gets wet. pulls all apart. The silkspan no problem. Thanks again for taking the time to write all that out for us.
RITT
Great!! Thanks a Bunch! My son and I will do as you described. The tissue I have wont open back up after it gets wet. pulls all apart. The silkspan no problem. Thanks again for taking the time to write all that out for us.

RITT
#6
Ritt,
In recent years. I have returned to covering all my aircraft in silkspan or tissue. Campy's suggestions are right on. But here's what I suggest: for tissue, don't try wetting it until after its on the frame -- it's too hard to handle.
You will get better results with dope if it is sprayed (thinned up to 50%), not brushed.
Good luck!
In recent years. I have returned to covering all my aircraft in silkspan or tissue. Campy's suggestions are right on. But here's what I suggest: for tissue, don't try wetting it until after its on the frame -- it's too hard to handle.
You will get better results with dope if it is sprayed (thinned up to 50%), not brushed.
Good luck!
#7
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From: Cortland,
NY
prolly a no-brainer.....but different kits also have different QUALITY of tissue. Good Japanese tissue behaves MUCH better than domestic/gift wrap tissue.
also, if you're working indoors: use the purple gluesticks to replace the dope for attachment. can be re-activated with alcohol on a small brush, if it dries too much before you get the tissue on.
my twolincolns
[8D]
also, if you're working indoors: use the purple gluesticks to replace the dope for attachment. can be re-activated with alcohol on a small brush, if it dries too much before you get the tissue on.
my twolincolns
[8D]
#8
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From: Slidell,
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Thanks for the info!
I applied elmers glue on all the edges and put the tissue on Then I moistened the tissue with my fingertips and formed all the edges. Then lightly sprayed water on them. To keep from warping I secured to my building board. After all shrinking I sprayed Krylon Clear coat .A couple of coats. Is this going to work???? My son picked up one plane from the flying field after maiden flight so excited his fingers went right through the fuselage covering.[&o]. will nitrate dope make the tissue stronger than applying Krylon spray??
RITT
I applied elmers glue on all the edges and put the tissue on Then I moistened the tissue with my fingertips and formed all the edges. Then lightly sprayed water on them. To keep from warping I secured to my building board. After all shrinking I sprayed Krylon Clear coat .A couple of coats. Is this going to work???? My son picked up one plane from the flying field after maiden flight so excited his fingers went right through the fuselage covering.[&o]. will nitrate dope make the tissue stronger than applying Krylon spray??
RITT



