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Old 06-26-2007 | 09:24 PM
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Default CA on Vertical joints

Do you have to use kicker, or do you bother to use CA on vertical joints? I am tired of the stuff puddling up under the joint where the plastic covers the plans. It sticks well to the plastic, and takes forever to sand off. I like using the medium and thick for some places, but it is very easy for it to get away from you.
Old 06-27-2007 | 12:38 AM
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Default RE: CA on Vertical joints

For vertical joints, I put a drop at the top and let it run down the joint. This way there isn't as much excess at the bottom, if any. One of those thin extender tips helps to keep the amount applied under control. Also, I use wax paper over the plans - the CA doesn't seem to stick to it as much as it does to plastic. Hope this helps.
Old 06-27-2007 | 03:41 AM
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Default RE: CA on Vertical joints

Use a Capillary Tube on the CA bottle and apply a small amount to the top of the joint to tack it.

Turn the work piece horizontal and run in some more.

I always use a capilliary tube on thin CA otherwise you can not control the flow.

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/gpm/gpmgpmr6033.htm 1$ for 5
Old 06-27-2007 | 05:22 AM
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Default RE: CA on Vertical joints

This occurs while I am working over plans mainly. I also think the culprit could be that I am working with Ply, and not just balsa. Where I am in trouble is where I put a small blob at the top, to let it run down the joint, but it always ends up being too much.

Is there a specific brand of wax paper that works? I am using Cut Right, and CA sticks very well to it. It claims to be wax paper.
Old 06-27-2007 | 06:11 AM
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Default RE: CA on Vertical joints

There are also bulb applicators. I use them all the time. The good LHS in the area sells them for 50cents each and they last for years.

You stick them down into the open bottle of CA and squeeze the bulb and let go. It sucks up a little CA and holds it in until you squeeze again. Then, depending on how you squeeze, it applies just exactly how much and how fast you want.

Another trick is to apply from the bottom up. Just applying the tip of this thing will draw about the right amount of CA right out into the joint. You do have to apply the right amount of pressure as you then draw the tip up the joint. It works like magic. I also don't expect to apply the perfect amount while the parts are pinned to the plans. I always go over the wing or whatever once it's unpinned.

Every crossover joint (rib to spar for example) has 4 sides, right. So I only glue one side when the part is pinned. Then get one other side after getting the part off the plan. Sometimes do the other three sides depending on how well the CA has penetrated.

The bulb is almost magic once you perfect your technique. And it does medium great. Actually it does it Excellently.

It also glues those CA hinges great too. Using the CA bottle is like trying to fill a cup from a 55gallon barrel.
Old 06-27-2007 | 06:59 AM
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Default RE: CA on Vertical joints

I think I will try to use the glue on one joint technique, then add after it is unpinned. That makes the most sense for now, I don't think I have seen any bulbs at the HS, (there are no local hobby shops here, I have to go 90 miles r/t, so I stop when I think about it). jduncker and da rock may have answered this for me.

This is my first warbird build, and I kind of wanted it to turn out nice. I built a Venture 60 last year, and it turned out good, it is a Excellent flyer, I can't speak too highly of it.
Old 06-27-2007 | 07:22 AM
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Default RE: CA on Vertical joints

I use as little glue as possible while working over the plans, then once the construction is finished, remove it from the building board and go over all of the joints again.
Old 06-27-2007 | 07:56 AM
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Default RE: CA on Vertical joints

What is better than wax paper for covering the plans are:

1. The backing from Monokote.

OR

2. Buy a 9'x12' plastic drop cloth (typically around $.99 ) and cut a piece to cover the plans. The CA doesn't stick to the plastic and the plastic EASILY peels off whatever you are building. I try to use 2 mil or thicker drop cloths, that way they are readily reusable for the next set of plans.
Old 06-27-2007 | 04:13 PM
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Default RE: CA on Vertical joints

I am using the plastic drop cloth, the stuff I am using, Handibond, seems to stick doggedly to it. I am implementing the "use only enough glue to stick the pieces together until I can unpin them. I will probably have to spend all this evening getting the little chunks loose from last night....

Minn, when are the 85 deg. retracts going to be available? Thanks.
Old 06-29-2007 | 12:47 PM
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Default RE: CA on Vertical joints

I wonder if CA will stiffen my verticle joint? Woops wrong thread!

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