elevator epoxy question
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elevator epoxy question
Hey hipsters...
I am building a extra 300 arf.
I have to install the elevator through a slot that is built into the fuz. It is a snug fit (I like that). The question is, how do I apply epoxy to the elevator without it pushing out when I go to install it into the fuz (The elevator is allready covered). It is fitting through an oval opening, so it has to slide through. One of the things I though of was putting minimal ammounts of epoxy on the elevator to start with, once I get it in place, draw some epoxy through a straw and then "blow" as much of it as I can through what small gap there is.... any ideas?
Thanks.
I am building a extra 300 arf.
I have to install the elevator through a slot that is built into the fuz. It is a snug fit (I like that). The question is, how do I apply epoxy to the elevator without it pushing out when I go to install it into the fuz (The elevator is allready covered). It is fitting through an oval opening, so it has to slide through. One of the things I though of was putting minimal ammounts of epoxy on the elevator to start with, once I get it in place, draw some epoxy through a straw and then "blow" as much of it as I can through what small gap there is.... any ideas?
Thanks.
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RE: elevator epoxy question
Ok follow your instructions. get your alinement right mark the stap cut the covering so wood will glue to wood have alcohol and paper towel ready wipe excess.
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RE: elevator epoxy question
thanks whatwind... I have done all of that... it is just a tight fit I know that I am going to loose alot of epoxy when I slide the stab into the fuz. I guess there really is no easy way of doing it without there being epoxy all over the place...
#9
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RE: elevator epoxy question
Take an empty CA bottle. THOROUGHLY CLEAN IT OUT WITH ACETONE. After it is clean, put your mixed epoxy in the bottle and attach a "Jet" CA tip. Now put the epoxy right at the seam.
I suggest diluting the epoxy ABOUT 5% by volume to allow passage through the small opening on the Jet tip AND to allow the epoxy to soak into the wood.. Be advised that the epoxy will take about 12 - 14 hours to set up and about 48 hours to dry because of the dilution.
I suggest diluting the epoxy ABOUT 5% by volume to allow passage through the small opening on the Jet tip AND to allow the epoxy to soak into the wood.. Be advised that the epoxy will take about 12 - 14 hours to set up and about 48 hours to dry because of the dilution.
#10
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RE: elevator epoxy question
While I am not an advocate of CA, this may be one of those times when it is the best solution, if you have a nice tight fit, place the stab into position and lock it in with thin CA. If there are any gaps, carefully fill with soda (that powdered white stuff used in the kitchen) making sure none is built up where you do not want it, and then hit it again with thin CA. Instant rock solid bond that will destroy the wood before the joint breaks. Any imperfections outside the area will be very difficult to sand out, thats why you make sure there is no build up of soda outside the area you want it to be before you add the thin CA.
#11
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RE: elevator epoxy question
I have been using nothing but CA since the ARF craze started - never had a problem. Here is what I do -
Fit the elevator, remove the required covering then put it back in. Line it up and then run some thin CA in the joint and follow it up with some medium. The thin will suck the medium right into the joint. I have been doing this on everything - even Giant scale. I defy anyone to break the joint.
Fit the elevator, remove the required covering then put it back in. Line it up and then run some thin CA in the joint and follow it up with some medium. The thin will suck the medium right into the joint. I have been doing this on everything - even Giant scale. I defy anyone to break the joint.
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RE: elevator epoxy question
or...Bolt on the wing like you're getting ready to fly. Get your trammel string ready, so you can obtain correct stab to wing positioning. If you have removed just enough of the covering material on the stab for gluing, as usually instructed, so that the end result "Looks Pretty"...remove about 1/4 to 1/2" more so it looks ugly! Carefully sand the fuselage stab slot until you can easily glide the stab in, and move it about slightly. ( Keywords here are Carefully and Slightly!) This allows for proper gluing and helps for alignment too. Slide the stab in place. Mix 2-ton/30 minute epoxy. Place a bead (frugally for weight concern, but completely)all around where the stab meets the fuselage sides. Slide the stab back and forth/side to side in the fuselage slot. This will place glue in the most critical fuselage/stabilizer contact area!
Square off with the trammel string, and level stab to wing by eye.
Add fillets if desired, and touch up for appearance!
Square off with the trammel string, and level stab to wing by eye.
Add fillets if desired, and touch up for appearance!