Official Mayhem Thread
#401

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From: Waukegan,
IL
I recently purchased a Sportwerks Mayhem Pro (ARR). I am happy with it, having upgraded from a Hyper7 PCR Pro. I do have one issue though; the car handles fine on most tracks but, it could benefit from a reduction of the caster angle. Even with the upper arms all of the way forward, there is still too much caster. Many people at my local tracks have commented on this. Some say to remove material from the upper arms in order to fit another caster clip behind the existing one. Personally, I would rather not go this route as it weakens the arms. Is this an issue that Sportwerks has plans to correct with a revised part or are we all doomed to have to whittle on our cars?
#402
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From: brussels, BELGIUM
cutting is easy and don't weaken the arms
I don't think there will be another solution for you in the near future
see message earlier:
I cut the front suspensionarms with a rotating tool to sharpen scissors and so on
it's easy but you have to do it slowly, taking care not to take off to much material in the end
also scrap the same quantity on both sides and stay centered on all sides, with that arm to the tool
cut in front part where pin goes through, just 10 mm large to clear the towerplate to (see pix)
to fill the gap I bought some extra 4mm shimmclips, mine are from from xb8
I run white xb8 shocksprings to
result is spectacular , much more steering , like a jammin x1cr
car just twists around the curves, you have to ajust the rear though to get it more stable
I use a goldcoloured rear anti-rolbar and white xb8 springs al around
or you can play with harder front rollbarr, shocksprings or oil
http://upl.silentwhisper.net/uplfold...ontarm.cut.jpg
I don't think there will be another solution for you in the near future
see message earlier:
I cut the front suspensionarms with a rotating tool to sharpen scissors and so on
it's easy but you have to do it slowly, taking care not to take off to much material in the end
also scrap the same quantity on both sides and stay centered on all sides, with that arm to the tool
cut in front part where pin goes through, just 10 mm large to clear the towerplate to (see pix)
to fill the gap I bought some extra 4mm shimmclips, mine are from from xb8
I run white xb8 shocksprings to
result is spectacular , much more steering , like a jammin x1cr
car just twists around the curves, you have to ajust the rear though to get it more stable
I use a goldcoloured rear anti-rolbar and white xb8 springs al around
or you can play with harder front rollbarr, shocksprings or oil
http://upl.silentwhisper.net/uplfold...ontarm.cut.jpg
#403
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From: brussels, BELGIUM
Rwong
go to this site
is free, just register and follow instructions, easy
http://upl.silentwhisper.net/
go to this site
is free, just register and follow instructions, easy
http://upl.silentwhisper.net/
#404

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From: Columbia,
MD
Im thinking of getting a motor saver air filter.. but i dont know which one is the right one... is it [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDBD5&P=ML]this one?[/link] or [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDNV1&P=ML]this one...[/link]
Also...should i buy after run oil or can i just use WD-40?
Thanks
-NoName
Also...should i buy after run oil or can i just use WD-40?
Thanks
-NoName
#405
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From: brussels, BELGIUM
Rwong:
like 1 degree antisquat will be better on bumpy tracks
the buggy flying over the bumps more
: with more degrees hanging to the rear, the rear arms are banging more up against the bumps
against 3 degrees better on flatter even low grip tracks....
sorry this was about the anti-squat degree shimms going under the suspension blocks
stock degree susp.blocks is 3°
2.25 or 1°: gives less stabilty on the straights, on braking and on-power exiting corners
but if the car is twitchy or once commences to slide wil be more controlable
about new ackermann steeringplate : forward hole gives more smoother steering response
rear hole more crispy steering response
shimms are to be put under the rodpoints
to fine tune the steering toe-ing out under pressure
like 1 degree antisquat will be better on bumpy tracks
the buggy flying over the bumps more
: with more degrees hanging to the rear, the rear arms are banging more up against the bumps
against 3 degrees better on flatter even low grip tracks....
sorry this was about the anti-squat degree shimms going under the suspension blocks
stock degree susp.blocks is 3°
2.25 or 1°: gives less stabilty on the straights, on braking and on-power exiting corners
but if the car is twitchy or once commences to slide wil be more controlable
about new ackermann steeringplate : forward hole gives more smoother steering response
rear hole more crispy steering response
shimms are to be put under the rodpoints
to fine tune the steering toe-ing out under pressure
#406
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From: , MEXICO
thereisnoname,
If you check carefull in this forum, you find a lot of people cannt recommend to use WD-40.
The air filter....good question. Do you consider to use the alum version for Taxx... look better and maybe is better because is for a truck.
If you check carefull in this forum, you find a lot of people cannt recommend to use WD-40.
The air filter....good question. Do you consider to use the alum version for Taxx... look better and maybe is better because is for a truck.
#407
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From: , MEXICO
Time to accelerate.
Why the mayhem when you stop it and press the trotle in full acceleration the mayhem wait 2 sec to stall?
Maybe is some problem with the HSN.
Why the mayhem when you stop it and press the trotle in full acceleration the mayhem wait 2 sec to stall?
Maybe is some problem with the HSN.
#409
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From: , MEXICO
For everyone to like to install a new servo.
First, put the servo in the neutral position
Second, check the steering response in both side (left and right)
Finally assembly the rest of the part.
BTW, The steering servo JR 8800t is very fantastic.
First, put the servo in the neutral position
Second, check the steering response in both side (left and right)
Finally assembly the rest of the part.
BTW, The steering servo JR 8800t is very fantastic.
#411
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From: , MEXICO
engine mounts:
Who have the new ENGINE MOUNTS part SWK9228?
My doubt is: this new part is the same height as the RTR engine mounts.
Can I use the new ENGINE MOUNTS part SWK9228 with my Mayhem RTR without some modification?
Who have the new ENGINE MOUNTS part SWK9228?
My doubt is: this new part is the same height as the RTR engine mounts.
Can I use the new ENGINE MOUNTS part SWK9228 with my Mayhem RTR without some modification?
#413
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From: , MEXICO
gdc02
I received a e-mail of the tech support of horrizon. They explaind is the same height as the RTR engine mounts. I dont why they say that.
I received a e-mail of the tech support of horrizon. They explaind is the same height as the RTR engine mounts. I dont why they say that.
#414
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From: Barrie,
ON, CANADA
Just thought i would post some pics of my mayhem from the track practice last night in ontario canada....
I am very impressed with this buggy...
It was a little dusty at the track.. I almost couldnt see the buggy any more on certain areas of the track... I got home and all i could say was WOW... your a mess... then I cleaned it...
I am very impressed with this buggy...
It was a little dusty at the track.. I almost couldnt see the buggy any more on certain areas of the track... I got home and all i could say was WOW... your a mess... then I cleaned it...
#417
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From: Barrie,
ON, CANADA
ORIGINAL: Rockman
Tell us how you went about cleaning them up. I use denatured alcohol, tooth brush, air compressor and then followup with WD 40.
Rockman
Tell us how you went about cleaning them up. I use denatured alcohol, tooth brush, air compressor and then followup with WD 40.
Rockman
I let the WD-40 soak for a min or 2.. then just air compressor the rest of it off...
#419
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From: , MD, AFGHANISTAN
I was just wondering what fuel all of you guys use...I was looking at Odonnells fuel...but it seems for the real racer...im more of a basher who likes to race..so i was looking at the Trinity Horsepower 20% fuel...is this fuel any good?
Thanks
-Erc
Thanks
-Erc
#420
Trinity fuel is very good. Try 30% instead of 20%. You get 12% oil blend which will give you some extra protection. I beleive the other fuel is 8% oil which is more of a true racer blend. If you go this route you may want to try White Lightning. I use it for my buggy and it does great for racing. I actually run it a little rich and still has power with 30% nitro.
Rockman
Rockman
#423
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From: , MEXICO
Sorry....This is the pic of the alum diff for the mayhem.
You need this two items:





Finally result


Finish to install in teh Mayhem

You need this two items:





Finally result


Finish to install in teh Mayhem

ORIGINAL: gdc02
rwong
yes send pix
here is one of our track(for now will be changed)
http://upl.silentwhisper.net/uplfold.../track_ch2.jpg
rwong
yes send pix
here is one of our track(for now will be changed)
http://upl.silentwhisper.net/uplfold.../track_ch2.jpg
#424
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From: brussels, BELGIUM
haha , nice , I had the polished ones
now I must ask you
how do you get the picture to open in here like that
if I put a picture it doesn't show
I still don't wana use the metal shells
I got the new towers
and I don't like them either
neither the design off the new motormounts....
they had to be 1piece
now I am selling kind of Werks clutches not originals
new ones with carbon shoes for the mayhem
mayhem blue color as above
interested ?
also caps "mayhem"
now I must ask you
how do you get the picture to open in here like that
if I put a picture it doesn't show
I still don't wana use the metal shells
I got the new towers
and I don't like them either
neither the design off the new motormounts....
they had to be 1piece
now I am selling kind of Werks clutches not originals
new ones with carbon shoes for the mayhem
mayhem blue color as above
interested ?
also caps "mayhem"
#425
You may want to move the shim from the right side to the left side to allow for better action of the gears using aluminum diff covers.
Rockman
Rockman


