efra tank rules

"Fuel Tank capacity:
125ccm
including all piping, tubes and filter up to the carburettor.
The tank will be measured using an IFMAR approved measuring cylinder.
The capacity of the fuel tank must not be adjusted by insertion of any loose object"

gdc, wow I havn't seen that rule. At our club races nobody cares about that stuff as long as it's not rediculous. I thought the fuel line in the tank was legal. What do the guys with big tanks so? Doesn't the Losi 10th scale gas truck have a giant tank? I was told that's what they were doing to pass tech.

125cc tank rule is for pro buggy 1/8

I don't know what todo then....but it matters only at top racing scene I suppose

Does anyone know if an Ofna clutch bell will fit the Mayhem, and of course are the gears compatible?
Thanks.

Rwong21,
You are the greatest!! You're right I did forget about that post.
By the way, any news on how your buggy handles with the shims?
You keep posting, we keep learning.
Rockman

yes they will fit.and the gears are compatibale that is what i ru n on my car.they seem to be stronger and last a lot longer also

Thank you buschy. Our local hobby doesn't carry much Mayhem stuff[]

here are the links
they are kinda short. I should have somemore as soon as 2thextreme gets his vids downloaded to the net. he has some awsome footage.

http://www.rcgroups.com/gallery/show...cat=500&page=1
http://www.rcgroups.com/gallery/show...cat=500&page=1
http://www.rcgroups.com/gallery/show...cat=500&page=1
http://www.rcgroups.com/gallery/show...cat=500&page=1
http://www.rcgroups.com/gallery/show...cat=500&page=1
http://www.rcgroups.com/gallery/show...cat=500&page=1

I am trying to match up my Mayhem to the Sportwerks tuning advise given on their website. I notice a lot of mounting hole positions in the rear shock tower for both the shock and the turnbuckle. I also notice top and bottom mounting holes in the knuckle hub. Any suggestions on mounting based on Mayhem advice given on the web page? What changes effect what? I am really interested in learning more about tuning the suspension and what really matters.
Rockman

Check out this resource - it is really very good. [link=http://users.pandora.be/elvo/]link[/link]

Thanks for the information, I will try to read this weekend.
I wonder if anyone has setup sheets for medium to slick traction tracks. I notice the Mayhem official version but I am looking for pictured setup sheets like many other manufactures have on their buggies.
How about it. Anyone have this already done?
Rockman

just bought a new mayhem PRO and have some of our racers tune at set it properly.

it should be arrive tommorow.
o yea, they use weird diff setup 0,6-0,6-Black Grease into my new mayhem pro.
And they need to re lock-tight it since it didn't come with factory built.

i just can't wait to drive it !!!!

I called Horizon Hobby today and talked to customer service. They suggested I call back tomorrow when the buggy guy is in and talk about the setups.
I will be asking about hub center and hub roll. Also about the use of the 4 holes that the rear camber turnbuckle is attached to.
I am becoming very interested in the tuning possibilities of this buggy. I beleive it will be a great racer when I start running again next time.
Rockman

Actually, I have the configuration like the pic. My intention is to try to make the wear of the tire are the same. I begin to see the good result. but another hand, this configuration is less stable specially in the corner of the track. I have more probability to lose the control of the busy.
The best combination is the use the small shim of the top.

about the camber shims:
better °'s
black one ( always the bigger one) below, and a silver one above : 1.0° camber
or
silver below and blue above : 0.5°
or black one below and blue above : 1.5°...

Rwong
the camber adjustment isn't to use the tires flat
on the contrary , you should always have at least 0.5° camber
otherwise the tires will hook into the track which is not so good

up front: more camber gives more steering, less camber gives less steering

and rear,
more: decreases traction at the beginning and mid corner
makes the rear glide a bit in the holes/bumps, so the buggy doesn't turn over
and less increases this, to a point where the car breaks out at the rear

suspension rods in the same levelas arms, gives no change in camber
rods higher upright side, give more camber at compression of suspension/shocks
rods higher on the towers, gives more camber at decompresion of the suspension/shocks
the shorter the rods the more variation of camber one gets

did you know with more camber the suspensions work better to?
the tires driving on their sides take over some suspension work ...

thk a lot

I have a question regarding starter boxes. I bought an XTM starter box that came with power panel, battery, charger, etc. Very nice quality but having some trouble with setup. I changed the position of the motor but will need to reverse the direction of the motor. Any ideas? I did reverse the leads off of the motor but which allows the motor to turn in correct direction but I loose the use of the power panel. Also I have questions about alignment.
Is it best to push down on front end of buggy or pack end to trigger the starter box switch?
Rockman

I think I have the starter box questions figured out and should be able to start up my new .21 Sportwerks motor tomorrow. This engine has so much compression new that it hardley will move in the new sleeve. I have put lots of afterrun oil in there to protect it on it's first start. Let's see how the new box does tomorrow. By the way, the JP1 pipe fit fine. I did however trim away some of the body in the pack so the header doesn't burn.
Rockman

get a heat gun and point it to the crank.
it'll be much better way to break in your motor.

or use hair dryer could do the job too

i like the compresion so much.
tighter mean faster.

my sirio kanai still locked up even it already run for 10 tanks.
yes, it's fast

I got the Sportwerks .21 started today. Even the huge XTM starter motor had slight problem. This is the tightest motor I have ever had. I had to increase the idle and increase some of the LSN to get enough fuel to move and then leaned it our half turn to keep from flooding. Got half of a tank through the motor.
Have any of you ever had a motor sound out of balance with the sound it makes. I wonder if this is more due to the rich settings or maybe I damaged motor. It sound this way at idle but seems to sound more normal, although rich, at throttle.
Please give me some feed back.
By the way. Any of you care to share some of your needle settings for this motor??
Rockman

Rockman, It sounds as if your engin is 4 cycling at lower rpms because of the rich setting on the LSN . I would try very small leaner adjustments on your LSN ,waiting about 20 to 30 seconds between adjustments till the engine starts to 2 cycle. If it stalls you may have to up your idle a little. Be patient and heat up the engine with a hair dryer before cranking her over.

Would 3 turns out on LSN be okay for this engine? I noticed it came at 4 out new whick seemed very rich.
Rockman

I bought some OFNA blue medium springs for the front and rear. All for around 16. Are these to soft as compared to the black springs that come stock or are they stiffer? Anyone using these?
Rockman

squeeze em, and see which one is harder to compress. that's how you tell

Rockman, 3 turns is rich ,I would try 2 1/2 turns .I'm not sure why these engines are sent out set so rich ; the settings make it hard to keep them running long enough to get the temp up .