Why would you just not take out the 4 screws holding the motor in and take the whole motor out. Much much easier to replace the shoes with the motor out.

I thought we were talking about the spur gear on the center diff.
Rockman

OK, I pulled the motor out and replaced the clutch shoes and clutch bell. NOW, I am gonna need to replace the spur gear. What is the EASIEST way to do that? I don't wanna take alot of it apart just to see how it goes together this time. I just wanna get the new titanium nit. spur gear in.

I’m going to make a few suggestions here:

Take out your manual and flip to the exploded view of the center diff assembly. By paying attention and mentally noting what you see in the diagram, this will help you pre-familiarize yourself on how it all fits together and what screws holds what together.

You can remove the center diff one of two ways. 1) Like I said in the beginning (by removing the 4 screws from the bottom)... 2) As Rockman noted, by removing the 4 screws from the top.

You’ll still have to unclip the brake linkages from the diff and it helps to unclip the throttle linkage at the carb as well just to get it out of your way. It is also easiest to remove the arm from the throttle servo by removing the hold down screw of it. This allows you to set the entire linkage assembly aside (do your best to put the servo arm back in the same place it was removed). Worse case scenario, you’ll have to move it a notch or two upon reassembly. If you choose NOT to remove the entire center diff assembly, there are 4 “holes” in the center diff support plate. Deep within’ these holes are screws. These screws hold the top and bottom sections of the bearing supports together. By removing these screws you can slide the center diff up and out thusly leaving the lower bearing supports attached to the chassis. After the center diff is removed, just fallow instructions as noted in my previous post about the brake assembly, rotor, yoke and bearing removal.

I catch a slight hint that you are a bit nervous about taking your car/truck apart. Don’t be....hell, you can’t be. If you intend on keeping it and intend on operating on a regular basis, you will be replacing parts whether they be broken or worn out. And of coarse you’ll have to do so anytime you choose to install an upgrade part or alter stuff such as gears or what-have-you. You would be surprised at what you will learn about your car/truck just by taking it apart (or sections thereof) from time to time. It’s almost necessary to this just to “re-torque” hard to get to screws, nuts and bolts for periodic maintenance (I say periodic but his is a must for me after EVERY bashing session). Your manual with it’s exploded views are your friend so don’t hesitate to use it. Knowing how to take apart your vehicle (or sections of it) quickly and easily can be vital. This know how without fear helps dubiously in “track side” repairs. The difference in this knowledge can been the difference between being down for a day with a simple broken control arm and being down for 10 minutes and doing the repairs “on sight” instead of doing the repairs at home.

I would also suggest setting aside an entire weekend, one of which you could devote yourself solely to your car/truck and taking it completely apart.......to the bare bones, and reassembling it. You will learn an ungodly amount about your vehicle this way I swear.

If I get the Pro motor mounts, or the new chassis stiffners ones, along with the non roto start backplate, can I put those on the .26 and lower it so I an use a starter box as long as I widen the hole in the chassis a bit?

Yes, the Pro motor mounts are lower than stock. In fact, if you cut off two ribs off the stock mounts they’ll be just as low. You will need to grind some off the chassis at the flywheel access hole from the bottom as you have inquired.

I left my roto start on mine. For the only reason that I could run out into the field, track, whatever with my glowstarter and roto start and restart my truck quicky and easily without the starter box. I also like to have at least two ways of starting my junk just in case one method fails.

Yeah, I am not really sure what I am going to do yet. I think for now I will just stick with the roto start. I have just picked up a used mayhem pro along with a starter box, otherwise I would not even be worrying about it. I have bought a new sportwerks .26 with carb, and the clutchbell, flywheel, shoes, roto start backplate, etc and it also include the RTR motor mounts so I will be fine for now. I am just trying to figure out since I already have the box if I should take advantage of it since I will be racing and the lower CG would help. Thanks

anybody heard of a 2 speed on the mayhem?? i want mine to push 60 mph plus , any ideas on what i can do lol

No word out there on a 2 speed being available. Maybe someday. How about emailing Losi and Horizon Hobby and make the suggestion. On the street the mayhem would then outrun most anything.
Rockman

that would be soo sick, a 8th scale buggy stopping sepents and other on road cars.. any ideas on how to get past 50 mph

Don’t even consider a 2 speed. They have their advantages but also have their disadvantages. To achieve the tasks of breaking your speed barriers, you simply need a few more teeth on the clutch bell and more RPM’s out of the engine. I have not been able to achieve the RPM’s with mods that some of the other guys have but seek out and spend the money on having your engine moded. The SWK .26 is already a racing engine and has some very extensive port work from the factory. However, by the likes of people like RB Mods (recommended) they are taking 34,000 rpm engines and turning them into 50,000 RPM screamers. And will do so for all of about a $150.

where do you get that done, and its it reliable

http://rbmods.net/home.php

damn that shyt is expensive... any cheaper alternatives

Expensive? Are you looking at their complete engines or their services?

It is best to call him, tell him what you have and what you want it to do. From there he will give you a price and/or a recommendation. He's damn good and in my opinion, damn cheap.

I'm telling you dude, you've never seen nothing like a pure moded engine. I have gotten 2.9 horsepower out of an OS .21 buggy sport engine (with composite slide valve carb). It was just a tad over 1.4 before the mods and I didn't even counter balance it and picked up over 8,000 RPM's.

How did you get the 2.9 hp rating. Dyno?

Yes, I (we, guys at the shop) have an RC engine dyno and an RC chassis dyno.

Nice!
Can you post some screenshots? What OS was it... RG?

This is what I actually plan on doing right hear on this board.......eventually.

There are a lot of “modders” out there for RC engines. Lots of business’s and services available. But what is scarce is information on “how to’s” and teachings of the how to’s and the why’s....the cause and effects.......

There also isn’t a whole lot of understandable info for the average joe in building your own home made dyno’s that work and do so for cheap.

One of my intentions, since we do not plan on being of public service or operating a business out of modding RC engines, is to openly give all the information I possibly can (with pic’s and video’s) for all the above. I just don’t feel that the information should be as hard to find as it is.

We made our own dyno’s but calibrated them with “store bought” models.

Be patient and you’ll have more info than you can stomach in one sitting and there will be a lot of “oooh” and “ahhhh”.

No screenshots at this time..........later maybe. And yes, a run of the mill RG. It actually has potential but requires a bunch of mods. That's about as basic as .21 engine can get. It's glorified Velocity .15 or .17 from Duratrax in my opinion.

Can't wait. [sm=thumbup.gif]
I do some modding just for fun but only on my stuff.

u think he could mod my .26 how do you think that would perform.... btw i was sayin the rb engines wree expensive 500$ lol

I have not phoned Mr. Rick concerning the matter but I have emailed him for insight on the SWK .26. Thus far, I have not received a response and I’ll probably just call him later on anywayz. I want his personal “take” on the stock .26 engine.

The SWK .26 is just shy of a full racing engine and that isn’t just a claim. Trust me, I’ve had them apart and there isn’t much to do other than a little clean up work. The crank is already very nicely turbo ported and has 3 turbo slots. It being a 7 port engine, all the transfer ports are nicely defined. The sleeve only needs a little porting. The blocks passages are just a little rough from the casting but nothing major in restriction. Again, just a little clean up here. Minimal piston to head clearance on an RC engine is .025 thousandths. On most RC engines there is plenty of extra room to have a head button machined down, room to use minimal thickness head gaskets and/or to find means to lower the glow plug deeper into the chamber all in the name of raising compression. The .26 only has .029 thousandths to begin with. That baby has got compression and a very tight quench. The connecting rod is knife edged. The piston could stand to be lightened a little and the crank counter balanced accordingly. The one practice we are lacking at the moment is getting down into the nitty gritty of manipulating the timing. We’re still learning the do’s and don’t’s and the cause and effects but this is where some serious power awakenings come into play as well as RPM’s. RB Mods already does all these things and are very knowledgeable about every aspect of what they are doing.

You betcha.

To give a fair comparison that you could imagine in your head:

A modded .26 would make your current .26 look like an HPI .18.

It's more than worth the money man. It's a jaw dropping difference.

that sounds too good to be true for the price, i got ahold og him and he told me 125 shipped, he said my full throttle now is going to be half throttle when the engines done, sweeet lol

How is the .21 RG in the Mayhem?