And is it normal for the motor to only make the cranking noise when you just hit the starter button. If you hold the starter button on it just spins freely and does not crank the motor.

Kao, make sure your glow plug is good, your igniter is charged up, you are getting fuel to the carb.
Are you covering the hole on the exhaust as you first crank without glow igniter on the glow plug?
You need to prime the fuel to the carb.
Rockman

YES, but what is wierd is, it is like the roto start spins but does not turn the piston, it just spins freely. All my other nitro vehicles when you crank em you here the compresion, hard to explain

KaotikH2,
The one-way in the motor is slipping. I had the same problem and Horizon just told me to clean it. I did and it works for a while. I'm not satisfied, in my opinion the one way, or the shaft that it is turning is faulty. Rather than take the backplate off the motor, just try squirting some carb cleaner in the carb intake. When you do this turn the motor, by rotating the flywheel, so that it is on compression. Doing this will uncover the hole in the crankshaft and allow the cleaner into the crankcase. Now tip the car so that the cleaner will find it way to the rear of the motor. Try the electric starter now, its should turn the motor over easily now!

I will try that in the morning, thanks a bunch for the input. Any clue why this thing will only go about 75 feet away before I lose signal?

You may or may not be loosing a signal at 75 feet. To rule out your radio and receiver, disconnect the fail safe (take it completely out of the equation) and then operate the truck. If its range seems to be as it should be then you’ll know it is something in the fail safe.

If it is the fail safe causing the problem..........have you set the desired parameters? If not, you need to.

If the fail safe isn’t causing the problem........you could have a bad radio, bad channel on the radio or a bad receiver. Change the channel on the radio and then do the same on the receiver (make sure you match them together) and try it then.

I was reading that someone put a 12 tooth clutch bell and got quicker acceleration. I was wondering the pros and cons to that. I will have my .26 RTR mayhem clutch assembly apart anyway to upgrade to alum. clutch shoes because the fatory ones are slipping. AND, is that all that would need to be done just to get some better acceleration out of it. I mainly use this Mayhem for bashing and it does not hit a race track.

Most club racers use 13 tooth. Allows for quicker acceleration but also some top end speed.
12 may cause you to lose top end.
Rockman

YOU WOULD HAVE GREAT ACCELERATION WITH A 12 TOOTH CLUTCH BELL.BUT WOULD LOSE SOME TOP END SPEED DUE TO THE MOTOR REACHING ITS TOP REVS FASTER.IN MY EXPERIANCE I FOUND THE 13 TOOTH TO BE GREAT.BUT IF YOU DONT MIND LOSING A LITTLE TOP SPEED AND WANT TO GAIN ACCELRATION THEN THAT WOULD WORK.HAPPY R/CIN TO YOU

A co-worker has replaced the factory 13 tooth clutch bell with the 12. Yes the bottom end was awesome but it did suffer on the top. He has gone as high as an 18 tooth clutch bell which of coarse raped the bottom end but my gawd the top speed was just unreal. He ran a 14 tooth for quite some time and was happy with it overall. We redesigned our track and he needing a little more bottom end dig, he fell back to the original 13 tooth clutch bell. Because of his experimenting I’m satisfied with mine just leaving it like it came in the box.........a 13 tooth.

The aluminum clutch shoes help in a lot of aspects but they do have some evils. They simply grab harder and slightly sooner than the OE plastics. Nova RC Products make adjustable aluminum shoes that you can adjust so that the engine revs a little higher before the clutch engages. With the correct adjustment the car/truck will simply just tear out of the hole.

Besides, the Sportwerks aluminum shoes have been discontinued. Ofna’s shoes work though and again, check out Nova RC.

CNR (crazy nut racing) also makes a good aluminum shoe that works well with this motor. I run them on my LST.

I thought the original clutchbell had a 14 tooth gear.
I purchased a 13 to allow for quicker accel.
Rockman

I also thought 14 was stock, and I will go with a 13 instead of a 12.

hey what do you guys think of like a 17 or 18 plus clutchbell... i dont need accelerations cause i got a jp1, soo i need some top end.. what do you thin the end result should be like?

Now that is as interesting concept, you are thinking about going with a higher count clutchbell because your JP1 pipe allows for better acceleration on the mid to low torque range. Hmmmm, interesting.
Rockman

yeah also instead of doing that, the jp1 and .26 have such an amazing torque combo its unbeliveable.. soo i was thinking since the stock pipe if more midrange topend, ill use the nice smooth flowing header from the jp1 and put the stock pipe on... im interested in what might happen.. if u look at the stock header theres alota restriction....

Strangely enough, you’re right, it is supposed to be a 14. I even looked it up in the manual. Mine however has a 13 box stock. So I don’t know what’s up with that.

Are you talking about the buggy or the ST?

What Rockman is suggesting is that the JP1 pipe and the stock Sportwerks HT (high torque) pipe is practically the same thing. Or at lease they target the same power range. With either of these used in conjunction with an 18 clutch bell will create an exciting restriction of both worlds. You will knock the crap out of the bottom end with the high gear.......and you will kill potential top end with the pipe restricting RPM’s on the other end. For an instant though, somewhere in the middle of the WOT acceleration it’ll pull real hard like that of a top fuel dragster...........then the gitty-up-and-go will have been gotten and that would be the end of that.

If you wanna free up some restrictions start with the header pipe (the “u” pipe). If you take it off and look into it, especially the end that connects closest to the engine, you’ll see a massive restriction. With a die-grinder, remove this restriction. Also, do not run any of the carb restrictors. The largest is 9 mm and the carbs bore is 10 mm. I took the time to bore one out to 11 mm. The theory was clear.........a nice smooth flow of air into the carb would be most beneficial. I spent a lot of time on that restrictor....boring...polishing.........turn out great. On the dyno though, it lived up to it’s name as a “restrictor” even though it was larger than the carb bore itself. By running an “open carb”, the gains were significant.

yeah thats a good idea, but if you ever look at the jp1 the header is bassically a half circle and the header it self has a lot bigger pipeing... and the stock header is shape as a U like you wree saying... it takes longer for the exhaust gases to exit the twisty turn U header rather than a nice smooth flowing half circle... ill give it a try and tell yall the results

OK, I am putting new aluminum clutch shoes and titanium nitride clutch bell. I have the old clutch bell and clutch off the flywheel. NOW... Do I take the nut off that holds the flywheel on before putting the new clutch shoes on or NO?

Or is there instructions online somewhere. I am wondering the procedure of replacing the sput gear also. I bought a titanium Nitride one of those also.... but I can't get the damn clutch shoes on yet.

No, you do not have to remove the nut that holds the flywheel on. In fact, this would be pretty difficult to do with the shoes still on. Just take a small standard screwdriver and pry the clutch shoes off (prying between the shoes and the flywheel). They should pop right off with a little force. Remember though, the springs need to be pryed up off the nut too.

On the spur gear, disconnect the brake and throttle linkages at the center diff. Remove the screws (from the bottom) that hold the entire center diff assembly to the chassis and remove it. The dog bones will fall out of the assembly with no problems. Once you have the center diff removed, remove the brake assembly (including the rotor) from the yoke closest to the spur gear. The bearing support is a 2 piece design and will split. Remove the two screws holding it together, split it and remove it. Remove the bearing and now you have complete unobstructed access to the 4 screws that hold the spur gear on.

Billyman, I have taken my center diff our before with the spur taking out the 4 screws from the top. I haven't done this with taking out the bottom screws. Have you tried it the other way?
Rockman

I've done the same, just but removing the bearing support top halves and pulling the center diff out that way. For KaotikH2 , I recommended removing the whole deally so he'll get a little more hands on on how it's all made and put together.