The standard USA "pro" kit is very good, I've run one for over a year now
But keep in mind, you'll still need a set of better shock towers and CNC knuckles,, expect an extra $100 or so + what ever the kit costs you.

where can u find one, because none of my lhs have it in, also does anyone have an opinion on the jammin?

sorry to throw this last one in there, but what about the Mugen mbX5

Is Blue Thunder a good fuel? My friend at school says it sucks.What kind of Nitro should I use? Something good.Can you use two kinds of Nitro like use BluThur.Then later use some other kind?Plz tell me.thx.

I'd say Hyper pro over the Jammin. With as many things considered as I know, the hyper will give you more value. The Hyper has a better engine mount, thus the redesigned unit now on the Jammins. And the Hyper has the toughest diffs on the market, period. And with the 125 bucks you'll save buying the Hyper, you will have some cash to make it an EVEN BETTER buggy. though the only hop ups you MIGHT NEED, is the PCR upper rear chassis/wing support. And maybe metal posts for the servo tray. The PCR pro does not include the PCR brace I'm talking about, and I don't think the the metal posts either. You can save some weight by replacing the coarse bolts in the wing posts with machine theaded ones, rather than using metal posts there. Alot of people use metal posts there cause the bolts will back out sometimes. Anytime this is a problem, replace them with machine threaded ones. You don'y need to replace the part, just the fastener. I use fine threaded bolts in crucial areas on all my kits, no matter what it comes with. Diff housings, shock towers, chassis supports, and wing braces should always get machine screws. Not coarse "self taping" bolts.

7 pro is a bit outdate currently.
we are waiting for hyper 8 PRO (not RTR).

i think it's going to be a bomb.
about PBS and C-Hub

PBS will give you more steering but C-Hub is last longer then PBS (i tried this before).
C-Hub suspensin is a very2x durable suspension design.

may be that's why 80% of buggy use C-hus instead of PBS.

any opinion ?

I've heard blue thunder isn't that hot, tbh, but most fuels are ok with the right glo plug. Many engines have preferences of combinations of glo plug and fuel. Get the best quality fuel you can afford. By the way, changing brand later is not a problem (even changing percentage, but that's another thing, there are things you need to do when you do this), but in either case, a retune of the engine would definitely be needed, due to different oil percentages, etc. etc.

Yes, sorry man, I have to disagree on both counts there. PBS is definitely stronger than c-hub (I have seen this), and c-hub gives more steering (on the hyper 7 series, that is, I can't speak for other brands/buggies). I'm surprised you say you've tried it, and find it the opposite, however I am willing to be wrong. I'm sure Alex will come and clear this up for us.

As I said earlier in the topic (or was it in another thread?!), the main advantage of PBS is the on-car adjustability.

That's why you have to get the CNC knuckles for the C-hub car,,, the stock alum, knuckles suck. The car is practically unbreakable after that
(althou I did strip out a kin pin screw last race,, hit a jump wall three times,, I was driving terrible that night)

What's more adjustable anyway, practically speaking? besides track width that you can't change to much anyway?

A little inside skinny to answer my previous quesstion to Hoese37
Ofna tried to get it's drivers to use the PBS car,,, non wanted too,,,it's not the PBS System per say, look at the popularity of the mbx5 and others, it's the durability of the Ofna pbs car, it just gets loose to fast, The c-hub car with the CNC knuckles Stays more consistant and will allow you to finish.

You can get a H7 pro here http://www.nitrohouse.com/ Tower has them in stock as well

The Jammin and the x5 are both great cars too.

If you have a LHS you plan to buy parts from,, see which brand they support, that might help in your decision

i didn't mean to offense any PBS driver especially hyper's but i agree that hyper with CNC c-hub is the best way to race and last your car till finish.
many PBS at my local track had loose the PBS on hyper early but they replace it with mbx-5 pivot ball and its housing too and problem solved........

but honestly, i never have any broken part especially with c-hub thing for 2 years (hyper 7 pro) and that make me satisfied with c-hub hyper.

well, im looking to mostly race and imkinda leaning more towards the mugen...any sugestions on engine/ exhaust around 200$

thanks

OS RG and a Jammin JP-1 pipe.

I posted some pics once of my Hyper 7 and PBS agaisnt each other to prove that the steering degree between the two is exactly the same. The C-Hub is lighter in weight, that's why people will have a tendency to favor it over the PBS. The PBS defintely stick to the track better in the sense it gets more traction, but it's harder to swing the extra weight around. Both are strong, and both have their pros and cons. The PBS is my preffered version if I had to choose between the two. If you know how to drive, then you can work with the weight dis-advantage. The C-hub gets a little bouncier through rough tracks. I guess I can post them again if I have to. And yes, the PBS is more versatile in adjustemnts. try to simply adjust the rear toe in of a C-hub car with just the turn of a screw. And yes the track width, on the front, and rear. You can also change castor by just simply changing bushings on the front upper A-arm, without changing hub carriers, or disassembling anything.

Etnie... I live around the corner from you in Riverview. I just got my first Nitro car a month or so ago. I got the Hyper7 pro, Force .28. I have not had too much time to run it but overall from what I have seen I like it. Just be patient breaking it in. I was considering the Jammin' but no use dropping the extra money considering I will never race it. Mostly plan taking it out to the motocross track when I go riding.

Do you have AOL Or MSN Messenger i dont have no one to talk to about nitro cars but 1 person online.I dont like have to wait 1 hour for a reply.my friend at school is getting a nitro truck but he no's nutting about nitro. where in riverview? i live off on symmes.On Spivey Rd.I hate Gibsonton.lol. ttyl cya

Aol is motohead279... never on there though. I live off of 301, a mile or so south of Symmes. I am learning as I go with nitro. Have not had much time to drive the car, real busy with work and life. Definately search on here about questions, I have learned a lot on here just by reading topics.

My engine is at TDC.How do i get it to move.I cant start it.Is it ok if i left it like that for a day?Does the flywheel get hot?

you can take a flat screw driver and wedge under the chassis and get the flywheel to come off TDC

The old breaking in a new motor thing huh??
try the hair dryer trick,, it helps

i cant get it to start at all i massed with the screws lol hhheeellpp

Did you read the instructions that Foxy wrote for you?

If not, then read them - the instructions came from Alex and will provide you with guidelines and better help than you could hope for.

Break-in of a new engine can be a real pain - especially if you don't do it the right way.

i can get it started 1 time every like 30 mins and it is idling to fast.help

it tells me to screw the same screw twis and some make it where a dummy could read it lol. thx

Can someone tell me the right way to set the needles.And how to make it have lower idle its idling fast.

First of all you should set it back to the factory settings to be on the safe side
Sounds like you need to start over
it's in the manual that came it the engine

Then set the idle stop screw so the venturi closes off a little more,,, that will reduce you Idle RPM