YPC

Hi Maui John

Bro' is toughening up.........all the surfing is building him up..........starting to look 'buffed'..........LOL

Apart from some design flaws initially - he has stood up to the surf conditions quite well.......my initial cloth strand strength was to weak.....since then I have a strong strand, especially the vertical, layered with the carbon fiber.......epoxied......so he is about as strong as can be............

I change the fins out........the Y fin has its advantages - but - does seem to suck more Amps due to the added drag, so it depends on the wave and the day. The single fin has more of a 'authentic' look ( if anything).......there is much to be said for different shape/length/width rudders ........still much to be realized........sure we will cover it in the next 100 pages.

Cant wait to get this board WET.................

Dominic (Bro'Surfer)

YPC

Hi PP...........its amazing how folk love to give him a 'squeeze' and bend his arm...........they love the 'wet-suite' feel of the neoprene. I will work on a tight fitting 'bright colored' Lycra top. which will look cool ........maybe have Bro' screen printed on the front/ back.

Trying various Neoprene colors I reckon will become a hassle factor.

The neoprene is a closed cell product- however - a tiny amount of water will collect on the surface where the neoprene has been shaped, very little, not worth considering. Only weighing in at 135grams......he is super light for his size, a few more grams of surface water wont be an issue.

I have also 'mastered molding the head with a 2 part polyurethane foam now - works magic - the aerosol cans are expensive - have a low density - and block up to easy.

Dominic (Bro'Surfer)

powerpark

My Feedback: (1)

With the bright colored' Lycra top you can add some ripped abs to him, LOL. Good work!

YPC

Question in a PM......How do I fix Bro' to the deck.

Previously I used a single 4mm s/s bolt/nut.......BUT .... this allowed 'rotation at the foot ...............now I use 2 - 3 mm s/s bolts on each foot.(length to be cut down on final fitting)

Another bite...........got the motor mount plate shaped and fitted .....notice the 'slots' at the bolt and shaft holes.......this makes removing/fitting the motor a 'snap'
Its a beefy motor.......comparing it to the 28mm.......which is also a Y motor......how do you tell ?...........spin the motor and feel the free roll - then bring the 3 contacts together ( touching one another) now spin the motor - if you feel a resistance......its a Y motor. If it runs freely.......its a D

Our Youngest.....rc board shaper........'Jensen'.....my youngest son..........shaping up his first board................just loves hanging in the workshop.

Swell - 2 ft - glassy....off for a session this afternoon as the tide pushes in.

Dominic (Bro'Surfer)

powerpark

My Feedback: (1)

YPC Good info about the Y and D brushless motor. I will keep that in mine. Is a Y motor more rpm and D more torque?
Is the motor mount glued down to the hull? I made mine out the L channel.

RC HAWAIIAN STYLE

Dom

Jensen is our future , and his first board is better than my last board , can you imagine in 20 years what Jensen will be building ,,, flying RC surfers that ride 100 foot waves .. great pictures


Maui john

surfcurls

$700 For An empty Hull / figure Only, that takes skills to fit the rest and make it actually work?
Original Full set up with charger was $499 total AAA ? $Quotes never gell until delivered ...
I bet Seb / Jimi / Fish/ Are Chomping at the bit to comment, or they agree thats a great consumer entry level price point ?

Some thought my prices were a rip curl LOL !
I Think Doms Master Calculator Needs New Flash light Batts [:-]
This is Humor at it's best ...

YPC

Hi Curls.......you sound bent up ...you KEEP taking my Quotes out of CONTEXT.........and YES ! - again - I can build a Molded Board for $500 - its just not worth the initial investment, considering the 'small market............as I have said so many times before......I am starting to think you 'really are' battling to justify your own 'on sell' prices.

As for the $700 estimate for a complete Ready Built 'Custom Board' with a surfer - such as MJ's superb boards - that only needs its running components installed" - all else fitted -all of a a 1/2 hour job......one I could do on the beach.....I dont think I am far off the mark.
Its funny that those individuals you mention 'may be chomping at the bit' to have a 'comment' - like your self - besides Seb - are yet to biuld a 'Custom Board' or Surfer - so in all fairness...........save your 'hollow close out' comments.....................rather look to 'add' some value to the forum or 'any' of what you are currently doing pertaining to rc Surfing...............

Currently - I have resigned myself to 'enjoying' this sport and development as a private individual - sharing my journey of experience with whoever wishes to take note of it - not as a 'manufacturer'- 'retailer' such as yourself - if and when I do change my approach - I assure you - I will let all know and ensure that what I sell -at whatever price - will be 'value' for money'......................

Dominic (Bro'Surfer)

YPC

Hi Maui John........Thanks.....Jensen is a great kid with huge enthusiasm in the work shop.........at 5 years old he already carves decorative wood pieces and has an incredible eye for symmetry.I have no doubt he will be creating some great works in 20 years time..............Skateboarding is his 'thing' rips the half pipe..................fearless !

Sharing the stoke of creativity with ones kids is the greatest trip.........I'll teach him to glass the board next.....My father taught me so many creative skills from a young age - He built our first speed boat in 'our lounge' back in the 60's..........LOL...............we did not have a garage..............he had to remove the huge glass window frame to eventually get it out of the lounge.........evenings after super was all about sanding and varnishing..............LOL......that was way better than vegging and watching TV like so-many families resign themselves to doing now ........

Now-days..............it seems 'basic hand skills' are 'if you can navigate yourself around the WEB or send TEXT messages.........................LOL.........some believe ALL THINGS are only made in CHINA..............sad !

Dominic (Bro'Surfer)

Jensen 'doing' his thing..............

kitekook

Anyone have a Turnigy XK3665-B-2300KV Brushless motor sitting around they might part with?

YPC

Sorry Kite - cant help with the motor...........BUT.......could you tell me if you ever replace the 'bearings' on your motors and whether you lube them ?
Do you have a link for 'small high speed bearings'

Bro'

bearcave

Hi all rc surfer enthusiasts.

I may not be alonein stateing that it'ssometimes difficult to get the time to research all the good stuff that can help with one's rcpersuits better...let alone the timeforR+D and actually getting em happening and enjoying the stoke!

YPCyour technical thoughts and'havin ago" at buildingare first class. Haveing skills in the F1 and Vee hull boats isyour forteand I have learnt much from yournew interest in the rc surfer.....As you sayits a boat that needs to surfa waveandnot looklike a boat!

Maui John, Saildog, Karl, Jock, Hugh and all the many other customizers i've been watchin you too its all good and please take no offence to my likeing of YPC's attitude to this rc persuit.

That saidI have many many pages of this threadto read.... I've readsome of the latest but need to go back and do the full trip but just want you to know YPC that your thoughts and tech stuffhas certainly inspired me to get back intorc surfing and maybe even build myself... or even buy from youif you continue.. your flexy dude is awesome and so relative to whats happenin.... just like your intrusion barrier aroundaround the deck.... and the many other tech things you have mentioned.

ANYWAY I noticed many pages backyour rudder shaft with the ss thread into the custom fin with ss sleeve... it looks good and waswondering if your bellcrank relies only onfriction to stop it moveing... and when you put the MJ inspired deckthreads into the hull, howdeep doyouepoxy them?

PS.. I like my rc surfers and am always modifying things.When I get something interesting to contribute i will... but main reason for this post is thanks for shareing your knowledge for all YPC.

YPC

Hey Bearcave..........thanks for the 'SMOKE'...........LOL.........next time my wife gives me the 'third degree'.........I'm going to use your remarks to show her 'someone' appreciates me.......LOL

I certainly have a few years 'experience in rc boating' which I hope has been adding some value to all in this awesome sport - HOWEVER- without the legends you have mentioned, who have been there and still doing it so well 'before me' ........I doubt very much whether I would be this far down the road...............this forum 'all 200 pages' is really worth the read, I have read it twice........it feels like a long read........but it is quicker than a 'rebuild'..............thanks for the RATING.......its great to know.

Since that rudder - I have simplified it further by epoxying a 4mm bolt ( long smooth shaft with a 10mm threaded end) into a 4mm wooden rudder - then glassing it over. The protruding smooth shaft of the bolt fits into a 4mm ID brass tube (pivot housing). I have never used any rudder 'stoppers' as such. Currently I use a relatively cheap 'metal gear' 3kg torque micro server, which works well. The plastic rudder steering arm may act as a dampener- but I doubt it. I have not broken a servo YET !

The Hatch Cover- 4mm threaded s/s rod is set in to reach the bottom hull surface - and extend out just enough to suitably fit the Knurled nut - 'to long' and its a pain every time the hatch is opened and closed to have to turn the nut 'so many times'........I'm impatient !
I use a syringe to inject ( force) the SLOW curing epoxy into the locating holes - this helps the epoxy to penetrate 'into' the walls of the foam to add value to the overall bond. When you fit the threaded lengths - DONT push them in - RATHER - turn them in as if they are going into a threaded nut - this will displace the least amount of epoxy out of the hole and gather the epoxy around the thread as it is turned in.

Be sure to 'clean' the threaded rod with Acetone 'before' you fit it - as often it has a oiled surface.

LOVE to see some of what you have and done.................each persons individual thoughts adds to Bigger achievements for all .......................look at the NASA control room this morning.......all those folk- each added their 'little bit' and 8 months later..........their is a vehicle landing on Mars to perfection..............amazing- no one would have achieved that on their own.

Dominic (Bro'Surfer)

surfcurls

Stoked to have Rc Surfing Friends / Members of RCSA that worked on NASA Curiosity !

YPC

That is 'just' - .............."Out of this World"

bearcave

Thanks for all the info and the pics YPC..... a picture can tell a thousand words at times.

I findtherudder arm an issue in the production boards if you make your own rudder as most arms production or mod arefiddly totighten or adjustin the little cavity.
I still run solid prop shafts with uni joints and like to clean out the tube and re-oil regularly.. my rudders are brass and not being bi fin have to come each time to get the shaft out and am always looking for a simple in/out rudder system.

Ive seenmany takes onrudder setups (single and bi-fin) but liked the simplicity of your one especially in a confined hatch setup... i'm thinkin on this one you use another nut under the rudder arm to secure it with the top nut without jambing up the movement of the shaft?

PS. I hear and agree on yourthoughtsregarding thestayers in thishobbie... And like NASA without everyones input big or small there is no advancement... Looking forward toNASA progresstoo damn thought rc surfing was out of the square but 8mths getting to their start point is fully out there!

PPS. In 1986or thereaboutsi saw a 'Tom Carroll Surfer" in amagazine. As a surfer i was intrigued at how he could get back up after a wipeout!..... didn't think much more about it for maybe 10yrs until people i knewin aboard shop reckon them kyosho carrols used to go ok.
A few years later learned abit aboutWombarra and kyosho.... bit later got myself a'radio waves' dvd.... brushlessmotor was affordable..... the esc's too.... lipo's are here and.....Nitro trucks and cars with less places to run em got me into an electric car.. and planes but they crash to easily for me... and...

Ok i'm dribblin now sorry..... Great thread and best i get back to the bearcave forthe otherhundred or so pages i haven't read.... yet

YPC

Another few bites.........................

Drive Shaft......- Most guys seem to go for the Flex shaft drive unit.

For myself - Wanting to keep the set up simple - inexpensive - and easily available - I have been running a solid 3.2mm drive shaft unit with good results.

The manufacturing process is quick and easy - Photos say most of it - the drive shaft bush is drilled with the many holes to reduce friction and to create lube dams around the shaft.

What is an ADVANTAGE with this set up -IMO - is that the 'only friction' area is within the 35mm of bush length - the rest of the shaft runs FREE within the bigger sized stuffing tube. - whereas- Most of the Flex shafts run in a Teflon tube or a snug fitting Stuffing tube - which has far more friction throughout the length of the shaft.

I add a oiling port at the lower end to oil the bush with a thick oil before every session - this ensures that the bush is well lubricated and forms a good seal.

Another point to be aware of is to ensure that there are NO DEFLECTION AREAS around the prop end that could deflect water BACK UP the drive shaft housing. Often the dog drive diameter or prop hub can be wider than the drive shaft housing tube - the water deflection against the face of the drive dog/prop hub will deflect water UP the drive shaft housing and INTO the 'water tight' compartment. Make sure that the water flows OVER the Prop without any DEFLECTION.

Dominic (Bro'Surfer)

MassiveOverkill

I'm also against flexshaft\teflon liner setups......too much maintenence and drag, I now make my own as well.

You can put a small flex tip at the end of a straight setup for easier motor alignment:



No need to solder either (well I do solder the flex tip so it lasts longer from grub-abuse). Permatex red works fine and is easily removeable using candle-heat. I've rebuilt a few simply by heating up the Permatex bond with a candle flame. All the materials including brass are readily available from Ace Hardware.

You do need to buy prop stubs (these can be made as well but are more of a PITA to do), though they're cheap at a couple bucks from OSE, including the flex cable.....one flex cable would give enough material to make 20 tips. You could also cannibalize your existing flex if you're sure you'll never re-use it.

Hughengland

Aloha from Hugh on Maui,

I am still here, but film work & a course in digital photography have kept me out of the water & custom rc building for several months now.
I missed the only serious south swell while filming on another Island. Maui has been sadly lacking the bigger waves that get me going!
Dom keep up the positive input on this forum.

Hugh

YPC

Hi Massiveoverkill........great info.....that set up is definitely a quality option.
With the flex end fitted - requiring the wider brass sleeve - you have to have a clear stuffing tube - How do you 'prevent' your lead teflon bushes from moving up the tube ?

Hey Hugh........where have 'you' been.......all work and no play........you need to sort your priorities out.............LOL
A digital camera course............that can only mean..........even 'better' rc surfing pics...............
Our Winter has, for the most of it so far, also been 'rather unpleasant'........seriously cold......stormy winds............fortunately the 'building' fills the gap.
Look forward to having you back, sharing some of your Rides and the Maui Crew's action packed pictures........take care.

Dominic (Bro'Surfer)

MassiveOverkill

YPC, the shaft rides in a brass stuffing tube. The brass coupler that connects the flex tip to the main hollow straight shaft is the same diameter as the prop stub.No lead bearings needed, although I'm sure they could be fitted. I'm also only running fresh water, no salt.


When I lubricate, I undo the grubs screw slather some lube on the shaft at the motor end, then slide the shaft assembly back, and the slather some lube on the prop shaft, and then reinsert. Takes about 1 minute and I only have to re lube every few days.

Is your solid shaft aluminum or steel?

YPC

Thanks M O K ........I see how you have it working...ie the stuffing tube is effectively also the bush, both top and bottom.

With the custom rc surfer the stuffing tube is epoxied in pretty 'good and solid' so the bush needs to be a separate 'replaceable' item.

I use either 3.2 mm Stainless Steel or Spring Steel.....the Stainless is less prone to corrosion.......and the Spring Steel has better rigidity..........both have worked well.
I do ensure that the rods are absolutely 'true' ( straight) before permanently setting everything in place.

I reckon a 3.2mm rod has a similar degree of 'flex' as a 'flex shaft' under torque would have. Some feel that 'because they are fitting a flex shaft, absolute 'alignment' is not all important- BUT- poor alignment can cause 'oscilation' along the flex shaft which will cause vibration and friction.

Dominic (Bro'Surfer)

MassiveOverkill

The brass tubing comes in sizes so that one will fit inside the other, so essentially you can have an outer brass tube that's epoxied in, and then a smaller tube inside that can act as a liner. When I cut my brass tubing, the tubing cutter creates just enough of a lip that acts as a stop for the inner brass tube. The lip is easily removeable simply by running a Philips head to widen the lip if you want. Your dog collar prevents the other end from coming out.

I initially bought some stainless rod for my straight shaft, but the brass tubing turned out to be strong enough and was much lighter. I have made a prototype carbon mainshaft, but I'll have to redo it as I had to make couplers since I didn't have the right diameter carbon rod. My next shaft will be carbon rod of the appropriate size. Great thing about carbon rod it's less prone to vibrations.

kitekook

MOK...

I like the idea of a DIY prop shaft.

We have always used SS shafts...so brass is stiff enough to do the job?

Are you using this setup with powerful motors/ high revs???

Has durability been an issue? I mean...has one just flew apart under load?

Very interesting idea, thanks for sharing.

kitekook

Forget that I am a RC Surfer for a moment...




Who has the right away in this situation?

Humanoid is closer to the peak...but is he in position to do anything with it? Or has he missed it altogether?


note: I did peel off ASAP...