Phantom,

If that were the case, first and second should be locked together. With the buggy off try spinning the big gear in the transmission back and forth. If it moves without the small gear moving, I would say that it is not locked in 2nd gear. Low end torque could easily be explained with tuning. You could try screwing the low speed and the high speed needle 1/8 turn clockwise and you should notice a jump in the low end.

Docphysics:

Will give that a try, won't be able to drive it much untill the weekend thow...

By low speed you meen the Idle udjusting screw, correct?? My idle is fine, won't turning that increase the idle and therefor make the car run all the time (clutch ingage) or does it also adjust the fuel at low end??

No, if the idle is good, DO NOT adjust that screw! Look where the throttle servo linkage connects to the carb. There is a screw that holds that barrel lever in place. That is the LOW SPEED NEEDLE. If you screw that in 1/8 turn, you can lean out the low end, giving you MAD ACCELERATION from a stopped position. Give that a shot.

I dont want to, but i need the money :P when I come back into rc it will be with big boy's toys i.e. 1/5th scale hehe.

Ryan.

Well my car's supposed to arrive tommorow, so I went the LHS and got some fuel, after run oil, and a fail safe. Now some questions about batteries:

1. Does it matter wheter you use rechargable Ni-MH, Ni-Cd, or alkaline batteries in the car and controller (I've seen some disagreement about this earlier in the thread)?

2. I'm seeing offers of a dozen Ni-MH batteries on ebay for $12-$15. Does anyone know if these batteries are any good?

pconcidi:

In my experience batteries are batteries, some will last longer (the expensive ones, Ni-MH, Energizer, ETC), some won't last as long (dollar store brand) but all will work in the car and radio. "BUT" (very important but) some Fail Safes require a specific type of battery so be sure to find out what kind you have, most rquire Ni-Cd's. I had to look to find one that could use Ni-MH battery's (my personal preference, as I have a 15 minute charger). Different types of batteries discharge at different rates and fail safes are designed to work with a specific types of batteries.

As for question #2 can't help you, buy my batteries at the big chain store....

Hope this helps.....

Hello all,
Really starting to get the hang of these buggies and upgrades. The money I have spent so far would of bought me a revo 3.3
but where's the fun in that.
FYI I just installed a S3305 fubata servo and it's beautiful, my buggy was sluggish turning because of the 2.2 wheels and tires I put on. The Same ones docphysics has in his avatar. Anyway the new servo has seriously improved my steering.
I also installed a 18T kyosho MP7.5 clutch bell and used the duratrax DTXC7134 clutch shoes. The buggy is quicker and handles so much better. I also installed a standard fubata S3003 for the throttle. Upgraded the shocks with smartrech aluminum which believe it or not are great. Excel hobby carries the Numbers are front 34037 and rear 34038.
I'm now waiting on a crankshaft and a flywheel for a O.S .18 CV-RX engine I plan on installing. I also ordered a duratrax nitro evader
tuned pipe.
I'm really enjoying this new hobby.


If anyone needs any detailed info on above parts and links to where I bought them just ask!!!

Just thought I share...
I will have pictures once the upgrade is complete.
I already took a before picture.....

Can't wait to run her on our track one's the upgrades complete. Ity's already suprised a few people with it's speed!!!

Alright! Nice job wayne! You are modding out the smartech to its limits! Yea, upgrading servos are a must!

Well my buggy arrived yesterday (Winner Sport off ebay) and here's my report so far:

I spent last night breaking it in by running 3 tanks of 20% nitro through it with the needle valve out about 4-5 turns. It started right up and seemed to idle smoothly. Today I took it out to a parking lot and let it go. I didn't have enough space to really let it rip but it has a great top speed (I can easily hear it shifting into second), and acceleration is good but not great. It got sluggish for a while until I turned the needle valve in, and it seemed to run best at only 1 1/2 turns out (is this normal?) I don't have a failsafe yet but it seemed to operate fine as far as I could let it go (about 100 yards).

Overall I think think the car is great, while there are a few parts that look a little cheap, overall it's a great car for a noob like myself, or anyone else who likes to tinker.

1 and 1/2 turns out is a little lean for a new engine. I would run a few more tanks through it at 2 turns out. Don't worry about the acceleration at this point. 100 yard range is fine for new batteries, but once your batteries start to wear out, that range will decrease, so be careful or one of these days it could take off on you.

3 days into my Smartech adventure and I've had my first break down. Does anyone have advice for where to get parts? Dinball is in Hong Kong apparently (shipping is outragous) and the email address on excelhobby's site doesn't even work so I'm afraid to buy from them. I need a rear drive shaft (dogbone) and a drive cup. Txs in advance.

pconcidi
welcome to the smartech family!!
Breakdowns will happen the key is trying to be one step ahead and have parts onhand!!

I use several vendors but the bulk of my parts I get from excel hobby. I too was a little nervous at first but after I got my
parts (about 7 days) I now don't hesitate. The are terrible with communication, the email address hasn't worked since I've joined.
Basically make sure you know what you want before you order and you'll have your parts in 7-10 days. They are fairly priced
in my opinion.
I also use Rcmart(dinball) , Raidentech (although, many items have been sold out for quite sometime now), RC World International
Inc(pricey but fairly quick shipping if you need something in a few days and cant wait the 7-10 days.

Shocks,servos,and clutch shoes should be upgraded.
As far as parts I have enough parts in my personal stock to completely rebuild the front end. I also have a backup .15cxp engine.
I'm in the process of upgrading to a O.S .18 CV_RX rotary carb, engine.
I've used the duratrax DTXC7134 clutch shoes and they seem to work great.
I've also done some other mods as you can see in my above post.

There is a lot of great info in this thread as well as the other smartech thread. People here are great and are always willing to help out.


Have fun!!!

Hi there guys i just baught a winner sport and was wondering if anyone can tell me of a brand that is 90% compatible with it. Also id like to know servos that are compatible with it ...it might be a stupid question, i dont know im new at rc nitro cars and just getting into it thanx for your time Brad

bradt369
From What I've found out in reading this thread as well as the other smartech thread there is no model that is 90% compatible.
However there are several that have certain parts that will work.
I'm also new but have learned a lot from this forum. These guys know what they are talking about.

As far as servos my opinion is the smartech stock ones are awful (others may disagree) I used a standard Futaba S3003 for the throttle and a Fubata S3005 (high torque with metal gears) I have 2.2 wheels and tires so I needed a servo with a Little more meat.
The S3005 is around 32.00 - 36.00 depending where you shop. Tower Hobbies is a good place (IMO) for non smartech parts.
Duratrax Nitro Evader has some compatible parts (again this is just my opinion.)
You should also thing about replacing your clutch shoes (smartech stock ones melt real quick).
I used the duratrax DTXC7134, they seem to be working fine (I had melted 2 sets of smartech clutch shoes previously).
Smartech shocks especially the front are terrible. Some here have used duratrax DTXC9001. I currently have them on the front.
Believe it or not I am using a smartech brand of shocks for the rear but the do not come stock with the buggy's.
I have also ordered a front set since the back seem to be working for me so far.
The stock numbers are smartech front# 34037 and rear # 34038 the are aluminum shocks. I have a local hard packed dirt track
that I've been going to and doing jumps and the shocks seem to holding up.

Keep checking back in these threads in fact go back and read both threads there is a ton of useful information in them. People here seem to be more then willing to answer questions.

Enjoy and have fun!!!

naturefreak:

Hi again, I was going to order some of these but the number you gave is for the clutch bell.... at least according to Tower Hobbies.

The two numbers I have for clutch shoes are DTXC7156 and DTXC7157. Is it one of those???

DTXC7157
Sorry my Bad. Dealing so many different vendors and part numbers sometimes gets a little mixed up.

I'm actually on my way to the track now.
I live up in the mountains of PA and it's a small track so weekdays the track is mostly empty.

Anyway good luck


Have fun Enjoy!!!

Nature freak....

the servos you spoke seem to be a great buy but i cant find them online ....model s3005 & s3003 by fubata, my local hobbie shop sels s3005 but he wants 75 bucks can plus taxs, and i feel like im getting ripped off ...get back to me pls thanx for the info by the way...Brad

bradt369

Just sent you a PM with the info you need.

Thanx for the info nature....i got them right away not expensive...thanx almost ready...lol

Your welcome, anytime I can help I will be more than happy to.

Trust me you'll notice the difference.
Many others suggest getting a different radio and receiver, however for me that will have to wait. I haven't run into any issues with the one that comes with it.


Have Fun!!!

i cant wait to take it out...itll be kick ass...ive already got the fail safe and ordered the servos you sugested me two s3305, but i should have ordered the suspetion parts at the same time i would have saved on shipping. Also i should have baught the failsafe onlin as well, its like 20 bucks cheeper oh well...live and learn eh...lol next time ill get a list together. Hey any one know if the make clutches out of carbon or somthing stronger than plastick ...im a motorcycle mechanic, and seems to me that plastic or even nilon would melt quit easily ...well get back to me guys..and thanx for your time ...Brad

Brad,

The duratrax shoes are made of teflon and you can get kyosho billited aluminum clutch shoes that will fit the buggy also.

Thanx man...cool. found that out by fishing online too but how mutch is normal for a price? i seen some for 7.49 us for the set of two but no springs and no clutch bell. can you use the same one? thanx 4 the time dudster.

Well, blew the rear I think its the main differential gear.
I ordered one last night from RC World International Inc. Pricey yes, but It will be here tomorrow.
I had installed the O.S. .18 CV-RX (11J rotary carb). Had finally gotten in the high performance tuned pipe, flywheel and
bearings I was waiting on. I' can't wait to get the rear fixed I can already tell this thing is going to scream.
I ordered a bunch of parts for the front and rear gear boxes. Figures all the parts I have in my inventory but none for the gear boxes. That is being corrected as I type this. I think I will now have everything covered for future break downs.
I'm also going to See about testing and modding some other Brand rears (duratrax, HPI traxass,...)
I've been looking real close at some of the parts and they look similar and may only need small modifications.
I'll keep everyone posted of any success I have .


Have fun, Enjoy!!!!

when ya gonna post some pics of the buggy with the OS .18 and the meaty 2.2" tires?