ingenuity
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
ingenuity, its why we have what we have today, many inventions where mistakes.
so, what is the most imaginative thing you have done to your r/c or anything else, either to save money or to improve something.
ive put ducted fans on esc's, ive used peices of 5 different servos to make one working one, ive made a rear steering system on a coustom made pan car, ive used packing foam to make air filters, ive shaped broken e clips to make smaller e-clips, ive used broken shirt hangers to make body posts, ive mounted a ESC out of the body to cool it. ive used series of silicone tubes to make the engine wisper quiet.
and just today i made a red grease, axl oil mix for my shocks, it works perfect!
so what is the most imaginative thing eh?
so, what is the most imaginative thing you have done to your r/c or anything else, either to save money or to improve something.
ive put ducted fans on esc's, ive used peices of 5 different servos to make one working one, ive made a rear steering system on a coustom made pan car, ive used packing foam to make air filters, ive shaped broken e clips to make smaller e-clips, ive used broken shirt hangers to make body posts, ive mounted a ESC out of the body to cool it. ive used series of silicone tubes to make the engine wisper quiet.
and just today i made a red grease, axl oil mix for my shocks, it works perfect!
so what is the most imaginative thing eh?
#2
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From: greendale,
IN
like this thread,,,i have to remember,,,ok, i cut a piece from chopping board to use it as engine mount..and i'm still using the chopping board though
#3
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From: , QC, CANADA
I'm working on a transportation case for my buggy! I want something that will include everything I need: “Portable Work Shop” and "Storage / Carrying Case” all in one. I used second hand material except for “fasteners” (pop-rivet/glue).
I will put tool box rail to make the car jack operate smooth and a rotary plate so I can rotate the buggy and I want to use a kind of Cleco system to hold the buggy on the plate for transportation and engine run! I will add a pipe to put the exhaust away, like real garage. The space on the 2 inch cover, I will put a black foam, carved to hold remote control, tools, spare parts and a bin area made with transparent plastic pills container. I will cover all the inside with black foam (if the buggy can fit in, I just made extension wheel hub and I put 2 double set of tires).
I build a compartment on the rear side of the box, between the wheel bins. I will probably use it like a battery pack area.
Still a lot of time to wait to finish the project. Finding the good thing to re-use is hard, but the harder is to get every tings before going to far!
“Measure twice cut once!”
I re-used garbage for the box and keep the money for the buggy!
See Yaa!
Frank_514
I will put tool box rail to make the car jack operate smooth and a rotary plate so I can rotate the buggy and I want to use a kind of Cleco system to hold the buggy on the plate for transportation and engine run! I will add a pipe to put the exhaust away, like real garage. The space on the 2 inch cover, I will put a black foam, carved to hold remote control, tools, spare parts and a bin area made with transparent plastic pills container. I will cover all the inside with black foam (if the buggy can fit in, I just made extension wheel hub and I put 2 double set of tires).
I build a compartment on the rear side of the box, between the wheel bins. I will probably use it like a battery pack area.
Still a lot of time to wait to finish the project. Finding the good thing to re-use is hard, but the harder is to get every tings before going to far!
“Measure twice cut once!”
I re-used garbage for the box and keep the money for the buggy!
See Yaa!
Frank_514
#4
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From: , QC, CANADA
To keep the electronic free of “Nitro Slime”, I open them and put Lectrostik Wax inside. I liquefy it with a heat gun and drop by drop I fill the electric part of the servo. until is full, screw back the cap will it get solid again.. Its melt at 175C and is keep a kind of elasticity / sticky when dry. Add “O” ring from the plumber store and Voila. . It WATER PROOF if you do it right.
Check my videos!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sIB6jLtTs0k
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1bFK-l0VQ4
See Yaa!
Frank_514
Check my videos!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sIB6jLtTs0k
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1bFK-l0VQ4
See Yaa!
Frank_514
#5
i lose body pins like no one's biz, so iv bent paper clips to make body pins.
used car heater hose to replace a cracked exhaust hose on my nitro sport.
used an old body to make snow-prooffing panels
used car heater hose to replace a cracked exhaust hose on my nitro sport.
used an old body to make snow-prooffing panels
#6
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From: , QC, CANADA
I made spike tires for my Hiroda buggy. Now I can go on ice and compact snow .
Its basically for the rear tires 3 row of 24 clip board pins, glued with cupper silicone ( I used the remaining silicone used to fix my real car). I have about 1/4 in long metal spike that go out of the tire. I decide to glue inside the foam to the internal wall with the pins heads, and I didn’t drill breading holes in the rim, I want to prevent over stretching of the tire at high rpm, with the quantity of spike inside , it’s a additional weigh of 32g per wheel. The front spike tire, with 2 doubles row of 22 pins for a total of 88 pins per tires.
Check the photos
Check my videos!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sIB6jLtTs0k
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1bFK-l0VQ4
See Yaa!
Frank_514
Its basically for the rear tires 3 row of 24 clip board pins, glued with cupper silicone ( I used the remaining silicone used to fix my real car). I have about 1/4 in long metal spike that go out of the tire. I decide to glue inside the foam to the internal wall with the pins heads, and I didn’t drill breading holes in the rim, I want to prevent over stretching of the tire at high rpm, with the quantity of spike inside , it’s a additional weigh of 32g per wheel. The front spike tire, with 2 doubles row of 22 pins for a total of 88 pins per tires.
Check the photos
Check my videos!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sIB6jLtTs0k
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1bFK-l0VQ4
See Yaa!
Frank_514
#7
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From: , QC, CANADA
I put a “V” shape rubber lips all around the buggy. it make a smooth oval shape, close the gap between the shell and the chassis, hide the “U” shape factory made for the exhaust. I flip the tune pipe ¼ turn to make the exhaust exit under the buggy. And I hold the exhaust with a peace of rubber tubing like a ring. I made shielded fuel line and a fuel cap “one finger lifter” extension (ideal for cold whether). I also put a ribbed black rubber hose on the pull knob, it put the knob easy to access when the shell in over.
See Yaa,
Frank_514
See Yaa,
Frank_514
#8
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From: , QC, CANADA
Talk about break/brake, I rebuild my brake pad with industrial rubber mat glued on the original metal plates. It was hard to make the breakin but now it stop on a dime, even wet.
See Yaa!
Frank_514
See Yaa!
Frank_514
#9
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From: , QC, CANADA
I made a bumper with scrap material.
I carved and cut the form with hand saw/ knife/file and bend the plastic with the help of a heat gun.
The first part of the bumper, the skid plate. I drill holes in the bottom plate of the buggy, bolted the plastic material, carved and bend in situ.
Then I bolt the 2nd part, the front guard, at he high and angle I want. I cut opening for the front wheels in all potential angle and overblown situation. Then I round up the corner and add 4 of 1 1/4" holes in the meddle . It make the bumper more light it reduce the rigidity of the original material and very useful to carry the buggy.
By using 2 part bumper, the skid plate part act as a shock absorber too. I hit trees, cement block , side walk a few time so hard that with out the bumper , it will be a total lost for the buggy. And if you do free ride in big opening, unbolt the front guard and ride with a thought skid plate only.
I didn't cut flush the bolts head and nuts of the skid plate. I worn it self on pavement and give nice night show!
Check the Video I Made:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sIB6jLtTs0k
If you want a bumper already build , check T-Bone-RC http://t-bone-rc.tripod.com/index.html
They do have a lot of bumper but no one like mine for now. I send them photos , they probably will make some soon.
See Yaa!
Frank_514
I carved and cut the form with hand saw/ knife/file and bend the plastic with the help of a heat gun.
The first part of the bumper, the skid plate. I drill holes in the bottom plate of the buggy, bolted the plastic material, carved and bend in situ.
Then I bolt the 2nd part, the front guard, at he high and angle I want. I cut opening for the front wheels in all potential angle and overblown situation. Then I round up the corner and add 4 of 1 1/4" holes in the meddle . It make the bumper more light it reduce the rigidity of the original material and very useful to carry the buggy.
By using 2 part bumper, the skid plate part act as a shock absorber too. I hit trees, cement block , side walk a few time so hard that with out the bumper , it will be a total lost for the buggy. And if you do free ride in big opening, unbolt the front guard and ride with a thought skid plate only.
I didn't cut flush the bolts head and nuts of the skid plate. I worn it self on pavement and give nice night show!
Check the Video I Made:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sIB6jLtTs0k
If you want a bumper already build , check T-Bone-RC http://t-bone-rc.tripod.com/index.html
They do have a lot of bumper but no one like mine for now. I send them photos , they probably will make some soon.
See Yaa!
Frank_514
#10
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From: , QC, CANADA
I used a used “BBQ meat” temp sensor (less than 6$ in big stores ) . I removed the temp probe from the stainless steel needle gauge. I put a heat shrink over the probe and installed it at the hotter spot on the engine body In a loop shape in the cooling fins of the engine. I program the gauge to 150C so it start to beep as a warning. Its instant temp reading only but I can ride with or without it as required.
See Yaa!
Frank_514
See Yaa!
Frank_514
#11
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From: , QC, CANADA
Hi, For those That want to know more about “Double wheel extension”
Go to your Hardware store (the biggest is the best, you will not have to run around the town.)
Bring your buggy hex hub with you.
In the pluming area try to find threaded union that will fit tight on the thread part of the hex hub. (the thread will not be the same but the first thread should engage.) When you have your union, go in the lamp area and get the full threaded extension tube that will fit the union thread. (the union thread is taper so its normal if you can not fully insert the tube in. While you there get the nuts that fit on the threaded tube (the original nut of the buggy will not be required any more.
At home , put red lock tight on the inside thread of the union and engage the tread of the hex hub into the union. (you can force “wedge” the to parts into each other with a vice). Be sure that the union and the hex hub flange are mating perfectly. Let it dry for the night. Cut the extension tube in half and drive it into the union as far as possible (do not forget to put the red lock tight before) Temporary use the nuts and lock 2 nuts to getter on the threaded extension to help tight the extension in to the union if required (so you will not damage the thread of the extension. Put the nuts you bought in to the inside wheel and screw the wheel on the threaded extension. (my tube is a little bigger than the wheel hole, so help it by applying pressure on the wheel , it will make is own thread path in the wheel hole and self center) . Put the other nut into the other wheel and drive it like the first wheel. If you did it right, you should only have to turn the outside wheel until the 2 tires rim mate. Apply reasonable torque. Use your feeling , you will never break the thread but you can distorted the wheels and it can break if you do not have full cover wheel.
Check the photo, and try to inspire your self with it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1bFK-l0VQ4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sIB6jLtTs0k
I do not put dimensions because all buggy have there own spec.
Take time to look and ask help to the hardware store employs for similar parts.
The original hex hub will not be usable after they will be wedge into the union, (its good to have spare one).
See Yaa!
Frank_514
Go to your Hardware store (the biggest is the best, you will not have to run around the town.)
Bring your buggy hex hub with you.
In the pluming area try to find threaded union that will fit tight on the thread part of the hex hub. (the thread will not be the same but the first thread should engage.) When you have your union, go in the lamp area and get the full threaded extension tube that will fit the union thread. (the union thread is taper so its normal if you can not fully insert the tube in. While you there get the nuts that fit on the threaded tube (the original nut of the buggy will not be required any more.
At home , put red lock tight on the inside thread of the union and engage the tread of the hex hub into the union. (you can force “wedge” the to parts into each other with a vice). Be sure that the union and the hex hub flange are mating perfectly. Let it dry for the night. Cut the extension tube in half and drive it into the union as far as possible (do not forget to put the red lock tight before) Temporary use the nuts and lock 2 nuts to getter on the threaded extension to help tight the extension in to the union if required (so you will not damage the thread of the extension. Put the nuts you bought in to the inside wheel and screw the wheel on the threaded extension. (my tube is a little bigger than the wheel hole, so help it by applying pressure on the wheel , it will make is own thread path in the wheel hole and self center) . Put the other nut into the other wheel and drive it like the first wheel. If you did it right, you should only have to turn the outside wheel until the 2 tires rim mate. Apply reasonable torque. Use your feeling , you will never break the thread but you can distorted the wheels and it can break if you do not have full cover wheel.
Check the photo, and try to inspire your self with it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1bFK-l0VQ4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sIB6jLtTs0k
I do not put dimensions because all buggy have there own spec.
Take time to look and ask help to the hardware store employs for similar parts.
The original hex hub will not be usable after they will be wedge into the union, (its good to have spare one).
See Yaa!
Frank_514
#13
Side by side packs would bend on a bad (read upside down) landing in my Rustler and my Super Rooster was too akward to mount in any of the usual locations, so I made this full length battery cover.


Servo ears broke a lot in my crawler and I wanted the servo on th center of the axle anyway so I made this mount.


Then there's the 4x4 Rustler.



Crappy little vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yEPxZkSPlyc


Servo ears broke a lot in my crawler and I wanted the servo on th center of the axle anyway so I made this mount.


Then there's the 4x4 Rustler.



Crappy little vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yEPxZkSPlyc






