It’s Jon again.. I just want to ask for help.. Thank you for the tip with WD-40. I got it to turn over! Unfortunately though I put the engine on and turned it over, ok but the engine didn’t start and it flooded because the fuse on the drill activated, it wouldn’t turn. I unflooded the engine and leaned out the lsn a little I know this is the way to solve because I have had the same problem before. I put igniter in and turned it over. Remember the crack? Well you said it would last forever … well the whole thing cracked rendering it unusable. I’m just extremely disappointed, I know the reponsibillity and all, I spent hours watching good tutorial videos from Alishanmao and other pros, reading as well. I follow step by step, every run something BREAKS! I’m sorry is it bad luck or something??? I don’t know, maybe if possible when you aren’t busy you could give me a call about this. If you could send me a new plate or something that’d be nice, I’ve spent so much money and time with this thing and it keeps breaking. And I am not running this thing hard, by anymeans. I don’t push full even only for a second. I bought a new engine! I know I might have screwed up the old one but honestly that was a tuning problem I was unaware of, maybe an air leak I left it at stock for the most part.

Could you help me out with this?

Thank you so much,

Jon

[This was an email I sent to himoto usa] if you can offer addittional help that would be apprecated.

Hi,

I am sorry your having so many problems.  Are you using a drill to start your engine or a starter wand.  If your using a drill and its flooded (hydrolocked) most likely it has cracked from the torque of the drill on the backplate.   I was able to get your old engine to start up with a new glow plug and some tuning so i think your having tuning issues.  The biggest part of this hobby is tweaking and always fooling with them.  What issues are you having besides the engine problems?

Eddie<br type="_moz"/>

himoto usa or himotoracingusa.com?

Well things are breaking! Also its a wand. Also I didn't put stress on this, I turned it over after I unflooded. I mean things just are breaking. I need a new plate now because its completely busted. I dont wanna spend more money though! It's not far from stock when it comes to tuning. Just Lsn adjustments.
I just wanna run this thing.
[]

EDIT: Himoto Racing USA, bought it from trendtimes which was horrible.

What things are breaking?

It seems everything related to the engine! Right now the drill plate. I've had tires, switches, engines and pull starts glow plugs/ignitors, dogbones break! I am good for now but I need a drill plate. I have taken it to the hobby shop at least 5 times. I haven't owned it for 6 months. I spent a month researching before I got it.

"things are breaking"?....like what?...drill starts dont always solve starting problems...if anything they can make them worse...if you keep trying to start a unproperly tuned rc with either a drill start or bump box you can knock the pinch out quick fast and in a hurry (trust me on this...I know from personal experience)

what kinda rc and what engine?....not always are the engines set were they will start new (trust me on this also...and yeah personal experience)....running a nitro is a learning curve....and beleive you me I still havent mastered it..

not sure you have done this...but screw your high speed needle all the way in (gently, dont tighten it when it bottoms out)...then turn it back out 2 1/2 turns....then screw in your low speed needle all the way (once again dont tighten it)....then back it out approx 2 3/4 turns....

once you got that done turn on the transmitter and the reciever....set your throttle trim to the center....then pull off the air filter and look down the throat of the carb...adjust it to 1mm opening....once adjusted apply brakes...the 1mm adjustment shouldt change....

this should get you running...then tune from there...

Most likely the backplate cracked from trying to start with the engine flooded, if it engaged the overheat sensor on the wand it was struggling to get it turned over. Flooding the engine is either from improper needle settings or from using too much fuel to prime it. The one way was from using the traxxas fuel with all that oil, it wreaks havoc on internal one ways but a little wd and it was solved. I checked the engine you sent in for return and i was able to get it started, needed a glow plug and the needles set. To break a some dogbones, and go thru some tires in 6 months isnt really that bad, replacing parts and repairing is part of this hobby bro. I own every brand of rc, you name it, i have it and they all, always need something fixed, tweaked or looked at.

OK I understand. But the drill plate is busted, wont turn at all. Not the flywheel I got that fixed by not using traxxas and putting wd-40 and engine was not flooded! It was later but plate cracked more before then. I will adust needles thanks firebird. But honestly, I spent alot of money and time on a new engine, I tried turning to stock on the old engine. I just need a pro, I dont have the touch but I am spending hours researching, I do know for the most part what I am doing. I just probablly need a new plate.

Its not tuning, I had it tuned. just a couple of days. My problem is the plate.

You said in your first post that the engine was flooded "I got it to turn over! Unfortunately though I put the engine on andturned it over, ok but the engine didn’t start and it flooded becausethe fuse on the drill activated, it wouldn’t turn. I unflooded theengine and leaned out the lsn a little"

Your best bet, since its broken in, its to set to 2 out on the high and 3 out on the low.  This should get you started, then you want to tune the high needle first then the low needle since the high needle controls the amount of fuel that goes into the carb from the fuel tank.  The low controls idle and to about 1/2 of the rpm's.

The high needle controls from 1/2 to full engine rpm's.  You want to have it where your getting full rpms at top speed but have some smoke coming from the pipe.

After you get the high speed adjusted, you want to fool with the low needle next, you should have crisp acceleration, a decent idle and no stalling when you accelerate hard.

Most of the times, the low needle doesn't need to be adjusted once its set but the high will need to be fooled with on almost every run, if the temperature is different or the humidity is different from the last time that you ran it.  If the elevation is different from where you were running it last time or even if the dew point is different.  Nitro fuel is very unforgiving. 

You will get the hang of it, it will take time, you can tell if your running to hot by the spit method, wipe some spit on the cooling head, if it sizzles off in 3 seconds or less, your too hot.  If it sits for more than 6 seconds, your too cool.

Also, you do adjustment in small increments, 1/8 of a turn at a time and try it out for a few passes before you re-adjust, it takes some time for the engine to adjust to the new settings.

You dont need a pro, you just need some patience.<br type="_moz"/>

Thanks but like I said my plate is busted in half! I can't even start the engine!

Can I buy a drill bit or something?

...JB Weld...its fixed many a thing for me...just make sure the only gobs are on the outside of the plate, and you should (should) be good to go till you can get it replaced

I have a solder. Not a welding gun. I also have gasket maker. Will any of these work?
It sux i busted my pull start trying to remove it.

jb weld is a liquid form... like glue.. but really GOOD....
check out the link it will show you what it looks like..
http://www.jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php
you can pick it up at almost ant auto parts store or hardware store...

But this will probablly cost more then$10 for a plate

Are you talking about the back plate? If so, how on earth did you bust the backplate in half?
I would like to see a picture of the "plate" your talking about.

Sure i will post a pic. And its the drill backplate

like I asked previously....what engine? what rc?

if you turn it over and you get fuel lock pull the glow blug out flip it upside down and then turn it over it will free itself up ..iv broken wands , backing plates , and the roto start itself from fuel lock ..its all part of the fun ..i have a 1000$ truck broke it hte day i got it i took out the front end its all part of the hobby lol..what car you have and engine

Himoto rapida pro sh.18

great engine have the same one in my python bro go to your local hobby store there is a hpi pull start that fits it ....i have hpi pull start on mine no problem i hate roto starts lol

you can mess up an engine quick fast and in a hurry with a roto start if you dont know what ur doin (I know from personal experience)....I smoked 2 engines I bet within 2 months, I know how much it sucks to keep spending money....this is why I preach to look an rc over and check EVERYTHING when you first get it...all this is part of the hobby...learning to tune is prolly the most pain in the a#* when it comes to nitro...patience patience...if you get all excited and skip stuff your going to spend alotta money

I've only been in rc for 1yr 7 months...and to figure how much money I've put in the hobby scares me..lol....I'm far from a super tuner, still learning myself...but I'm here to tell ya..iffin ya wanna learn the hobby the hard way it gets VERY expensive

a properly tuned and primed engine will start on 3 pulls or less

i love that engine with a pull start lol like i said i hate roto starts i got 3 of them downstairs