Nomadio_Sales

There is large misconceptions about 2.4GHz I have asked RC Car magazine to do a no holds barred blind product review of the four 2.4Ghz systems as you say let the product do the talking not 6 pages of advertising in magazines. I am also an end user and a racer just because I am a consultant does not turn my brain off.

SAVAGEJIM

I agree with you here, msouth12, I too want to see way more posts by actual end users of Nomandio. But in Karlton's defence, he did also say that he too is an end user, not just an employee. (Of course, I would love to get Nomadio systems at the same prices he pays )

Karlton, this is excellent! RC Car is one of the magazines I read and I look forward to the tests results. I personally believe that the Nomandio systems will come out ahead since they are designed from the ground up specifically for 2.4GHz technology where Spektrum is a JR radio adapted for 2.4GHz. Though the results might be little, even miniscule, I am still curious.

Nomadio_Sales

LOL I came in 6th at the ROAR US 1:5 scale Nats in BOTH GT and STC AND just in case you think I am biased beyond reason I used JR 9000 servos no discount from Horizon on those to be sure I buy my racing parts.

labrador

I am a left handed driver and use a Futaba 3PK - which can be configured mechanically for left handed ppl. Is it possible to do that on the Nomadio Sensor? (Every top radio should allow to do that). My 0.2(EUR)Cents worth: The features look quite convincing (well it doesn't replace the telemetry I am building - but comes quite near) - but the optical appearance..oh my...I hope it feels better than it looks. Ergonomics IS definitely an issue.

Regards

L.

bentgear

It is very easy to swap the Sensor to left handed use. Also the screen can be swiveled if needed to a different angle. It feels good in the hands, that weird angle is just about right.

Ed M.

ssspconcepts

Okay folks...I bought the Spektrum DX 3.0 and the telemetry combo kit. I am still not sure if I am entirely satisfied with it...the Nomadio probably would have been a better choice. At any rate, I'll hang on to this controller for a year or so since the investment has already been made. I know there are some mistakes in the telemetry instruction manual for the RPM sensor and roll out calculation so I will post what I found out:

For method A in the manual you are to measure how far the car moves in inches in 10 revolutions of the item being used to measure the rpm by the sensor (this would be the spur gear, flywheel, etc), then divide by 10 to compute the roll out. There is one step to add to that calculation however, you must convert the measurement in inches to feet. So for this method measure how far the car rolls in 10 revolutions of the spur gear, flywheel, etc, in inches, then divide that measurement by 120 (12 times 10). So if for instance the car rolls 43 inches in 10 revolutions, divide 43 by 120 to compute the roll out value to store in the handheld unit which would be .358 which would round up to .4 .



For method B, you first compute the circumference of the tire by measuring the diameter of the tire in inches and multply by pi (3.14), then divide that number by the internal gear ratio of the vehicle. Here again however this must be converted to feet. So as an example, say the diameter of the tire is 2.5 inches, if the internal gear ratio of the car is 1.83, multiply 2.5 by 3.14, then divide by 1.83 which comes out to 4.29, divide this number then by 12 to convert to feet and you get .3575, which again rounds up to .4 .

Another thing I learned is that the RPM sensor REALLY needs to be 1/8" away from the spur gear to work properly. Here is how I set up my telemetry package on my XXXT MF2:

ssspconcepts

I'll also throw this in...

Regarding the performance of the Spek 3.0....It seems to operate fine...especially with higher voltage battery packs. As most electric drivers, I use ESCs that have BEC and therefore the transceiver operates on the main battery pack. No problemo right? Well maybe...I've noticed that when I use my 7.2V batteries and brushed motors that the transceiver failsafe initiates "prematurely" and causes glitching...at least I think that is what's causing it because I have no problems when I use my higher voltage packs with a brushless setup. Other than that it works fine...I haven't noticed any latency problems...

Above I showed how I set up my telemetry pkg. Here is how I mounted the handheld telemetry unit to the Spek 3.0. I used industrial velcro...seems to hold fine.

ssspconcepts

Always looking for good ideas...

If anybody has pics of how they setup their Spek/telemetry (or Nomadio), I'd like to see pics. I am really curious how folks are feeling about the Nomadio...anybody have one?

edgarp

I recently purchased a Spektrum DX3.0 from Ebay. This is my first post here, so sorry if I should have started a new thread. I am a new Spektrum user, so I would like to know from other Spektrum users if what I am seeing is normal.

If the transmitter is close to the receiver I find the servos can sometimes glitch. As soon as I am a few meters away the glitching appears to stop and I have had no problems. Also this tends to be worse on new transmitter batteries or if the antenna of the car and the transmitter are in parallel.

It is sometimes a bit of a nuisance as if I get close to the car to retune the engine etc, it can open the throttle and jump away from me. That is even holding the transmitter away at arms length.

I can live with this but just wanted to know whether I should really be contacting the seller or whether this is normal for the Spektrum DX3.0.

(Also I read somewhere that placing a capacitor across the Receiver power input can help with the failsafe mode kicking in as mentioned above.)

Thanks,
Edgar.

Getrdone

Get yourself a power capacitor for the receiver like Novak's "glitch buster" and the failsafe will not come on prematurely. If you don't want to spend $12, you can make your own power capacitor using this guys ideas... http://www.stampedeproject.com/Traxx...when_to_use_it

ssspconcepts

Thanks for the information....

One question...this capacitor made by Novak...is it compatible with the Mamba Max?

P2gee

I have been using a Sensor since the pre production prototype offer. I can only speak for my right handed self, but the Sensor is easily one of the most comfortable radios I have ever owned. I find myself much more relaxed and comfortable at the end of 30 minute races compared to radios I previously used. Also, I will say that through software updates, my Sensor is a much better radio than when I bought it ( and it was really good out of the box ) with no additional cost to me.
I, like you , place a premium on radio comfort regardless of what the radio looks like. As far a comfort is concerned, not many are better than the Sensor.

IamDisaster

The power capacitor will help and work with any brand. In fact, if you knew what you were doing you could just pick up a power capacitor at any electrical supply store.

ssspconcepts

Well, I received my glitch buster yesterday and tried it out...it worked great...even with my lower than 3300NiMH battery packs and high performance motors. I put one of my kid's 3000NiMH batteries in my XXXT with a 9T motor and it worked. Thanks again.

ssspconcepts

Thought I would post some pics of my Emaxx project that I just finished. I installed the spek w/telemetry. Next project will be to try and installed the telemetry and rpm sensor on my RC18T.

ssspconcepts

More pics of my emaxx w/spek telemetry

sapper ion

we have those cars they have a few diff freqs that they switch through plus they have a special tx/rx to get over our freq jammers much like our radios

Iban

The same happens to my DX3.0, Edgar.
Exactly the way you've described it. Once i turn on the transmitter and the receiver, it works ok for about 20-30 seconds, and then the servos start glitching and the receiver led flashes all the time. As soon as I move away from the car with the transmitter it stops and everything works fine.
If I get closer the problem starts again.

I have another problem. This time I think that one of the receivers (SR3000) I got with the DX3.0 is not working correctly (the other one doesn't have this problem).
After some time racing the car, suddenly, I loose control of it and the servos remain in whichever position they were (full throttle, brake, turning, etc). The failsafe does not actuate. The batteries of transmitter and receiver are always ok. I turn off and on the receiver and it works fine again, but not for a long time. It feels like the receiver overheats or something and gets blocked somehow. It costed a huge crash with my hyper 8 at the end of the straight in a local race. Luckily nothing broke. (I still don't understand how...)

Has anyone experienced something similar??

Thanks

Iban

Mindless_Chaos

If you don't need telemetry, then the DX2/3 is fine. There is nothing wrong with it.

Why do you need more then 3 model memory's? I only use one.

If you want a good radio that you will have little to no trouble with, and you want it for a good price, get a DX2/3. No crystals. Real easy to set. It never glitches. No radio interference.

I have had mine for a while and I find that anything more is just be cause you want excess.

I Run an RC10GT with my DX2, and my RC10GT is hopped up as much as possible. I don't need anything more. So whats wrong with a DX2/3???

NOTHING.

I'd rather spend the extra cash on the model its self for performance.

Mindless_Chaos

I have only seen this when my receiver battery is low. If there was any drawback to the DX2/3 is that the receiver sucks juice. I use a rechargeable 7.4v Li battery because I can recharge it and it lasts a long time.

I haven't had a problem like that unless I went a long time without charging and the battery was low.

OH! There was also one other instance where I had a problem like that. It seemed like when I got close there was a problem, but it wasn't. I was baffled.

Upon inspecting, one of the zip ties I used to secure the wire that connects the receiver and battery had set against the engine, and it melted the wire cover, and was causing shorts. When I picked it up it made it short, and thats when it seemed like it did it when i was close. If you use a switch, check or change it and check your battery wire.

edgarp

Just letting you know I never found a fix for this Iban. I have just learnt to live with this.

I bought a helicopter and DX7 radio, and with the DX7 I get none of these problems. I have heard of others having this problem with the DX3.0 also.