Hello,
Does someone know of a cheap replacement for the 25fx needle valve assembly?

Thanks,
Rick

Do you need just the Hi-speed Needle valve or do you need the Backplate and the Needle valve holder?

Just the valve. I cut them off the backplate.

Rick

I have extra needle valves. Give me a PM and we can talk, How many you need, price etc.

I need the holder to.

Thanks,
Rick

This is what I do on both my Open B combat planes and my Q-25 pylon racers. I use this aftermarket OS needlevalve:


http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCR48&P=ML

And then I attach it to the airplane using a large landing gear strap. One end holds the assembly and the other hole is attached to an engine lug. If you need a 90 deg angle on the attachment, you can use a control horn.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXDMG5&P=ML#

So far I have had excellent success with this method.

Great idea, I seem to lose them after they break off the cover plate, even though I attach them to the firewall, either in a mid-air or after one (slamming into the ground) and at $24 for the valve and cover plate it gets expensive. Out of the ten 25 FX's that I fly most valve assemblies have broke off the cover plate, which seems very normal in combat. I take it that you put the fuel supply line up and over the threaded portion and that keeps it there? I like you're mounting system too. We still fly 2610 and of course Open-B. I was just getting set to order a couple complete valve assemblies....now I'm going the way you described ...thanks............combat season has begun........[sm=shades_smile.gif]

Medium black neoprene fuel tubing (DuBro) will hold on to the threads without slipping off. Silicone will slip off however, SO, the most common way that I fix it is to wrap a small piece of copper wire around the straight tube on the needle valve body and then carefully solder it on creating a "nipple" for the tubing to hold on to. Just one wrap. The "nipple" must be small so that the jam nut can still fit over it. File it down carefully, if you made it too big. Although I have not tried it, it might be possible to solder a muffler pressure tap nipple on to the end, or "flare" the tube slightly, but the caveat about being able to put the jam nut on still applies. That why I just use the neoprene, I put the straight tube of the needle body going to the carb nipple and use the "nippled" part of the body going to the actual fuel tank. That way, I don't have to keep removing the fuel line from the straight part.

I hope this is helpful.

It works great, just had an opportunity to test it. I used the black tube over the threaded part (which fits nice and tight) and then to the carb, the nippled end to tank.Thanks again for the info, saved me $30 for 2 engines. I used a throttle arm (a buddy made some out of aluminum for replacements for the plastic stock ones) which happens to fit perfect and is bendable for a good angle to adjust the needle as needed.

Excellent, I'm happy to have been able to help. That's what modeling is all about. And now for the obligatory, good natured smack talk... OK, ya got no more excuses, get out there and fight like a man. There's lots of combat events in your area. Show 'em what you're made of and go out and shred some streamers!!!

Oh I do...we have 4-5 meets here a year, our first one was 2 weeks ago. I have 9 combat planes to keep maintained (2610 scale and open-b)...I seem to need plenty of back up since I have my fair share of mid-airs .I've been flying combat for the last 7 years and have flown 100's of rounds....can't get enough of it, it's in my opinion the funnest RC competition there is...we do "club" combat in between meets....[8D]