The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
#676
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
yep, it's that simple. i actually never even had to do that, i just learned how to eyeball it, but i'm weird that way. do you have an lvc? dont want to puff that lipo on your first charge. if anything, that robinson spur will take more to strip it. the stock spurs all have a slight wobble which makes them strip easily.
#677
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
my evader is up and moving lol, i got a chager and a venum 7cell 4200 battery. i got a traxxas 23 pinon gear and a 76 spur gear that did not work out. so far i like the truck i have to set the sliper clutch i heard what sounded like the motor spun lose from the spur gear. i checked the mesh it was fine there is no damage teeth to the spur gear. was this just the slipper set to loose?
#679
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
ORIGINAL: DieHard1945
I just went out and bought the Vemon Pro charger and Venom 5000mah 35C 11.1v battery! I got it charged, put it in the evader, thought I had the gear mesh set right, I instintly strip my spur. Got the wheels turning and the tires ballooned like 6 inches! crzy. Lipo is awesome. I was going to the get a robinson racing 72T 48P stealth pro spur. Will this strip easy? How to you properly set the gear mesh. Hobbyshop guy told me to fold a piece of ordinary paper in half so it's twice as thick as when you started, put it between the pinion and spur, press the pinion up against the spur with the paper between, tighten the motor screws, and remove the paper. Is this right?
I just went out and bought the Vemon Pro charger and Venom 5000mah 35C 11.1v battery! I got it charged, put it in the evader, thought I had the gear mesh set right, I instintly strip my spur. Got the wheels turning and the tires ballooned like 6 inches! crzy. Lipo is awesome. I was going to the get a robinson racing 72T 48P stealth pro spur. Will this strip easy? How to you properly set the gear mesh. Hobbyshop guy told me to fold a piece of ordinary paper in half so it's twice as thick as when you started, put it between the pinion and spur, press the pinion up against the spur with the paper between, tighten the motor screws, and remove the paper. Is this right?
What kind of surface are you running on? And what tires are you running? Also, what motor?
I'm running a 4300kv EZrun "small block", and on 2S, I rarely get above half throttle unless I'm doing a straight-line speed run, topping out near 40mph. Icannot imagine running a 3S in it. It'd be uncontrolable. Now maybe if Ihad a 3000kv motor and geared it a little differently, Icould run a 3s on dirt. Ialso wonder how the ol' DTX tranny/diff will hold up to 3s bashing........
#680
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Hey. I was on an overnight camp up in greenville. I just got out of the shower and clean feels good!I run on a the driveway a bit and in the yard. Will be racing dirt soon at battlefront. I have the pro-line dirt works. (Wish I had trenchers) I have the Traxxas Velenion 3S esc and 3500kv motor. Maybe folding the paper in half is too much space and thats why I stripped the spur. dang it!!!Haven't acually bashed with 3S yet. I did run the tires up to speed even with spur stripped. At half throttle the wheels ballooned so big I stopped because I didn't want them to seperate from the wheels. I got alot of power on my hands!!!
ORIGINAL: EXT2Rob
Ihadn't heard of "folding it in half". I'd been told just a single thickness. The RR spur should be much tougher.
What kind of surface are you running on? And what tires are you running? Also, what motor?
I'm running a 4300kv EZrun "small block", and on 2S, I rarely get above half throttle unless I'm doing a straight-line speed run, topping out near 40mph. Icannot imagine running a 3S in it. It'd be uncontrolable. Now maybe if Ihad a 3000kv motor and geared it a little differently, Icould run a 3s on dirt. Ialso wonder how the ol' DTX tranny/diff will hold up to 3s bashing........
ORIGINAL: DieHard1945
I just went out and bought the Vemon Pro charger and Venom 5000mah 35C 11.1v battery! I got it charged, put it in the evader, thought I had the gear mesh set right, I instintly strip my spur. Got the wheels turning and the tires ballooned like 6 inches! crzy. Lipo is awesome. I was going to the get a robinson racing 72T 48P stealth pro spur. Will this strip easy? How to you properly set the gear mesh. Hobbyshop guy told me to fold a piece of ordinary paper in half so it's twice as thick as when you started, put it between the pinion and spur, press the pinion up against the spur with the paper between, tighten the motor screws, and remove the paper. Is this right?
I just went out and bought the Vemon Pro charger and Venom 5000mah 35C 11.1v battery! I got it charged, put it in the evader, thought I had the gear mesh set right, I instintly strip my spur. Got the wheels turning and the tires ballooned like 6 inches! crzy. Lipo is awesome. I was going to the get a robinson racing 72T 48P stealth pro spur. Will this strip easy? How to you properly set the gear mesh. Hobbyshop guy told me to fold a piece of ordinary paper in half so it's twice as thick as when you started, put it between the pinion and spur, press the pinion up against the spur with the paper between, tighten the motor screws, and remove the paper. Is this right?
What kind of surface are you running on? And what tires are you running? Also, what motor?
I'm running a 4300kv EZrun "small block", and on 2S, I rarely get above half throttle unless I'm doing a straight-line speed run, topping out near 40mph. Icannot imagine running a 3S in it. It'd be uncontrolable. Now maybe if Ihad a 3000kv motor and geared it a little differently, Icould run a 3s on dirt. Ialso wonder how the ol' DTX tranny/diff will hold up to 3s bashing........
#681
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
That's great. Glad you have had good luck. My "FrankenVader" has done pretty well. Call it that bc of the ASC Tranny/Ball Diff. It's been a hoot onlipo.
Ihope you got mymessage on the dogbone spring pins. Mine worked outgreat. Wish DTX would get their supply line straightthough. Iguess the workers in China are gettingtired of being used for slave labor so we can run our RC toys!.
Regards
NTR
Ihope you got mymessage on the dogbone spring pins. Mine worked outgreat. Wish DTX would get their supply line straightthough. Iguess the workers in China are gettingtired of being used for slave labor so we can run our RC toys!.
Regards
NTR
ORIGINAL: EXT2Rob
check and tighten all screws.....open tranny (and diff) and add grease, they never put in enough....dump the shock fluid and put in 35wt.....get new tires and wheels if you're going off road....oh, and make DANG sure the bottom cap on the plastic shocks (where the shaft comes out) is tight, use blue loctite if you have to. If that sucker comes loose, it'll break the threads off and then you need new shocks.
NTR - Way back up there somewhere, you asked how my tranny was holding up....it's doing great! It's sort of a ******* child, not stock, but not full BL either. I converted the slipper to an Associated-type, but I'm using the stock EXT2 top shaft/gear. And I installed the BL metal diff. My other Evader tranny is still bone stock, tho I'm waiting on a metal diff for it. Ordered it in FEBRUARY and STILL WAITING!!!
check and tighten all screws.....open tranny (and diff) and add grease, they never put in enough....dump the shock fluid and put in 35wt.....get new tires and wheels if you're going off road....oh, and make DANG sure the bottom cap on the plastic shocks (where the shaft comes out) is tight, use blue loctite if you have to. If that sucker comes loose, it'll break the threads off and then you need new shocks.
NTR - Way back up there somewhere, you asked how my tranny was holding up....it's doing great! It's sort of a ******* child, not stock, but not full BL either. I converted the slipper to an Associated-type, but I'm using the stock EXT2 top shaft/gear. And I installed the BL metal diff. My other Evader tranny is still bone stock, tho I'm waiting on a metal diff for it. Ordered it in FEBRUARY and STILL WAITING!!!
#682
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
one of the screws that hold the gear case cover was loost. there is 2 little black screws i lost the bottom one its on there and does not look there will be a issue is this ok? i know somtimes its hard to get those little screws. oh yea can some one post a link to a spur gear that willl work with our evaders the one i got was to small.
#683
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
I'mgetting this today. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Robinson-Rac...item53e45ce0b8 I think tower sells it. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEY28&P=7 This looks good. But if your running 20t pinions or smaller, you might want to get the 90T. I have an 88T spur and it's too small to run anything less than 19T pinion. Also guys, my top shaft is severly bent. I can't find anybody online or at hobby shops that have them. I do have a 20 ton press and some flat pieces of metal and also a vice. should I try bending it straight? or would that make it weak and possibly screw it up more? If anybody out there knows where I can get an Evader ST top shaft (any price) plz post.
#685
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Yes. Smaller spur more top speed. Bigger more torque. Bigger pinion more top speed. Smaller pinion less speed but more torque.
#686
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
ORIGINAL: DieHard1945
I'mgetting this today. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Robinson-Rac...item53e45ce0b8 I think tower sells it. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEY28&P=7 This looks good. But if your running 20t pinions or smaller, you might want to get the 90T. I have an 88T spur and it's too small to run anything less than 19T pinion. Also guys, my top shaft is severly bent. I can't find anybody online or at hobby shops that have them. I do have a 20 ton press and some flat pieces of metal and also a vice. should I try bending it straight? or would that make it weak and possibly screw it up more? If anybody out there knows where I can get an Evader ST top shaft (any price) plz post.
I'mgetting this today. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Robinson-Rac...item53e45ce0b8 I think tower sells it. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEY28&P=7 This looks good. But if your running 20t pinions or smaller, you might want to get the 90T. I have an 88T spur and it's too small to run anything less than 19T pinion. Also guys, my top shaft is severly bent. I can't find anybody online or at hobby shops that have them. I do have a 20 ton press and some flat pieces of metal and also a vice. should I try bending it straight? or would that make it weak and possibly screw it up more? If anybody out there knows where I can get an Evader ST top shaft (any price) plz post.
#687
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
ORIGINAL: joehervey1984
one of the screws that hold the gear case cover was loost. there is 2 little black screws i lost the bottom one its on there and does not look there will be a issue is this ok? i know somtimes its hard to get those little screws. oh yea can some one post a link to a spur gear that willl work with our evaders the one i got was to small.
one of the screws that hold the gear case cover was loost. there is 2 little black screws i lost the bottom one its on there and does not look there will be a issue is this ok? i know somtimes its hard to get those little screws. oh yea can some one post a link to a spur gear that willl work with our evaders the one i got was to small.
#688
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
ORIGINAL: DieHard1945
Also guys, my top shaft is severly bent. I can't find anybody online or at hobby shops that have them. I do have a 20 ton press and some flat pieces of metal and also a vice. should I try bending it straight? or would that make it weak and possibly screw it up more? If anybody out there knows where I can get an Evader ST top shaft (any price) plz post.
Also guys, my top shaft is severly bent. I can't find anybody online or at hobby shops that have them. I do have a 20 ton press and some flat pieces of metal and also a vice. should I try bending it straight? or would that make it weak and possibly screw it up more? If anybody out there knows where I can get an Evader ST top shaft (any price) plz post.
#689
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Well I haven't acually run 3S through it yet. It was bent a little while ago,I wasjust too lazy to go fix it. I have the 3S lipo battery and I fully charged it. I'm now just waiting for my robinson racing spur to show up.
ORIGINAL: EXT2Rob
And you're running 3S? Hmm...wonder why your top shaft got bent? Jus' kidding. You could try straightening the top shaft, but if you work it too much, it could weaken the metal at the bend, and then it could snap at that point when you go full throttle on 3S!!
ORIGINAL: DieHard1945
Also guys, my top shaft is severly bent. I can't find anybody online or at hobby shops that have them. I do have a 20 ton press and some flat pieces of metal and also a vice. should I try bending it straight? or would that make it weak and possibly screw it up more? If anybody out there knows where I can get an Evader ST top shaft (any price) plz post.
Also guys, my top shaft is severly bent. I can't find anybody online or at hobby shops that have them. I do have a 20 ton press and some flat pieces of metal and also a vice. should I try bending it straight? or would that make it weak and possibly screw it up more? If anybody out there knows where I can get an Evader ST top shaft (any price) plz post.
#690
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Finally finshed school!!!!! So what'd everyone do over the weekend. I went to an overnight camp. Was really tired this morning. And I broke my wrist yesterday so I'm typing this with only my right hand. I flipped over the skateboard. [:@] curse you stupid pebble!!! So I haven't acually had it looked at, mom (who was in the medical field) pretty much confirmed that it is broken. She is really into the saving money thing, so right now I'm running on pain killer. It's not wrapped either because she didn't have any wrapping. I guess I'm just supposed to wait for it to heal. She says there is nothing else she or anyone can do. What's cool though (and painful) is I can pop my wrist back and forth. Mom doesn't wnat me doing that, but I do anyways to scare my friends.
#693
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
So it looks like you guys are the evader experts. I just got an evader st(used of course), charged some batts I had(nimh), truck runs afew mins then shutsdown. The esc is blinking red then green and crazy hot to the touch. Well the problem is the former owner had a 11t rush motor on it. I've read that the stock esc likes 20t-27t motors, possibly 19t's. So my ? is what is a good balance of $$, speed, and power? Also this is only my 2nd ground vehicle. Thanks
#694
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Sounds like either your esc is torched or theres a bad connection between the motor and esc. Also the battery might be bad. better check. I recently upgraded from stock esc. (as you'll see I too have an evader st. If you look under my gallery at some of my pics, you'll notice I have the Traxxas 3s esc and 3500kv motor) If you find that your esc is toast, then I recommend you get an esc and motor from castle creations and run 2S. The first move you want to make is get rid of NiMh. I had NiMh for like 3 years and just got my first lipo last Friday. Believe me, lipo is lighter, stronger, faster, and overall, way better. I am running I think an 8T in my st with the evader brushless diff. and wheely bar. It's amazing! So I guess go ahead and run it till it shuts down again, and check the temp of the esc. If it's over 160 degrees, then it's probably toast. On to the motor, what are you running for the motor?
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
ORIGINAL: DieHard1945
Sounds like either your esc is torched or theres a bad connection between the motor and esc. Also the battery might be bad. better check. I recently upgraded from stock esc. (as you'll see I too have an evader st. If you look under my gallery at some of my pics, you'll notice I have the Traxxas 3s esc and 3500kv motor) If you find that your esc is toast, then I recommend you get an esc and motor from castle creations and run 2S. The first move you want to make is get rid of NiMh. I had NiMh for like 3 years and just got my first lipo last Friday. Believe me, lipo is lighter, stronger, faster, and overall, way better. I am running I think an 8T in my st with the evader brushless diff. and wheely bar. It's amazing! So I guess go ahead and run it till it shuts down again, and check the temp of the esc. If it's over 160 degrees, then it's probably toast. On to the motor, what are you running for the motor?
Sounds like either your esc is torched or theres a bad connection between the motor and esc. Also the battery might be bad. better check. I recently upgraded from stock esc. (as you'll see I too have an evader st. If you look under my gallery at some of my pics, you'll notice I have the Traxxas 3s esc and 3500kv motor) If you find that your esc is toast, then I recommend you get an esc and motor from castle creations and run 2S. The first move you want to make is get rid of NiMh. I had NiMh for like 3 years and just got my first lipo last Friday. Believe me, lipo is lighter, stronger, faster, and overall, way better. I am running I think an 8T in my st with the evader brushless diff. and wheely bar. It's amazing! So I guess go ahead and run it till it shuts down again, and check the temp of the esc. If it's over 160 degrees, then it's probably toast. On to the motor, what are you running for the motor?
The esc temp was about 130-140F, The motor is an 11t Rush by Orion which I think is the cause of the problem.
#696
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Then you should probably get a new brushless motor and esc from castle creations. I think your esc is toast anyways, and the stock esc are so crappy. I suggest you buy the motor and esc as a package so you know for sure that the esc can handle the motor.
#699
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Eh....not necessarily..... If the ESC is getting hot, it could be over-temp'ing and going into thermal shutdown. See if you can get your hands on a 20T motor and see if the ESC still behaves that way. Might also want to get a infrared thermometer. Makes monitoring motor/ESC temps easy.
As for HAVING to upgrade the tranny/diff when going brushless, the answer is....maybe. Reason being is that it depends on where and how you drive. And how much. And how crazy you go with the brushless setup you choose. Look at it this way: if you put a mild brushless setup in the car, the strain on the drivetrain won't be that heavy. But if you go and drop a 1/8-scale buggy motor in there, it'd be like putting a V8 in a volkswagen....with the original tranny.....it'll blow it apart. Or at least strip the plastic diff gear in a hurry. I'm running an EZrun 35A ESC / 4300kv motor system on 2S LiPo with a 88T spur and 19T pinion. Has PLENTY of speed for me. But I still occasionally strip a tooth or two off the diff. But it takes a good deal of running before that happens. And I run almost every day. I have the all-metal brushless diff in my other 'vader and that tranny is bullet-proof. The new diff will cost you $18 and should drop right in to your tranny case. The only issue with that diff is that the very first thing you need to do is dump the fluid, clean it all out with solvent, then reassemble it using LokTite on all the screws, then let it sit and cure OVERNIGHT before you put it in your car and use it. If those screws come loose, the internal diff gears will loose mesh and quickly destroy themselves. For bashing, I don't think using various diff fluids is worth the pain, so I use TracPower Gear Grease. Really good stuff.
As for HAVING to upgrade the tranny/diff when going brushless, the answer is....maybe. Reason being is that it depends on where and how you drive. And how much. And how crazy you go with the brushless setup you choose. Look at it this way: if you put a mild brushless setup in the car, the strain on the drivetrain won't be that heavy. But if you go and drop a 1/8-scale buggy motor in there, it'd be like putting a V8 in a volkswagen....with the original tranny.....it'll blow it apart. Or at least strip the plastic diff gear in a hurry. I'm running an EZrun 35A ESC / 4300kv motor system on 2S LiPo with a 88T spur and 19T pinion. Has PLENTY of speed for me. But I still occasionally strip a tooth or two off the diff. But it takes a good deal of running before that happens. And I run almost every day. I have the all-metal brushless diff in my other 'vader and that tranny is bullet-proof. The new diff will cost you $18 and should drop right in to your tranny case. The only issue with that diff is that the very first thing you need to do is dump the fluid, clean it all out with solvent, then reassemble it using LokTite on all the screws, then let it sit and cure OVERNIGHT before you put it in your car and use it. If those screws come loose, the internal diff gears will loose mesh and quickly destroy themselves. For bashing, I don't think using various diff fluids is worth the pain, so I use TracPower Gear Grease. Really good stuff.
#700
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RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
I do have a IR temp gun esc was about 130-140f on the heatsink, motor was 80-90f. I'm looking at grabbing a 20T motor just dont know which one. Whats the part# on that all-metal diff? I will be running the truck in grass mostly.