The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
#2451
Welcome to the boards. TBone bumpers are the way to go. They are tough and will save you a lot of broken suspension arms. Plus they have a lifetime warranty. Break one and all you have to do is send them a photo of the broken part and they ship you a replacement. https://tboneracing.net/Evader-EXT-E...-Pro_c_66.html
#2453
#2454
#2455
#2456
Oh, and welcome to RCU.
When checking out parts, I download both/all the manuals/parts lists for the Evaders. Makes for easier comparison of the part #s.
I'm glad to hear another Duratrax user is alive and well. The Evader parts supply is still good for the old platform. A lot to be had to keep the platforms up and running...last time I checked anyway .
When checking out parts, I download both/all the manuals/parts lists for the Evaders. Makes for easier comparison of the part #s.
I'm glad to hear another Duratrax user is alive and well. The Evader parts supply is still good for the old platform. A lot to be had to keep the platforms up and running...last time I checked anyway .
#2457
Oh, and welcome to RCU.
When checking out parts, I download both/all the manuals/parts lists for the Evaders. Makes for easier comparison of the part #s.
I'm glad to hear another Duratrax user is alive and well. The Evader parts supply is still good for the old platform. A lot to be had to keep the platforms up and running...last time I checked anyway .
When checking out parts, I download both/all the manuals/parts lists for the Evaders. Makes for easier comparison of the part #s.
I'm glad to hear another Duratrax user is alive and well. The Evader parts supply is still good for the old platform. A lot to be had to keep the platforms up and running...last time I checked anyway .
#2458
#2460
EXT2 looking good with fresh rubber . That taller tire was my concern as well. The only tires I can think of ...another pair of Gladiators! They will pretty much last years before needing replaced. That is of course if running off-road. The size of Pro-Line Gladiators is quite a bit taller, as you found out, than normal stadium truck tires. You will also gain a bit more bite when using the Gladiators up front.
#2461
#2462
EXT2 looking good with fresh rubber . That taller tire was my concern as well. The only tires I can think of ...another pair of Gladiators! They will pretty much last years before needing replaced. That is of course if running off-road. The size of Pro-Line Gladiators is quite a bit taller, as you found out, than normal stadium truck tires. You will also gain a bit more bite when using the Gladiators up front.
#2463
#2464
I looked closer at your photos.
Are you using stock Duratrax wheels for your Gladiators?
I ask this because I've found (as well as most other power hungry users) the wheels to be just...okay. I don't know what type of power plant you have, i.e., motor, and battery, but the stock Evader ST/EXT wheels are not the best. If you are running a mild motor on 2S/6cell NiMh power, then the wheels will hold up just fine. I'm not trying to scare you. I'm just saying to make sure you have your rear wheels properly seated, and your (EXT) nuts are secure . If you find the rear wheel nuts to be loosing grip after every run...it's time to get new locking nuts... quick!
Are you using stock Duratrax wheels for your Gladiators?
I ask this because I've found (as well as most other power hungry users) the wheels to be just...okay. I don't know what type of power plant you have, i.e., motor, and battery, but the stock Evader ST/EXT wheels are not the best. If you are running a mild motor on 2S/6cell NiMh power, then the wheels will hold up just fine. I'm not trying to scare you. I'm just saying to make sure you have your rear wheels properly seated, and your (EXT) nuts are secure . If you find the rear wheel nuts to be loosing grip after every run...it's time to get new locking nuts... quick!
#2465
I looked closer at your photos.
Are you using stock Duratrax wheels for your Gladiators?
I ask this because I've found (as well as most other power hungry users) the wheels to be just...okay. I don't know what type of power plant you have, i.e., motor, and battery, but the stock Evader ST/EXT wheels are not the best. If you are running a mild motor on 2S/6cell NiMh power, then the wheels will hold up just fine. I'm not trying to scare you. I'm just saying to make sure you have your rear wheels properly seated, and your (EXT) nuts are secure . If you find the rear wheel nuts to be loosing grip after every run...it's time to get new locking nuts... quick!
Are you using stock Duratrax wheels for your Gladiators?
I ask this because I've found (as well as most other power hungry users) the wheels to be just...okay. I don't know what type of power plant you have, i.e., motor, and battery, but the stock Evader ST/EXT wheels are not the best. If you are running a mild motor on 2S/6cell NiMh power, then the wheels will hold up just fine. I'm not trying to scare you. I'm just saying to make sure you have your rear wheels properly seated, and your (EXT) nuts are secure . If you find the rear wheel nuts to be loosing grip after every run...it's time to get new locking nuts... quick!
#2467
Hey, at least the spur gear was all that stripped. Receipt paper (the thinner laser printed stuff at gas pumps/stores/super markets) is what I use to get an optimum mesh between the pinion and spur gears. Great fitting drivers help get motor screws tight enough to prevent motor movement on the mount. If you still need additional security, a dab of thread lock (medium stuff) on the motor mounting screws.
#2468
There are Evader users that have gone one an extra step in ultimate motor mounting toughness. Using two motor mounts to eliminate flex on the rear end. I personally have not seen the need to go this far into modding the Evader platform. Over the years, the little gap (mesh) between the spur/pinion gears has proved to be enough of wiggle room for my Evader. If you are slapping the ground hard off of jumps and whatnot, then possibly shock tuning is needed.
Get out there and throw some dirt!
Get out there and throw some dirt!
#2469
There are Evader users that have gone one an extra step in ultimate motor mounting toughness. Using two motor mounts to eliminate flex on the rear end. I personally have not seen the need to go this far into modding the Evader platform. Over the years, the little gap (mesh) between the spur/pinion gears has proved to be enough of wiggle room for my Evader. If you are slapping the ground hard off of jumps and whatnot, then possibly shock tuning is needed.
Get out there and throw some dirt!
Get out there and throw some dirt!
#2470
Hey, at least the spur gear was all that stripped. Receipt paper (the thinner laser printed stuff at gas pumps/stores/super markets) is what I use to get an optimum mesh between the pinion and spur gears. Great fitting drivers help get motor screws tight enough to prevent motor movement on the mount. If you still need additional security, a dab of thread lock (medium stuff) on the motor mounting screws.
#2471
The Evader ST Pro took a serious hit. Not so much a "hit", but more of a rut grabbing a hold of one rear arm, and not letting go. At least that's when I noticed the ST had an issue. It could have been the nasty landing cracking the mount and the rut gave the final push. Maybe just becoming brittle with age? It's for sure the weakest link on the whole ST Pro platform. If only Duratrax had made the mount out of some softer material. Meh.
You just can't find them anymore. I think I have a few spare arm mounts left. This is the one and only part I wish RPM would have volunteered to make back in the day. After the spares are depleted, I guess I'll have to move on to the EXT chassis plate.
You just can't find them anymore. I think I have a few spare arm mounts left. This is the one and only part I wish RPM would have volunteered to make back in the day. After the spares are depleted, I guess I'll have to move on to the EXT chassis plate.
#2472
Yikes! Yeah, that Pro chassis plate is really rare, and those mounts and just as rare, if not more so. lol I've been running the Brushless chassis plates with the DTX wheelie bar. Great setup, but there are some obvious stress marks that appear on the first few runs (directly under the gearbox), yet they haven't caused a failure in all the runs I've put them through. Going on like a few years now. If you need parts bro, I'm your guy. I bought like three spare parts Evaders and a bunch of NOS from my LHS that decided to quit on DTX stuff. Unfortunately though, I do not have mounts for that Pro chassis plate...
#2473
Yikes! Yeah, that Pro chassis plate is really rare, and those mounts and just as rare, if not more so. lol I've been running the Brushless chassis plates with the DTX wheelie bar. Great setup, but there are some obvious stress marks that appear on the first few runs (directly under the gearbox), yet they haven't caused a failure in all the runs I've put them through. Going on like a few years now. If you need parts bro, I'm your guy. I bought like three spare parts Evaders and a bunch of NOS from my LHS that decided to quit on DTX stuff. Unfortunately though, I do not have mounts for that Pro chassis plate...
#2474
I just got done rebuilding the shocks; cleaning bearings, and replacing the rear suspension arm mount. I went to bolt everything back together, and noticed motor guard not lining up with chassis plate . And the more I look at the ST, from the rear, the angle of the pinion is looking a bit weird. Maybe it's my eyes. I don't know. Next maintenance session will have a closer look.
I'm looking forward to the long weekend and being at the track. Evader was down for awhile. Can't wait to get it back out there.
I'm looking forward to the long weekend and being at the track. Evader was down for awhile. Can't wait to get it back out there.
#2475
That's very odd. For your motor guard to not line up, there would have to be something wrong with how the gearbox is mounted to the rear chassis plate, or if the case itself is tweaked somehow. The pinion angle could be a bent motor mount plate, collapsed motor bearing, cracked pinion, bent motor shaft, or maybe its related to the gearbox alignment issue. It could be anything! lol Just to give you a few ideas...
Fresh shocks on a the track is always nice!
My Evaders are awaiting some surgery. Both need the yearly gearbox rip down, ST needs the shocks rebuilt (I have the kit!), the EXT needs the shocks topped off, has a broken upper steering deck, and I need to get a new set of rims and Badlands for it too.
The ST is still chugging along until I get the time for the above work. Got over four years now on the BL diff!
Fresh shocks on a the track is always nice!
My Evaders are awaiting some surgery. Both need the yearly gearbox rip down, ST needs the shocks rebuilt (I have the kit!), the EXT needs the shocks topped off, has a broken upper steering deck, and I need to get a new set of rims and Badlands for it too.
The ST is still chugging along until I get the time for the above work. Got over four years now on the BL diff!