thehuntingterminator

yeah, good idea. use a bus body and just paint it like the Mystery Machine

cbaumler

Here's a quick update on my rustler buggy conversion. It's still a work in progress, but I've made a few changes. First of all, I ditched the Integy extensions. I've added Protrac front arms, RPM rears to even it out, added an Integy tranny case and a custom painted body by Zielke Racing. Here are some pics.

Stryker USMC

That thing looks too pretty to drive

Great conversion.

Aljo

That is looking sooo much better than the original pics you posted, very nice paint job.

I am waiting on my new motors andParma PSE Blank Uncut Paint Mask, 8.5 x 11" &
Bob Dively Liquid Masking Film (4 oz)to arrive so I can paint my body and post some new pics and running vids.

thehuntingterminator

have you driven it yet?

Jackedman

My Feedback: (2)

cbaumler that body looks sick. The rims and color complete the look on it. What body is that??


On another note has anyone looked that the kit where you can covert you rustler to a slash ??

Muskokarc

I have seen the kits your talking about Jackedman, looks fairly simple to do to.

Well I found a body that should do the trick for my Mystery machine look. Its a SUV body style for a Wheely King

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_1000_1015/products_id/34312/n/HPI-Scarlet-Bandit-4x4-Body

Any one know if it would fit on the Rustler with extended rear body mounts?

My other thought it to get the Desertrat body to do the Mystery machine.

cbaumler

Thanks. Yes, it is, butI'll get over it once i flip it on it's lid a few times . It's been fun to build.

cbaumler

Haven't bashed it real hard yet as it's still a work in progress...that will change once I'm done. As of yet, just a few speed runs, etc on the street.

cbaumler

It's a Proline crowd pleazer for the Kyosho 777.

I used the STRC Slash LCG kit with my stock rusty chassis. This extends the stock length to that of a slash (or buggy in my case).

XDIME03

I just got my first Rustler, did not get it new. The guy I got it from said it was like new so I assumed it was not that old. It does not have a esc so I assume it is an older truck. Does anyone know where I can get a build sheet for it so I can see what is what. Right now if I plug in the battery the truck starts spinning like accelerator is pressed, I tried to adjust the throttle position but does not seem to have a neutral position. also when I went to disconnect to see what was wrong the wire harness to the battery was pretty hot. seemed weird to me but I am used to using nitro trucks. Any hints or suggestions would be great. Thanks

Muskokarc

Traxxas has full exploded views and manuals on their site.

As for the speed control. If its the old Mecanical one check and make sure that your servo on the MSC is working. Another thing you can do to check is take the MSC off the body put power to it and manualy move the dial that the servo hooked into. I just recently got rid of my old MSC, they work well when they do work though only realy 4 speeds. Forwards, forwards faster, revers, and stop. But will move.

I myself am looking at getting a new charger. Been looking at the ones on Hobypartz.com ones that do all batery types. I like to get one that is both ac/dc powerd, though I like the price on the DC only one.

They are:
Thunder AC6 Smart 5-in-1 LiPo RC Charger

Sky Charger B6AC 6-in-1 DUAL POWER LiPo Charger

Thunder 680 Professional Intelligent Digital Multifunction Balance Charger 80/Watt 6A for NICD/Lithium/PB Batteries

XDIME03

I checked on the site and only found manuals for the new style with esc. Just wanna make sure I am not going to fry anything while im checking around. I will check again just to make sure.

Muskokarc

The MSC is for the most part just a variable resistor,  or like the dimer for a house light.  It works similar to a nitro speed control in that it uses a servo to ajust the speed, but with revers. 

 To keep from frying the receiver unplug it from the speed control.  Make sure you have you wheels off the ground if you have a starter box it would work well.  Take the speed control off the servo. Plug the battery in and then move the arm on the speed control one way then the other till the motor stops.  Then disconnect the battery and reconnect the MSC to the receiver.  Disconnect  one of the leads to the motor at the bullet connection to keep the motor from coming on.   Then plug you battery back in and check to make sure you servos are working.  Center the servos.  Disconnect the battery and then carefully put the MSC  back onto its servo.  Clear the rear wheels plug the motor connections together.  Plug in your battery.  Adjust your throttle trim to stop the motor if its moving. 

 If the motor dose not stop then you may have a faulty control.  It comes apart with just a few screws.  Inside you will see various metal contacts.  There should be spaces between each contact, if they are corroded together just use a knife to clear the spaces. You can also use a contact cleaner.  

That should help.

XDIME03

Thanks alot for all of the information. I will try that tonight and post if it worked... Thanks again.

Muskokarc

Glad to help.

B192734

Alrighty. So my ESC issues...

I replaced the batteries in my radio. That should be fine. I tried reprogramming, and everything looked like it should. But when I put any throttle on, it just starts running and won't stop. I can hit the brakes and it'll stop it, but then it will randomly start running or just twitching as if I were hitting the throttle. So still having the same problem, but have narrowed it slightly by changing the radio batteries. Any other thoughts?

Also, for a different truck, When you get a brand new brushless motor, do you need to break them in at all, or are they just good to go? Thanks, and everyone have a great rest of the day!

Muskokarc

Brushless are good to go right out of the box.  They do not have any contacts that need to be worn in. 

As for your twitching could be your receiver.  Mine use to do that with my old MSC if i moved my steering servo would make my motor move.  See what happens when you disconnect your steering servo see if that helps.  Also have you tried to recalibrate you ESC with you radio?

B192734

I have tried recalibrating the ESC and radio. Still does it.

Jackedman

My Feedback: (2)

have you tried an different esc ?? to a different radio if you have one??

Stryker USMC

Hey gang,

I've developed an interesting problem after installing the ProTrac kit and STRC aluminum hop-ups. Here is a breakdown of the Mods so far, hoping someone will recognize a potential problem.

Pro-Line Protrac Kit w/ rear shock tower and rear hub carriers omitted(will use rear shock tower once the new body comes in)
Pro-Line Power Stroke shocks front and rear
STRC aluminum rear hub carriers
STRC oversized aluminum front knuckles
STRC aluminum caster blocks
STRC aluminum 1 degree toe-in rear hub carriers
STRC aluminum front bulkhead
STRC heat treated lock-nut style hinge-pin kit

When assembling and installing the parts, I tried my best to measure and extend the camber links and steering links according to the setup sheet for the Slash. With the car on the floor and looking down at it, the toe-in and camber look just right. Here is the problem: when I turn the tires, they don't return to center. If I turn left and release the steering wheel, it goes nearly center but still points left slightly. When I turn right and release the wheel, the tires return to center pointed a little to the right. Did I not adjust something properly? Are the steering links too long? Is the servo going bad already? I have the transmitter at the default location in regeards to the dual-rate knob. Adjusting the knobs make no difference. I don't have enough experience to figure it out.

Thanks, in advance, for any suggestions.

Muskokarc

One thing to check is how free you steering is.  Disconnect the steering servo from the steering bell crank.   Then check how freely you can move your wheels back and forth.  I had similar problem and found that my bell crank was too stiff from corrosion  on the screws.  I cleaned it all up and smoothed down the screws and a world of difference.   It could also just be a over tightened screw to.

Stryker USMC

I will give that a try.

XDIME03

Just wanted to say this thread is great to the people new to Rustlers. I have thought about upgrading the Rustler I just got in a package deal. It has the ceramic block mechanical esc. Looking to go electronic and stay brushed but want to upgrade the motor with the esc. Any suggestions as far as upgrade motor/esc combinations to go with?

Muskokarc

Well I just got in my T-bone bumper set.  Looks great and is made from good material.  They are also hand make.  Went on my old rustler with out any trouble.  Will post some pics later when I get to a better connection.

XDIME03, as for you upgrades.  I just upgraded last summer from the original motor and mechanical speed control, and am now looking to get another ESC.  My first one does not have reverse and is limited to 7.2v It is a Novak Sports Pro.  For a motor I got a Team Orion  Method R 17T it only cost about $35 Cnd.  The new ESC I am looking is another Novak ESC.  The Havok 3s, it is water proof and can run both brushed and brushless motors so when I get my brushless motor I will not have to get a new ESC again.