Aljo

Today I took a look at the rear right setup and when I pulled it apart noticed that I had forgotten to shim it up so that was fixed also the rear diff output had alot of play so I inserted spacers so the CVD's once fitted reduced the play significantly. Also braced some of the bell crank with carbon fibre all needs testing but it is alot more rigid but I can see one more area that I can improve it so will do that asap. I the update video I had setup the end points but not the toein/toeout and the centreing was off aswell and the steering had flew in the plastic aswell so a few more things have been attended to after that video.

Chassis has 0 flex FLM built chassis very tough the front gearbox aka diff housing/bulkhead assembly is braced with the steering shafts that are screwed through the chassis and the shafts I used areFront innerSTRC HEAT TREATED POLISHED STEEL LOCK-NUT STYLE HINGE-PINjust the right length and plenty strong.

FLM Extended Rustler Chassis

[*]CNC Machined from billet 6061 aluminum[*]Superior strength 6.35mm thick chassis[/list]

phmaximus

check this, My HPI e10 had a stupid amount of chassis flex, no kidding...

this was my solution & it works a treat



Its been very hot here lately so ive made some scoops for the ESC & Fan, should work for a rustler too






Hows after I went for a bash to test it out, rolled it into a curb.... hard




All i think what would of happened to a body if I was running one, would of cracked for sure...
well after some bashing with a hammer and a punch, looks like new, just needs a coat of paint. If anything its straighter now than it ever was lol

Jackedman

My Feedback: (2)

Man how fast were you going

Aljo

Cool mods though not sure if the ESC really requires help cooling with a cage setup like that but still a great idea. Motor catch would help though looks great.

Muskokarc

Thanx phmaximus will go through that check list when I get a new spin start or find the old one. 

One thing I did not mention is that you can hear the starter labor turning over the motor then for a short moment it would spin with no motor resistance if that makes any difference??

I got a bid in on some spare part that includes some new glow plugs.  It is the one thing I did not replace that wears out. 

phmaximus

lol
well it didennt look that fast, it maxes out at 60km/h so maby 40-50km/h, just a freakcrash, did look cool tho lol

one advantage of the ducts is it keeps water splashes out and its stoped grass getting into the fans, witch was a huge problem before, I was thinking about making a filter but nothing has got stuck so far.... touch wood

Aljo

phmaximus

nearly there....


Got my ruustler going again

rayndog3

I was down for a couple days too. busted another rim on fridaygoingoff a snow jump into a fence. was it stupid? YES. was it funny as hell? YES.anyways, got the sameRPM rims I have on my on-roader, hopefully we're good to go. downtime sucks!!!

rayndog3

Well, spoke too soon. Just ran offmore snowjumps on lunch and broke a rear shock tower. it was a stocker and not rpm, so not too unbelievable. I'll put a small vid of the jumps and post it up if Iget the time.

phmaximus

lol, dammmm thats gotta suck,,,,murphy's law

phmaximus

Well not to sure about my rustler.... still not right, ive got heaps to do, the suspension is stiff & the front shock shafts are rusty. because of that Ive only 1/2 done the ride hight, but ive worked out where i want it to sit. Im happy with the rear, just need to free up the front & get a bit of sag. im aiming for around 10-15mmmm sag on the shocks. I love the look of my tyres but I dont think i will be poping wheelies on them.

porterdog

Need more powah!

I have a VXL rustler that Igot used, It came with the Velineon 3500 and a played-out Dynamite Fuze esc, which I've recently replaced with a HobbyWing XeRun 80A unit.

I'm new to this, so for a while I had a 28t pinion and a 76t spur. Motor ran a little hot (like, duh...) It was a *riot* though- wheelies at will, massive oversteer, able to lauch off small road imperfections.

My question is, what sort of motor can Ibuy that will give me the equivalent of that undergeared Velineon without heating? Running 2s LiPo, bashing only.

TIA!

thehuntingterminator

28/76 is pretty high gearing. almost any motor will get hot under that. you can try a 3660 Tacon motor though that may run cooler due to the longer can. also, most Castle motors run cooler since they're 4 poles.

porterdog

LOL, like Isaid, I'm new (Got an IR thermometer now, always wanted one 'o them....)

I think my motor is hot because the motor is spinning too fast. Neither the Fuze nor the HW esc got hot. To combat this I should increase the size of the pinion, and this morning I did just that, to 32. I knocked off a rear arm 10 or so minutes in, so I don't really know if it helped or not... The thing is, it had obviously less pop than the smaller pinion did.

If I wanted to make a motor upgrade to get that torque back and while allowing the motor to operate in a carefree manner, what should Ibuy? HobbyPartz has a variety of true 540-sized choices, from 3.5T to 21.5T. Should Ilook at a 4.5 (4000kV) or at a 10.5T (3300)? For comparison, the Velineon is 10T/3500kV.... It's pretty confusing.

thehuntingterminator

Increasing the pinion will raise the gear ratio making the motor get even hotter. Here's a simple formula to help you determine your gear ratio of your pinion and spur: divide the number of teeth on the spur by the number of teeth on the pinion. The higher the number you get once you've divided, the harder your motor is having to work. Hope that helps. By the way, unless ur racing or something, I would go with a 550 sized motor (3660) so you can still achieve he torque your wanting while still getting the same great speed.

porterdog

Well, here's how I landed where I did on gear ratios.

Stock is 25/83 (3.32).  Traxxas' recommended NiMH upspeed gearing is 28/83 (2.96).  Their recommended 2s LiPO is 31/76 (2.45).   28/76 is 2.71, so 28/76 (2.71) is between the NiMH and LiPO factory recommendations.    I can go lower on the pinion or larger on the spur, have a variety of choices available.   I guess once I get my gearbox housing replace and RPM rear arms installed (whoops...) I can try 28/86 (3.07) and see if  that runs cooler.   Can I go too low?   I could go as low as 18/76 (4.22) or 20/76 (3.8)...

Thanks for the help.

Muskokarc

I am running 18 78 i think keep forgetting the exact. I runs well without over heat. I am running a ezrun combo again do not have the exacts on me, and running on 2s lipo. Yes you can have trouble going to low.

Here is a gear ratio calulator.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/gearwizard.cfm

thehuntingterminator

I am running the VXL system on 2 or3s lipo and I have it geared 23/86. It gets pretty warm but has plenty of torque and speed (about 50mph probably).

rayndog3

I run a 19/86 on my on-road rustythat has a tacon3200 kv motor and the xerun 80amp esc on 3s. and I get plenty of speed, motor gets to about 140 degrees on a hot day, this time of year it stays around 120 or so degrees. of course the esc doesn't even break a sweat! absolutely love running this thing!!! though the only downside is its way too low to jump with it.

now on my off-road one Ihave a 6000 kv ezrun combo, this motor on 2s get hot quickly running 19/86, and not to mention it has bogging at the start. I lowered the pinion to 12, and the bogging is gone, the motor stays within proper operating temp. granted my top speed suffers a bit. but I'm not looking for a rocket for off road.

thisisjustinfo for youto take into account forhelping with your application.I tried running both with a 76tspur and absolutely hatedit, so I stay with 86t.

phmaximus

hey guys, u on the page before this page 424, I posted a gear chart.

Mine is been built for speed... 34/83 here, had to mod the gearbox to get i to work.

Muskokarc

I get 69kph with my gearing and a 2s Lipo.  Guess I should dig out my larger pinion gears and see what I can get out of it.

phmaximus

thats not bad....

well after nearly 1 year ive ordered the chrome paint(alclad 114) to finish my rustler body... YAY!!!

next will be the biggest 3s battery i can find that will fit... one good thing about extending the chassis, it also extends the battery tray, its about the same as a slash. ATM it shares a 2s with the slash, but I want the rustler to run 3s...

still needto doubble check sizes but im cheaping out this time

found these
AUD$32.83 11.1v 5000mAh 30C LiPo 3-Cell 11.1 RC Wif Akku Battery Continuous discharge:125A max:150a Max charge 5a
AUD$45.55 RC lab 11.1V 5500MAH 35C 60C AKKU battery Lipo 3S Continuous discharge:192.5A max:330a? Max charge 5.5a
AUD$46.16 Nano tech WinMax 5200mAh 11.1V 40C Lipo battery Continuous discharge:208A max:520a Max charge 52a
AUD$48.20 Nano tech WinMax 5200mAh 11.1V 50C Lipo battery Continuous discharge:260A max:520a Max charge 52a

Some are overkill for my charger as i can only charge at max 5amps, um using a ESC with 90Continuous unknown max

porterdog

Thanks for all the gearing input!  I'll try several options next week once I get the new gearbox housing installed.   A couple other newbie motor-heat related questions:

1.  Could something be wrong with my motor that causes it to run hot?  Works great; plenty torque, plenty speed... just hot.
2.  Could the ESC contribute somehow?  The 80A XeRun specs aren't too far off the VXL ESC specs but... whatever's going on inside that blue box is FM as far as I'm concerned.

phmaximus

How hot is hot?????

Mine was getting hot, so i fitted a heatsink with fan, and used thremal paste to get better thermal contact, ive even made up a tube to direct air to the fan. Next option if i go higher on my gearing is a Yeah racing tornado fan for the motor... im running one on the ESC...

Have a read of this... well worth the read. Its information from novak about motor temps
[link]http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/brushless_motor_notice/index.html[/link]

& electric motor is like a petrol motor, if u load it up with excessive weight or gearing it will run hotter.
I would be like a full growen man riding on a kids 49cc bike, its gonna overheat