The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
#2477
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
ORIGINAL: bIGmiK
Grrr I can never find the link to those damnit aluminuum rear toe block braces, link me someone please.
Grrr I can never find the link to those damnit aluminuum rear toe block braces, link me someone please.
I guess the site is not working right now but Bryan is working on it and he reads the forum so if you want some braces he can contact you.
#2478
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Gosh those Toe braces have saved my ST like a zillion times, especially after re-installing the brushless motor. Good purchase. Good product.
#2480
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Yep dude if you read this... shoot me a PM on here or an email at [email protected]
#2481
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
ORIGINAL: mbrody
Gosh those Toe braces have saved my ST like a zillion times, especially after re-installing the brushless motor. Good purchase. Good product.
Gosh those Toe braces have saved my ST like a zillion times, especially after re-installing the brushless motor. Good purchase. Good product.
You got that right. Those braces are one of the best upgrades available for your evader.
mbrody, how's your evader doing these days?
#2482
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Hi everyone,
Well I just bought a gtb 4.5 for my evader st pro. I geared it with a 15 tooth pinion and the stock spur. WOW super fast and very powerful too easy to wheelie. Jumping is unreal its soo hard to keep the front down while in the air. After the first run the rear tires were already entirely bald. The motor runs very cool gets barely warm and the esc is barely warm as well awesome set up however after the second battery the differential went bald like the tires. Good thing I have a back up tranny but this will get pretty annoying if it keeps up. Just wanted to let everyone know about my experience.
Mark
Well I just bought a gtb 4.5 for my evader st pro. I geared it with a 15 tooth pinion and the stock spur. WOW super fast and very powerful too easy to wheelie. Jumping is unreal its soo hard to keep the front down while in the air. After the first run the rear tires were already entirely bald. The motor runs very cool gets barely warm and the esc is barely warm as well awesome set up however after the second battery the differential went bald like the tires. Good thing I have a back up tranny but this will get pretty annoying if it keeps up. Just wanted to let everyone know about my experience.
Mark
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
ORIGINAL: marky1
Hi everyone,
Well I just bought a gtb 4.5 for my evader st pro. I geared it with a 15 tooth pinion and the stock spur. WOW super fast and very powerful too easy to wheelie. Jumping is unreal its soo hard to keep the front down while in the air. After the first run the rear tires were already entirely bald. The motor runs very cool gets barely warm and the esc is barely warm as well awesome set up however after the second battery the differential went bald like the tires. Good thing I have a back up tranny but this will get pretty annoying if it keeps up. Just wanted to let everyone know about my experience.
Mark
Hi everyone,
Well I just bought a gtb 4.5 for my evader st pro. I geared it with a 15 tooth pinion and the stock spur. WOW super fast and very powerful too easy to wheelie. Jumping is unreal its soo hard to keep the front down while in the air. After the first run the rear tires were already entirely bald. The motor runs very cool gets barely warm and the esc is barely warm as well awesome set up however after the second battery the differential went bald like the tires. Good thing I have a back up tranny but this will get pretty annoying if it keeps up. Just wanted to let everyone know about my experience.
Mark
Sounds great. I love the power and speed of bl motors & wouldn't even dream of going back to brushes again. I hope you have the aluminum idler gear in there though, if not you may want to get one so you'll be ready
#2486
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Alright so I adjusted my tranny according to this wright up:
It comes up to 45 degrees like it is supposed to only while it is doing it something is screaming like a banshee [:@] I'm not sure what it is or what is going on any hints/clues?
ORIGINAL: duneslider
Here is that write up on adjusting the diff and slipper. If someone wants to try it with a high powered motot and see if the gear still melts I would be curious. They claim that by using the ae nylon gear and adjusting like this most people won't have problems.
Later
Duneslider
Ball diff slippage can as we know melt the diff gear. If the slipper gives before the ball diff the gear will be safe. Here is how I check the balance between my slipper and ball diff.
1. Remove the cover revealing the spur and pinion gears.
2. Tighten the slipper all the way
3. Back off the slipper ¼ turn.
4. Hold the right rear wheel and spur gear so they cannot turn I use the heel of my hand to hold the tire to a table top while holding the spur with my fingers.
5. Try to turn the left wheel with your left hand (as if truck were moving forward). It should be almost impossible to turn the left wheel. If so stop. Your diff is good. If you can turn the wheel and the slipper shaft is not turning your diff is too loose.
6. Tighten the diff 1/8th turn and re-test.
7. Repeat until the wheel will not turn without turning the slipper.
Once the diff is adjusted you will need to set the slipper.
This can be fun!
1. Turn your radio and truck on
2. Hold the truck out in front of you, holding it by the rear wheels. The truck should hang nose down.
3. Have some one pull full throttle on the transmitter. Be careful it does not hit you in the nose. If the truck comes up above level the slipper is too tight. Loosen it and re-test. If the truck comes up between ½ (45 degrees) to level you are good. If the truck does not come at least ½ way up tighten the slipper a little and re-test.
I have developed a way to do this myself, I sit down and put the truck between my knees (bottom facing me) and use the transmitter myself, I can't convince my wife to even touch my truck, not to mention help. It has also been said by Hydro_Gin that it is important to do this periodically and especially when you hear funny noises out of the rear end of the truck.
jep rc offers the following advice:
12-09-2002, 11:09 PM
Jacob -
You hit the nail on the head with your question about how snug is snug regarding the Evader diff. I think this is the main problem people have with the diff. The idea is to fully compress the little spring on the diff screw then back off just slightly while still leaving the spring compressed. I think most people stop tightening before the spring is compressed, and then back off, which results in a loose diff, and melted diff gear shortly thereafter.
The problem is, it is difficult to know when the spring is fully compressed - and tightening too much will result in a stripped nut, or broken nut carrier.
The best thing to do is to try tightening a diff while it is assembled, but out of the tranny, so you can look carefully at the spring and get a feel for when it is tight - you *can* tell the difference between when the nut initially contacts the spring, and when the spring bottoms out fully compressed.
Hope that makes sense.
Jep
Here is that write up on adjusting the diff and slipper. If someone wants to try it with a high powered motot and see if the gear still melts I would be curious. They claim that by using the ae nylon gear and adjusting like this most people won't have problems.
Later
Duneslider
Ball diff slippage can as we know melt the diff gear. If the slipper gives before the ball diff the gear will be safe. Here is how I check the balance between my slipper and ball diff.
1. Remove the cover revealing the spur and pinion gears.
2. Tighten the slipper all the way
3. Back off the slipper ¼ turn.
4. Hold the right rear wheel and spur gear so they cannot turn I use the heel of my hand to hold the tire to a table top while holding the spur with my fingers.
5. Try to turn the left wheel with your left hand (as if truck were moving forward). It should be almost impossible to turn the left wheel. If so stop. Your diff is good. If you can turn the wheel and the slipper shaft is not turning your diff is too loose.
6. Tighten the diff 1/8th turn and re-test.
7. Repeat until the wheel will not turn without turning the slipper.
Once the diff is adjusted you will need to set the slipper.
This can be fun!
1. Turn your radio and truck on
2. Hold the truck out in front of you, holding it by the rear wheels. The truck should hang nose down.
3. Have some one pull full throttle on the transmitter. Be careful it does not hit you in the nose. If the truck comes up above level the slipper is too tight. Loosen it and re-test. If the truck comes up between ½ (45 degrees) to level you are good. If the truck does not come at least ½ way up tighten the slipper a little and re-test.
I have developed a way to do this myself, I sit down and put the truck between my knees (bottom facing me) and use the transmitter myself, I can't convince my wife to even touch my truck, not to mention help. It has also been said by Hydro_Gin that it is important to do this periodically and especially when you hear funny noises out of the rear end of the truck.
jep rc offers the following advice:
12-09-2002, 11:09 PM
Jacob -
You hit the nail on the head with your question about how snug is snug regarding the Evader diff. I think this is the main problem people have with the diff. The idea is to fully compress the little spring on the diff screw then back off just slightly while still leaving the spring compressed. I think most people stop tightening before the spring is compressed, and then back off, which results in a loose diff, and melted diff gear shortly thereafter.
The problem is, it is difficult to know when the spring is fully compressed - and tightening too much will result in a stripped nut, or broken nut carrier.
The best thing to do is to try tightening a diff while it is assembled, but out of the tranny, so you can look carefully at the spring and get a feel for when it is tight - you *can* tell the difference between when the nut initially contacts the spring, and when the spring bottoms out fully compressed.
Hope that makes sense.
Jep
#2487
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Just adjust it like the manual says. Tighten the diff all the way ( not snug but TIGHT), then back it off 1/8 turn. Tighten the slipper down then back it off 1/4 turn to start and try it. It should only squeel the first 2 feet taking off under full power. You may need to fine tune the slipper a little to get it right.
#2488
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
I did it like the directions said at first and it still squealed, thats why I looked for the write up. It should squeal for the the first two feet, are you sure it sounds horrible [:@]
#2490
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Tight, byt tight i mean chuck your allen key is your pliers and turn the tire until it wont move anymore, then back it off [>:]
#2491
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Congrats Ron on the post that started the 100th page!!!!!
I never imagined this thread would have grown into the monster that it is today when I first started it. haha I would like to thank all the T.E.C. members, present and future, for their contributions to this thread. Next milestone.....200 pages![>:]
And as for my 'Vader...well havent run it in like 1 1/2 months.[X(][] Nearly stripped servo doesn't help matters much I suppose That on top of all the work I was doing for school and going to races to photograph all the time didn't leave much time for bashing. I'm gonna get a new servo soon and go out and drive![8D] Hopefully I'll get a 4300 set up with a Spektrum by the end of this year, along with some toe block braces. I'll be set after that.
Some of my super awesome pics...
ORIGINAL: 4 stroken ron
Come on guys 1 more post and we can make 100 pages. I genuine milestone.
Ron
Come on guys 1 more post and we can make 100 pages. I genuine milestone.
Ron
I never imagined this thread would have grown into the monster that it is today when I first started it. haha I would like to thank all the T.E.C. members, present and future, for their contributions to this thread. Next milestone.....200 pages![>:]
And as for my 'Vader...well havent run it in like 1 1/2 months.[X(][] Nearly stripped servo doesn't help matters much I suppose That on top of all the work I was doing for school and going to races to photograph all the time didn't leave much time for bashing. I'm gonna get a new servo soon and go out and drive![8D] Hopefully I'll get a 4300 set up with a Spektrum by the end of this year, along with some toe block braces. I'll be set after that.
Some of my super awesome pics...
#2492
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Thanks for starting the Evader Coalition, it's been a lot of fun and I'm looking forward to the next 100 pages. BTW, awesome pictures.
#2493
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
i agree. awsom pictures and also agree on the next 100 pages, because my name is die hard evader fan. but really. i have gained much knowledge from many people from this forum it is trully the best forum for the evader. Not only is my truck alot better and stronger now is it alot faster and needs less time to maintain, do to its new tranny upgrade, new braces and new brushless system. it got to the point where i would run the car and get bored if it cuz i was not breaking anything. so was born evader # 2 the BX. But to my surprize after crashing tumbling and tearing the buggy up. it is holding up very well. i love these evaders and i love this forum.
#2494
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Hey everybody! So hows this for a guys first race?
My town is having its annual huckleberry festivul and friend called me friday to ask me if I was going to be in the big RC race. I didnt know anything about it and I had to run around town at 9:00 at night trying to find a schedule of events to learn more. So I dont get a schedule till the next morning and when I do the goofy thing doesnt say anything other than " bring your own RC" and the location of the race. OK...... so Im thinkin theres gonna be a bunch of kids running Tyco RTRs on the same channel around the car wash which was where the race was supposed to happen. Oh well, might be fun anyway right? And Im thinkin if nothin else I'll get to meet some fellow RCers! I was actually more excited about meeting fellow bashers from my area than I was about racing cause Im pretty sure Im the only RC guy in this town.[]
So I spent Saturday morning shinin on my rides and loading everything up in the back of my Jeep. I wasn't sure what kind of rides would be racing so I loaded up all of my stuff. (well both my nitros and my sons vader since mine is was down with motor problems and he wasnt here to race his anyway [>:] ) You can see the car wash from my house across a field so when I saw somebody over there with a radio in there hands I took off. I was really excited and when I got over there and it turned out to be a 5 year old kid with a walmart general lee I thuoght "no big deal, Im early! I'll just sit here and pretend to be scared of this kids car untill someone with a real RC shows up". It could have been an awfufully long wait!
The only other person to ever show was the "track official". He was actually the guy who you went to in order to register a real car for a hotrod show downtown. But he said that he was in charge of the rc race, and that if we waited a little while there would be more people. This kid showed up with a dead battery anyway so I put it on my 959 brain tied to my Jeep battery while we waited. He was a cute kid and I thought he was going to wet himself when i opened the back of the jeep and he saw my gear. H couldnt get over the MGT!. He kept dragging his mom over and making her look at the big "monser truck".
So anyhow, This guy finally gets tired of telling me that theres usually 15 to 20 entrys every year and asks me if I want to race the kid? I look down at this kids general lee (the coolest part about this thing being the horn that could play Dixie) and Im thinkin "dang dude! Whats the point?" But you could tell this kid was there to race so we set up some 5 gallon soap buckets from the car wash and hooked em up!! Heeeelarious!! Poor kid couldnt hold a straight line to save his life. He was real good at doin 4 mile an hour circles! He actually made it pretty hard to LET HIM WIN!!! Any of ya'all ever had to concentrate really hard in order to LOSE a race??
The kids mom finally helped him get pretty much around the course once, while I pretended to be stuck in the grass and we called him the winner. Turns out the guy running the race had a couple of Wal-mart gift cards for first and second place and actually tried to give me one! I told him to give them both to the kid, he needed a new battery bad!
So thats the story of my very first RC race!! Total loss! The kid had fun though and was even talkin some smack after the race. I guess I had fun too though. And if ya'all want too experience some real white knuckle RC'ing, hand the controls too your three hundred $ investment over to a five year old you've never met before. Now that was exciting!!!!!!
post u later
My town is having its annual huckleberry festivul and friend called me friday to ask me if I was going to be in the big RC race. I didnt know anything about it and I had to run around town at 9:00 at night trying to find a schedule of events to learn more. So I dont get a schedule till the next morning and when I do the goofy thing doesnt say anything other than " bring your own RC" and the location of the race. OK...... so Im thinkin theres gonna be a bunch of kids running Tyco RTRs on the same channel around the car wash which was where the race was supposed to happen. Oh well, might be fun anyway right? And Im thinkin if nothin else I'll get to meet some fellow RCers! I was actually more excited about meeting fellow bashers from my area than I was about racing cause Im pretty sure Im the only RC guy in this town.[]
So I spent Saturday morning shinin on my rides and loading everything up in the back of my Jeep. I wasn't sure what kind of rides would be racing so I loaded up all of my stuff. (well both my nitros and my sons vader since mine is was down with motor problems and he wasnt here to race his anyway [>:] ) You can see the car wash from my house across a field so when I saw somebody over there with a radio in there hands I took off. I was really excited and when I got over there and it turned out to be a 5 year old kid with a walmart general lee I thuoght "no big deal, Im early! I'll just sit here and pretend to be scared of this kids car untill someone with a real RC shows up". It could have been an awfufully long wait!
The only other person to ever show was the "track official". He was actually the guy who you went to in order to register a real car for a hotrod show downtown. But he said that he was in charge of the rc race, and that if we waited a little while there would be more people. This kid showed up with a dead battery anyway so I put it on my 959 brain tied to my Jeep battery while we waited. He was a cute kid and I thought he was going to wet himself when i opened the back of the jeep and he saw my gear. H couldnt get over the MGT!. He kept dragging his mom over and making her look at the big "monser truck".
So anyhow, This guy finally gets tired of telling me that theres usually 15 to 20 entrys every year and asks me if I want to race the kid? I look down at this kids general lee (the coolest part about this thing being the horn that could play Dixie) and Im thinkin "dang dude! Whats the point?" But you could tell this kid was there to race so we set up some 5 gallon soap buckets from the car wash and hooked em up!! Heeeelarious!! Poor kid couldnt hold a straight line to save his life. He was real good at doin 4 mile an hour circles! He actually made it pretty hard to LET HIM WIN!!! Any of ya'all ever had to concentrate really hard in order to LOSE a race??
The kids mom finally helped him get pretty much around the course once, while I pretended to be stuck in the grass and we called him the winner. Turns out the guy running the race had a couple of Wal-mart gift cards for first and second place and actually tried to give me one! I told him to give them both to the kid, he needed a new battery bad!
So thats the story of my very first RC race!! Total loss! The kid had fun though and was even talkin some smack after the race. I guess I had fun too though. And if ya'all want too experience some real white knuckle RC'ing, hand the controls too your three hundred $ investment over to a five year old you've never met before. Now that was exciting!!!!!!
post u later
#2495
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Actually Jay, that sounds like alot of fun. That kid is probably still talking about the guy with the huge monster truck that he raced.
I took my kids to an R/C airplane fun fly once. My kids are 7, 4, & 3,. (2 girls, 1 boy, the boy being the youngest).
Well, while we were there they noticed 2 of the planes parked on the ground had a Shrek and a Donkey figure for a pilot.
That's all I hear about now everytime something reminds them of the planes. And these 2 planes didn't even fly, but they were the most memorable for the kids obviously.
Sorry you didn't get to race, especially after getting all pumped up about it, but at least it wasn't a total loss. [8D]
I took my kids to an R/C airplane fun fly once. My kids are 7, 4, & 3,. (2 girls, 1 boy, the boy being the youngest).
Well, while we were there they noticed 2 of the planes parked on the ground had a Shrek and a Donkey figure for a pilot.
That's all I hear about now everytime something reminds them of the planes. And these 2 planes didn't even fly, but they were the most memorable for the kids obviously.
Sorry you didn't get to race, especially after getting all pumped up about it, but at least it wasn't a total loss. [8D]
#2496
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
J, you are a lot braver than I am. I would never let a young kid drive mine, maybe if I didn't have so much money into it. I'm sure slim_t is right, that boy is probably still hyped up about driving your truck.
#2497
RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Nice story j-boy!
Alright, I'd like to hear from all evader users here who have an all metal tranny.
A little update on my case: a month and a half ago I got a GTB/4.5r combo to go in my evader BX.
All was fine with the stock tranny for a while, but since I had the metal parts already (idler and HGI B2 diff gear) I decided to put those in at my next tranny rebuild/relube. When I put those in, I noticed that the alum idler was a tiny tiny bit smaller than the plastic one, mainly caused by the teeth beeing of a different shape, less "pointy" than the stock plastic one. Because of that the mesh was slightly less good than the plastic mesh I had before but it was still acceptable so I didn't think twice about it.
However, the tranny being all metal and since I used a good amount of AE tranny lube, I decided I could finally tighten my slipper a little bit over the very loose slipper I had before (I was now running the slipper at one full turn backed off from fully tightened, not enough to cause wheelies yet). It ran perfectly fine, smooth and excellent for quite a number of runs (15ish).
However, a couple days ago the tranny started to be noisy, clicking under hard acceleration. I checked the diff and I retightened it very well (max tighten and back off a small 1/8th turn).
The problem persisted so I thought one ball might have come loose and I opened it up.
It seems my alum idler had decreased in size a little bit, not much at all but since the mesh wasn't absolutely perfect to begin with, it came to a point where the mesh between idler and diff would skip a teeth under heavy acceleration. No teeth is missing, they don't even look used up, just a tiny bit smaller than before but enough to make the mesh problematic.
First, why did that happen? I had ample lube, metal all around, completely tight diff, gearbox well tightened (loose gearbox can cause gears to move around) and slipper was tighter than before but still looser than what some people here run (I was tightening the slipper all the way then backing off a full turn).
Second, for the people with an all metal tranny (including HGI B2 diff), how is your mesh between diff gear and idler? I'm curious as to why the shape of the teeth are not the same on plastic gears as the metal ones, the plastic are definitely more pointy and mesh together better. If someone has a digital measurer I'm pretty sure metal idler and diff are a tiny bit smaller than their plastic counterparts, even when new (maybe in the neighborhood of 0.3-0.5mm). For the people who only have the metal idler and not the B2 HGI diff, did you still notice that the aluminium idler teeth are less "pointy" and mesh less well than the plastic one?
I'm taking advices on what to do next, I just don't want that to happen again.
Alright, I'd like to hear from all evader users here who have an all metal tranny.
A little update on my case: a month and a half ago I got a GTB/4.5r combo to go in my evader BX.
All was fine with the stock tranny for a while, but since I had the metal parts already (idler and HGI B2 diff gear) I decided to put those in at my next tranny rebuild/relube. When I put those in, I noticed that the alum idler was a tiny tiny bit smaller than the plastic one, mainly caused by the teeth beeing of a different shape, less "pointy" than the stock plastic one. Because of that the mesh was slightly less good than the plastic mesh I had before but it was still acceptable so I didn't think twice about it.
However, the tranny being all metal and since I used a good amount of AE tranny lube, I decided I could finally tighten my slipper a little bit over the very loose slipper I had before (I was now running the slipper at one full turn backed off from fully tightened, not enough to cause wheelies yet). It ran perfectly fine, smooth and excellent for quite a number of runs (15ish).
However, a couple days ago the tranny started to be noisy, clicking under hard acceleration. I checked the diff and I retightened it very well (max tighten and back off a small 1/8th turn).
The problem persisted so I thought one ball might have come loose and I opened it up.
It seems my alum idler had decreased in size a little bit, not much at all but since the mesh wasn't absolutely perfect to begin with, it came to a point where the mesh between idler and diff would skip a teeth under heavy acceleration. No teeth is missing, they don't even look used up, just a tiny bit smaller than before but enough to make the mesh problematic.
First, why did that happen? I had ample lube, metal all around, completely tight diff, gearbox well tightened (loose gearbox can cause gears to move around) and slipper was tighter than before but still looser than what some people here run (I was tightening the slipper all the way then backing off a full turn).
Second, for the people with an all metal tranny (including HGI B2 diff), how is your mesh between diff gear and idler? I'm curious as to why the shape of the teeth are not the same on plastic gears as the metal ones, the plastic are definitely more pointy and mesh together better. If someone has a digital measurer I'm pretty sure metal idler and diff are a tiny bit smaller than their plastic counterparts, even when new (maybe in the neighborhood of 0.3-0.5mm). For the people who only have the metal idler and not the B2 HGI diff, did you still notice that the aluminium idler teeth are less "pointy" and mesh less well than the plastic one?
I'm taking advices on what to do next, I just don't want that to happen again.
#2498
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
cheech, what tranny upgrade did you do? i read many posts on what you said you were planning on doing but never read exactly what you did.
nice pics, any chance i could get a ride in one of those things? lol
ok a couple questions here (as usual).......
does anyone make custom shock towers? i would like some towers with more mounting options, 3 on the front is not enough for me...
who makes/who sells foam tires that will fit the evader... i am looking for some foams for a dirt oval setup. i have found a few links but they all were dead, cant seem to find any good links.... also is anyone running dirt oval with there evader? i need all the help i can get.
third and final, my buddy has a t3 (i think) and he has a setup that eliminates the slipper clutch.... something like this....
http://www.speedysracingparts.com/slippereliminator.htm
my question is, would this work on an evader or how is there something similar to this? i know it is bad on the tranny under normal use..... but this is for dirt oval... no jumping no real bumps and all that... just round and round in circles on a dirt track... it wouldnt be all that bad would it? also would locking the diff do me any good? i am considering it for the "direct drive" feel and less rotating mass.... plus its one less thing to have to worry about adjusting.
well this was a rather long post.... just a few more posts like this and you will be to 200 in no time....
any help would be great, thanks.
edit.... has anyone tried to mount up a stealth tranny on the evader? this would fix all the tranny troubles wouldnt it?
nice pics, any chance i could get a ride in one of those things? lol
ok a couple questions here (as usual).......
does anyone make custom shock towers? i would like some towers with more mounting options, 3 on the front is not enough for me...
who makes/who sells foam tires that will fit the evader... i am looking for some foams for a dirt oval setup. i have found a few links but they all were dead, cant seem to find any good links.... also is anyone running dirt oval with there evader? i need all the help i can get.
third and final, my buddy has a t3 (i think) and he has a setup that eliminates the slipper clutch.... something like this....
http://www.speedysracingparts.com/slippereliminator.htm
my question is, would this work on an evader or how is there something similar to this? i know it is bad on the tranny under normal use..... but this is for dirt oval... no jumping no real bumps and all that... just round and round in circles on a dirt track... it wouldnt be all that bad would it? also would locking the diff do me any good? i am considering it for the "direct drive" feel and less rotating mass.... plus its one less thing to have to worry about adjusting.
well this was a rather long post.... just a few more posts like this and you will be to 200 in no time....
any help would be great, thanks.
edit.... has anyone tried to mount up a stealth tranny on the evader? this would fix all the tranny troubles wouldnt it?
#2499
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RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
Flyojumper. I had the same thing happen to me when I tried the metal diff gear, it stripped the idler out after 3 batteries. After lots of measuring I found the metal diff gear is slightly smaller than the stock one. I thought I was the only one to have that happen till now.
#2500
RE: The Evader Coalition - T.E.C.
So raz54, what did you do? Did you revert to the plastic diff gear and kept the aluminium idler? Did it fix your problem and no stripping since?
Also, did you measure the alum idler versus the plastic idler by any chance? (is the aluminium slightly smaller?) What were the exact dimensions of both diff gears when you measured them? Did you notice the difference I was talking about on sharp pointy teeth for plastic versus more rounded less "meshy" for the aluminium? (even when new)
Phew, I know it's a quite a few questions but I'd really like to get to the bottom of this... If anyone has some input on this, please post.
Also, did you measure the alum idler versus the plastic idler by any chance? (is the aluminium slightly smaller?) What were the exact dimensions of both diff gears when you measured them? Did you notice the difference I was talking about on sharp pointy teeth for plastic versus more rounded less "meshy" for the aluminium? (even when new)
Phew, I know it's a quite a few questions but I'd really like to get to the bottom of this... If anyone has some input on this, please post.