CustomTamiyas4Life

My Feedback: (34)

Nothing lol, it's just a b2 diff gear, aluminum idler, and some wearing in.

SS5800EvADer

can anyone show me some good "how to's" on cutting the comm

im a brushless guy and i dont no how i already have a lathe

FrankB2

My tranny seemed to turn more freely/smoother after I installed a metal idler. The stock plastic idler has a bit of a concave
shape to the teeth (at least mine did), and was wearing away quickly. Cool Video!

EvaderJuice

I recently got an (electric) evader st and have had a little bit of trouble. One of my rear axils have come off and i dont know what to get for a replacement. I'm looking for a better rear axil set overall though, so i dont have the same trouble.

EVADER + JUICE = Evader Juice

cheech4

WELCOME TO THE TEC,

the nitro cvd's will work for the electric you can use them there stronger.

EvaderJuice

Thanx

EVADER + JUICE = EvaderJuice

rcmaster103

I guess the Mamba and the Moabs are just too much for the plastic idler in between two metal gears.

EvaderAnubis

Why not try the aluminum idler with the B2 diff set-up instead? Others seem to be having good luck with that?

rcmaster103

Yeah, probably a good idea. I did have one a while ago and it tore up, but I think it would be good to try it again.

raz54

I would dump that alloy diff gear myself instead of tearing up an idler.

cjg

I had my BX out for the first time since last summer today. Forgot how much fun to drive that thing is!

dingraha

[sm=confused.gif]just got a new servo as recommended by you guys (a Spektrum JR Z590Mg). anyway, how do you fit it with the different horns?[:@]

FrankB2

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHEG0&P=Z
Here's one way of getting the horns. Give Hobby Services a call, and ask if you can get a single horn, or just the
horn set.

dingraha

thanks

JMHZ2401

I got a JR Z650Mg servo. I did not have to get new horns. I swapped everything from my stock servo over.

cheech4

if you have the servo horn set, you need the one with the letter J for the z590 servo.

JMHZ2401

How long has everyones clutch disk lasted? I have been getting this soft sqeal noise when I first hit the throttle. I had just loosened my slipper a few days before it started. I have tightened down more, but wondering if the clutch disk is getting bad. Any signs to look for? I'm hoping to race for the first time this weekend.

cjg

Also check to see if the brass bushing in the shaft of the slipper clutch as a "lip" worn on one edge. That can cause slipping even when tightened all the way down. Simply file the lip off until you get replacement.

Have you also tried new pads?

A somewhat harsher "squaking" sound on takeoff may be the ball diff needing a rebuild.

JMHZ2401

That is a better saying for the noise. I had also just loosened the diff some as well. It is really lose. The last time the diff was apart it had some wear. I'm sure by now it needs to be rebuilt.

raz54

The slipper is supposed to squeal a little for the first couple feet on hard acceleration. If it doesn't you have it set too tight.

JMHZ2401

This is not that squeal. I'm use to that one. I think CJG is right and it is a diff noise. I will check it out.

JMHZ2401

Well we now have 2 local off road tracks. They are both holding money races over the next 2 weekends. One is having a novice class. My friend just got a Stempede, so I'm trying to get him to race with me. We have bashed together and it has been fun!!! He has more speed than me, but I think my handling and torque is much better. The track for this weekend is a faster track with more long runs in it. Next weeks track has more turns in it. Hopefullly my diff will hold together for 2 more weeks.

EvaderAnubis

If you need hinge pins, Tower has the Pro set for $2.13, normally $6.29: [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LR0032&P=DS]Hinge Pins BX/ST Pro[/link]
pack of 10 2.5x12mm Spring Pins are $1.34, normally $1.79: [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LR0393&P=DS]Spring Pins[/link]

I check Towers overstock and clearance pages once in a while, if you guys are intested I could post any finds here in the thread. Of course the sale prices would probably only last a day or two, if that.


I have a couple questions for you guys...
What eexactly is the purpose of the diff? Why is having it too tight bad? I understand what happens when it's loose.
What size allen drivers are needed to take care of everything on the Vader? I have one that fits the grub screws on the pinions (forget what size that one is at the moment). What's the best way to pop the cups off the ball ends? I was just sticking an allen wrench under the indent on the cup and prying it off that way, but it's starting to wear into the parts that the ball studs are screwed into, I'm afraid that's going to weaken the parts or even even break them.

raz54

The diff allows the outter wheel to turn at a faster rate than the inner one when turning like a real car. If the diff is too tight it's like having a spool and the wheels want to turn at the same speed which will cause it spin out instead of turning. I made a spool a while back and it was almost un-drivable. I had to ease into the throttle just to get going in a straight line and at high speed the slightest turn would cause it to spin out. On the other hand if the diff is too loose and slips too much excessive heat will build up and melt the diff gear.

cheech4

to loose of a diff, will make the diff balls melt the diff of spinninng to fast. to tight of a diff, will make ur car wheelie like crazy and put stress on the teeth of the gear hence stripping diff gear teeth or the idler. it got to be the right mix, not to tight and not to lose. to set it correctly tighten it all the way and then back it off about 1/8 of a turn to a 1/4 of a turn.