pede_187

oh well thanks but I'm actually not going to run the mashers. They were just left over from my stampede and they were pretty much all I had that would work so I threw them on.

I'm going to be running HPI Geolandars with [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=&FVSEARCH=LXJK62+LXJK63]these[/link] rims dyed black with either a white or black Desert Rat body.

rc theman

Thanks warhead

Krawlin

New update for me. Finally got my Maxx running again. Turns out that the spider gears in the front diff did not strip, it was actually the inner pinion support bearing, it was shredded. So I replaced that and now it works great! Also added 4 Traxxas Big Bore shocks in addition to my OFNA Ultra LX One shocks, OFNA doesn't sell springs that are stiff enough, so I had to add the big bores with custom dual rate springs so it wouldn't constantly bottom out and handle like crap.

pede_187

Ok, heres some new pics. Desert Rat body painted purple with HPI Geolandars and [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=&FVSEARCH=LXJK62+LXJK63&search=Go]these[/link] traxxas 2.2 wheels dyed black. Kinda messed up and got some glue on the outside of the rim[:@]

Krawlin

The glue making the white spots is normal. It goes away after a while.


A bit of another update for me. The rear endbell came off my Medusa, did a quick fix with CA glue since its a glued/press fit type endbell, used CA for now until I could get some red Loctite gel, which according to a thread on RCM, works better than epoxy since Loctite is for bonding metal to metal. Also added 4 shocks more shocks for a total of 8, with custom dual rate springs. Having just the four 1/8 shocks just wasn't enough, couldn't get springs that were stiff enough, so adding 4 Traxxas Big Bores with stiff springs helped alot. It handles alot better and doesn't bottom out all the time.

Wild YFZ 450

+1 to speed it up spray some WD-40 on a rag and rub it off, Works like a charm

Redvanmafia

i got the same brushless except i run 3s, how do you like it?

pede_187

I got it in December and I love the motor, but in the first 2 months I went through 2 ESC's which Horizon Replaced for free. I'm thinking that they might have changed something because I haven't had a problem since then and lots of other people were having problems around the time I got mine. Other than the troubles at first, I think it's great.

Redvanmafia

i just broke the stock fan fins off bashing around, (im not sure how), but i have 2 novak 30mm fans on order one for the esc and one for the motor, i was up at the cottage bashing around and my stupidity i drove thru a puddle, the esc totaly stoped working only the servo would work, no forward no reverse, but i knew my reciver and servo were fine, i took a hairdryer to it for about 20 minutes heated the whole esc up to 180f with the dryer gave it a try and it worked great, the only problem i have is reverse has never worked from day one doesnt matter what i do, but ive gotten used to it not having it, its a total beast strongest brushless ive used, and stays very cool

pede_187

I think I have an answer for you. If the ESC gets even the slightest bit wet, it will automatically shutoff till it drys out and a yellow light will turn on on the side of the esc. And I belive that out of the box it doesn't have reverse but I think if you use the programming card you can program it to do so. I know you can with the USB programming adaptor.

Krawlin

New update, my Maxx is going to be getting a major overhaul.

New parts list-


- Two Turnigy 3600mAh 4S 30C packs to run in parallel for extra runtime and high amp output - http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idproduct=9506
TOTAL COST = $94.64


- 3.3 Conversion, which includes -
- 4x Revo Sliders - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMJG8&P=Z
- 2x Revo Knuckles (pairs) - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUTG2&P=M
- 1x Pivot ball dust boots and caps - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUTH5&P=M
- 2x 12x18 Bearings - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHFT1&P=7
- 2x 6x12 Bearings - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHFS8&P=7
- 1x Wheel Nuts - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTKR1&P=7
- 1x Front Turnbuckles (will upgrade to Tubes some other time) - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMJE0&P=Z
- 1x Rear Turnbuckles (will upgrade to Tubes some other time) - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMJE1&P=Z
- 1x Rod Ends Large - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHGB7&P=Z
- 1x Hollow Rod End Balls/Shims - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHGC9&P=Z
- 1x Axle Pins - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSP61&P=7
TOTAL COST = $129.54

This will bring my Maxx up to 3.3 spec.



- UE Monoblock chassis extension - http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...ore/13236.html
TOTAL COST = $72


- Center shafts - since I am getting a chassis extension, I will need a new rear center drive shaft.
- 1x Yokes - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMJG9&P=Z
- 1x Stub Axle - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHFY7&P=Z
- 1x Half Shafts - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHFY1&P=Z
TOTAL COST = $15.87

This will basically make my center drive shaft. I have to cut the threads off the stub axle and use them to make a custom output for the center diff so I can use a standard yoke for the sliders.


TOTAL COST OF EVERYTHING = $312.05


Not all that bad IMO, the 3.3 conversion is a bit expensive, but I would really like to bring my Maxx up to date. Should handle alot better and look alot better with all of this. Can't wait to get started on this!


EDIT: I just thought of this, pretty much everything for the 3.3 conversion is on www.amainhobbies.com and they usually have lower prices so I will probably save a few bucks from ordering from them, or use a tower discount code.

Krawlin

New Update, just ordered the following from www.amainhobbies.com -


- 4x Revo Sliders
- 2x Revo Knuckles (pairs)
- 2x Pivot ball dust boots and caps (set of 4)
- 2x 12x18 Bearings (pairs)
- 2x 6x12 Bearings (pairs)
- 1x Wheel Nuts (set of 4)
- 1x Front Turnbuckles (pairs)
- 1x Rear Turnbuckles (pairs)
- 1x Hollow Rod End Balls/Shims (set of 4)
- 1x Axle Pins (set of 4)
- 1x Yokes (pairs)
- 1x Half Shafts (pairs)

I still need the Revo large rod ends and Revo stub axles, which I will get off of ebay.

Total Cost For What I Ordered - $131.20 Shipped

I got all of this from www.amainhobbies.com and without a discount and with shipping costs, it was still cheaper than www.towerhobbies.com with a discount and free shipping.

warheadforever

Man dose your maxx rock. LOL


Well, I have just got my order form New era, Krawlin, I think you know what I am talking about. LOL

[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSLU9&P=ML]ESC[/link]

[link=http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?session_id=&part_id=291]Chassis[/link]

[link=http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?session_id=&part_id=292]4 links[/link]

[link=http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?session_id=&part_id=296]Rear Steer Eliminator[/link]

[link=http://http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?session_id=&part_id=2195]Upper 4 link adapter [/link]

[link=http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?session_id=&part_id=295]Steering Servo Adapter[/link]

Lilredmachine

[sm=wink_smile.gif]

Heh, motor is just to test gear mesh on the 0.8 mod gears. I've got something more potent lined up to go in. I'm expecting pretty catastrophic tranny failure, followed by a total rebuild job with an alloy tranny case. Woop.

calvino

Littleredmachine, nice looking slash, just curious if you have a link to the motor your running/planning to run since I am debating turning one of my cars into an overkill machine complete with b-less and a few custom parts

Lilredmachine

Done. Power. Power. Power.

It's a bit silly really.

Krawlin

Looks like it should be alot of fun with that much power on tap! What are the motor/ESC/battery temps?


New pics of the new parts on my Maxx coming soon!

Krawlin

Just ran my Maxx, and with these new parts, it is alot different handling wise. It is quite a bit wider now, and it seems more nimble, but I am not used to it yet, so it seemed like it was handling strangely. And I have found a couple of weak links and parts that I need to replace.

The rear linkages are kind of off, they cause the truck to have some rear bump steer even though the toe in is set right, and it shouldn't do that. Also, I already broke a rear outer rod end on one of the links. I will be upgrading it to RPM True-Track, which has a fixed rear toe setting and no linkages.

The front wheels are getting a bit sloppy, and can move either direction quite a bit. I need to get a new servo saver, so I will be upgrading it to either the steering setup on the new 3905 E-Maxx or getting a new Kimbrough servo saver.

My front bumper mounts have pretty much had it and they are constantly popping off. I will be ordering new bumper mounts.

Lilredmachine

All three are pretty insignificant. I started out geared 17/54 which is around 75 mph and couldn't get above 1/3rd throttle with it attemtping to take off. The motor got a bit warm then. Now running 15/54 and it's a bit happier.

Lilredmachine

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qll8I7-mYVE

Little video of it in action, really poor quality though.

warheadforever

Here are the pics of the Clod, [8D]

Oh, and by the way, as you can see, at random, the last DTX thing I own broke,......I have only used that battery once.....










I by far, do not recommend NEW ERA, they make a good product, but, they don include, all the hardware that you need to put this together, I had to make the spacers for the shocks, I had to make the front steer work, and I have to make new body mount' so I can put the body on it.

I have the ESC, and the right batteries on the way, they should be here ether Friday, or Monday.

bandaro

ok, time to show all you bolt on noobs how a real beater is built:











more pictures here: http://s776.photobucket.com/albums/y...daro/?newest=1

Krawlin

That thing is sweet, but we aren't noobs.... Noobs are people who upgrade rustlers with TVP style chassis....


Seriously though, nice work. Did you do the CAD designing and milling/CNC machining yourself? That front plate is very cool also.

What motor are you running in that? Running LiPo too?


Be sure to keep us updated!

bandaro

yup, designed and made it myself, and its not cnc cut, its all done with a dremel, angle grinder, and sandpaper, lol... got the flm tranny, and wide mod up front, plus ive since broken the camber links up front, so have made a set of 5mm steel, no way they are breaking :P

designed it up on google sketchup, coz its free and i dont have autocad yet, lol.

and i know you arnt a noob, but you have to admit, how many cars have you seen that the owners claim are custom, when all they have done is bolt in a comercially available kit from flm... i mean sure, it is strong and looks good, but every second person has it, so its hardly custom, hence its bolt on noobs

anyways, im running a mm esc (obviously) and a medusa 3300kv motor, with a set of 30c 3s 5000mah batts, this thing really flies, specially since i have it geared 21/56. its geared to the moon, but still doesnt get hot motor sits around 60, esc 70 and batts are cold. if i run my cheapie 15c 2s 4000mah lipo's then the esc heats up like a b****, so i think ill add a few caps to them, or keep them for my tt01, nice and easy for them.

Krawlin

Wow, for being done with basic garage tools, that is really nice!

I have used Sketchup for some stuff before, but found it to be annoying after a while. I also tried a autoCAD on a friend's computer, and I found it to be annoying because it's so complicated!

And that is true, I agree with you there. That is kind of why I made my own center diff setup for my Maxx. It is made from commercially available parts, but all of the parts had to be modified to work, and no one else has the exact same setup. However, I am tempted to get a whole center diff setup machined by Mike over at RC-Monster.com. He makes top notch nitro-to-electric conversion stuff, and other RC parts in general.

And that is odd that the ESC gets hot on 2S but no 3S. I was going to say because the 3S pack can better supply the amps to the motor than the 2S pack, but you didn't say the 2S battery gets hot, just the ESC, which basically throws that theory out the window.

Also, how are the upright plates connected to the bottom plate? If they aren't connected anywhere in the middle, maybe make a a long L shaped piece, drill a few holes in the upright plates, bottom plate, and the L pieces, and bolt them all together. That would make the whole chassis alot more rigid and alot less likely to bend in a crash.






A new update on my E-Maxx....

Ran it again after fixing that messed up rear rod end, and I broke another rear rod end. So I am for sure be getting RPM True-Track.

I am currently bidding on a Diemaker Dave Wingmount on Ebay, they bolt onto UE Knucklehead shock towers and UE EXT shock towers and use a Mugen MBX5-T wing stay, which I will also be ordering.

Also ordering UE Knucklehead shock towers, UE Monoblock chassis extension, and FLM Hyrbid 1/8 diff bulkheads so I can use my spare Mugen MBX5-T diffs in my Maxx, which are way beefier than stock because they are 1/8 truggy diffs, and have helical cut ring/pinion gears so they will be very quiet.

List Of Stuff Being Ordered -

- Diemaker Dave Wingmount for UE Knucklehead shock towers ~ about $35 shipped
- UE Knucklehead shock towers (pair) ~ about $42 shipped if I buy new
- UE Monoblock chassis extension ~ about $80 shipped if I buy new
- FLM Hybrid bulkheads for 1/8 diffs ~ about $150 shipped if I buy new
- RC-Monster 1/8 diff output shafts, which replaces the outdrive cups on 1/8 diffs so I can use Revo sliders. ~ about $22 shipped if I buy new
- RPM True Track plus the needed hing pins ~ about $55 shipped

Total Price ~ about $384

After this overhaul, it shouldn't need anything else other than more LiPo's. It will be one hell of a tough machine when it's done though!

EDIT: Might hold off on the new FLM bulks for a while, I still need to get a 2.4 GHz system and a bunch of receivers for everything.