billdozer1983

My Feedback: (27)

I use a hot racing drive shaft with a flux setup and have no problems with it.

GeEzUs

The Hot Racing driveshaft is what I bent. There are not any others out there? I don't want to keep buying this driveshaft.

billdozer1983

My Feedback: (27)

Hpi makes a aluminum drive shaft and i believe ya racing does as well but i might be wrong on the ya racing

SIRCC

just curious does an e10 hves a locked diff, open diff one way?

GeEzUs

The E10 has locked and one way diffs as optional hop up parts. I have the locked diff in the rear and it has been so far the best investment i've done for it. I also have the one way diff and it counteracts the locking diff in the rear so much it makes it harder to maintain drift unless you have a modified motor.

As a side note, I sorted some issues before I begin a practice drift session & shortly after my E10 destroyed a rear hub/disc brake. It looks like it got hot and melted or rubbed against the hub carrier and cut itself out. Your opinons are needed. Now I have an excuse to upgrade to aluminum hubs now. There's a saying in modifying 1:1 muscle/race cars..."you're not going fast if you're not breaking something." So I'm pretty happy with my setup so far and I haven't done any power adders yet! Hopefully countersteer soon!

phmaximus

hummm i dont like oneway diffs, not a big fan on rear brakes only & 2 wheel drive in reverse, & how fast tamiya ones fail.

How on earth did u bend the main drive shaft??? must of been one hell of a crash, if it was caused by excessive power one would expect it to twist, but then againe anything is possible with the cheaper upgrades, when possible try to stock with the HPI parts

billdozer1983

My Feedback: (27)

Can you post a pic of the bent drive shaft just courious how it looks

GeEzUs

phmaximus I totally agree with you about one way. I had no idea until after I installed it and I quickly removed it after experiencing all those faults. I couldn't tell you how I bent the center shaft, maybe chassis-flex? It has not been in any accidents/crashes. I put the stock HPI centershaft back in because it will not bend, it will flex or completely break. I pretty much use everything HPI that's not purple, so I went with the Hot Racing center shaft. Otherwise I could do the YR conversion kit if I wanted to go purple. Trying for function and style. Purple is a bit "fruity" for my tastes. I may try looking into some HB parts as well and get this build into CS glory.

billdozer1983 I will get pics when I came back home from the road. My job has me in 6 cities within a 3 week span.

Jesterspeed

Hello, I'm new to the forum, new to rc cars, but not to modeling or airbrushing.

Got my new E10 Ford GT RTR as a gift, and immediately replaced the drive shaft with the aluminum one, removed the 22T and added a 28T pinion gear, and aluminum strut tower bars. NOT to mention I did up a Lotus Elise body for my new ride. Nothing fancy.

However, being a newcomer to rc, I wanted to add more power without blowing the bank account. So, would switching from the HPI Saturn 27T motor to the Saturn 20T improve speed?

I know (from reading this VERY extensive forum thread) that I'll be adding in the HPI Adjustable Shock set on both the front and rear, but since I don't actually race, but want it to go fast on my street/parking lot.

So once I figure out IF the 20T motor would improve the speed, I'll add in the shocks, aluminum motor mount, and replace the universal drive shafts.

GeEzUs

That's a nice gift you got there buddy. I'm loving that body! If you want to go fast I'd suggest a higher turn motor for top speed, and lower turn motors for bottom end torque and less top speed.

FireFrenzy

I tried a 9t ezrun system but that just eats gears so i ripped that out and am now experimenting with the 12t motor from my traxxas slash... See what that does...

GeEzUs

Fire did you change the size of your pinion gears when you jumped down to a 9T? I was under the impression switching to a motor that high on torque you must change gears otherwise risk damaging a lot.

somerenegade

Jesterspeed -  I think I read somewhere that the stock ESC, EN-1, can handle motors 21 turns and above (according to the manufacturer). Worst case scenario you would need a new ESC if the lower turn motor (20T) burns up the stock ESC. I don't have any experience matching up motors to ESC's so maybe one of the more experienced guys can chime in here. I do know that the stock ESC in the HPI Sprint 2 (SC-15 which can handle motors 15 turns and above) can be had on ebay for a decent price but you may find when you add it all up brushless might be the way to go. If you haven't already, you should upgrade the plastic bushings to one of the ball bearing sets available.

billdozer1983

My Feedback: (27)

Yes i agree first thing you should do is change the bushings to bearings. Where you plan on going with a faster motor you would probly only get 6 runs tops before they melt.And i run a hpi 15 turn moter and sc 15 esc in my wife'scar and that go's preety good or if you want 2 spend a little more money i run a hpi flux setup in mying and thatfly's.Mying is the camaro her's is the mustang

GeEzUs

Anybody knows a site where I find aluminum hubs that fit HPI Universal driveshafts? My E10 sorta cooked my stock ones. I got some aluminum ones from YR and they only fit stock setups. My car is down until I get some that fit.

phmaximus

hey bud sorry to spoil it its the other way around
lower turns = more speed/less torque
Higher turns = less speed/more torque

agreed sick body

yeah racing make the alloy hubs/fake brake disc, check ebay (thay are gumby tho, like there alloy calipers the front & rear ones are the same size??? idiots!!
oops i dident read ur post proplary..... ????? thay dont fit???

still havent damaged any gears on a 3900kv motor.... hummmm i have noticed that the motor mount comes loose, so each battery i re-check it (yeah racing motor & ESC same as ezrun) very reliable even when wet

when u change motors u dont have to change the pinion, but its reccomended, iwith the brushless motor (more speed & more torque) on a 19t pinion it was stupidle under geared now run a 34t without the gear cover, & on 11.1v its still under geared, u wont belive the torque & speed from a brushless setup, compared to stock...... well u cant.

go brushless, brushed motors are old news & have poor preformance.
the new ezrun combos even support USB... & u can still use the programcards too.

trust me its impressive when ya have a mate with a nitro car & u pull out the program card or a laptop & start adjustting the brake drag force, punch, reverse power... ect ect
& then u guys race & u kick his ass

Jesterspeed

Thanks for the input people...

So, I can pick up the Saturn 20T for around $20, and add in the new shocks, which - pardon the pun - are shockingly expensive.  Also, I'll upgrade to the bushings to bearings.

I've already been on the street, and I do like the car.  Just needs some fine tuning...

Thanks again!

FireFrenzy

Tinkered with the gearing until i got it to a decent temperature but didnt really do much else...

Jesterspeed

Per HPI Racing, whom I emailed to pose the question, the EN-1 only can handle up to a 21T motor.  Thus the 20T motor would be just a bit too much.

Now, I'm sure I could alleviate some of the heat by adding in the aluminum motor mount, but I'm not into it that far.

I guess if I really want to go faster, I'll buy a Sprint 2 Flux RTR and add onto that, and give my 13 year-old this car. 

Thanks for the comments and the input!

somerenegade

Geezus-The Yeah Racing Alloy hubs don't fit the HPI universal drive shafts? That sucks.Hot Racing makes some but you might have the sameproblem with them too..

I finally got around to trimming and sprayinga Tamiya 350Zshell. I like the Tamiya sinceit came with light buckets butits pretty skinny. My wheels stick a good amount out of the wheel wells and I'm not using the spacers at all.Here's some pics.

GeEzUs

I ordered another set of hubs, if all else fails I'll have to replace with more El Cheapo stock ones That's a nice looking 350Z is that a 190mm? What all HPI bodies come with light buckets? Or even non-HPI bodies in 200mm?

somerenegade

Thanks! Yep its 190mm. I think a 3mm offset would fit perfect in the rear. Right now I have 6mm offset wheels there and they stick out a little obnoxiously. I'm not sure which HPIbodies come withlight buckets. It would be nice to have a list of them for sure.Tamiya doesn't offer many 200mm bodies.. ordo they? Hopefully the new hubs work out forya.

I've been experimenting with 25wt shock oil in the front and 35 wt oil in the back. I'm not sure I like it. What's the theory with shock oil weight?Does thicker oil provide more damping?Damping does what exactly?

phmaximus

not to shure if u get it, but get a ezrun brushless setup... thay are under $100 if thats to much, u can buy them peice by peice
then just work out how fast u want it, dont know if u know but if u times the input voltage by the kv rating it gives u the max rpm from the motor, then adding the gear ratio & wheel size u can work out the cars top speed

here is one i worked out for a HBX bonzer 4x4

a 2200kv motor on 8.4v does 18480rpm (2200x8.4=18480)

the Circumferencec of a 108mm wheel is 339.3mm (2xttx(108/2)=339.3)

in a 19t pinion with normal gear set the motor truns 7.96 to one full wheel rotation

so for each motor rpm the car moves 42.6mm (339.3/7.96=42.6)

if the motor is doing 18480rpm the car is traviling 787248mm/min (18480x42.6=787248)

147100.8mm/min = 47.2 km/h (used web page)

phmaximus

somerenegade sweet car body.... a nice exhaust tip would make it. i sware light buckets make the car.

Hows for the AE86 i had to use yokomo ones

somerenegade

I have an exhaust tip but even small bumps on the side of the body knock it off. I've used 3 types of doublesided tape but nothing seems to work. I'm reluctant to use screws since you'd be able to see them but I'm not sure what else will work.

In case anybody was wondering I haven't put my RS4 3 shocks on my E10 yet. I picked up a used HPI Sprint v.1. Its not all that different than the v.2 (just older) so I'm updating/upgrading on a budget and the RS4 3 shocks went to it instead. 

As far as the E10, the RS4 3 shocks will work with the Atomic Oil Conversion Set but you will need different springs and they won't be as adjustable as the E10 upgrade shocks. I've seen the stock RS4 3 EVO shocks on ebay for like $10. U add ~$20 for the conversion set(s) (u need 2 @ ~$10 a piece) and ~$10 for the springs and ur lookin at ~$40-45 as an option.