phmaximus

Talk about your E-10 here! All E-10 owners and fans welcome!

phmaximus

Hay all, ive had my E-10 for about 6 months now & i love it, its the first electric touring car ive had. I got it not to race but to drift & i like the way u can change the engine layout & the fact that it is a entry level purpose built drift car. ive found with some upgrades it can be a very fast drift car. there is not many upgraded parts yet but from what i can see thay are coming, HPI & Yeah Racing have a few parts but thay are hard to find. as time goes on im sure they will be more readily availble.

Here is my HPI E-10 (kit form) Toyota AE-86 Levin

Upgrades

Alloy main tail shaft
CV shafts & Rubber Boots
front & rear swaybars
adjustable oil filled shocks
heatsink with fan
rear spool
alloy areial mount
saturn 27t motor
TF-10 transmitter (changing to 2ch, using this for nitro car)
RF-10 reciver (changing to 2ch, using this for nitro car)
SF-2 servo (changing to SF-1, using this for nitro car)
RC line "No Limit" ESC
3000mAh 7.4v Lipo
Novak Lipo Cut off
4mm GOLD BULLET Motor Connector
Deans "T" Battery Connectors
intercooler, mirror & exhaust kit
yokomo light buckets + leds
alloy strut tower braces
Pinion Gears 22t, 24t, 26t, 28t, 30t, 32t & 34t

im currently developing adjustiable Tie rods & upper controll arms

phmaximus

ok, ive gone from a SF-2 steering servo to a SF-1 & it drives the same, so i gess the E-10 does not need much torque to steer. also i did a very stupit thing to my SC-15 esc (supplyed too manny volts) & it went up in smoke, so was forced to use my RC line PC-No-limit ESC. i miss the old one the engine was more responsive, it now takes longer to reach peak rev's. I thing i need to change the power curve of the ESC but, i dont know how to or even turn off ABS. Ive ordered a alloy battery lockdown plate that should suck some heat from the battery & some self adhesive foam body pads that should stop the boddy rattling on the polls. Ill let ya know, how it goes.

phmaximus

just a quick update, i got the alloy battery holder with cooling fins, it great, only thing is i had to mount the areial in the aux spot. also the hpi body pads have stoped the body from rattling but it might need to pads at the front, still yet to find some clear ones for the rear. still waiting for the 2s lipo cut off. & ummm thats about it.

The Hedgehog

I have the E-10 drift, just got my alloy shaft in I have to install that one. Nice rides guys!

sheograth

I tired the E-10, found it way too low in quality though. More like a Toy grade, real insult to HPI's normal cars and trucks. In any case, to each his/her own.

phmaximus

hummmmm... u cant say that with out saying why? can u?, well mine was $100, so i gess it was cheeper than a K-Mart r/c car, but i would say its heaps better than a toy, it has upgrade parts, tuneability & handles very good out of the box. & its one of the few r/c cars than u can adjust the caster. shure it is made out of plastic but plastic is up to the job, mine hasent fallen appart. also ive read that some people have had problems with the bearing "race" falling out of the diff , ive since found out by trial & error that it falls out from putting the main shafts in the wrong way, people even complained about it been noisy, shure it is, but if u adjust the gear mesh correctly (forget about markings & use paper to make a gap) its fine. ive only broken one part, it was a wheel hub/fake brake disk but it was my faut i left a wheel screw loose. has anyone broken any parts using HPI or yeah racing parts???? serously whats wrong with it, i cant fault it.

ps i have more fun with mine then my Walkera 52, Tamiya BajaKing, HBX CrossTiger, Great Vigor V2 nitro car

The Hedgehog

I was waiting for the classic negative post for when someone starts a thread of the car they like.

So what was low quality? Nothing to back it up just means he is following what one user posted with his bad experiences (magnat)

bashingozzy

Its good to see another Adelaide boy

Iv been thinking of buying one but not sure what the quality is like and parts are worth.

is there many gear ratios for this car?

phmaximus

ive found the quality to be the same as any other car, in fact the plastic seems to be not as britle as some. most parts are well priced, some very cheep, but the oil filled shocks & metal cv joints are expensive, INTEGY offer a tower brace to fit normal shocks at a very cheep price, as for the gear ratios u can get anything from 19t to 35t in hpi brand, tamiya pinion gears also work fine but ive found with stock motor 24t pinion is better than the stock 22t, i ran a 13 turn motor with a 17t pinion with 11.1V lipo, & god damm it was fast it could drift on standard rubber, faster than most lower end nitro cars. Only thing was, the brushes were burning out after about 10min so ive reverted back to stock. but it does show it has potential to be fast with out failing. im curently devloping adjustable tie rods & controll arms using yeah racing parts, that should give all the tuneability needed. its going to take up to 45 days for manifacturing tho .

go Adelaide lol

phmaximus

oh forgot to say, the HPI upgrade shocks are the best ive ever seen, the quality in unmatchable, the main body is aloy, with a plastic endcap, oil filled with a speical tool to remove cap for servicing, 24 diffrent rate springs (216g/mm to 540g/mm etc) thay have the normal adjustable spring tension as well as adjustable shock length

"Bolt a set of Adjustable Height Shocks to your E10 for increased suspension performance, extra adjustability, custom looks and faster lap times! These shocks have threaded aluminum bodies and an adjustment wrench for fast ride height adjustments, just like coilovers for real cars! Standard features include silicone shock oil for consistent damping over a wide range of temperatures, an internal bladder to prevent oil frothing, silicone o-rings for smooth movement, and street tuned springs. Not only do they add performance on the street, they look fantastic too! They come pre-assembled to exact HPI factory specifications for a quick and easy "bolt-in" fit."

phmaximus

here are some videos on the car at night, on some very uneven pavers, with some close calls, not really enuff room for proper drifting but u get the idear.
[link]http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=TFrwJiy7SeM[/link]
[link]http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=LWeBuXMP7ow[/link]
[link]http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=QWJrf3T9zpw[/link]

phmaximus

here are some videos on the car at daytime, on some very uneven pavers, with some close calls, not really enuff room for proper drifting but u get the idear
[link]http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=B_AYhHiNqRQ[/link]
[link]http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=KRbgSSD20qc[/link]
[link]http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=O_vnoflrHrg[/link]

lnc0321

Nice E-10. I have been drifting for a while and drift lots of chassis. A couple of months ago got a good deal on an E-10 and I was impressed. This car is ready to drift out of the box. I really dont understand how people trash this car so much. Maybe they just dont know how to drift. Again this is a really good drift car and I can really keep up with the big boys drifting.. I recently had to sell most of my drifting cars and had to let go of my E-10[]. I really loved this car and for the price it cant be beat. So I think HPI did a good job, they made a pretty good drift car RTR for around $160. Here is some Pics of mine, I really miss it...

phmaximus

hay nice ride, u had the same fan lol, oh man ive allways been a ford man ive got a Aussie 85 LTD, but some how ive ended up with a import/tuner style car, love the mustang allways have, allways will, i wanna get one now. Its a shame there is no light buckets around.

as for the quality i would say the E-10 is the best value R/c car in the world, for the things it does vs the price u cant beat it.

phmaximus

Just an up date ive been replacing all the screws with alloy ones, will post pics soon

bashingozzy

I love the old fords I used to have a 4.1 FE LTD nice car but then got into the import scene and now drive a R33 GTS-T and R31 with a rb20det for drift fun.

solo13

My Feedback: (3)

I was thinking about using this car for TA racing. Has anyone donr that yet. if so whats your setup

phmaximus

hay whats TA racing????

solo13

My Feedback: (3)

Trans Am racing, it use body from 60 an 70 type cars. like cuba an mustang also camaro

phmaximus

oh man thats sick, is there any limitations to car mods? because the E-10 does not have any camber or toe adjustment. but it seem to have a good stock setup so i dont know

drewpyfz6

The E10 looks really nice - was going to buy the HPI Mustang body shell for my HBX Post 5, but ended up getting the whole car.

Its not been outside yet, but looks great. And its just been reduced by £10 from a uk seller. Less than £100 now.

stroke28

Heyz guys, though I don't own an E10, I must admit that your ridez all look great. Top job to you guys on the look of your cars, truly 'sweet' lookin
Glad I browsed, I might just have to check out my LHS today and give it a scan.

stroke28

don't understand why people need to be so negative, more so if this thread if for fans?

drewpyfz6

Got a questions for people that have had the E10 a while.

While having a first drive outside (the weather has been poor).
I noticed the car grounds a lot on my flagged drive.

I lifted the body up, as high as the pegs adjust.
But still seemed to get some scape...

Noticed its marking the underside of the chassis as well.

Anyway, I have also noticed the wheels seem to wobble a little.
I thought at first the wheel screws may have been loose, but they are not.

I can hold a wheel and it moves a couple of mm. After checking, all the wheels do this, and it seems to be the round block the wheels are fastened to? Not sure what its called, but the drive part goes through it. May be a knuckle?

Are they supposed to be a little loose and wobbly?

I am fairly new to this hobby, so still learning.
None of my other RC vehicles are like this.

Many thanks in advance,
Drew