soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

Me too. I cut the servo lead, spliced in a long lead, and wouldn't you know I got the inboard splice right where it comes out of the wing and has to flex[:@], now I have to resplice it. As Forest said 'stupid is as stupid does' , I wish I had thought ahead a little.

mludwin

My Feedback: (3)

Wiring is done! Whew. I had a servo go bad and had to replace it. Not sure why, but it frustrated me for an hour. Here's a few picks of how I finished up. I wired both the same. One of the airbrake servos will need to be reversed wired. I'm planning on doing it inside of the fuse

mludwin

My Feedback: (3)

I just made up a tow hook release. Comments?

The plan is to set it over the hole in the fuse and then replace the former over it with heavier ply for added strength. Do you think it would be worth added a layer of fiberglass in the tow release area?

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

Inside the fuse? To wire a servo for reversed don't you do that at the pot IN the servo? Can't you just slave a channel off the spoiler channel and reverse the servo with the Tx? I'm using a 9 CAP Super for a TX, what are you using?

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

I didn't get as far as you did yet, but I'll be working on it until about 0100.

I'm using HS-125MG for my spoilerons.

I got tired of chasing the leads around, so I stopped for five minutes and made a wiring jig, I said I was going to do this ten years ago, but never did. It's just three pieces of fuel tubing glued to a board, slit so you can get the wires out when you're done, I also cut away half the tubing in the center, you may cut it all away, but I find the back half helps me soldier.

mludwin

My Feedback: (3)

I never thought of doing at the servo, what did Forest say??? I've never had to before. But I get it.

Radio wise I'm not sure. I have a Futaba 6XA that I have never used, or I could go with the Eclispe 7 I have everything else on.

Right now I'm tearing the shop apart trying to find the y-cords I put some place I wouldn't forget [:@] Once I find them I'll be able to put it all together and finish setting up the servos. I'm pressing to get this off the bench. The kit I want to build this winter should be here this week http://www.skysharkrc.com/me109g.htm


How are things going on your end?

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

I just thought of this, do you have a MIRACLE Y connector it does what you want, drive the servos opposite directions on the same channel.

About half way down the page.

http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-5.html

If you just flop the leads at the servo plug the servo will just drive one way and sit there and melt.

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

I think I've slaved a channel like this on my Eclispe 7, so that would probably work. With the Futaba be careful, I don't have a 6XA, but on my 7CAP if you slave a channel, the trim is NOT slaved, but that might work out ok on a spoiler, bad on the elevator[:@]

mludwin

My Feedback: (3)

Rolling Stones on the Super Bowl, who would a thought. My buddies back in PA are going nuts.

I setup the Futaba, I've got it mine as well use it. It set up quick, Spoileron are called airbrake on the radio. I used the throttle for the kit's airbrakes I went and reversed the servo internally, here's a link I found for others to referance

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_12.../tm.htm#120355

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

This is how my wing turned out.

I just sealed the top of the spoilers shut.

This is how much spoileron throw I get with them up. I used about the same on my ASK-21, it gave very slight pitch-up on opening, so little I never mix in elevator.

I set my controls up now with no adjustments. I have thr radio on while I install each servo, get it right the first time you don't need no stinking adjustments.

I just tape the covers on, there's no load on them.

I had to glue the servos in, I thought the mounting wood was oak, it was balsa, so rather than dig it all out I just put some five minutee epoxy over the servo screws[&o]

mludwin

My Feedback: (3)

Looking good Rich! We'll need a big field for test flights soon.

I almost expoxied the servos myself. I used the kit's screws to attach the covers, but do I like the tape on the covers.

I closed the night by glueing the tow release and wingtips in place. I didn't use the pins on the wingtips, just cut the covering clear on the tip and epoxied the tips on using paper tape to hold them. They worked out ok.

With any luck I'll get home earley from work this week and finish up. The wing attachments and canopy should wrap it up for me.

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

Did you notice there's no mention of a tow hook in the instuctions?

Do you have your fuse servos in?

slopemeno

My Feedback: (2)

I got to fly one on the slope this weekend. Conditions were windy as all get-out, and not too lifty, but I looped it and did some tight turns, and it flew great. The canopy latch is a bit, er, sub-optimal. I would pick up some rare-earth magnets and make a magnetic latch- so much cleaner than stock.

If you insist on towing this thing from the ground, use "armpit" hooks. This ises two tow hooks placed right under the wing just ahead of the CG. They help prevent over-rotation caused by the tow hook being so far below the wing.

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

That's good news, I hope it thermals too!

slopemeno

My Feedback: (2)

Yeah, It did fine. I had just flown my own Gerasis DG-800 3.6 meter, so I had a benchmark. My thought was it would be the perfect plane to put a still or video camera on. Very solid and stable feeling in the air.

mludwin

My Feedback: (3)

It is really nice to here some flying news on this kit. How was landing?

slopemeno

My Feedback: (2)

Well, it was incredibly turbulent,cold air on sunday, so needless to say the owner landed it himself. The spoilers are a little rough but the are big and effective. 30 + mph winds will make anything stop in its tracks. I have seen the owner land it in a very small landing area out on the coast in light winds, and thats the acid test. Not the most scale ship in the world, but a great trainer for the 4M planes.

mludwin

My Feedback: (3)

A trainer for 4m is just what I need to hear. I've have been waiting to start flying 4m ships for years. The cost of this kit has made it possible to start without the worry of putting a high $$ ship into the ground.


I have never seen this done before, but will look around to see what others have done. Canopies have never been my strong point when building. On this kit I have the canopy parts cut to size, I was thinking of glueing cockpit base to the clear canopy and using screws at 6 points to hold it assembly in position. While screws will hold it in place, what a pain it would be at the field.

slopemeno

My Feedback: (2)

I would look around for some canopy glue. My personal favorite is E-6000/Goop/Shoe Goo, but you have to be very careful to not get any outside the frame area. You can buy a disposeable syringe at the hardware store and fill it with the glue, tape the canopy in place at the front and rear, and slide the tip of the syringe in between the two surfaces. Gently press down around the edge to make sure its distributed properly.

Magnets work great. I buy them at the local radio Shack or Tap Plastics. I would probably put some sort of pin in the front to locate things, and have the magnets at the rear. I just did a couple of canopies on a 60" racer and an 80" pitcheron, and I'm very happy with the results. A pair of magnets .25" around and about .125" thick have great holding power.

SlopeFlyer33

Tony! You don't like my brute force canopy latch?

I admit it's a big clunky thumb screw thats not exactly beautiful
but its not about to come loose in flight.

The instructions called for a rubber band hold-down but
I could never get them tight enough to feel safe using them.
Magnets sound good- Next time I'm at Radio Shack I'll look for them.

I just used small pieces of double sided foam tape to stick the clear canopy piece to the
white tray piece. A piece of vinyl tape around the edge for trim
covered them up.
I covered the bottom of the white tray with epoxy and carbon fiber to stiffen it.

mludwin

My Feedback: (3)

This will be fun to see how it turns out. A thumb screw is low tech enough for me I've got the glue and double stick tape both on the shelf, guess I'll have to flip a coin.

But it's too late to start on it tonight, we'll just have to see which side of the bed I wake up on.

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

I just finished up my stab drive. I put a Futaba S3151 digital servo in the tail driving a vertical rod, as close to the way they say to do it as I'll ever get to following directions.

I'm now trying to decided if I rip all the wood out of the fuse and lay in Cf.

I may go with the 9 pin jacks for the wing wires.

Just mulling it over now.

slopemeno

My Feedback: (2)

In case you guys missed it Slopeflyer33 is Bruce, the owner of the glider in question. Anyway, check out the rare-earth magnets that radio shack carries...man, I gotta watch out who reads this stuff....

And props to Bruce for flying in that gale on Sunday. It was blasting out there. The wingtips were pumping up and down 6" on launch, but the plane flew off in a very predictable manner. And the canopy was in no danger of falling off......

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

I sealed the tail with sticky trim, it's made from a non shiney plastic, looks bad and is non structual so the trim makes it shine and I have no screwheads sticking out.

I did it now....

Tomorrow I cut the wheel's hole and lay in some CF, I may mold a wheel cover.

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

I cut the hole out for the wheel, the glass where I cut the hole for the wheel was .030 thick, and not real strong.

I added loacal reenforcing around the hole, where the towhook is going, and from the wing rod down. The laid in a layer of CF.

I made a wheel cover using lost foam, the cover is in my autoclave now.