shadowr1

I've been in rc cars for a long time, but I'm new to helis. What does positive / negative pitch and single / duel conversion meen for the tx and rx?

huminski

My Feedback: (23)

Will a walkera 35/36 head work on the falcon? Total assembly, swash, seesaw, head, washout, everything? Looks the same.

bayward

Ajenkins and Gary, thanks for the explanations. I can now see what the extra "points" can do for me. That is, if I actually could fly the Falcon. Thanks again for the time to explain.

Bob

stevennh

Yes it is, much better. The radio is fine, I have never had a glitch or a problem. It feels kind of cheesy, but it works fine.

Why is the Falcon-3d better than the CP Pro? Brushless power stock (nice head speed, solid power). Tail driven tail (no crappy little motor on the tail). Stock HH Gyro (very solid tail control). Twice the all-up weight and quite a bit bigger (much better handling in the wind). All this for only a few more $$$. I have both and never use the Blade CP anymore.

Steve

bilboa

Here's a page I found that explains pitch curves and throttle curves with some diagrams. Look at the throttle curve diagram, which graphs the relationship between the stick position and the throttle setting. Note that whether your transmitter has a 3 point or 5 point throttle curve, the transmitter will interpolate the rest of the curve between the points you can configure. So it's never the case that if for example you have a 100, 80, 100 throttle curve, that your throttle jumps suddenly from 100% to 80% as you move the stick. It always changes gradually according to the curve you have set. It's just that the more points on the curve you can configure, the more control you have over the shape of the curve.

http://www.swift-tuning.com/curves.php

bayward

Thanks again ajenkins. That was an excellent site for explaining throttle and pitch curves.

Bob

TheRone

Well, talked to the folks at Hobby Lobby today regarding parts for my tail section rebuild. They do carry the plastic tail gearbox (part # ATS-6049) but it is currently on back order along with the canopy. I also asked about purchasing a complete tail assembly like Otto Rotate mentioned he received from them on a warranty issue. They told me they were not available.
DCHeli: You’re probably right. A newbie like myself is exposing themselves to a much higher probability of crashing their new heli trying to hover in small areas. In my case, the weather has been terrible (snowed in) and I just couldn’t keep my hands off the new toy. My crash was due to exactly what you mentioned; the relatively confined area of my driveway required a quick and precise correction due to an imminent obstacle. In an open area, I probably would not have had a problem. In fact, I have tried to replicate the situation on the flight simulator several times now and have come to realize that even though I can do 3D flight quite well on the sim in open areas, I never had a chance to recover in this situation. My orientation skills are just not up to it yet.

DCHeli

It really helps to use the Sim. If you can't afford to buy the $200 dollar ones, I figure it will probably save that much in spare parts. I couldn't get FMS to work with my sound card and the cable supplied. FMS work great with the TX that came with Aerofly, using the USB cable. I not sure but the Falcon tx should work as well if you buy a USB cable. I think the JR type works, they had one at my LHS for $30, it's a lot cheap the Aerofly, but I like Aerofly just for all the aircraft and scenery it comes with. I used to fly MS Flight sim alot, now I just fly mostly the RC sim. Others my comment on if the Falcon Tx works well with FMS and the USB cable, for those who couldn't get the audio cable to work????

DCHeli

Just Sim'n today, windy and rainy again, probably all week. The great NW weather.

rbh261

I was wondering how to reset the pitch after re-assembly. I crashed and had to replace the main shaft. Should the pitch be set to 0 degrees at 50% throttle? The manual isn't real clear and it seems that I have to get very high head speed to gain lift now. The PIT control is still set at the 10 o'clock position as it always was. I would like to know of a web page with some setup instruction for those of us who have only owned a RTF. I think RTF helis should have some setup info in the manual, or at least more helpful setup info.

DCHeli

rbh261
If you look at the manual, with the throttle at 0 in Normal mode, the pitch should be 0deg. I'm not sure if that is with the PIT knob a 10:00 or not, someone else might know. If you want to check the other positions you'll need something to measure it with, pitch meter, and you'll need to remove the ESC from Channel 3 and install a Rx battery or disconnect the motor so it will not run.

ct420

I did mine by setting the pitch to 0 deg. in idle up mode with the throttle stick and trim centered. I set both knobs to 12 o'clock when ding this. Seems to be just right...

Noobish

HI everyone,
I'm sitting here waiting on my 3D from HL of course ( they have been squared away so far). I'm a noob and was wondering how I know when to terminate my flight as to not hurt the lipo? I thought I read a post somewhere that someone was using an alarm of some sort that screeched when it was time to bring it down...Also, is the charger that comes with the falcon sufficient or do I need a balancing chrger?

I'm in Los Angeles...anybody know a good place to fly and can I fly anywhere it's safe?

moosemanty

http://www.tjtrc.com/LiPoV2.html

get the v2.5......it is great and works very well and no set up is required. just installation.

and to find a flying field, look in the phone book for a hobby shop. or go to a local one and ask where the nearest flying site is. they should be able to give you a few.

and don't bother to much with the stock charger. to much trouble and eventualy can ruin your battery. just get a cellpro 4 balance charger. it's well worth it.

http://www.fmadirect.com/Detail.htm?...193&section=45
and
http://www.fmadirect.com/Detail.htm?...196&section=45

madbob9

Any lipo alarm one buys needs to have an adjustable voltage point.If your looking for the batteries to live a significant amount of charges they should not go beyond 10.1 volts under load and should recover to about to 11-11.1 after a rest.That's equal to about an 80% discharge.

There is Whitter narrows near the Sepulveda Basin which is a dedicated RC flying field.They will require an AMA license.

moosemanty

i talked to Thanh (the guy who sells the v2.5) and he said the beeping point is 9.8v, which i personaly find too high, but at least for you as a noob it will give you a few little bit of time to get your under control and landed before it ruins your battery but you don't really need to be able to change the voltage. 9.8 is a pretty good beeping point. and it's not like the lipo cuts your power. it just lets you know you are low, so it doesn't matter if it beeps a little too early.



P.S. madbob9, you should not go under 9.2 volts..........10.1v won't harm your battery at all. that's still in the safe zone and 80% discharge is 9.8v not 10.1

bayward

I am interested in this also. When we do a complete reset of the main and tail rotor pitches of the Falcon where should we start ? That is, should the pit and plt knobs be set to zero when the blade pitches are set ? What position should the sticks be in ? Or what?

Bob

fwdfwr

Thanks Gary,

I'm a fix-it/break-it myself kind of guy so I'm sure I can dis-assemble the main shaft assembly and get to the main bearing; however, are you aware of a step by step set of instructions for the falcon that might save me some time/trouble?

Thanks,

Frank

madbob9

If your taking your batts down to 9.1,your probably loosing 50% of their lifespan.Do some investigation and look at some lipo discharge graphs.
You will change your mind on that statement you made.

ALC

Hey Guys,

Just bought some Duracell 2650 mah AA's , I wanted to charge them in the TX. Just wondering how long and what voltage to set the adapter to. I just got one of those standard wall adapters where you can change the ends of the plug and voltage. Its output is 300mah or should I just charge them in a normal wall charger?

Thanks

moosemanty

i have read that many places. and i believe Garry said it also. it might have been 9.4 but it was somewhere between 9.2-.4

Edit: actualy, yes i do believe Garry said it to. i remember when the dicussion was going on about the esc cutting power at 8.7v and saying that's too low, you shouldn't run a lipo below 9.4v.

also go here, it backs up what i am saying. watch the vid. of the "v2.5 (Liglow with beeper)" the lipo alarm Starts beeps telling him to land at 9.4v.....watch it and see. and Thanh knows a lot about lipos
http://www.tjtrc.com/Videos/liglowBeep_short.wmv

Gary Morris

It's really easy to reset the pitch and tail rotors, here's the simple way. Remove the servo connector on channel 3 of your receiver. Set your left stick to center position with the trim also set to center. Center the rudder trim as well. Set your two knobs at 12:00 o'clock. Plug a 4 cell NiMH flight pack into the channel 3 on the Falcon receiver. Check the servo that's located just below the main shaft and be sure it's in a horizontal position, this will be Zero pitch. If the pitch is not at Zero loosen the wire connected to the servo arm under the main shaft and either slide the wire up or down until the blades are at Zero pitch. Check your blades by looking at them on one end with the flybar level, they should appear flat, that indicates they are at Zero pitch. Tighten up the small hex set screw once this is done on the servo arm below the main shaft. To check your rudder look at the servo arm, it should be pointing at a 90 degrees to the servo and your tail blades when sighting along the tail blades should appear flat just like the main blades, this would be Zero pitch on the tail rotors. If they aren't correct loosen the two screws that hold the servo to the boom and slowly slide it back and forth until they are at Zero pitch. Tighten them back up and double check for Zero pitch. If the servo arm isn't at 90 degrees to the servo you can either use your rudder trim or take the arm off and try to move it one notch until it's at 90 degrees. By doing this you should have equal movement of the servo with full left and full right stick input, note; it shouldn't bind in either direction. Also note that with a heading hold gyro you may not be able to move the servo fully and this is normal. To test for proper operation of your gyro you can hold the helicopter in your hands with the nose pointing to the left and the tail to the right. (Note: do this with the 4-Cell NimH flight pack and not plugged into your lipoly battery! Reason is if you accidentally move your throttle stick it could start up and injure you.) Now, slowly move the tail towards your body and watch the tail pitch slider, it should move away from you as you pull the tail towards your body, if it does this the gyro is working correctly. If you push the tail away from you the tail pitch slider should move towards you. I hope this all makes sense, if not let me know.

Gary

spacedog001

Gary,

Assuming LHS will have this 4-Cell NimH flight pack, does any of them work connecting directly to reciever?
Also assuming we bypass the ESC and connect the battery to the reciever right?

Thanks,
Matt

Gary Morris

spacedog any standard 4 cell flight pack will work and yes by removing the speed controller lead, (Channel 3 on receiver), you bypass the speed controller and supply power to the servos and gyro only. Another Trick to be sure your really at Zero degrees pitch is to pull the two blades back like your going to put them in the blade holder, if you move your throttle stick up and down with the blades back you can see them move apart and back together. At center stick the two blades should be at the same exact height when they are pulled back, this is zero pitch.

Gary Morris

madbob9

All that video showed me is that his alarm may work.He must also be hosting it on his own comp.Got a whopping 40KB/sec dl.
All I'm saying is this.EVERY discharge graph I've looked at,the capacity curve falls off a shear cliff at 3.4-3.2 volts per cell.
For an extra minute of flight time it's just does not make sense to push the batts that far.
I for one do not want to pay .80-$1 per flight because my batts take a dump after 60 recharges.