with the GY401 gain is from 0-50% of servo output a gain of 100%-0% in normal mode, from 50-100% of servo output the gain is 0%-100% gain in heading hold.

that gives you 50% of servo travel covering 100% of gain in one or the other flight modes (normal or heading hold)

so a gyro sensitivity setting of 90 would be 90% of servo travel, which is equal to 80% gain in HH mode. a sensitivity setting of 10 is equal to 10% of the servo output which is equal to 80% of gain in normal mode.

0 would be 100% gain in normal mode and 100 would be 100% in HH mode. 50 would be 0 in either/or/both modes.

kc

EDIT: need to add All of the above assumes you have Aux 2 ATV set to +100/-100 and they should be, if not set them to that and do NOT adjust them to anything different as long as you use the 'gyro sensitivity' function.

also if you want to have two different gain settings in only one mode you can do that as well by setting gyro sensitivity to say:

0=92 (84% gain in Heading Hold Mode)
1=95 (90% gain Heading Hold Mode)

or

0=8 (84% gain in Norm mode)
1=5 (90% gain in Norm mode)

hope this helps clear it up some for you.

kc

I'll give it a try tomorrow, thanks for all your help.

no problem. the Futaba's are a walk in the park to setup after you get the concept down of how those gain functions work. the JR is a different story, it has the option for selective mode (HH or Norm) as well as multiple gain settings in each of those modes and then for grins and giggles they give the option for a different pirouette rate (degrees per second) in each of those modes which i really like, regardless of flight speed a pirouette during flight has a constant rate of yaw rotation rather then a fast rate as the tail is retreating and a slow one as it advances.

kc

Harry here's a couple of concepts to get straight.

The end points on the aux channel effect the gain. The more gain the better the gyro will hold. More gain than you need will wear the servo out faster. More gain than that and the gyro will be fighting itself constantly resulting in tail wag. Not enough gain and the tail will be wandering about.

There's two kinds of gain, electronic and mechanical. Electronic is set in your radio and conveyed to the gyro. Mechanical gain can be increased by moving the linkage out on the servo arm and decreased by moving it in. The ideal linkage distance lets you run the limit pot at or around 100 percent.

The end points on the rudder channel do not effect how far the rudder servo moves, the limit pot on the gyro effects how far the servo can move and should be set the the tail pitch slider can go as far as it can in either direction without binding or stalling the servo, you may and likely will end up with more throw one way than the other, thats fine. The end points effect how fast the gyro will command the helicopter to spin about the main shaft. So if you set the atv's to 100 and the helicopter spins like a blender then lowering the atvs (end points) on the rudder channel will slow down how fast it spins but won't effect how far the servo moves.

Well it still does it, more frequent now than before. The tail let go after about 5 min. into the first flight, then held for a about 1 min before it let loose again. After spending a lot of time on the set up process, I'm beginning to think that it is either a bad gyro or servo, or a mechanical problem. I've looked over the tail assembly pretty closely, and can't find anything that looks cracked or broken.
Harry

could well be a bad gyro, thats exactly how the Telebee gyros worked

kc

Here's another question, I'd like to do some troubleshooting, to see if it's the gyro, or servo, can I use a Hitec digital servo that I have, and if so, can I turn on the digital mode of the gyro? How does the 401 work with other servo's?
Thanks