ricardinho

looks awesome. come on is it done yet

canenr

That was my second choice in colour scheme. Looks great. Is that the original Flash wing standing in the corner?

skynet33

good observation, it is last years flash. started with a great season with about 30 flights then had a bad landing and it cartwheeled. I did all the repairs and paint work and it flew great once again until i had a bad take off. so there it sits in the corner. its time for the new and improved ultra flash. can't wait for the snow to go away!

flyboymd

My Feedback: (1)

Anyone have any pictures of the main landing gear being put together. This is the new gear set that is special made for the Ultra Flash and sold with the plane from Comp-Arf- Trailing link with the mains having the external springs. The instructions I just received with the gear are terrible. They are not only not in English but the pics for the rears are not even close to what I received. The problem I am having is the brake mechanism won't fit over the strut.

Thanks!

mtnflyer14

Tomorrow evening I'll post pics and some info on how I overcame the same problems you describe.
Regards,
Mark

flyboymd

My Feedback: (1)

Awesome... Thanks!

ricardinho

i just got my gear yesturday. got tracking and the bird will be here thursday. the gear look very nice.. look like a smaller version of the bae hawk gear..

ricardinho

hello we are pretty close to each other.. where do you fly ..

flyboymd

My Feedback: (1)

Fly at Pegasus RC in Hagerstown.

Did you check your gear out and see if the brake mounts onto the strut ok? Mine looks like it's just not machined enough to fit. I talked to Andy Kane this morning and I'm going to send him pictures of what I'm seeing. In the mean time would like to know if anyone else is seeing same thing. Apparently these struts are brand new and we are the first to get them.

Thanks.
Mike

mtnflyer14

I'll post pictures tonight, but the issues I had were:
1. Five pages of instructions in German, not the same struts (retracts were the C36/2, but the struts were different). You can get pretty good retract instructions at www.altecarerc.com.
2. The smooth part of the axles were about 1/4 inch too long, such that when the threads seated in the struts, the head of the axle was about 1/4 inch short of snugging up against the wheel rim. I bought a 6mm die and cut the threads deeper, then used a Dremel cutoff wheel to trim the axle to the correct length so it would not bottom out in the wheel well. I think I got Lightning axle bolts; Ray Labonte is trying to get me the correct axles, but they are coming from Germany and I am planning on going to Speedworld Desert Storm Jet Rally in Phoenix in two weeks, so couldn't wait.
3. The brake assembly would not fit over the strut. I had to file down the strut for it to fit.
4. The 'trail' in the trailing link of the strut was so much that the wheel was either going to hit inside the wheel well or be too close for comfort, so I filed out the notch that the pin fits in so the pin went into the strut deeper and reduced the 'trail' by about 1/4 inch. Wheel fits nicely inside the wheel well now. I used a 1/8" chain saw sharpening file, but think that the 5/32 inch file might have worked better.
5. I had to put in 6mm washers to space the wheel rim away from the brake assembly because the rim/tire was rubbing against the strut. One 6mm washer was enough.
6. You will need to use at least one of the 1.5mm ply spacers between the retracts and ply mount in the wing for two reasons: First to get the retract to clear the bulkhead in the wing and second to keep the wheel from bottoming out in the wheel well when retracted.
I think that is about it. Will try to post pics toinght to help explain some of this.
Regards,
Mark

gooseF22

Dave,
For those getting the wings and tail upgrade when they become available, is the CG different in the fuselage? What I mean, is how much shifting of batteries and stuff is required? I had my flash at 365mm, so what CG did you end up with after flying the UF?

Dave Wilshere

It is further back on the fuselage, so things will need moving back or weight removing.

Balance point, gear up 220-225mm back from the wing/fuselage joint. From my Update sheet now on CARF's web site

Dave

gooseF22

Thanks. yes that is over an inch.

mtnflyer14

One picture shows the axle that is about 1/4 inch too long - just cut more threads and cut off the excess. One pictures shows the groove that I filed deeper at Dave Wilshere's suggestion to reduce the amount of trail in the gear. Works fine; cycled the gear several times this evening and no problems.
Regards,
Mark

flyboymd

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Mark.. Well I was able to file some off my struts to get them to mount up to the brakes. My axle bolts must have been a little shorter. I was able to screw them all the way in with not too much excess so I shouldn't have to cut anything.. But I did uncover another problem. I got no connecting pins for the rears. Funny part of it is the pin for the front gear of course fits the retract unit but the hole in the strut is too small so not sure where this is headed. I tried to force the pin in and only went in about 3 mm and no more. I didn't want to get it stuck...Sucks as I have some extra pins from another model that would work but the strut's hole is ever so slightly too small. I've sent this off to Andy now too.

mtnflyer14

I think that you will want to remove the 3/16 to 1/4 inch of axle protruding past the jam nut on the strut. I think it will hit the bottom of the wheel well when retracted - it is a pretty tight fit. I think the pins are 6mm, but good grief - you should have had two for the mains and they obviously should fit properly. May be some quality control issues early on with these new struts??
Glad you got the brakes to fit, doesn't take too much filing. Also check to see the fit of wheel in the well and file out the slot for pin on the spring to reduce the trail if needed.
Regards,
Mark

ricardinho

hello couldnt you just take a slightly bigger drill bit and re drill the hole.. it shouldnt be much to remove...

mtnflyer14

Mike,
I just thought of one more mod I made. If you seat the bottom of the strut flush against the retract, it cannot rotate to the retracted position. The easy fix is to raise the strut about 1/8 inch (after you get the pins and get them to fit!), but I think that will be a weak point and could lead to the pin bending with side loads, etc. Instead, I got out the mill ******* file and rounded the bottom of the strut edges so it could rotate to the retracted position without binding on the retract. I will try to post a picture tonight.
Regards,
Gus

Dave Wilshere

The Behotec pins you show often have a ridge from the cutting method. Put them in a drill and use paper/belt sander or dremel to remove ridge and they will probably go in.
The issue with the strut width has been there a while (base)-I thought It had been addressed!! I mill two flats on the sets we sell on, but a 2mm spacer washer works too.
The brake clearance is one or two passes with a file/BVM Scuff board. Though they will draw down as the are, it's not ideal.

I'll talk with the boss and make sure this is being sorted for all new factory shipments

Dave

The wheel axle is a wheel redesign since the axles were made!

ricardinho

dave i friend who has built many flashes and already has been through all this. he knew the probs before i could explain to him.. he told me to relax.hehehe ... i do worry alot.. thanks for all good advice

Dave Wilshere

Many people just get on and fix them, I have a machine shop, so it's really easy...but should not be needed.
Nothing is too big a problem, but still

Dw

flyboymd

My Feedback: (1)

Yes I just saw this. I was able to get the pins in by working a 15/64th drill bit into the hole and finally got them... Now I see the rotation to retract position you mention... Looking forward to a picture of how you rounded the leg so it will not bind... Thanks for all the advise....

mtnflyer14

Mike,
These pics aren't great - the UF is on my workstand so the gear is underneath and the light isn't too good. Anyway, one pic each of left and right gear from the back looking forward. I did not round off the entire width of the bottom of the strut, only about 3/16 or less wide on each side.
Regards,
Mark

Dave Wilshere

I have had an email this morning and CARF are looking at the issues now with a view to have them fixed ASAP

Dave

indubitably

My Feedback: (14)

Thanks for all the insights here. I machined a pair of spacers, and placed an 1/8th inch spacer between strut and retract, using the stock Behotec parts. The wheel well was modified, rather than loose the bend of the mechanism. Everything seemed to work, but then on its first flight the right gear didnt extend, and after dragging the right wing, (Actually most of the stress was on the more extended stab, compared to the Flash) broke the tip off the stab. Fixed already. The right retract was spaced with a washer under each of the inboard strut mount screws between the plate and retract. The right mount must be deeper (Plane upside down) than the left, the wheel retracts deeper into the right wheel well, so that the gear locked up, would not release to gear down position. A light pressure would release the gear, otherwise the left would come down, and the right stayed up. It worked well until in the air. Then the problem. Cycled three times, it wouldnt budge. Mayday landing, scraping the right side. On the bench it would not work with high or low pressure, but dropped down with just a little tap upward. The spacers now have some gap between the wheel well and the gear up wheel, axle, bringing a similar gap space with the left. It seems that the jig for the right wing may need a little tweeking at the factory. So watch for it if you see the assymetry.
I also had only one main strut pin, but had some 6 mm stock from McMaster Carr. Also had to space out the wheel. Plane flew fabulous. Looking to fly it again tomorrow (second flight). Its the Shui UF. Fixed up good, but the repair isnt painted over yet.