DrV

My Feedback: (2)

At 5k Ft asl you are better off with the bigger engine. You can always use throttle management and engine would be much happier (as far as longevity) at lower throttle setting to fly the plane as fast as it would with higher throttle setting with the smaller engine. The weight does not affect the UF. I have a JetsMunt M140xbl in mine with electric Behotec electric gears and brakes. The dry weight (with UAT full) is 23lb. I can take the plane to a vertical climb and it would keep accelerating. Now I'm at 700 Ft ASL so there is a significant difference in air density.

jon sykes.1

Thx JSF TC just what i needed ,btw install super clean ,is that acrylic sheet you've used for the boards ? And the jeti batteries are they the 2600mahs? I fly jet I myself ,love all their gear!
regards Jon.

JSF-TC

My Feedback: (2)

Jon,

Yes, I laser cut out of 3mm yellow acrylic sheet to match the model paint scheme. I also 3D printed all the mounting brackets. All designed in Rhino. The local library has a free use 50W laser cutter and a couple of 3D printers.




I have 2x 5200mAh batteries. I love them, and have standardized them across all my models.

Really impressed with Jeti also. Just waiting on the Cortex Pro s/w update to restore TM.


Paul

ucandoit

My Feedback: (27)

Paul what would you charge for the 3mm acrylic sheet if your able to ? I'm doing the thunderbird so red, white, or blue if your able

Thanks guys for your thought's on turbine choice..

JSF-TC

My Feedback: (2)

ucandoit,

Do you fly Jeti, and want the exact install I did?

When I laser cut out the plates, I also cut out all the other mounting screw holes that align with the 3D printed parts I have made to secure the receivers, Central Box, MGPS, pump, shut-off valve etc.

There are also the holes that match the Xicoy ECU and Electron Gear control box and the Jeti battery mounts. It all just screws together with no further cutting.

If you want the entire install kit as is, I could put together a price.

Paul

ucandoit

My Feedback: (27)

Hi Paul thanks for getting back with me . I using Spektrum and just looking for a middle plate and I can arrange all my stuff on top as I do the build you can call me 970-778-0022 I live in Colorado and talk about it. Thanks for your time Scott :-)

ucandoit

My Feedback: (27)

Wanted to get your guys opinion what gear would you use ? And why Thanks :-)

#1 http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...ar-Combo-Basic

#2 https://www.electron-retracts.com/pr...raflash-combo/

bluelevel

My Feedback: (39)

Not a whole lot of differences between those 2, except when you get the Electron retracts with the GS-200 controller. This has several options to fine tune (and not lock up) the brakes and it also has a built-in gyro that helps steering the plane (also under braking). The customer support of Electron is the best I've ever seen (Thank you Xoel at the factory).

I would also take a look at the Behotec gear, a little bit more expensive but very beefy and probably the best struts of all (see http://www.altecare.com/retractsets.htm )

Thomas

jon sykes.1

Hi Thomas ,did you manage to measure your nose leg ,?
just curious as to what yours measures from top to axle centre ,and what diameter wheel?
TIA Jon,btw went with the other steering option in the end as less hacking to get it in !

JSF-TC

My Feedback: (2)

Scott,

Direct steering on the Electrons wins hands down over the pull-pull set-up in my mind.

Electron brakes are better than the Intairco/ Dreamworks ones also. 35+ flights on mine in the Ultra Flash now with no maintenance required. Need to clean my Dreamworks ones about every 10 flights.

I'd like to try the gyro assisted braking, but that came out after I'd bought my set.


Paul

ucandoit

My Feedback: (27)

Yes I do like the Direct steering on the Electrons looks very nice .. It also opens up some room in the nose when removing the
Pull-Pull box :-) That's what I'm leaning toward

DrV

My Feedback: (2)

I would also look into the Behotec gear. I have the C-40 set with direct servo steering. Very beefy and robust. The cost justifies the quality. Another flier has Electron gear but they are not as robust as the Behotec. To date, I have 80 documented flights on my ultra flash with this gear with absolutely no maintenance needed.

Dave Wilshere

The original Behotec C-36-2 is the most reliable retract set for the UF. Until someone has 500+ faultless flights its still the most reliable option. I am surrounded by UF models all with C-36-2 air systems, all are faultless...I don't mean most of the time-I mean faultless. One set has approaching 1000 flights in 2 airframes! The O rings were replaced as airframes were changed, that was around 700 flights.

DW

bluelevel

My Feedback: (39)

Hello Jon,

sorry for answering so late but my UF was giving me huge troubles on landing and before posting anything I wanted to figure out what was actually going on. My problem was that the plane developed a very strong tendency to bounce right after the nose touched the ground. I know that this is also speed related, but our field does not have a very long runway and the final turn to base has to be done pretty high and also close to the runway, because of obstacles in the flight path. So you will always come a little hotter than desired. I checked numerous video clips on Youtube to compare the behavior other peoples' planes to mine and noticed that some airframes raised the nose a little after touch down, but I could not see any bad bounces, except for "pancake" landings when all 3 wheels touched the ground at the same time.

After playing with the CG and trying various flap settings, I softened all 3 landing gear springs significantly. I removed almost a third of the wire diameter, this stopped the hopping over short bumps completely, but unfortunately didn't help with the "bunny hop" upon landings at all. I have to stress that Xoel at the factory was very helpful as usual and sent me softer main springs to test, but I had worked on mine already. The ones I skinned are also a lot softer than what I received from the factory.

Then the discussion about stut lengths came up and after measuring and comparing my Electrons to other pictures in the forum here I have come to the following conclusions:

- The original Behotec nose wheel strut seems to be a lot shorter (only 140mm) than my Electron (this was 153mm from the top of the strut to the wheel axle). The high difference is actually even bigger than this, because the Electrons with the direct steering option have a 9mm thick servo arm in between the retract and the strut!

- When comparing the pictures of other peoples' Electrons, I noticed that it seems as if there are two different lengths of struts out there. Mine had 2 set screws, but I also saw pics with a slightly shorter strut that had only 1 set screw. I believe that Electron has 2 different lengths to compensate for the steering arm. Probably I was given the longer one by mistake that was actually for the pull-pull setup.

I have shortened my strut now and cut it right below the upper set screw. That removed about 8mm of height (see before and after pictures below). Additionally I drilled and tapped the strut and attached the steering arm directly to the strut, this lowered the nose by another 9mm, so that I saved about 3/4 of an inch total.

I test flew the UF again today and what a difference this change made. Once on the ground, the plane sticks and there is no tendency to bounce anymore. I also love the GS-200 controller, the anti-lock brakes work perfectly and the built-in gyro helps with take-offs.

Thomas

Dave Wilshere

FYI the stock nose wheel with the 141 mm leg is 70 mm.
The critical dimension is from the rails as the yoke depth will vary.

bluelevel

My Feedback: (39)

Dave thanks for the info. So it seems as if the Electron gear has a 10mm smaller wheel, that takes 5mm of total heigth out of the equasion. I measured a total length of 176mm from the gear mounting rails to the wheel axle, so the total height of my Electrons before the change was 206mm (from gear plate to the ground). I believe the AirTech & Behotec equipped planes must be sitting lower as I have never seen any UF bounce as bad as mine. But like I said, this is all history now and the changes I made worked perfectly.

Thomas

scoeroo

My Feedback: (9)

Sounds like the long length of the nose wheel strut was giving the wing a greater angle of attack thus not allowing the nose wheel to stick to the ground upon landing , how was it on take off ? was the nose flighty or light on the steering ?

bluelevel

My Feedback: (39)

I am using the GS-200 controller with the built-in gyro for the nose wheel, so I hardly have to give it any steering input on take off. Of course the nose feels pretty light, but that's the way it is.

Thomas

Ruymán

Hi bluelevel!

I have the same problem with my Ultra flash, has always bounced me when landing on our paved track and I have the retractable train recommended by Carf, the Behotec and struts the next link seeing the image because I do not know the manufacturer.

https://www.motorsandrotors.co/index...roducts_id=619

I see that you have changed the springs for some softer ones and also lowered the height of the front leg. Seeing the photos of the legs of yours I see that it is that they are of electron, I thought that electron only made retractile train and the truth I do not know if the springs will be able to be worth to my feet, but I would appreciate anyway that you passed me a link where to acquire the Soft springs like that configuration of flaps or buterfly you wear to compare.

As you see I still have the problem, I have removed some flaps and put buterfly but I think what I lack are some softer springs, I hope to solve the problem or else I will have to think about changing planes and what I like how it flies

Thanks a lot for sharing your experience!

Dave Wilshere

If it bounces its simply landing too fast. I see hundreds of UF landings and grass or hard surface if you don't slow it enough it can bounce. The UF is a 'hold off' aeroplane, some designs have to be flown onto the gound, the UF lands at walking pace, calm or windy and needs holding off till its ready to land. Just practice slowing it down, it has small inlets, so minimal natural drag, maximum flap is needed! Less flap is just getting into lift again and does not help

DW

kj990

Had major 'bounce' problems with my UF. Our field is smooth but has some undulations, it's near the coast and is nearly always very windy straight across making matters worse. Got into a horrible phugoid/bounce, broke most of the nose off, trashed a wing tip and more.
Behotec C36 as supplied by Carf, stupid mistake but I didn't notice the nose spring was way too stiff. Took at least 1/4" off and it's now perfect. Totally transformed the ground handling of the model.
This event happened on take off! Too slow to fly away, was fully inverted at one stage, tried to fly away with full down elevator but still too slow. Big repair and as good as ever, these things are as tough as old boots.
As Dave W. has said umpteen times the UF will and does land very slowly.

wblombard

Hi Guys,

Changing the subject a tad - if that is ok?

I've finally started with the build, and so far so good...not that I have done that much...Only the elevator servos :-) However I have been looking over pictures trying a find a solution for the elevator servo connection wires. To make fitting of the HS easy and hassle free.

What makes me nervous is having slack in the cables could result in potentially touching against the tail pipe during flight which is not what i want, plus not having any slack will make the fit of the HS a pita.

Can any of you guys post some pics of your setup? I'm keen to see what you guys have done before I attempt to re invent the wheel.

Apologies if this has been discussed before but for the life of me I could not find it.

Regards,

William Blake

Dave Wilshere

Did you get my email?

Velcro on side of fuselage, a loop of velcro on the servo lead and after plugging the servo in you attach the lead to the fuselage side.

wblombard

Hi Dave,

Got your mail, was more wondering if there are any other solutions. Your solution is most definitely a option. Thank you!!

Dave Wilshere

You can use a fixed connector like the Powerbox Two4One MPX and mount it off set to one side, there are many options!