That would be awesome Henry! I am hoping to have my SU done by then too, but we'll see about that.

Ok, I was able to squeeze in a couple hours out in the garage and got the turbine mounted as well as the pipe. After that was done I got the nose gear installed as well. Everything fit great and I am impressed with CARF's engineering. It is obvious that a lot of thought has gone into the plane, even in this early version.

Ian

I presume the main gear cylinders you have are larger in dia than the nose unit one?
Glad you like it

Dave

I need to check that Dave. Should there be something for me to be on the lookout for? The gear were purchased just recently. Also I like the large air nipples on the gear but it is going to be tough, if not impossible to get 3mm tubing on them. I think they are designed for 4mm tubing.

Ian

Should be right, but just didn't want you getting to that stage and find they had slipped through.
I have 3mm tube on them and recommend you use that too. Depends what valve you use, on the JT valve, I think the larger volume tube allows the air to decelerate after leaving the valve and people struggle to get the gear away with the outward angled leg doors and fast forward flight. I've never had a problem on mine, or people using the UP2 valve.
I use a philips screw driver of around 1/8 dia and with a little "spit" force that in the tube end as far as I can, I leave it 1 minute, pull out the driver and work the tube on. Works for me on Festo and BVM tube.

Dave

I checked the cylinders Dave and they are bigger on the mains than the nose. I will stick with the 3mm tubing then as we are using a UP3 valve.

Ok, latest progress had the wing almost done. Dantley has opted for a Tam pipe so a few adjustments had to be made in the rear of the plane. The pipe is slightly smaller in diameter than the stock pipe so I used some plywood to brace the pipe both top and bottom and to center it in the fuse.

I got the main gear installed, fairly uneventful although the right main is ever so slightly touching the wheel well opening and I have already ground away the lip as much as I can so I will have to see how that goes. Gear door cylinders are installed and servo hatches have been attached as well. All that is left for the wing is to attach the strut doors and smaller outer doors (which I think will be fixed in place with a slot cut in them for the strut to clear as opposed to making them open and close, Dantley??) and then extensions and plumbing.

I also got the rudder hinge pin installed and rudder servo installed and just need to cut the hole for the servo arm and that should wrap up the rudder.

Nice progress! Do you know how other builders have set up the outer doors?

2 options, hinge them like normal or do like the manual says and screw them down and then cut out clearance for the strut. My vote is for option #2 since this is a sport scale plane and you want to try and fly it this weekend. It will take time to hinge them and figure out linkage and actuation.

Option 2!

I remember Jeremy aka LGM Graphics made a post awhile back on how he worked around the problem of the outer doors on the JL Hawk....pretty slick idea!

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...m.htm#10157633

Those are the wrong gear doors that we are talking about CountryBoy but thats ok, thanks for the post. We were talking about the small outer doors that are fixed to the wing.

Dave, I have some of the touch up paint from Comp ARF and I am assuming that the 2 cans are a base and then an activator. Is the ratio a simple 1:1 or something else? Also what can be used to thin it for shooting through an airbrush?

Yes, I think its 1:1, but never used it! Because of the reverse painting process they never seem to match, so advised guys to have it mixed to match actual colour

Dave

Well thats no bueno. Ok, I will test it out, but I really don't want to go get custom matched paint to fix things that should have been taken care of in the first place.

Ian, We use the Comp-ARF paint at a 4-1 mix. 4 parts hardner to 1 part paint. Just sprayed the nose on a Flash and it came out fine.
We got the mix ratio from Andy Kane who is Mr. Comp-ARF.
thanks

Ok, thanks Bill. The concern I think Dave had was getting the match from paint sprayed on as opposed to applied in the mold. Did you have to buff the paint at all to get it to match?

Ian, We just did the Flash yesterday. Below are a few photos of a Tucano I did. The color's match good with very a little Rubbing Compound to match the shine on the finish.
Below you can see the blue. I did not take any photos of the finished project but you get the idea.

Great Bill, thanks for the pics. I will spray as necessary and then hit it with the rubbing compound.

Dave, what is the prefferred method for securing the carbon fiber shaft for the stab? Do people drill and pin it through the ply that supports it? Also what about the rudder and its Carbon Fiber post? I know it has the bolt in front but you can still move it up and down in the rear a little. Do people secure the post somehow as well?

Ian,
I drilled a small hole vertical into the carbon tube and put a 2mm c/s bolt in. Totally hidden by tailplane but easy to remove! My fin is tight when front bolt is in so not adding anything else. How do you fit the scale cockpit when the steering servo comes up into the space needed?? Pics would help.

Ian.

Ian

Nothing needed on the fin, never had mine lift in flight and I can get 1/8" gap by lifting the back. Like Ian I placed a pin out side the fuse either side, but I have seen 4 or 5 different methods.
Ian 2-I realise you will need the second part to the paint! Chasing P-80

Dave

Bill, are you sure about that ratio? I think it's 4 parts paint to 1 part hardner. It's on the carf website.

Mike

I did manage to do the outer doors on mine but it took a little time to get right. I just used a wire attached to the trunion to activate the door.

I also used touch up paint to paint the ventral fins and the match was great.

Mike, You are correct. It is 4 parts paint to 1 part hardener. But I am happy to report that it works the other way also.
Ian, We did sand with 2000 grit paper before we did the rubbing compound and it is perfect.