Can some one give me some input on this and tell me what you guys think??? I seem to be a little off and was wondering if this is going to be a problem, do I go with a ball link?? Or is this not going to be too much of an issue?? Aileron servo mounts are not glued in yet, but when its against the rib, this is what it looks like..not too straight..

I would just align the servo with the horn. You can always fill the space between the blocks and the rib with either scrap wood or aeropoxy. It is not off by much, so it should not be hard to align.

No need to go the ball link route I think

Jack

I was thinking that but when I move it, the line would be into the depression for the servo door, I guess not a big deal, I will just have a little bit of an angled cut out on the servo door..So I would definitely have to move that servo over though huh ?? Im just a little anal when it comes to this stuff, I like everything neat and straight..lol

Let me take a look at mine and see how it looks... I'll post a picture

your the best..Thanks Jack

Don't forget you can always just call up BVM and ask. There aren't many companies like that anymore...

I will have to agree..One big reason its in my hangar..

Just checked.... Mine is pretty straight. If I were you, one thing I would try is just to connect the linkage in the position you want to install it, hold the servo in its position with your hand and check the movement. I'm afraid with the position you have that the horn will try to open the clevis. But try it, maybe is not as bad once you do a dry run...

If it doesn't work, I would just position the servo correctly and forget about it. luckily the area is painted black, so you don't even see the slot.

Plus, the electra is a freaking rocket, there is no way to see that the slot is not parallel to the door

My first Electra was like that, never posed an issue. I did position the clevis so the pin boss helped bring the linkage into alignment. It would nice if they added the slot into the milling program that cuts the surfaces free.

Ok so I rotated the servo and mount a little bit and it turned out fine..no issues..Thanks everyone..

One more question..Elevator throws...Manual calls for, lets say an inch, well .9 for down..I am only getting a .5 inch in deflection..Anyone else run into this??? Am I sanding??? lol

That's odd.. I get full deflection. What is limiting the movement? is the elevator leading edge catching on the stab trailing edge?

Let me know where is binding and I'll compare it with mine

Exactly Jack Horn linkage etc is all free an clear.

so what's binding?

link should be 90 degrees with the hinge line

my 2c

The stabs trailing edge is preventing the elevator from moving any further than .5 inches. Thanks jack

OK, I checked mine and it doesn't catch and I didn't do anything during construction to prevent it... But I had this happen before in other planes

I haven't tried this but I have read you can force the elevator in, hold it with some down deflection, and heat the area up with a heat gun (careful, don't burn anything!!!)

The other option is just to sand it with a sanding block. I would sand the stab trailing edge, not the elevator leading edge
One last thing, make sure there is nothing inside blocking the movement. Maybe a drop of glue or something?

let me know if any of this works. You do need the deflection.. you are going to be flying it inverted a lot!!!!! This is by far the most fun plane I've ever had

Jack your making me very excited on flying this thing..I havent had time to check it out and really see what is stopping it..I will check and report back..

Jack ,

Are your strut door covers flush with the wing skin?? Or do they rest on top of it?? Havent put them on yet, just trying to plan ahead..I also got something good in the mail the other day..E-Gear for it..Such a nice set, it should make everything very clean and simple..No tanks, switches, air lines etc..Im felling real happy that I went this way..

They sit flush with the wing skin. you need to open the hole a lot more than what the drawing says. Go slowly.
One tip in the instructions that really works is to bevel the edges of the door, so it is more forgiving when closing as it become more "selfcentering"

what are you using for struts? wire, durostruts or trailing links? if you go wires, i do have a trick for you to make the doors more durable... let me know

BTW, great choice going electric gear. This plane is soooo simple, that I forget to put air on the landing gear. If I were building one i would go electric, but I'm too lazy to change it now

Let me know about the struts

I ended going with trailing links as the field 10 min. from my house. It is a grass runway, hence the reason I went electric so I can fly whenever I want.BV said they dont carry them anymore, so I got them from Dreamworks..

So I am basically getting this gear and door lined up, and sanding a good amount of the wing skin back so it sits flush..Looks like I will be taking a good chunk of rib out..I found this pic and it looks like it is sanded back and flush.. The reason I am asking about this is, it doesnt really show you in the manual and a lot of the pics that I can find when I do some research show them resting on the wing skin when the gear is retracted..I just like to double and triple check before I start cutting into wing ribs..

Thanks in advance Jack

Ok,

my tip doesn't apply to trailink link, so no worries there.
There is A LOT of grinding to be done around to make things fit. It made me nervous at first, but then you understand how things are supposed to fit. Really not that hard.

I will put up a picture in a little while of the end result so you get the idea

Another tip, replace the standard flexplates with the carbon fiber ones before flying it, specially if you are going trailing link. They are available as an upgrade from BVM
I know it is counterintuitive, but trailing links are really mild on your mounts as long as you dont land really hard. But if you really screw up a landing, they actually create a torque (instead of pure upwards force) since the wheel is now behind the anchor point (try to picture the force diagram in your head) that can rip things apart.

So... order the set of carbon flexplates from patty, don't wait for the originals to break...

Going to the basement to take a picture... I'll post later

Good info Jack and I will second him on the carbon fibre flex plates. The regular ones will break even on smooth landings if the grass is rough. If you break one bad enough then you will be repairing a crack in the top of your wing when the retract hits it. I put some carbon fibre over my retracts on the inside of the wheel wells to prevent this.

My gear doors sat over top of the wing skin...... it worked fine that way but would probably looks a little better the flush way.

ITs a great flying plane and one of my favorites to fly. I will be starting to build a kit electra here soon to replace my ARF that ate the ground with a radio problem.

Oh no!!!! you will lose like 1 mph

Seriously though, in my set up, the gear will not close if the door doesnt go in. It would keep the gear from fully retracting if it sat on the top

Looking forward to those pics..I appreciate it Jack..I will have to call Patty/Heather Monday..I already ordered some stuff so maybe I can catch it before it goes out. I had no idea there were carbon upgraded flexplates for it..Thanks for the info, very helpful.

I opted out of the carbon fiber above the wing and epoxied some poly ply up there I had left over from a bandit build.It was easier for me and seemed stronger.

Poly ply will work fine.