Sebart Avanti S Build Thread w/KT 180
02-03-2014, 04:23 AM
#101
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Location: PerthWestern Australia, AUSTRALIA
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The blocks simply rip out with little force, they aren't glued in well enough. I did the mod with addition of tygon in my springs before the first flights and have a good amount of travel in the springs now.
02-03-2014, 08:59 AM
#103
I hysol'd the gear blocks in, now I'm wondering if I should do something more. I will be flying off a rough grass field. I did see what looked like hot glue as well, what I didn't want to see was a few gaps where the former wasn't touching the perpendicular piece. I'm gonna look at it more closely and do something more. My field is not kind to landing gear.
I did like seeing the G10 rib on either side of the retract mounting plate, and it was tabbed into the G10, I think the design might be good, but the way it was put together could be better?
I had to order a few more little things and I'll be ready for final assembly.
I did like seeing the G10 rib on either side of the retract mounting plate, and it was tabbed into the G10, I think the design might be good, but the way it was put together could be better?
I had to order a few more little things and I'll be ready for final assembly.
02-03-2014, 10:19 AM
#104
Join Date: Apr 2007
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This is worrying the gear block issue. They really need to come out to fix with Hysol properly, putting extra glue around the joints would not seem enough maybe with some fillet blocks it might be.
I have sent an email overnight to Sebart asking about the spring issues I have had.
How much landing flap the 2nd time did you have dialed in? Does it really need flap to land?
I will check the landing gear blocks again tonight (have not made any mods as yet).
Our field (Grass) is also not kind to landing gear as well.
I have sent an email overnight to Sebart asking about the spring issues I have had.
How much landing flap the 2nd time did you have dialed in? Does it really need flap to land?
I will check the landing gear blocks again tonight (have not made any mods as yet).
Our field (Grass) is also not kind to landing gear as well.
02-03-2014, 10:31 AM
#105
There are two angle pieces of wood on the underside of the main gear blocks on the leading and trailing edge sides. (not sure how they are glued in, really hard to see them, I felt them when I was smearing hysol around.) I'm wondering if a doubler on the tip or root side will be wise? I am not experienced enough on this stuff to figure out the right track to take. Obviously, cutting into the wing is something you want to avoid, I'm wondering if a 1/8th ply doubler on either side tied into the G10 former will be enough to toughen it up?
02-03-2014, 11:44 PM
#106
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Put some little pieces of timber fillets with hysol all in the landing gear box and outside as well and brushed some more hysol on the joints in the landing gear area. Time will tell.
Sullivan Smoke Pump 1 Litre tank (under fuel tank)
Kingtech 170G powered by diesel
Intairco Air Trap
Powerbox Competition SRS
2 x SBUS receivers
BoomaRC 3500mah Life Turbine Battery
BoomaRC 2600mah Life Receiver batteries x 2
Homemade 5 litre fuel tank
BoomaRC 2600mah battery for Afterburner Ring and Smoke power
Sullivan Smoke Pump 1 Litre tank (under fuel tank)
Kingtech 170G powered by diesel
Intairco Air Trap
Powerbox Competition SRS
2 x SBUS receivers
BoomaRC 3500mah Life Turbine Battery
BoomaRC 2600mah Life Receiver batteries x 2
Homemade 5 litre fuel tank
BoomaRC 2600mah battery for Afterburner Ring and Smoke power
02-04-2014, 04:13 AM
#107
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It doesn't need flap to land. Second flight it landed on nil flap and was very slow and controlled.
I honestly believe that you need to get in behind the blocks with Hysol for them to be secure. On the side of mine that didn't rip out, I pulled the block out relatively easily with multi grips, if it is really hard then use a heat gun to soften the glue and pull the block out. I used the dremel to remove all the hot glue from the blocks so the hysol has some direct wood to stick to.
I also had the gaps between the vertical ply and the block of 2-3mm, I closed these all up with the Hysol while the blocks were out.
I honestly believe that you need to get in behind the blocks with Hysol for them to be secure. On the side of mine that didn't rip out, I pulled the block out relatively easily with multi grips, if it is really hard then use a heat gun to soften the glue and pull the block out. I used the dremel to remove all the hot glue from the blocks so the hysol has some direct wood to stick to.
I also had the gaps between the vertical ply and the block of 2-3mm, I closed these all up with the Hysol while the blocks were out.
02-04-2014, 07:58 AM
#108
It doesn't need flap to land. Second flight it landed on nil flap and was very slow and controlled.
I honestly believe that you need to get in behind the blocks with Hysol for them to be secure. On the side of mine that didn't rip out, I pulled the block out relatively easily with multi grips, if it is really hard then use a heat gun to soften the glue and pull the block out. I used the dremel to remove all the hot glue from the blocks so the hysol has some direct wood to stick to.
I also had the gaps between the vertical ply and the block of 2-3mm, I closed these all up with the Hysol while the blocks were out.
I honestly believe that you need to get in behind the blocks with Hysol for them to be secure. On the side of mine that didn't rip out, I pulled the block out relatively easily with multi grips, if it is really hard then use a heat gun to soften the glue and pull the block out. I used the dremel to remove all the hot glue from the blocks so the hysol has some direct wood to stick to.
I also had the gaps between the vertical ply and the block of 2-3mm, I closed these all up with the Hysol while the blocks were out.
I like your heat up the glue trick to aid in removal!
02-04-2014, 08:02 AM
#109
Gary, KING TECH! You will save $1000, and you'll have it by Friday. The manual is very good, and I've seen time and time again on RCU how good the customer service is! Its cool that Barry is part of things here on RCU. He called me to verify my shipping address and congratulated me on our new baby… nice touch for sure.
Speaking of baby, three week old and potty training a three year old is kicking my behind lately. Not a tremendous amount of progress. I have photo documented what I have done, I'll wait to get a little more this weekend and post.
Speaking of baby, three week old and potty training a three year old is kicking my behind lately. Not a tremendous amount of progress. I have photo documented what I have done, I'll wait to get a little more this weekend and post.
The Behotec is supposed to be in Bakersfield by Thursday afternoon. I'm guessing someone stood up on the shipping as it took so long to get the thing out of Germany, it was shipped today and scheduled for a Thursday delivery. Two days from Germany to California via UPS had to cost some serious coin.....
Going to have to mention this gear block issue to my builder although he told me the other day that he's been watching this thread, thanks all for posting up what you've learned.
02-07-2014, 06:14 PM
#110
Here is my idea on the landing gear mounts. It looks like a well thought out design to me, but definitely not enough nor the right type of glue. I made some ply pieces to go in between the two mounting bolts then put glue fillets with hysol everywhere I could. I can't see this thing ripping out, maybe the entire box, but not the piece of ply that has the blind nuts for mounting the gear!
02-07-2014, 06:25 PM
#111
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Maiden Flight went well today. I had my C of G set at 240mm. High up full flap applied and nil throttle and floats down no bad snaps or twists etc. I had a mix of down elevator with full flap for second go up high (have the same mix on my reaction to land) wow nose down and diving. Mix came off as I had it on a switch.
Came in for first landing full flap, power off and sticks its nose up in the air, power on, go around all over the place. Next time around half flap and flat and normal approach, power off sticks nose up in the air. Power on nose down and land. Not a great landing but landed.
Flys with its tail dragging. Mains didn't go up as they got fouled on the wheel covers.
Wheel covers came off. Left C of G where it was. Fuel up and go fly again.
Flight much better, all wheels go up. Still fly's with its tail as if its dragging it along. Come to land half flap, power off nose up. Power on and had to keep power on to land. Again not the best landing but on the ground safe.
Going to move C of G further forward. Battery pack forward and see how it goes next weekend.
Will move C of G as one gets use to flying it. Happy with overall performance. Kingtech 170G plenty of power. Rips it off the ground.
Came in for first landing full flap, power off and sticks its nose up in the air, power on, go around all over the place. Next time around half flap and flat and normal approach, power off sticks nose up in the air. Power on nose down and land. Not a great landing but landed.
Flys with its tail dragging. Mains didn't go up as they got fouled on the wheel covers.
Wheel covers came off. Left C of G where it was. Fuel up and go fly again.
Flight much better, all wheels go up. Still fly's with its tail as if its dragging it along. Come to land half flap, power off nose up. Power on and had to keep power on to land. Again not the best landing but on the ground safe.
Going to move C of G further forward. Battery pack forward and see how it goes next weekend.
Will move C of G as one gets use to flying it. Happy with overall performance. Kingtech 170G plenty of power. Rips it off the ground.
02-07-2014, 06:27 PM
#112
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As in my previous builds I don't use t nuts to bolt gear in I drill and tap for 4mm bolts and harden threads with thin ca and run tap through again. That way if you arrive not so gently it just pulls the gear mounting bolts out and not the whole gear mount assy . It's worked well for many years.
Kevin
Kevin
02-10-2014, 03:54 AM
#115
Join Date: Sep 2005
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I've been flying mine since August last year. I started with 250mm and have since moved back to 260mm and to me if feels a little nose heavy. I have around 1mm of up trim on the elevators at this setting.
With this rear CG the model is very close to tipping on its mains when the tank is empty so 'wheelie' landings are very easy and look great on this model.
With this rear CG the model is very close to tipping on its mains when the tank is empty so 'wheelie' landings are very easy and look great on this model.
02-10-2014, 05:36 AM
#116
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Here are pics of the elevator offset (sorry but RCU rotated them 90 degrees)
First shows normal flight (1.5-2mm up)
Second is take-off (down 3mm from normal)
Third is full flap (down 5mm from normal)
First shows normal flight (1.5-2mm up)
Second is take-off (down 3mm from normal)
Third is full flap (down 5mm from normal)
02-10-2014, 10:44 AM
#118
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Turbine (Kingtech) sits on the rails with no packing and is centered in the pipe. Will check alignment at exit of model. The model whilst flying did not feel sensitive to elevator and required no up or down trim to fly.lupwind turns were better than downwind turns (really dropped its tail). Landing was the worst off power, nose up.
02-10-2014, 11:00 AM
#119
Turbine (Kingtech) sits on the rails with no packing and is centered in the pipe. Will check alignment at exit of model. The model whilst flying did not feel sensitive to elevator and required no up or down trim to fly.lupwind turns were better than downwind turns (really dropped its tail). Landing was the worst off power, nose up.
Maybe a programming issue where your trims are not grouped and it changed them in each flight mode?
02-10-2014, 12:15 PM
#121
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Have you noticed any pitch changes with power changes in level cruise flight (clean configuration)? Or, only with flaps and gear down?
How much down elevator is required for level inverted flight?
It really sounds to me like you have a significant amount of down thrust (engine mounted too high, thrust tube pointing down).
The only other thing I can think of that would cause those types of symptoms would be if you accidentally mixed elevator with throttle or something like that.
How much down elevator is required for level inverted flight?
It really sounds to me like you have a significant amount of down thrust (engine mounted too high, thrust tube pointing down).
The only other thing I can think of that would cause those types of symptoms would be if you accidentally mixed elevator with throttle or something like that.
02-10-2014, 01:22 PM
#122
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No pitch changes in normal flight. Nil inverted as yet only two flights so far. Flaps down and gear down is when model becomes a handful to land. No elevator to throttle mix either.
Turbine is centered to bell-mouth and pipe.
Turbine is centered to bell-mouth and pipe.