FenderBean

I thought about this but my bellmouth was to far back to attach it to the turbine rails. I dont plan to take mine apart much but its nice when u need to for maintenance or transportation purposes. Ziv Looks good check back through my thread there are a few things to look out for during the build but not much.

FenderBean

I got a few more things done tonight, im on the home stretch now for sure! I got the the thust vector control servo and rods installed and tested the operation. I have videos uploading on my channel showing everything done today as well, some nice vector action in the last one! I had to sand and cut two areas on the back bulkheads to allow for the rods, the vertical axis was a little sanding and the horizontal axis need some trimming. The pictures and the videos so the areas, I will probably add a brace to the horizontal axis. I dont know much about thrust vectoring on turbines so during the first few ground runs and flights I will be keep a very close eye on this area. Next thing I will connect and run all the wires in the tail and add the heat protection as well, then its CG time!!! Time to order some turbine oil!!!

In the Haze

Have the same issue with one wing, and rudder. The holes in the hinge plate seem slightly bigger than the wire hinge pin. Have been contemplating what to do. Need to put some kind of bushing in the plate, or simply fill the holes with aeropoxy and redrill them the correct size........mmmmh maybe, not sure.

FenderBean

I'm going to use hysol with some milded fiber glass in the holes. Once it starts to set up I will then take the rod with some lubrication on it and run through.

DiscoWings

My Feedback: (76)

Use jb weld (slow cure) it will last much longer. Lude the rod with Vaseline so the epoxy doesn't weld it self onto the wire.

marc s

Not sure filling the holes with 9462 and then drilling is going to hold, maybe an option is to open out the holes so you can sleeve them with a thin piece of plastic type snake which the wire fits in nicely, opening out the hole adds surface area to glue in the 'bush'.

marcs

FenderBean

Yeah I can give that a try, im still pondering the hole thing I will post which the results
Marc thats a thought as well I will see what I have in tube size, it just is more risky, once the hole is enlarged no going back.

DiscoWings

My Feedback: (76)

Brass tube will work better than plastic, if you have a hobby shop near by check them out, most have a small stand with an assortment.

FenderBean

This would require removing the tube thats inside the control surface that guides the metal rod. I am trying the easy method first, I think it will work. If it becomes a issue after a flight or two I can always go back and do something else.

FenderBean

So not much tonight, I have to call it early to go do some IFR flight planning for tomorrow but I did get started on securing and protecting the tail section servo wires. I add the Robbe terminals to the leads and started adding the aluminum tape with some ceramic blanket underneath over the wire, so double protection.

olmaugeard

Hi fender bean,

I look forward to the results obtained on your CG.

Do you can explain the method used to make the measure and finally if it is necessary - or not - to add of the weight in the nose …and if yes, how much ?

Have you a picture with a general view with all components installed inside the fuselage ?

For my part I work slowly on the construction and at the moment, I take care with putting supports under wings to add lights and smoke system.

Informations to be followed soon via pictures.

Olivier

kjb

A thought that may help for the rod issue where there is movement

I tried this on a carbon control horn where the hole for a Clevis had wear

basically using another clevis you add a drop of thin cyno, let it set then move the Clevis to break the glue joint. Remove Clevis then re-fit pushrods

I did not like the idea but it worked and lasted, it may not be suitable but just sharing ideas

FenderBean

If will take some pictures of the set and post the results of my cg once done. If anyone has a p200 or mammoth and could measure your inner pipe diameter it would be helpful I received a new pipe but it looks like the one use for a k170.

FenderBean

Finished up the tail adding the heat protection, I cut a small hole on both sides of the joining bulkhead. There are holes in the ply in this area so its just skin so its not hurting anything, I have some hose wrap thats good well above what the turbine can put out in heat. I need to hit radio shack and find a good three wire connector, some like a heavy duty servo plug would be nice I dont have any female robbie ends or I would just use that. This way I can unplug the two wires going to the servo in the tail, never know when you need to remove the tail section.

Debating on putting some over the thrust vector servos to protect them from heat, not sure if they need it. Opinions on this would be nice Cheers!

TJPro351

My Feedback: (8)

Running the Mammoth and my pipe diameter is:
Inner: 95mm
Outer: 110mm
Make sure you re-enforce the vertical stab as indicated by SM in the other Avanti thread. I was cruising at 152mph (onboard GPS) straight and level and my vertical stab started to flutter. I disassembled the rear section and re-enforced rudder section and base of vertical stab (fuselage side) with carbon cloth.
My CG is in the middle of recommend CG per manual. My ECU battery is up front of the nose gear and I had to add about 1 pound of lead (this was a little nose heavy). While I was fixing the vert stab, I did remove TV system so I will remove nose weight. I am hoping the CG will be to my liking since I removed TV system but also added some carbon cloth. Hope to fly this weekend to verify CG

Here is a picture of my install. My UAT is on top of the smoke tank

FenderBean

TJ thanks for the info, mine looks to have come with the SM recommended upgrade. I thought about adding more. TJ your pipe is the same size as the guys who run the K210 in their, mine is like 128 mm. The problem is now my back bulkhead is for the larger size pipe and the smaller pipe has about a inch all the way around. I guess the best thing to do is find someone with a P200 that has a different kit ans see what their pipe size is.

FenderBean

I went and bought a connector from radio shack I think it will be good enough for three servos and the amps. I added a bit of solder to them after clamping, that designed to do either or but I did both. I was going to put the tail on and do a video showing everything together working but I ran into an issue I will have to fix in the morning. The horizontal thrust vector rod bolt on the servo arm hits the pipe, I already took out the space but it hits at the very end of the throw. I am going to move it to the bottom of the servo arm, but since the arm is so thick I will have to grind it down to fit and im tired and need a good night sleep. The good news is im solo this weekend so lots of free time to build, after I fix the that rod and bolt on the tail it will be on to balancing and then its done!

FenderBean

Well its finally done! I just need to balance it and its going to hard solo this thing is big and kinda heavy lol I did a video showing everything put together and all the controls moving to include the thrust vector pipe.
Kevin and Carl are ready to go!

FenderBean

Well the verdict is in and its waaaaay tail heavy, a 3 lb weight is just a bit to much so im guessing 2.5lbs of weight to balance? Makes me want to remove the thrust vectoring LOL

After moving my cd back to the 330mm which is for the 3D I will have to add about a pound which is about what everyone seem to be adding. So I will be moving my Robbe battery backer forward as well as much equipment as I can. I am guessing once I arrange a few things I can probably get the weight needed down to 1/2 or less than the current. Keep in mind I do not have the smoke tank or any smoke equipment installed so now I will deff add it since it will require the tank, pump and another battery. The current weight is under 40 lbs, the range is 35-44 so im doing good

Anyone have a smoke pump for sale LOL

FenderBean

I spent the day moving some stuff around and making some leads for the turbine equipment, after everything I did im down to less than a pound need to balance the jet. If I put the smoke tank, pump and battery in I can pretty much remove the weight. I did a video showing everything functioning including the telemetry for the folks asking about the layout. I went with the aft 330 CG as well if anyone was wondering. Since I finished this one up I jumped to the F-14 a little.

FenderBean

I was wondering what kind of dry weights people are coming up with? For the first time in 25 years im actually going to have to add nose weight to a project. I got it down to about 0.7 of a pound needed so thats not to bad, without UAT fuel and the added weight im at 46lbs.

In the Haze

Not sure about overall weight, I added 450 grams to get CG 320mm from leading edge.. K210 with smoke and vector nozzle.

Will test fly this weekend.

FenderBean

I was balancing mine on the aft CG since it helped with balance, your pipe is probably smaller than mine so that deff helped you not use as much nose weight. I may install a smoke system down the road, if so this will eliminate the need for nose weight with an extra battery in the nose. Thanks for the info

FenderBean

Okay one more question, my main struts bottom out without any fuel and the sm instructions are not any good. Can I just add air pressure to increase holding pressure or do I also need to add more oil as well.

In the Haze

I added pressure to around 130psi, and they seemed ok without fuel. I am not sure how they will hold up with fuel. Will find out in a few days.

I have not put any more oil in.