Thanks Paul i now feel better
Chris

Thanks for the info. I thought I read some where that the new cc is inconel. It doesnt look like ss.
Tim.

you are welcome

I got my (first but not last i hope) turbine from JetJoe.
The Serial Number is 00790.
I am very pleased with the quality of most of the materials (the onboard propane valve tank looks nice but funny)
I just can't stop holding it in my hands.
After examining all the parts i found that everything needed to run is included but i have some questions
which many of you will find silly but as my turbine experience equals zero i am forced to ask.

1) In the manual (word document) it states that i need a Y or T tube connector for supplying fuel and lubrication
from the fuel pump to the turbine. As i bought the turbine assembled there are only 2 flexible tube lines coming out
from the front of the turbine, one transparent and the other orange in color. Is the "Y" connector in the turbine? I
dont want to remove the cover yet.

2) I suppose that the orange tubing is for fuel and the transparent is for gas.

3) There is a 3 wire servo lead coming out of the front of the turbine also. Is this the tachometer output?

4) The Fadec has wires for the starter motor and the plug. Do i need a separate speed controller for the starter
and a plug driver or everything is included in the Fadec?

5) The thermocouple is a long wire like probe but where do i put it?
If the small hole in the outer exaust cone is intented for the thermocouple do i have to bend it (60-90 degrees) so
the body of the thermocouple is parallel to the turbine body and the tip is inserted to the hole of the exaust tube
and how deep? (i read that 3mm is ok.)
I am afraid to bend it as i am afraid that i might damage it.

6) Does anyone know where i can find a short description of the manual start up procedures?
I am especially pazzled about how much do i need to open the gas valve for a proper flow of gus during startup.
Obviously the gas tank pressure also affects this but i estimate that there must be a certain behavior of the turbine
that i should watch for. I dont want to destroy the turbine by incorectly starting it up.

7) How i dinstinguish the gas valve from the fuel valve?
Are the two valves (solenoids) identical?

I apologise in advance for this long post full of questions.

Chris

Chris under the cover there should be a a T or Y on the orange fuel line to provide fuel/oil mix to the turbine and also the bearing. If you don't take the cover off you cannot check that all is secure and if the T or Y wasn't there you chance distroying the bearings. Don't forget to put in multiple filters or you'll end up with blocked injectors.

Thats the usual way they are arranged

Yes
The FADEC will do the controlling

It will bend fairly easily but no sharp angles, usually most of us thread it through the case straps where they join up. Put a large U bend to take up excess length then a bend into the exhaust hole 3-5 mm

Try listening to when gas escaping and mark the valve so can go to it every time, manually or auto spin the turbine up and turn on the gas and you'll hear it 'POP' alight you will usually need more gas or it gets blow out as you reapply the starter to spool up.

http://www.espiell.com/users1.htm for data

Yes it doesn't matter except finding the in and out sides

Chris this what the thread is all about.

Paul
RCdriver

Hi.
I understood all the answers but the fuel distribution lines look funny to me.
It looks that the orange line is for gas?????
I finaly decided to remove the cover (i am a little worried as this is the first time i play with a turbine)
so here is a picture.
Chris

Hi Chris,

Yes. All Jetjoe turbines use transparrent line for fuel. This is a way of checking fuel flow and bubbles in fuel system. Also to check when priming the pump.

Please familarize yourself with turbine operations before attempting to rig and start it for the 1st time. From your questions it is obvious you do not know a lot about turbine operations. I may be wrong. If everything is not done correctly you can destroy the turbine in seconds.

Unfortunately Jetjoe does not have a comprehensive manual to help first time users. Get some assistance from fellow turbine operators in your area.

Best regards

Morne

Hi Chris,

Just overlook your picture again. Please check the oil line(left clear pipe). It looks like the pipe is bend too sharply. It will not allow oil to get to bearings.

Use cable ties to fasten it correctly.

Regards

Morne

I will spend a lot of time with it dont worry.
I know my limitations but i have a great talent in organising and experimenting so
i will read everything i can find before i try anything.
I have great experience in buillding engines, helicopters, airplanes and almost everything that has to do with rc but yes
my knowledge about rc turbines is almost zero.
I am an electronics engineer and i also program microcontrollers for custom applications so the fadec and the electronics are not that
difficult for me. Never the less i had to ask just to make sure since there is no real turbine manual and i am afraid
no real Fadec manual (printed version) also (it will do but it is very minimalistic).

Here in Greece there is no official rc club no official flying field and no fellow turbine operators.
There are some guys that know but having a chat with them convinced me that this forum is full of turbine gurus.
I can't realy expect any local help.
Everyone here tried to convince me not to buy the turbine like it was a monster.
I am now more familiar with it.
Yes i also noticed that with the fuel line and it is first in my list.
Chris

Chris

It proved worth while pulling the cover off and that crimp in the line might have been expensive. I should have picked up on the fuel line color as I always use clear line on my turbines from the pump up to the festo Y. If you assume the fuel you are going to use as dirty (even if purchased in plastic containers) the last filter will never block as there is nothing then to collect except maybe mesh gear rubbings.

Paul
RCdriver

You were right insisting on removing the cover.
I plan on using at least 2 filters as i dont want to add pressure drop from multiple filters.
I think 2 filters must be enough, what do you think?
I also plan on using clear lighting kerosene which must be fine for the JJ1400.
Chris

Hi Chris,

I have the jj1200 which I got from Joe approx 4-5 weeks ago. Mine is the manual start non fadec setup.
I have run approx 2 ltrs of fuel through it now and it runs superb! I am using heating Kerosene which seems very clean. I have installed 2 in-line fuel filters - one before the pump and one after the pump. I am also mixing 5% Mobilejet 2 turbine oil with the fuel with great results so far.
My engine is totally manual controlled and starts so easy and runs great - I never owned or run a turbine before my jetjoe, so fadec should be even easier to get to grips with.

All the best with your new engine and let us all know how your first couple of runs go.

Rabbit.

Thank you very much for the wishes.
I must say that i am impressed with the quality of the turbine as the materials used
look very good indeed.
For the filters thats exactly what i had in mind to use 2 filters, one before and one after the pump.
Chris

Hi Guys! I have what I believe is a genuine question. It is NOT my intention to start a flame war here, just get what I hope is a simple answer to what I hope is a simple question. Here goes:

I'm really interested in purchasing my first jet engine and kit. I'm looking at getting the JJ 1400, and the Reaction 54 (originally wanted the DV8R, but it needs at least 18lbs of thrust). I happened to mention to my wife that the JJ 1400 is made in China, and is considered by some, to be a "knock-off" of other turbines. I innocently asked her would she have a problem buying the turbine from a Chinese manufacturer. To my great surprise, she said Yes! She feels that doing business with China, helps to keep the Communist regime in power, and continue to oppress the Chinese people. Now, I know she may have over simplified the situation in China, and I have a habit of being naive in certain areas of world economics and practices. However, can anyone offer an explanation that can help put my wife's fears to rest?

Thanks in advance.

Jorden

What is the point of this post? Get ANY other turbine then! A Wren kit IS almost as cheap and I'll bet has more thrust regardless what JJ says your getting.

Dave

I have several machines built in China, they cost less and are of high quality. I stopped buying from the UK as the currency exchange rate is to high, Euros much better.
As for my part, I'm very happy with jetjoe. I have a new updated cc sent to me free and free shipping. Yup very happy.
Tim.

Chris

I agree that the fuel being clean is the real key and any pressure drop will only be due to the filters blocking up with something that would surely block the injectors which are very fine hypo needles. Most jet flyers filter the fuel as it goes into fill the tank or 1.5 ltr coke bottle. The tank pick ups can be sintered or better still gas/petrol felt types which prevent air and dirt. Usually there will be a small header tank or a UAT which collects and stops air or any debris. So the line filter after the pump isn't really doing any filtering and might be checked once in a while at the beginning of the flying season.

I hope your first runs go well. If you ever see first hand a wet start its surely impressive sight [8D][8D] I always have some help, someone on hand briefed on the CO2 fire extinguisher. There are vids here online on RCU of jet models lost in about 15 seconds completely burnt out or burning brightly, so a festo manual shut-off valve in line to isolate the turbine when filling is a good suggestion.

Paul
RCdriver

Funny how some modelling moments stick in the memory, talking about first runs of a new turbine, I well remember how I scared the neighbours by leaping down the garden full pelt as my new turbine spooled past idle unannounced. [X(]

I was only used to the very early turbine 'speed controllers' for the KJ66s and homebuilts which are basically linear control from the TX. I thought the ECU was out of control, running away and not answering the throttle. Not knowing the ecu ran up to mid throttle before settling back down to idle and only then giving back TX control, I was way down the garden waiting for a flying work bench to arrive anytime shortly.

Another turbine operator was used to smaller thrust turbines strapped a new 30lb thrust to his faithful old test bench, I was on the CO2 at the time, all was fine until he gave it full gun and his expression was priceless as the the old bench duly tried to rotate, only fast reactions saved any further embarrassment or damage.

It a great hobby, jets and turbines just make it even better.

Paul
RCdriver

Hi Paul.
If i understood correctly it is better to employ the same scheme as the IC helicopters.
A normal 1,5 ltr tank and a header tank much like that used in the Raptor helicopter.
Are those header tanks suitable for turbine use?
If yes i suspect that a one way valve is needed for the tank in order to breath air since there is no
exaust pressure line like the exaust pipes of the IC engines have.
Thanks, Chris

Dave,

I guess my point was to get an a few details to see if my wife's apprehensions were valid. Never-mind though, it really doesn't matter since I've pretty much made up my mind to get the JJ. As far as the Wren goes, I'm not knocking the product in any way, other than price comparison. With a fully assembled unit, Fadec etc ..., the JJ lists at $1160. The cheapest I've seen a new Wren 54 (also 14lbs thrust) is $2,800 (Jet Hangar Hobbies). Even if I have to add $500 to the JJ, it's still over $1000 cheaper. Please tell me where I can find a Wren 54 that is almost the same price as the JJ1400.

Thanks,

Jorden

Chris
In essence it is the same idea, as its about trapping both air and dirt, except we use tygon and kero fuel tubing. The header doesn't breath, idealy remaining full with maybe a small bubble of air trapped, only the main tank breaths in at high level. Its often seen that the header sides are sucked in slightly when the pump is running hard.

Paul
RCdriver

WOW! MY web browser shows 14# Wren 54'S from $1895 thru $2295. Anybody else see them at $2895?

I see JJ1400 complete package at $1428 plus shipping of what? $75USD Say $1500USD at your door. ADD $500 and you're smack dab in the middle of a Wren....AND you'll see #14 of thrust, not a little over 12 pounds.

Dave

Dave

I'd love a brand new Wren 54 mkIII full auto start and Fadec for $1895. Thats at least $700 less than Wren charge directly in the UK. Please send a PM as I've paid full price and like the idea to saving $700. Any chance of finding a MW44 cheap?

Paul
RCdriver

Sorry Paul,
I'm quoting prices from Jet Hanger Int'l for the fella in the States. You're SOL in the UK when purchasing from JHI. VAT ya know!
Same place I got my WM44 Gold full autostart from too.

Seeya!

Dave

[/quote]

Sorry Paul,
I'm quoting prices from Jet Hanger Int'l for the fella in the States. You're SOL in the UK when purchasing from JHI. VAT ya know!
Same place I got my WM44 Gold full autostart from too.

Seeya!

Dave

[/quote]

Dave

The dreaded VAT [:@] thats the 17.5% local tax surcharge. I'm coming over this year and might buy the MW44 your side, just an idea I could have run it up, thens its used and 2nd hand. A saving of $700 would help on tickets etc. Hmmmmm this MW44 might yet fly, though not in my travel case.

Paul
RCdriver01