Composite-ARF Lightning Build Thread
#403

Gents,<div><span style="white-space
re"> </span>So now I have completed 15 flights with the UL, and am wondering if anyone has played around with the CofG postion. My flights were all done with CofG on the centre of wing tube. Has anyone moved back from this point? Has it had significant effect of flight characteristics. I would like it more neutral than what the current CofG was, hence my question. </div><div>Looking forward to some feedback.</div><div>
</div><div>Rgds</div><div>
</div><div>Mayur</div><div>
</div>
re"> </span>So now I have completed 15 flights with the UL, and am wondering if anyone has played around with the CofG postion. My flights were all done with CofG on the centre of wing tube. Has anyone moved back from this point? Has it had significant effect of flight characteristics. I would like it more neutral than what the current CofG was, hence my question. </div><div>Looking forward to some feedback.</div><div></div><div>Rgds</div><div>
</div><div>Mayur</div><div>
</div>
#404
Mayur,
When you say its balanced on the wing tube, is this with the wings on or off? I have mine balanced on the wing tube with the wings off and I find it extremely neutral. Just put the 132nd flight on mine at the weekend and I still love flying it as much as I did after the 10th flight.
Geoff.
When you say its balanced on the wing tube, is this with the wings on or off? I have mine balanced on the wing tube with the wings off and I find it extremely neutral. Just put the 132nd flight on mine at the weekend and I still love flying it as much as I did after the 10th flight.
Geoff.
#405

Hi geoff<div><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); "> Sorry, to clarify. Balanced on the tube with wings off. I guess I am asking in order to gather whether there is a sweet spot for a neutral plane. My background is pattern f3a and IMAC. The UL is 98% patternship. I wondered if the remaining 2% was achievable. </span></div><div><span style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469);">Have you experimented with cofg position?
</span><div><div>
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</span><div><div>
</div></div></div>
#406
Honest truth is that I am very happy with the way it flies so I haven't experimented and the model is a better flier than I am.
Having said that if you go ahead and find it can be improved I am very happy to move it based on your experience.
Having said that if you go ahead and find it can be improved I am very happy to move it based on your experience.
#407
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From: tampa,
FL
ORIGINAL: tassos p
my new ultra lightning in classic navy scheme
Dear Joe,
Your problem is not the cylinder stroke but the fact that the connecting rod is too short. CARF has a special upgrade kit (I think the p/n is 630525) which includes the cylinders and the extension rods that fit exactly to your application. This is what I've used in all my Lightnings. The kit cost around 85 Euro, but I'm not sure if they still have it available for you. You should ask them. Maybe Dave Wilshere can help you in this.
Here is a small pic that I found with the kit. The kit has only 2 cylinders and they are Robart type 1'' stroke.
The connecting rod is threaded at both ends with different threadings to fit the air-cylinder and the end-clevise.
Regards,
Tassos
ORIGINAL: JoeEagle my new ultra lightning in classic navy scheme...will have jetcat 180rx for power ...
Furloughed UAL
i am looking at the two pics in this post as i scratch my head thinking about my brain block on where to put my door cylinder. i have a 1'' (acutally, its more like 1.25'') throw cylinder from Ultra Precision. when i put it in the wheel well, i have to move it up to the opening of the wheel, and its kind of in the way if i try to put it at the top (mounting stance too wide) and in close to the wheel if i put it at the bottom.
i was just ready to tack glue in the ply mount, then looked again at this picture.
ooking at yours i am thinking that you have put a long extension on your cylinder rod. is that what you did? how long was the stroke? did you mount it where you did so you would be tied into the carbon cloth?
so, since my UP cylinder terminates in a 4-40 thread, what method are people using to make an extension? the only thing i can think of is to use a bit of CF tubing, screw it into the 4-40 (if i am lucky enough to have a perfect fit) then perhaps add a bit of Q-Poxy to secure it, and add some 4-40 threaded rod to the other end of the CF tube.
or, maybe just buy the robart cylinders?
also, i am a bit concerned about over driving the horn.....how does one prevent that? by perfectly sizing the stroke of the cylinder?
dumb questions but this is my 1st gear door install and i'd like to do it one time only.
thanks!!
Furloughed UAL
i am looking at the two pics in this post as i scratch my head thinking about my brain block on where to put my door cylinder. i have a 1'' (acutally, its more like 1.25'') throw cylinder from Ultra Precision. when i put it in the wheel well, i have to move it up to the opening of the wheel, and its kind of in the way if i try to put it at the top (mounting stance too wide) and in close to the wheel if i put it at the bottom.
i was just ready to tack glue in the ply mount, then looked again at this picture.
ooking at yours i am thinking that you have put a long extension on your cylinder rod. is that what you did? how long was the stroke? did you mount it where you did so you would be tied into the carbon cloth?
so, since my UP cylinder terminates in a 4-40 thread, what method are people using to make an extension? the only thing i can think of is to use a bit of CF tubing, screw it into the 4-40 (if i am lucky enough to have a perfect fit) then perhaps add a bit of Q-Poxy to secure it, and add some 4-40 threaded rod to the other end of the CF tube.
or, maybe just buy the robart cylinders?
also, i am a bit concerned about over driving the horn.....how does one prevent that? by perfectly sizing the stroke of the cylinder?
dumb questions but this is my 1st gear door install and i'd like to do it one time only.
thanks!!
Dear Joe,
Your problem is not the cylinder stroke but the fact that the connecting rod is too short. CARF has a special upgrade kit (I think the p/n is 630525) which includes the cylinders and the extension rods that fit exactly to your application. This is what I've used in all my Lightnings. The kit cost around 85 Euro, but I'm not sure if they still have it available for you. You should ask them. Maybe Dave Wilshere can help you in this.
Here is a small pic that I found with the kit. The kit has only 2 cylinders and they are Robart type 1'' stroke.
The connecting rod is threaded at both ends with different threadings to fit the air-cylinder and the end-clevise.
Regards,
Tassos
#408
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: tampa,
FL
ORIGINAL: ricardinho
ORIGINAL: tassos p
my new ultra lightning in classic navy scheme power will be jetcat 180 rx
Dear Joe,
Your problem is not the cylinder stroke but the fact that the connecting rod is too short. CARF has a special upgrade kit (I think the p/n is 630525) which includes the cylinders and the extension rods that fit exactly to your application. This is what I've used in all my Lightnings. The kit cost around 85 Euro, but I'm not sure if they still have it available for you. You should ask them. Maybe Dave Wilshere can help you in this.
Here is a small pic that I found with the kit. The kit has only 2 cylinders and they are Robart type 1'' stroke.
The connecting rod is threaded at both ends with different threadings to fit the air-cylinder and the end-clevise.
Regards,
Tassos
ORIGINAL: JoeEagle my new ultra lightning in classic navy scheme...will have jetcat 180rx for power ...
Furloughed UAL
i am looking at the two pics in this post as i scratch my head thinking about my brain block on where to put my door cylinder. i have a 1'' (acutally, its more like 1.25'') throw cylinder from Ultra Precision. when i put it in the wheel well, i have to move it up to the opening of the wheel, and its kind of in the way if i try to put it at the top (mounting stance too wide) and in close to the wheel if i put it at the bottom.
i was just ready to tack glue in the ply mount, then looked again at this picture.
ooking at yours i am thinking that you have put a long extension on your cylinder rod. is that what you did? how long was the stroke? did you mount it where you did so you would be tied into the carbon cloth?
so, since my UP cylinder terminates in a 4-40 thread, what method are people using to make an extension? the only thing i can think of is to use a bit of CF tubing, screw it into the 4-40 (if i am lucky enough to have a perfect fit) then perhaps add a bit of Q-Poxy to secure it, and add some 4-40 threaded rod to the other end of the CF tube.
or, maybe just buy the robart cylinders?
also, i am a bit concerned about over driving the horn.....how does one prevent that? by perfectly sizing the stroke of the cylinder?
dumb questions but this is my 1st gear door install and i'd like to do it one time only.
thanks!!
Furloughed UAL
i am looking at the two pics in this post as i scratch my head thinking about my brain block on where to put my door cylinder. i have a 1'' (acutally, its more like 1.25'') throw cylinder from Ultra Precision. when i put it in the wheel well, i have to move it up to the opening of the wheel, and its kind of in the way if i try to put it at the top (mounting stance too wide) and in close to the wheel if i put it at the bottom.
i was just ready to tack glue in the ply mount, then looked again at this picture.
ooking at yours i am thinking that you have put a long extension on your cylinder rod. is that what you did? how long was the stroke? did you mount it where you did so you would be tied into the carbon cloth?
so, since my UP cylinder terminates in a 4-40 thread, what method are people using to make an extension? the only thing i can think of is to use a bit of CF tubing, screw it into the 4-40 (if i am lucky enough to have a perfect fit) then perhaps add a bit of Q-Poxy to secure it, and add some 4-40 threaded rod to the other end of the CF tube.
or, maybe just buy the robart cylinders?
also, i am a bit concerned about over driving the horn.....how does one prevent that? by perfectly sizing the stroke of the cylinder?
dumb questions but this is my 1st gear door install and i'd like to do it one time only.
thanks!!
Dear Joe,
Your problem is not the cylinder stroke but the fact that the connecting rod is too short. CARF has a special upgrade kit (I think the p/n is 630525) which includes the cylinders and the extension rods that fit exactly to your application. This is what I've used in all my Lightnings. The kit cost around 85 Euro, but I'm not sure if they still have it available for you. You should ask them. Maybe Dave Wilshere can help you in this.
Here is a small pic that I found with the kit. The kit has only 2 cylinders and they are Robart type 1'' stroke.
The connecting rod is threaded at both ends with different threadings to fit the air-cylinder and the end-clevise.
Regards,
Tassos
#409
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,041
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Received 0 Likes
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From: tampa,
FL
ORIGINAL: ricardinho
ORIGINAL: ricardinho
ORIGINAL: tassos p
my new ultra lightning in classic navy scheme power will be jetcat 180 rx
Dear Joe,
Your problem is not the cylinder stroke but the fact that the connecting rod is too short. CARF has a special upgrade kit (I think the p/n is 630525) which includes the cylinders and the extension rods that fit exactly to your application. This is what I've used in all my Lightnings. The kit cost around 85 Euro, but I'm not sure if they still have it available for you. You should ask them. Maybe Dave Wilshere can help you in this.
Here is a small pic that I found with the kit. The kit has only 2 cylinders and they are Robart type 1'' stroke.
The connecting rod is threaded at both ends with different threadings to fit the air-cylinder and the end-clevise.
Regards,
tam jets thrust tube with tams stainless steel nozzel
Tassos
ORIGINAL: JoeEagle my new ultra lightning in classic navy scheme...will have jetcat 180rx for power ...
Furloughed UAL
i am looking at the two pics in this post as i scratch my head thinking about my brain block on where to put my door cylinder. i have a 1'' (acutally, its more like 1.25'') throw cylinder from Ultra Precision. when i put it in the wheel well, i have to move it up to the opening of the wheel, and its kind of in the way if i try to put it at the top (mounting stance too wide) and in close to the wheel if i put it at the bottom.
i was just ready to tack glue in the ply mount, then looked again at this picture.
ooking at yours i am thinking that you have put a long extension on your cylinder rod. is that what you did? how long was the stroke? did you mount it where you did so you would be tied into the carbon cloth?
so, since my UP cylinder terminates in a 4-40 thread, what method are people using to make an extension? the only thing i can think of is to use a bit of CF tubing, screw it into the 4-40 (if i am lucky enough to have a perfect fit) then perhaps add a bit of Q-Poxy to secure it, and add some 4-40 threaded rod to the other end of the CF tube.
or, maybe just buy the robart cylinders?
also, i am a bit concerned about over driving the horn.....how does one prevent that? by perfectly sizing the stroke of the cylinder?
dumb questions but this is my 1st gear door install and i'd like to do it one time only.
thanks!!
Furloughed UAL
i am looking at the two pics in this post as i scratch my head thinking about my brain block on where to put my door cylinder. i have a 1'' (acutally, its more like 1.25'') throw cylinder from Ultra Precision. when i put it in the wheel well, i have to move it up to the opening of the wheel, and its kind of in the way if i try to put it at the top (mounting stance too wide) and in close to the wheel if i put it at the bottom.
i was just ready to tack glue in the ply mount, then looked again at this picture.
ooking at yours i am thinking that you have put a long extension on your cylinder rod. is that what you did? how long was the stroke? did you mount it where you did so you would be tied into the carbon cloth?
so, since my UP cylinder terminates in a 4-40 thread, what method are people using to make an extension? the only thing i can think of is to use a bit of CF tubing, screw it into the 4-40 (if i am lucky enough to have a perfect fit) then perhaps add a bit of Q-Poxy to secure it, and add some 4-40 threaded rod to the other end of the CF tube.
or, maybe just buy the robart cylinders?
also, i am a bit concerned about over driving the horn.....how does one prevent that? by perfectly sizing the stroke of the cylinder?
dumb questions but this is my 1st gear door install and i'd like to do it one time only.
thanks!!
Dear Joe,
Your problem is not the cylinder stroke but the fact that the connecting rod is too short. CARF has a special upgrade kit (I think the p/n is 630525) which includes the cylinders and the extension rods that fit exactly to your application. This is what I've used in all my Lightnings. The kit cost around 85 Euro, but I'm not sure if they still have it available for you. You should ask them. Maybe Dave Wilshere can help you in this.
Here is a small pic that I found with the kit. The kit has only 2 cylinders and they are Robart type 1'' stroke.
The connecting rod is threaded at both ends with different threadings to fit the air-cylinder and the end-clevise.
Regards,
tam jets thrust tube with tams stainless steel nozzel
Tassos
#410
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: tampa,
FL
this a classic navy schemed that ray labonte had produced for me..its a custom scheme ...it will be powered by jetcat 180rx.. tams tube and nozzel..all 8711s, power box srs cockpit...bohetic retracts with prolink struts ,,cat uat...love the way this plane flys...




