Bob Cat Copy Falcon 120 Jet
#2326
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RE: Bob Cat Copy Falcon 120 Jet
Hey Bird..........
I E-Mailed you about the replacement canopy for the 120 and have not heard back.
Are you still interested?
Ray
[email protected]
I E-Mailed you about the replacement canopy for the 120 and have not heard back.
Are you still interested?
Ray
[email protected]
#2329
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RE: Bob Cat Copy Falcon 120 Jet
To post pictures just click at the bottom of the text box were is say file and it will bring up a window to browse files to select then press the OK button.
#2330
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RE: Bob Cat Copy Falcon 120 Jet
The canopies are $15.00 ea. + $10.00 S&H for a Tot. $40.00
I accept PayPal. If you have a PayPal account you can post Payment to my E-Mail address.
Or I can E-Mail you a PayPal money request that will allow you to use a credit card
Let me know. Thanks for telling me how to do the pictures.
Ray
[email protected]
I accept PayPal. If you have a PayPal account you can post Payment to my E-Mail address.
Or I can E-Mail you a PayPal money request that will allow you to use a credit card
Let me know. Thanks for telling me how to do the pictures.
Ray
[email protected]
#2333
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RE: Bob Cat Copy Falcon 120 Jet
Well. Here is my effort at reinventing the wheel. I used the KISS principal.
Purchased the metel at Aircraft Spruce. About $20.00 for (2) 6' pieces.
Only tools used was a band saw and a small drill press.
Purchased the metel at Aircraft Spruce. About $20.00 for (2) 6' pieces.
Only tools used was a band saw and a small drill press.
#2335
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RE: Bob Cat Copy Falcon 120 Jet
Finally finished Falcon 120 and ready for first flight, fingers crossed. I have carried out all the mods mentioned in this thread. Formers re-glued with Hysol,
WINGS
The cardboard wing tubes have been soaked in thin superglue, along with one large tube poured into each wing to strengthen all joints, making the flap and aileron servos flush mounted helped to gain access, I also poured Godzilla glue down all wing joints, so the wings should be good and strong. The nylon securing bolts where replaced with metal studding and I used wing nuts to secure the wing, the front dowel was replaced with an MFI cabinet lock nut and stud, the type used to fit kitchen units together, the locking nut is fixed inside the fuselage and it pulls the leading edge in nicely, The aileron and flap servos are Hitec 7475HB, with the flaps programmed for slow speed, and Ashlok 12 way connectors to connect the wing wiring to the fuselage, and a 6 way to connect the booms, the front alloy spar has been replaced with a 10mm solid carbon rod.
Booms
All inside covered with thin superglue and Hysol, tail section covered in Aluminum to act as heat shield, servos Hitec 5345mg used on rudders and elevators and all servos moved to the inside with ball joints and carbon rods. Connection to servos through 6 way Ashlok connectors.
FUSELARGE
All formers removed and the two rear formers shaped to take a 2ltr coke bottle (intend to check and replace regularly), two new rear formers made to shape of coke bottle and covered in fuel tubing to help prevent wear on bottle, these are screwed to existing formers for easy removal. New tray made to take electronics ect. All the fuel fittings (pump, header ect ) located in rear with two alloy vents on bottom of fuselage to drain fuel should I have a leak or burst tank. Then belly was covered in 2†carbon cloth as I’m sure you could poke your finger through it, The rear turbine tray is supported by aluminum angle (page 82), thanks Boomerang1. I made two thin ply cases (with holes in) to take two 2200 7.4v batteries, the cases are glued in and the batteries slid in and are held by valcro for easy removal. Inside painted the same as SJN’s (page 55), and looks very professional.
Undercarriage
The retracts where supplied by Wholesale planes and fit very well, came complete with tank, valve, gauge, piping ect all for only 60 pounds, the main legs might need to be changed and where made out of two paint rollers from B&Q 6mm chrome spring steel, and the wheels from Motors and Rotors about 4 pounds each, better than paying 382 pounds at the moment for Pro-Lynx setup, but I might have to go this way later.
Turbine
Wren 54, no problems fitting and just used wooden blocks supplied, and made 5 degree down thrust and fixed in place with 4mm steel studding, four gold bling nuts secure it.
Parts used
Futaba 2.4ghz 8 channel receiver
Two 2200ma 7.4v Lipo Batteries
One Flight Tech 8amp regulator supplying 5.8V
Bvm air trap
Ailerons / Flap HS 5475hb
Elv / Rudder HS 5245MG
Throws C og G 13â€
Aileron low = 20mm, high = 25mm
Flap low = 20 deg, high = 45 deg
Elv low = 15mm, high = 21mm
Rud low = 30mm, high = 30mm
Looking through the thread I think everything has been done to make this plane turbine ready and the control throws should be ok, but let me know if you thing I should change them before first flight. Just waiting for the weather to warm up a bit so I can do more than one circuit before my fingers freeze, still cold up here in Lincolnshire, Will let you know how I get on.
WINGS
The cardboard wing tubes have been soaked in thin superglue, along with one large tube poured into each wing to strengthen all joints, making the flap and aileron servos flush mounted helped to gain access, I also poured Godzilla glue down all wing joints, so the wings should be good and strong. The nylon securing bolts where replaced with metal studding and I used wing nuts to secure the wing, the front dowel was replaced with an MFI cabinet lock nut and stud, the type used to fit kitchen units together, the locking nut is fixed inside the fuselage and it pulls the leading edge in nicely, The aileron and flap servos are Hitec 7475HB, with the flaps programmed for slow speed, and Ashlok 12 way connectors to connect the wing wiring to the fuselage, and a 6 way to connect the booms, the front alloy spar has been replaced with a 10mm solid carbon rod.
Booms
All inside covered with thin superglue and Hysol, tail section covered in Aluminum to act as heat shield, servos Hitec 5345mg used on rudders and elevators and all servos moved to the inside with ball joints and carbon rods. Connection to servos through 6 way Ashlok connectors.
FUSELARGE
All formers removed and the two rear formers shaped to take a 2ltr coke bottle (intend to check and replace regularly), two new rear formers made to shape of coke bottle and covered in fuel tubing to help prevent wear on bottle, these are screwed to existing formers for easy removal. New tray made to take electronics ect. All the fuel fittings (pump, header ect ) located in rear with two alloy vents on bottom of fuselage to drain fuel should I have a leak or burst tank. Then belly was covered in 2†carbon cloth as I’m sure you could poke your finger through it, The rear turbine tray is supported by aluminum angle (page 82), thanks Boomerang1. I made two thin ply cases (with holes in) to take two 2200 7.4v batteries, the cases are glued in and the batteries slid in and are held by valcro for easy removal. Inside painted the same as SJN’s (page 55), and looks very professional.
Undercarriage
The retracts where supplied by Wholesale planes and fit very well, came complete with tank, valve, gauge, piping ect all for only 60 pounds, the main legs might need to be changed and where made out of two paint rollers from B&Q 6mm chrome spring steel, and the wheels from Motors and Rotors about 4 pounds each, better than paying 382 pounds at the moment for Pro-Lynx setup, but I might have to go this way later.
Turbine
Wren 54, no problems fitting and just used wooden blocks supplied, and made 5 degree down thrust and fixed in place with 4mm steel studding, four gold bling nuts secure it.
Parts used
Futaba 2.4ghz 8 channel receiver
Two 2200ma 7.4v Lipo Batteries
One Flight Tech 8amp regulator supplying 5.8V
Bvm air trap
Ailerons / Flap HS 5475hb
Elv / Rudder HS 5245MG
Throws C og G 13â€
Aileron low = 20mm, high = 25mm
Flap low = 20 deg, high = 45 deg
Elv low = 15mm, high = 21mm
Rud low = 30mm, high = 30mm
Looking through the thread I think everything has been done to make this plane turbine ready and the control throws should be ok, but let me know if you thing I should change them before first flight. Just waiting for the weather to warm up a bit so I can do more than one circuit before my fingers freeze, still cold up here in Lincolnshire, Will let you know how I get on.
#2336
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RE: Bob Cat Copy Falcon 120 Jet
ORIGINAL: semc
Finally finished Falcon 120 and ready for first flight, fingers crossed. I have carried out all the mods mentioned in this thread. Formers re-glued with Hysol,
WINGS
The cardboard wing tubes have been soaked in thin superglue, along with one large tube poured into each wing to strengthen all joints, making the flap and aileron servos flush mounted helped to gain access, I also poured Godzilla glue down all wing joints, so the wings should be good and strong. The nylon securing bolts where replaced with metal studding and I used wing nuts to secure the wing, the front dowel was replaced with an MFI cabinet lock nut and stud, the type used to fit kitchen units together, the locking nut is fixed inside the fuselage and it pulls the leading edge in nicely, The aileron and flap servos are Hitec 7475HB, with the flaps programmed for slow speed, and Ashlok 12 way connectors to connect the wing wiring to the fuselage, and a 6 way to connect the booms, the front alloy spar has been replaced with a 10mm solid carbon rod.
Booms
All inside covered with thin superglue and Hysol, tail section covered in Aluminum to act as heat shield, servos Hitec 5345mg used on rudders and elevators and all servos moved to the inside with ball joints and carbon rods. Connection to servos through 6 way Ashlok connectors.
FUSELARGE
All formers removed and the two rear formers shaped to take a 2ltr coke bottle (intend to check and replace regularly), two new rear formers made to shape of coke bottle and covered in fuel tubing to help prevent wear on bottle, these are screwed to existing formers for easy removal. New tray made to take electronics ect. All the fuel fittings (pump, header ect ) located in rear with two alloy vents on bottom of fuselage to drain fuel should I have a leak or burst tank. Then belly was covered in 2†carbon cloth as I’m sure you could poke your finger through it, The rear turbine tray is supported by aluminum angle (page 82), thanks Boomerang1. I made two thin ply cases (with holes in) to take two 2200 7.4v batteries, the cases are glued in and the batteries slid in and are held by valcro for easy removal. Inside painted the same as SJN’s (page 55), and looks very professional.
Undercarriage
The retracts where supplied by Wholesale planes and fit very well, came complete with tank, valve, gauge, piping ect all for only 60 pounds, the main legs might need to be changed and where made out of two paint rollers from B&Q 6mm chrome spring steel, and the wheels from Motors and Rotors about 4 pounds each, better than paying 382 pounds at the moment for Pro-Lynx setup, but I might have to go this way later.
Turbine
Wren 54, no problems fitting and just used wooden blocks supplied, and made 5 degree down thrust and fixed in place with 4mm steel studding, four gold bling nuts secure it.
Parts used
Futaba 2.4ghz 8 channel receiver
Two 2200ma 7.4v Lipo Batteries
One Flight Tech 8amp regulator supplying 5.8V
Bvm air trap
Ailerons / Flap HS 5475hb
Elv / Rudder HS 5245MG
Throws C og G 13â€
Aileron low = 20mm, high = 25mm
Flap low = 20 deg, high = 45 deg
Elv low = 15mm, high = 21mm
Rud low = 30mm, high = 30mm
Looking through the thread I think everything has been done to make this plane turbine ready and the control throws should be ok, but let me know if you thing I should change them before first flight. Just waiting for the weather to warm up a bit so I can do more than one circuit before my fingers freeze, still cold up here in Lincolnshire, Will let you know how I get on.
Finally finished Falcon 120 and ready for first flight, fingers crossed. I have carried out all the mods mentioned in this thread. Formers re-glued with Hysol,
WINGS
The cardboard wing tubes have been soaked in thin superglue, along with one large tube poured into each wing to strengthen all joints, making the flap and aileron servos flush mounted helped to gain access, I also poured Godzilla glue down all wing joints, so the wings should be good and strong. The nylon securing bolts where replaced with metal studding and I used wing nuts to secure the wing, the front dowel was replaced with an MFI cabinet lock nut and stud, the type used to fit kitchen units together, the locking nut is fixed inside the fuselage and it pulls the leading edge in nicely, The aileron and flap servos are Hitec 7475HB, with the flaps programmed for slow speed, and Ashlok 12 way connectors to connect the wing wiring to the fuselage, and a 6 way to connect the booms, the front alloy spar has been replaced with a 10mm solid carbon rod.
Booms
All inside covered with thin superglue and Hysol, tail section covered in Aluminum to act as heat shield, servos Hitec 5345mg used on rudders and elevators and all servos moved to the inside with ball joints and carbon rods. Connection to servos through 6 way Ashlok connectors.
FUSELARGE
All formers removed and the two rear formers shaped to take a 2ltr coke bottle (intend to check and replace regularly), two new rear formers made to shape of coke bottle and covered in fuel tubing to help prevent wear on bottle, these are screwed to existing formers for easy removal. New tray made to take electronics ect. All the fuel fittings (pump, header ect ) located in rear with two alloy vents on bottom of fuselage to drain fuel should I have a leak or burst tank. Then belly was covered in 2†carbon cloth as I’m sure you could poke your finger through it, The rear turbine tray is supported by aluminum angle (page 82), thanks Boomerang1. I made two thin ply cases (with holes in) to take two 2200 7.4v batteries, the cases are glued in and the batteries slid in and are held by valcro for easy removal. Inside painted the same as SJN’s (page 55), and looks very professional.
Undercarriage
The retracts where supplied by Wholesale planes and fit very well, came complete with tank, valve, gauge, piping ect all for only 60 pounds, the main legs might need to be changed and where made out of two paint rollers from B&Q 6mm chrome spring steel, and the wheels from Motors and Rotors about 4 pounds each, better than paying 382 pounds at the moment for Pro-Lynx setup, but I might have to go this way later.
Turbine
Wren 54, no problems fitting and just used wooden blocks supplied, and made 5 degree down thrust and fixed in place with 4mm steel studding, four gold bling nuts secure it.
Parts used
Futaba 2.4ghz 8 channel receiver
Two 2200ma 7.4v Lipo Batteries
One Flight Tech 8amp regulator supplying 5.8V
Bvm air trap
Ailerons / Flap HS 5475hb
Elv / Rudder HS 5245MG
Throws C og G 13â€
Aileron low = 20mm, high = 25mm
Flap low = 20 deg, high = 45 deg
Elv low = 15mm, high = 21mm
Rud low = 30mm, high = 30mm
Looking through the thread I think everything has been done to make this plane turbine ready and the control throws should be ok, but let me know if you thing I should change them before first flight. Just waiting for the weather to warm up a bit so I can do more than one circuit before my fingers freeze, still cold up here in Lincolnshire, Will let you know how I get on.
throws are ok but you might find you only need low rates ( depends on how you fly ) like the tank set up pop bottles are very strong, if that splites that will be the least of your worries[] 13" c of g works well .
#2337
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RE: Bob Cat Copy Falcon 120 Jet
Thanks for the info, I like your colour scheme and setup, it took me ages reading every entry in this thread, and making notes as I went along, I will use the low rates for the first flight, I have -15 set on my expo so it should soften it a bit, just waiting for the warm weather now.
#2338
RE: Bob Cat Copy Falcon 120 Jet
Noray, your gear looks good. Quite a few of us including myself have made our own gear and they all seem to work O/K. How do you think the silicon tube will hold up as a spring?
regards, Aussie
regards, Aussie
#2339
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RE: Bob Cat Copy Falcon 120 Jet
Aussie.
Only time will tell. My past experience is that it is very tough stuff. Many people still use it for bungie cord to launch gliders and it seems to last forever. The big advantage in my app. is that I can ajust the tension by changing the width of the band. If it weekens over a preiod of time it will be easy to change out. Do you have any ideas on this subject?
NORRAY
Only time will tell. My past experience is that it is very tough stuff. Many people still use it for bungie cord to launch gliders and it seems to last forever. The big advantage in my app. is that I can ajust the tension by changing the width of the band. If it weekens over a preiod of time it will be easy to change out. Do you have any ideas on this subject?
NORRAY
#2341
RE: Bob Cat Copy Falcon 120 Jet
Noray, I used a similar design to yours but used springs secured arround the leg in the same place as your tubing. The legs are 1/2 inch aircraft grade ali rod bought from the local hobby shop. These are my third attempt and are far stronger than my previous efforts. Grass flying will put tremendous forces on the undercarriage and wing structure.
#2342
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RE: Bob Cat Copy Falcon 120 Jet
This may be a dumb question, but how does everyone transport their Falcon 120??? Do you leave it assembled, take the booms off, or take the booms and wings off??? I have a Commodore wagon!
Mav
Mav
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RE: Bob Cat Copy Falcon 120 Jet
I leave mine assembled also. I dont have a choice on the booms, mine are hysoled on.
Breakdown and transportation my be the biggest drawback to this airframe, But you cant have everything for the price these sell for
Breakdown and transportation my be the biggest drawback to this airframe, But you cant have everything for the price these sell for
#2345
RE: Bob Cat Copy Falcon 120 Jet
One idea I have seen is to leave the tailplane attached to the booms and make up a spreader rod to go inbetween them bolted to the installed blind nuts so you just remove the booms, and leave the wings on the fus, that way you only have two servo connections to do up when you reinstall the booms, also makes the fus and wings much easier to get in a smaller vehicle.
Mike
Mike
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RE: Bob Cat Copy Falcon 120 Jet
Aussie. I got the idea from you in an earlier post. Mine is an effort to keep the struts compact. (max. dia. 1/2") and to eliminate all that fileing and grinding. Only time will tell as to the durability.
Noray
Noray