GlennisAircraft

My Feedback: (1)

Our product is what it is - and what is always has been - this year our 20th year.

We can't be everything to everyone, we just offer what we do.

If you feel that you what you have isn't working, we are here, we added 90 new products last year, for all models, jets included.

We have always offered upgrade options for all of the Yellow products, and all other manufacturers, and will continue to do so in the future. It is not a criticism of them personally, but an effort to make the hobby better for everyone.


Dennis

Shaun Evans

Hey,

So, I've just come from the shop where I finish-sanded my wings, stabs, fins, rudder, ailerons and flaps in about 45 minutes. Here's what I found:

1. West System thinned with denatured alcohol, in spite of their disavowing the resultant quality if you do that, sands to a fine powder when cured.

2. The polyester cloth method of Terry Holston's is great. I modified it somewhat, though. I applied the cloth with the paintbrush method and let it cure. I lightly sanded and trimmed it and prepped it for what I would normally do--apply a second coat of even thinner resin to fll the weave. Instead of doing that, and condemning myself to hours of wet-sanding to get the brush strokes out, I used Terry's fine polyester fabric method. I laid it over the surface and brushed my thinned-out resin right through the fabric the same way I would if I were using glass cloth. When it cured, I pulled the polyester free and was left with a surface that felt like shark skin. I hit that with 180 grit low-clog paper, then 220 grit, then 320 grit. After I pulled the polyester fabric off (which is actually kinda fun), I did this to all of the above-mentioned parts in about 45 mintues. I tested one part by spraying some rattle-can automovite primer on it. Guess what? Not a single pinhole or blemish. This is the smoothest, cleanest glass-job I've ever done. Easiest, too.

3. Terry Holston should be Knighted.

Shaun Evans

Hey,

Got some more work done today. Got the fiberglass fin tips glued on, but the fit was funny due to some screwups I had to fix. I used bondo (for the first time) to fill it and will go back and sand it out later today. I'll post a pic or two then.

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

I started laying out equipment and trays for everything.. got started on the air system tray the other day, and this is what i came out with.

jroth

My Feedback: (60)

Hi,
I am looking for some help.
Where do the elevator servos go?
Where do the rudder servos go?
Are most people filling the seam between the Verticle Fin and the Fuselage?
I have alot more questions, but this will keep me busy for awhile.
Thanks,
John

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

John,
the elevator and rudder servo's mount on their sides in the fuselage where the "hole" is for the wing fairings.. In the first pic, you'll see the group of bundled wires.. thats where the rudder servo is, and the elevator servo typically goes right infront of it. in the 2nd pic, you can just see the servo horn sticking down from the top of the picture.

dbarrym

My Feedback: (47)

Thomas - are those HS-50 or 55 servos on your air valves? If so, these will NOT work in this application. [X(]

You need 40-45 oz/in servos at a minimum, especially with heavy gear and struts like the Twin has. Use HS85MG's or better....and note that I have stripped the gears on the 85MG on a BVM heavy duty air valve when a dry O-ring bound up.

Barry

kevinthoele

My Feedback: (1)

I know the person that made the quote on yellows original brake system to Glennis. He and I both changed out our Hornets to Glennis system and it has been fantastic for 8 years of perfomance with only one set of replacement tires. The jet still flys today.

They are very scale and work perfect every time.

Yellow makes a great F-18 and Glennis is the only wheels and brakes to put on them.

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

Barry,
there' 55's as they are what i had laying around and figured i'd put them to use. i tested them w/ 150psi of air and they moved the valve decently, but i believe i will be replacing them with something else...

Shaun Evans

Jroth,

Is it just my eyes or do you have a 4-40 rod for a rudder torque rod? I don't know what you're planning to power your bird with, but I think your rudder torque rods may prove to be too flexible for those rudders. Are your rudders already glued in?

Invert,

What are you, a plastic surgeon? Those carbon trays must be expensive! Isn't it a pain to be swapping servos when you have to cut the holes out of carbon plate? I just use plywood then add the sticky-back "graphite" decal to the wood!

Shaun Evans

Hi,

So what are you guys using for body filler (for fin-tip joints, etc.)? I tried Bondo, but that stuff's WAY too hard. Is there anything out there like spot putty but not so crack-prone?

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

shaun,
nope i wish, i just fly kingair's for a living. that is the 1/16" diamond plate stuff i have. what you see took about 20 minutes to make. I used a drill to put holes in the corners of the openings and a dremel w/ a cutoff disc to cut between the drill holes. works very well, but is very dusty. plus i figured i'd have the most blinged out F-18 interior. haha

I'm also use the bondo brand "glazing and spot putty" for filling in imperfections, it works very well and is easily sandable..

jroth

My Feedback: (60)

Sean,
Yes it is 4-40 rod, what should I use?
I will be using an AMT-450 for power, the rudders are not glued in the verticle stab yet.
Please give me a call when you get a chance.
Thanks,
John Roth
877-710-8200

Shaun Evans

Hi,

With that much power, you might want to plan for enough speed to flutter those rudders if they're too springy. Where are the stock torque rods? They're very thick, but rigid. Also, you may want to consider upgrading those brakes.........

I'll call you in a few hours.

SPLIT S

USC Kombi putty. Very cheap, dries quick and sands great. Available at your local Autobody supply store. It's what you see on the bypass ducts over in my Hornet thread. I'll post a pic of the stuff tonight if you would like.

Dan

SDCrashmaster

What brakes are those. In all my experience in detailing these gear, I thought I'd seen them all (YA/Glennis)...but haven't seen these, not even on the "old" struts.

Modelman

My Feedback: (7)

Shaun,

I've always used Evercoat. I'm sure there are other Polyester Glazing Putties out there.

Evercoat sands very easily to a fine feathered edge and cures very quickly!

http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=29

Hope this helps!

C.

Shaun Evans

Paul,

Those are generation one of the old fuel-tubing brakes.

ianober

My Feedback: (12)

Evercoat is the bomb!!!

Shaun Evans

What have you used it on?

ianober

My Feedback: (12)

I have used it on wood and fiberglass. I use it to repair things such as corners get broken off of landing gear doors and such. I have also used it to recreate humps and bumps of the sort by letting a glob setup and then carving it while it is setting up. Dries nice and fast too. It sands better then Bondo in my opinion and a 1 gallon can has lasted me more than a couple of years. It is automotive grade so it does feather very nicely.

SPLIT S

Get the Evercoat Euro-Soft - sands even better than the original.

Dan

mr_matt

My Feedback: (10)

I use stuff called "split second"

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

anyone know of a way to get in touch w/ Gary Mueller at Jet-Tech? I've sent 3 or 4 emails and called twice and have never gotten a reply from any of them... kinda getting aggrivated, as i need tanks.

yeahbaby

My Feedback: (21)

call him during regular working hours.. 8-5 if I remember correctly