Skymaster L39 build
#76
Thread Starter

Hi Guys
Measured my rudder movement and have 1 1/4 inch travel. Decided not to use the Bypass but might try it after a few flights.
I buy my decals from:
http://www.tailormadedecals.com/
Expensive but in my opinion worth it. He will make anything you want.
Cheers, Alex
Measured my rudder movement and have 1 1/4 inch travel. Decided not to use the Bypass but might try it after a few flights.
I buy my decals from:
http://www.tailormadedecals.com/
Expensive but in my opinion worth it. He will make anything you want.
Cheers, Alex
#77
Senior Member
My Feedback: (17)
ok, I started mine sooner then I thought I would... I have all the hinges Hysoled in place for the gear doors, and I mounted the servos into the rudder and stabs. seems the servos in those 3 locations will be the hardest part of the build........and I used the larger servos which made it a little pain in the butt, but there in and not coming out..
now I just have to figure out a way to get the wires up the tail for the lights.
Mark
now I just have to figure out a way to get the wires up the tail for the lights.
Mark
#78
Thread Starter

Hi Mark
Did those servos have their mounts pre installed or did you have to fabricate your own? Be interested to see if the newer kits have addressed some of the issues with this model.
Cheers, Alex
Did those servos have their mounts pre installed or did you have to fabricate your own? Be interested to see if the newer kits have addressed some of the issues with this model.
Cheers, Alex
#80
Hi Alex and Mark.
I received my kit 2 weeks ago from China.
There are no servo mounts.
My friend brought over his landing gear from his new Viper yesterday. They are fluid and air activated. It would be nice if that change were made to the L-39 also.
Stan
I received my kit 2 weeks ago from China.
There are no servo mounts.
My friend brought over his landing gear from his new Viper yesterday. They are fluid and air activated. It would be nice if that change were made to the L-39 also.
Stan
#81
Thread Starter

Shame they havent upgraded the gear. The Viper is vastly more expensive though. No excuses for the servo mounts...........
Cheers, Alex
Cheers, Alex
#82
Senior Member
My Feedback: (17)
I will have all 3 servos in the tail complete this evening, it is a pain in the butt, i had to dremel alot of the over use of Hysol in the one stab, but the mounts are in. this seems like it should be a quick build, the hard part is almost complete.
#85
Senior Member
My Feedback: (17)
ok, moving along with my SKYMASTER L-39. I have the 3 servos mounted in the tail, just have to cut the slot for servo arms. tonight I mounted the gear, when I set the jet on the wheels, I noticed alot of negative nose attitude.
Alex, did you have the same issue? and I am thinking it will become less as I add the equipment and turbine?
the more I work on the jet, the more I am really looking forward to flying it.......
mark
Alex, did you have the same issue? and I am thinking it will become less as I add the equipment and turbine?
the more I work on the jet, the more I am really looking forward to flying it.......
mark
#86
Thread Starter

Hi Mark
It gets better once you start putting some weight in it. I did pack the front retract as much as possible. The front oleo spring will probably need changing as it's very soft. When you apply power the nose will pitch down giving an even more negative stance making the rotation very jerky. It would cope better off a hard surface how it comes out the box. For grass I think the spring mod is essential.
HTH
Alex
It gets better once you start putting some weight in it. I did pack the front retract as much as possible. The front oleo spring will probably need changing as it's very soft. When you apply power the nose will pitch down giving an even more negative stance making the rotation very jerky. It would cope better off a hard surface how it comes out the box. For grass I think the spring mod is essential.
HTH
Alex
#89

My Feedback: (23)
about the aileron servos i dont agree how the manual show to instal the L aluminium suport to the wood and the servo.
my way you get the corect height for the servo and the servo screws go vertigal in the wood nerves and not paralel with the danger to seperate.
hysol everything and its good to go!
poor photos becouse of iphone use
my way you get the corect height for the servo and the servo screws go vertigal in the wood nerves and not paralel with the danger to seperate.
hysol everything and its good to go!
poor photos becouse of iphone use
#90

My Feedback: (23)
about the stab servos...
we used a very strong flash light behind the stab and you can see there is a good space in the center of the stab to have the servo..
with a hach like for the ailerons..
anyway i went with the manual on this one and made the two small wood servo suports
tight fit and i removed some of the wood of the stab to get the corect depth..
i used a plastic bag just to protect the servo of gluing together with the stab so i can remove it later..
hysol everythink in there and push it in..
forgive my poor english
BigCat over + out
we used a very strong flash light behind the stab and you can see there is a good space in the center of the stab to have the servo..
with a hach like for the ailerons..
anyway i went with the manual on this one and made the two small wood servo suports
tight fit and i removed some of the wood of the stab to get the corect depth..
i used a plastic bag just to protect the servo of gluing together with the stab so i can remove it later..
hysol everythink in there and push it in..
forgive my poor english
BigCat over + out
#92
Thread Starter

Hello
Been a bit lazy on the 39 recently, built a fair few models in the last 3/4 months so having a rest.........until early Jan anyway [sm=regular_smile.gif]
Having said that I did fancy a bit of modeling today so managed to spray a few black bits. It's just lacking the gear doors and decals on the forward fuz in the pics.
Cheers, Alex
Been a bit lazy on the 39 recently, built a fair few models in the last 3/4 months so having a rest.........until early Jan anyway [sm=regular_smile.gif]
Having said that I did fancy a bit of modeling today so managed to spray a few black bits. It's just lacking the gear doors and decals on the forward fuz in the pics.
Cheers, Alex
#94

My Feedback: (20)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 405
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From: Raeford,
NC
Great Job Alex.
What thickness of clear plastic did you use for the lenses BTW? I was going to heat .015 clear styrene and form that over the tip but that seems a little too thin. Thanks
What thickness of clear plastic did you use for the lenses BTW? I was going to heat .015 clear styrene and form that over the tip but that seems a little too thin. Thanks
#95
Thread Starter

Hi Guys
The layout wasn't too much of a problem. Having the full depth cockpits means its not possible to use the front tray but if you mount the bits on the floor its fine, I used the front for the ECU, pump and air-tanks think there's a picture of my layout further back in the thread. With the aft tray you have to be careful with the height of the equipment. Plenty of space on the sides and a little at the front of the tray where I mounter the 5U pro valve. It did take me a while to get the things positioned correctly.
The Plastic I used was 3mm in thickness, it depends on how far you want to pull it but I found anything between 2-3mm works well. Sorry for the metric measurements.
Cheers, Alex
The layout wasn't too much of a problem. Having the full depth cockpits means its not possible to use the front tray but if you mount the bits on the floor its fine, I used the front for the ECU, pump and air-tanks think there's a picture of my layout further back in the thread. With the aft tray you have to be careful with the height of the equipment. Plenty of space on the sides and a little at the front of the tray where I mounter the 5U pro valve. It did take me a while to get the things positioned correctly.
The Plastic I used was 3mm in thickness, it depends on how far you want to pull it but I found anything between 2-3mm works well. Sorry for the metric measurements.
Cheers, Alex
#96

My Feedback: (20)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 405
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From: Raeford,
NC
Thanks again Alex.
The conversion works out to .11 of an inch for 3 mm (see link below to conversion chart). A little thicker than what i was using. Keep the updates coming.
http://www.worldwidemetric.com/metcal.htm
v/r
Ken
The conversion works out to .11 of an inch for 3 mm (see link below to conversion chart). A little thicker than what i was using. Keep the updates coming.
http://www.worldwidemetric.com/metcal.htm
v/r
Ken
#98
Thread Starter

Good idea.........wish I'd done that.
I found the bottom tank interfered with the aft cockpit too. Shame they made it so big, just 10mm shorter would have avoided lots of hassle.
Cheers, Alex
I found the bottom tank interfered with the aft cockpit too. Shame they made it so big, just 10mm shorter would have avoided lots of hassle.
Cheers, Alex
#99

My Feedback: (23)
Com on Alex thats not an exuse mate
just turn it around...sometimes when i finish building im bord too[&o] to go back again
two powerbox lipos in the nose with jetcats lipo
in a try to avoid extra waith in the nose so to achive proper cg...so total waith low
intake cut out to bring engine forward as far as posible..longer pipe will be used ofcource
we will see at the end how it balance
...forgive my poor english
just turn it around...sometimes when i finish building im bord too[&o] to go back again
two powerbox lipos in the nose with jetcats lipo
in a try to avoid extra waith in the nose so to achive proper cg...so total waith low
intake cut out to bring engine forward as far as posible..longer pipe will be used ofcource
we will see at the end how it balance
...forgive my poor english
#100
Thread Starter

Com on Alex thats not an exuse mate
just turn it around...sometimes when i finish building im bord too to go back again
just turn it around...sometimes when i finish building im bord too to go back again
Just a note on the air-tank capacity. With the supplied air bottle I was getting only two complete cycles of the gear until I got down to 50psi. You could get three but it wasn't comfortable. I tee'd another bottle into the system and now get 7 cycles...........Could have used the brake bottle but decided to keep the two systems separate.
Cheers, Alex


