RCU Forums - Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5

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Hi Guys,
First of all ,I would like to thanks all guys for this wonderful thread it's
Contain helpful information :)
I decided to order mk66 and I need to know the dimensions elevators and rudder
In fact I have GMC Safari and I'm afraid that there is no space
The length enough, but I am afraid of the width and height
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=1917329

elevator and rudder are removable, so no problem;)

Quote:

I'm afraid that there is no space

You know the stab and fin come off don't you?!

Thanks Guys
I did not know that before :rolleyes:
Actually I'm going to build it for international competition so any advice and helpful websites?

I want one!.. Subscribed:)

Looking great Inconel.. General question; are you guys trailering, or has anyone fit this in a Minivan?
thanks, Jay

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueBus320 (Post 11649336)

Looking great Inconel.. General question; are you guys trailering, or has anyone fit this in a Minivan?
thanks, Jay

I have a big car

Quote:

Originally Posted by Inconel (Post 11649338)

I have a big car

I'm guessing the nose separates from the fuse for transport? I don't like to trailer because I need to use parkways to get to my local field & trailers are not allowed. If the fuse does not separate, then it would appear to be prohibitively large to transport via car/minivan, I just took a bunch of measurements inside my 2012 Chrysler Town & Country, & I don't see it fitting in there without breaking down the fuse.
Thanks, Jay

A friend transport his Hawk in a normal Mercedes ML. So i think its no problem for other cars in this size.
The nose is removable, yes.

Jay,
I can fit my THawk in my Audi A6 (stationcar), and that is even with the wings in the frame that Tomahawk sells for the wings! The nose can be removed with 6 screws (M4). I have made a very long hex driver that can reach the top 2 screws from the two air scoops on the top of the fuse. The bottom 2 screws I can reach from the wheel openings and the 2 screws in the middle also from the wheel openings (reaching up besides the inlets). Assembling/disassembling the two fuse parts takes max 3 to 5 minutes once you have done it a few times.

Awesome guys, I'm back in this one!:)
Thank you

Nice Joerg.

Be be good to see your install pictures as that the parts of your builds I really enjoy.

I'm back to mine now. Hope to have it finished for paint by the end of the year.

I have a 100 that I am starting this week. Please keep posting pics VERY valuable to me.
Thanks

Hi ,I am looking for a Tamahawk Mk-66 Hawk kit ,will also consider partially built or RTF, does any one have one or know of anyone willing to part with one?

Thanks in Advance for help

J.C. Alvarez

Quote:

Originally Posted by Remco45 (Post 9755245)

Regarding the discussion on SG Hawk build - virtual manual about the stab pivot point (see David's post 364 and further), I can confirm that it's located further aft than should be scale-wise: 188 mm from the leading edge i.s.o. 162,9 mm.
I've decided to take over David's modification to reverse the pivot mounts and use two stronger servo's (BLS 152).
This also enables to make the stab cover plates and tracks almost perfectly on scale, again a nice modification from David (see his post 381).

Because the pivot mounts are a new design, four new holes need to be drilled and care must be taken to take over the alignment exactly!
Minor adjustment to the cutouts for the stab bridge are required.
Although the new, more forward pivot point increases stabilizer effectivity, the cutouts were made large enough to enable the originally specified stab throws.
The circumference lines for the stab cover plates are now less than 1 mm off.

Guys,

Has anyone flown their Tomahawk Hawk with the reversed (but more scale positioned) pivot positions?

I'm sure it's more scale but does it change the aerodynamic pivot point? I don't want to be messing with that.

Rgds,
Mark

Quote:

Originally Posted by schroedm (Post 11655842)

I haven't yet flown my SG Hawk, its structurally finished, ready for paint.

However, I do not think moving the pivot point of the stab. will be detrimental, just the opposite. It is now pretty much in the scale position and the designers of the real Hawk put it there with good reason, even though they have a 3000psi hydraulic jack to do the work !

That said as I have no real world data with which to work, I do not know the degree of aerodynamic balance (or even overbalance) at various angles and speeds so I am taking no chances and two JR 6311 HV servos should be more than enough power for all combinations of speed and deflection.

My two AW Hawks have the stab . pivot point in about the scale position and the Weatronics data does not show any large increases in current draw at large stab. deflections even at relatively high speeds suggesting the stab. servos are not working particularly hard.

One point I will make, though is this: If you move the stab. pivot point forward it is neccessary to adjust the pivot point of the "horn" so that the angle formed between the pivot of the stab, the axis of the "ball link" and the pushrod is at 90 degrees which meant, on my SG Hawk, making a new pair of horns so that the pivot point was moved forward by 1 inch.

I have now seen two Hawks crash with loss of pitch control in a turn (SV's at Jet Power last year and the Finnish one at Meiringen) but I think very powerful servos with correct geometry is the way to go

David.
.

Joerg,

I'll take 2 :)

People, maybe a dumb question but I will throw it out there...

Are people gluing the inlets / ducts in place or having them removable for easier fuse access?