warhead evo?
#2

My Feedback: (35)
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Tuckerman, AR
ORIGINAL: d3d5
is the warhead evo any good? i'm thinking of getting one. i just bash no racing
is the warhead evo any good? i'm thinking of getting one. i just bash no racing
#6
Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Geneva, IL
DO NOT BUY THIS TRUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It is a maintenance nightmare.
ask anyone who has one how hard it is to remove the engine.
You need to disassemble the whole truck and since you stripped all the screws taking it apart you should replace them.
after they explain to you how to get the engine out ask them how to remove the transmision for maintenace or to replace the spur gear.
will not even get into the worn out drive pins or the cracking motor mount.
DO NOT BUY THIS TRUCK!!!!!!!!
Former warhead owner.
Steve
It is a maintenance nightmare.
ask anyone who has one how hard it is to remove the engine.
You need to disassemble the whole truck and since you stripped all the screws taking it apart you should replace them.
after they explain to you how to get the engine out ask them how to remove the transmision for maintenace or to replace the spur gear.
will not even get into the worn out drive pins or the cracking motor mount.
DO NOT BUY THIS TRUCK!!!!!!!!
Former warhead owner.
Steve
#7
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: springfield,
OH
I own a warhead and I love the truck. If this is your first Nitro, I would recommend something different. There is a lot of maint to do on this truck. I wish this truck came as a kit, rather than a ready to run. I've had a lot of repairs and issue with mine, but then again, most of which were from me bashing the living heck out of it. I don't know if Duratrax still offers the warranty, but almost everything I've broken, they've replaced for free. All in all, if you've had nitro experience and like fixing things yourself...Pick one up. If not, ask your LHS what they've had the best experience with.
#8
ORIGINAL: choops01
DO NOT BUY THIS TRUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It is a maintenance nightmare.
ask anyone who has one how hard it is to remove the engine.
You need to disassemble the whole truck and since you stripped all the screws taking it apart you should replace them.
after they explain to you how to get the engine out ask them how to remove the transmision for maintenace or to replace the spur gear.
will not even get into the worn out drive pins or the cracking motor mount.
DO NOT BUY THIS TRUCK!!!!!!!!
Former warhead owner.
Steve
DO NOT BUY THIS TRUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It is a maintenance nightmare.
ask anyone who has one how hard it is to remove the engine.
You need to disassemble the whole truck and since you stripped all the screws taking it apart you should replace them.
after they explain to you how to get the engine out ask them how to remove the transmision for maintenace or to replace the spur gear.
will not even get into the worn out drive pins or the cracking motor mount.
DO NOT BUY THIS TRUCK!!!!!!!!
Former warhead owner.
Steve
#9
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: springfield,
OH
I leave the header pipe on. I hate dealing with the spring. I remove the gas tank (i eliminated the primer tank), unscrew the motor mount from frame. And you can take out the motor with the header pipe still on. -EXTRA- is correct. About a 5 minute job. If you want to disassemble the whole truck, you can do that too!
#10
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: cleveland,
OH
Same here,about 5 min to remove engine,had some minor clutch problems but over all not a bad truck at all.Evo only has one tank and yes remove tank so you don't have to mess with header spring.I have a few trucks and it is the same with all trucks, 1st time apart scratch head twice,second time apart no scratching
#11
Ahh ok thank's guy's i also dont like dealing with that spring i just never tried with the header still on so i didnt even bother good to know i can leave it on[8D] but yea i got her half way tuned today just a few more tweaks and she should be ready for action.
#12
Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: lyons,
OR
hi guys. I just purchased the warhead evo 2 days ago.its on the way to me now. I hear mixed reviews about it but like one guy said ..how often do you hear someone make posts about positive stuff? they only post for the most part when pissed or needing hlep with repairs.. so of course it seems negative. anyhow.. i have seen a quite a bit of posting about run temps.. my tsunami ran at 225-250 with a .18 engine(this was my first nitro). and i have been told that an engine head should never read over 260-270 very max or your cookin motor. but i am hearing people (including hobby shop people) say 300 is good running temp for the evo?? I would like several more opinions on this matter..no newbie answer please..experienced evo owner answers only. and also, should it be a different temp during breakin? one more question. its my understanding that you keep your idle screw hole at about a 3 millimeter opening.so, why would it matter how much air an air filter can collect if only so much can go threw the carb anyway?asking this cause I was thinkin of getting a k&n air filter which says it increases air flow by 50-200 percent. what good is that if flow is restriced inside carb?doesn't too much air kill engine?? thanks for responses in advance guys..much appreciated.
#13
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 865
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: baltic,
CT
I think this is a great truck you just have to get to know it, taking it apart is a pain the first time but once you figure out what order to takes things off its a breeze. Even with the problems i've had I still love it because something goes wrong you just call duratrax and they replace it for free if its not your fault. I've only had a few problems with the truck but im sure its do to me not going over it before using. The first problem was the topshaft gear had the pin break on it into three pieces. The last problem was the CV joints dogbones were wearing fast, and it blew a pin in the lower joint, but after a talk with a technician at duratrax they told me that it was because my truck was set up in rumble mode. They said that the angle that the CV joints were at that there was too much added stress on the trucks CV joint components and that they will always abnormally wear unless you keep the truck at factory settings. This is a fast truck although it wont do wheelies, it is made for racing, it has excellent handling and after some hop ups this truck is really insanly fast. I have Aluminum transmission cases front and back, aluminum bulkheads front and back, aluminum clutch shoes, aluminum steering bellcrank, aluminum draglink, ultralight clutch bell, and reverse eliminator, and i removed the shifting servo. I also noticed that the aluminum steering bellcrank and draglink produce a much better handling truck. JM2C and i hope that i helped save anyone from any unneeded aggrivation.
Josh
Josh
#14
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 513
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: beachwood,
OH
i can't decide between the warhead evo, tower terror .25, and aftershock.
i will do only bashing and i will get it for the holidays so i will be running in snow. the aftershock is the most expenive truck i can get if you have any other options that would be great thanks
i will do only bashing and i will get it for the holidays so i will be running in snow. the aftershock is the most expenive truck i can get if you have any other options that would be great thanks
#15
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 865
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: baltic,
CT
mgoodell1976 the K&N increases the amount of air/fuel mixture and creates a bigger explosion in the camber when you have the car floored doesnt really do anything to the idle, but anyways more air=more fuel=more power, just like in a real car. As for the engine temp i've been running mine around 240-260, just make sure you cut a hole in the windshield for airflow over the engine or it will overheat to the 300's.
#16
last time i checked the after shock is only 319.
and the war head was like 349. If your just starting out dont get the warhead. It takes alot of maitnence and hard to work on from what i heard.
and the war head was like 349. If your just starting out dont get the warhead. It takes alot of maitnence and hard to work on from what i heard.
#17
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 865
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: baltic,
CT
d3d5 i woudnt even concider the the tower terror its a one hit wonder all it can do is wheelies thats about it and its also alot smaller than the other two trucks its 1/10 scale truck with a big block in it, and its only a one speed
lol so as you can amagine its a slower truck. My dad has an after shock and i have to say it looks impressive, but i still like my warhead better
JM2C
Josh
lol so as you can amagine its a slower truck. My dad has an after shock and i have to say it looks impressive, but i still like my warhead better
JM2C Josh
#18
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 513
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: beachwood,
OH
its not my first nitro i've had 2 nitro's and 1 electric. I was reading and people seem to break a lot on the warhead so i think i will read more about the aftershock.
#22
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 513
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: beachwood,
OH
my redcat tornado bb has taken so much abuse and the only damage i had so far was 2 benst dog bones. i've hit tree's at wot. and hit jumps at wot and landed upside down and guess wat no damage from the jump



Duratrax has been out for a long time and they are not going anywere no time soon!!!![sm=thumbup.gif]