I'm really sorry if his has already been asked, did some searching but didn't really see anything specific to the problem I'm having.

Just got back into the hobby after about a 10 year break

Picked up a nitro rustler and it runs awesome. But when I hit the power it pulls to the right. I played with the slipper clutch a little but no serious improvements. When holding the spur gear, the right wheel seems to spin more freely than the left. Is this a diff issue? I've heard people say is has oil and I can change to a heavier oil. The last time I went into a tranny they were just greased, but that was 10 years ago! lol

Thanks in advance!

First, make sure that everything spins smoothly and operates smoothly by itself, but you most likely will need to put a thicker silicone oil in the diff. I've found that Traxxas has the cheapest out there, try 30k and see how you like that and if it still pulls, then try 50k.

Diff oil will leak out of a nitro rustler diff. The diff is not sealed in any way. Silicone diff oil can be used, however it will make somewhat of a mess when it leaks and will require refilling periodically. I've seen higher viscosity diff grease that has weight ratings just like the diff oil does. This would be the alternative to regular automotive grease.

The problem with nitro rustler differentials is from the factory, they come with grease in the diff. Chances are some of the grease liquified and seeped out of the diff. You will want to pull the diff out and look through it. Most likely it needs a fresh load of grease. Axle bearing grease is fine but if the problem persists after re-packing it with grease, you will probably want to find a thicker grease.

Opps, didn't realize that it wasn't a sealed diff.

my traxxas jato dose the samething pulls when i gun it off the line couild it be the same problom

Here's an option that will make turning a little trickier but will make it shoot straight and not pull off to one side.

make it a posi...!


http://cgi.ebay.com/Traxxas-Slash-St...item5d2d02decd

I sense a diff rebuild. What I think is happening is your diff is so worn out that it defaults to one wheel peel when you spike the gas. This causes the truck to pull. It might also have a sticking bearing on one side, either in the hub or at the diff, which is forcing the diff to unload.

A temporary drive-around-it solution would be to smoothly roll into the throttle. This won't overwhelm the diff and should help it track straighter.

A permanent solution would be to overhaul the diff and replace all the bearings from the diff to the wheels.

ok thanks for the info guys it looks like a diff rebuild is in order. I have an idea tho.

When I seperate the cases, I was thinking about cutting a thin groove around the outer edges and using a permatex or rtv sealer, pretty much to make a non-permanent gasket for the case, then making refiller hole on top and sealing it with a grub screw or somethin. I'd prefer an oil over grease, so hopefully that would help with the leaks.

And if that sounds like a good idea, how much should you fill the diff up? All the way? half way?

I've had a nitro sport or nitro rustler for many years. In fact it'll be 14 years this year. I've used many things to keep the diff holding together. Oil will only work for a short time no matter how you try to seal it. If you could get the cover sealed, the oil will still eventually leak out around the axle studs. I have used Silicone diff oil in the past but I would have to refill it every other time I ran it. (I used 30k fluid) You could use thicker but I think the end result will be the same. I would find some thick grease, or you could lock the diff. A Spool would work but its cheaper to use silly putty or epoxy putty. I have used both, The Epoxy putty being a more permanent/maintenance free option. Turning suffers a bit from this, but helps both tires get equal power.

If you lock the diff, you should glue the tires really well and balance them. Most tires wobble a lot and if not balanced will cause it to not launch straight.

I am now bald because of a similar problem. I went through everything! in the end, it turned out to be a twisted chassis.

I once completely tore down a GT transmission because of this problem. Turned out of be a small peice of fishing line wrapped around the axle near the outer bearing. It spun free by hand, but I guess would tighten down under load and cause it to pull to the side.

I've ran into the same problem here and there with my Nitro rustler over the years and I chalked it up to the diff being the problem. The grease I was using wasnt viscous enough and would cause the diff to favor the one wheel. I've noticed my 3.3 Rusty likes to "walk" when in wheelie mode where it hops from one tire to the other.. I was going to cure that problem with longer suspension arms from a Jato. A buddy did this on his N.Rusty 3.3 - he used Jato driveshafts and Jato rear arms and he said it was a totally new beast. This could be something worth looking into.