Rcadmin
IS THE MAN!!!!!!!![sm=thumbup.gif][sm=thumbup.gif]


OOOHHHH YYEEAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!

its back yeeehhhhaaww

Can someone help me, i am having trouble priming the engine, and YES i am plugging the exhaust. i also checked the tubing to see if there were holes in them. what else could be the problem??[sm=confused.gif]

The air filter oil and the thread locking compound...What could these have as substitute?
Is it really important to use the thread locking compound?

make sure ur manifold is on tight and ur glo plug is on tight and make sure ur car doesnt have n e air leaks...

well. by nitro evader st just make through his first gallon. so here are the the miss, the hit and the weird of my first experience:

the hit
-the engine, very reliable, very powerful, i can use it with the bx gear (17-56) and its still got power enough to do donuts on asphalt with road rage2 and now its got a better top speed.
-the servo, not mater what some peoples say, the original servo are good enough to do the job.
- frame toughness, after a full speed crash into a soccer goal pole, just one a arm broke
- the break, good breaking, what else i can say !!!
the miss
-the gas tank, (sight) leak, broken,dos not close properly, to small for a .18.......total crap
- the ball differential, its suppose to be adjustable, but if u not adjust it the way duratrax say, it dont last. so after all its not adjustable... thats my opinion anyway.
-the wheel, its a urge guys... change those wheel for some losi one. seem like the original one are tough as Ritz crackers!!!
-the front shocks coil spring. they are too smooth, adjust it the way u want they wont handle big jump.

the weird.
-some time, he doing wheelie, for no reason..
-lots of interference in the radio system.

the verdict -since it a cheap truck ( i pay mind 325 canadian dolard ,250 us fond) u can say that u have more than u can expect from this truck, good engine, fun to drive, EZ to tune and mantain. quick and EZ brake-in, CV drive shaft... adjustable pistol radio. i love my evader. but please, duratrax guys, fix that POS gas tank.

see ya[8D]

you may love your truck grossepoche, but i HATE mine...i keep breakin stuff for no reason, going 5 mph, something will just brake, its like the truck is made out of paper. (no wonder you can send stuff in when it breaks, because there are A LOT of people that have stuff breakin on their car, and they dont want the customers to complain)
i was out at the track today, and after 5 min of driving in circles, i hear a slight growling coming from the car, i pick it up, give it some gas, and i dont hear it anymore, only when i put it on the ground and drive it, i hear it (must be the tranny) and then 2 min later the servo isnt letting me turn left, (must be the gears) but i put in new gears in the servo and loosened the servo saver this morning (and it still breaks) ...CHEAP!!....so do u think the slight growling are the gears in the tranny? some guy at the track told me to take it apart and check it out, because if i let it go on like that it will mess up other parts in there

ok i took apart the tranny and all the gears seem fine (no broken teeth or anything) and then when i took the differential gear out (the differential outdrives were still attached, so i tried holding the gear with one hand and tried spinning one of the outdrives, and it was so hard to spin it (thats not supposed to be that hard to spin it is it?) i tried loosenind the cap screw (that goes in to the outdrives) and it spins freely now but its too loose, if i tighten it a little bit, its hard to spin it (so whats causing it to not spin freely???) thanx 4 your replys

well..... i can not disagree about your trany, since mind do the same. i fund out that the left side of the trany case was not propely adjust to the right side of the trany. so that make all the system band. what i did is: i rebuilt my trany with two VERY LITTLE drop of glue betwen the two part of the case to hold them in place as i thighten the screw. and its was just enought to get it run freely. if u want to do that, make sure before that there is no dirt inside your trany and check your bearing, if they are not good or if they are offset on the shaft, they will thigh the shaft as you thigth the trany. hope this can help. that crap that u spen more time fixing then runing. but as i said, its a 250$ machine so u canot expect the same quality then on some 400$ machine. somtime you have a choice to make, spend more on the buy and less than, or spen less on the buy and more than. for me i make that choice because that was my first taste of nitro so i dont whant to spend much, just in case. but dont be worry about my advice, i've been doing RC for 18 years and i got 10 years of mechanic experience. (with electro-mecanic diploma) PM me if you want

Hi will the aluminum idler gear from the nitro evader fit on the electric evader? The stock plastic one from the nitro is the same as the electric so the aluminum should be the same size. But I do know that the differntial does not fit, says at towerhobbies.

Thanks

Yes it wll

okay great thanks. You won't happen to know if there is any aluminum differntial that will fit?

Thanks for the help

Duratrax does not make an aluminim diff for the electric. Dont know why, maybe they think its not important enough. But with all the diff gears on the market there maybe one for another brand RC that will fit. My suggestion would be to take your diff gear to your LHS and attack the parts wall and start comparing.

i'm tryin to get the head off of my engine, but i already worn out two allen wrenches. is there another way of unscrewing the 4 screws? i'm tryin to clean the head and get all the dirt out because thats probably why my engine doesnt sound right (there's dust/dirt in it) i cant even move the screw, it just wears out the wrench

Is it normal for my car to make noise when i just push it forwards wih the engine off?

if it's a whining/grinding noise, no. if it's just a gear meshing on gear noise, a whir, yes.

Thnx Dicko, i have an other question, you remember when you told me about the polarity in the charger jack and the one on my charger that i had to check them, but how can i know what + is and what - is? And also what should the input volt be from the charger to the charger jack?
[&:]

on the charger it will have a little diagram with an open circle with a dot in the middle and a line coming from it. on the end of this line will be either a + or - totell you which polarity it is. in the instruction manual for the radio gear there should also be one of these diagrams. as for the voltage I can't remember off the top of my head & I don't have my charger with me. you local hobby shop should have a range of chargers that are designed for this purpose that are pretty cheap, if you took the radio in with you they should be able to work out what you need. get a recharge switch & battery pack for the truck while your there, then you can plug the car & truck in with the one charger the night before & they will be ready in the morning. I make my own battery packs. cheaper (less than 1/2 price) & easier.

Hi all,

I just received a Nitro Evader ST that I ordered a couple of weeks ago, and I read through this entire thread (gasp!) in the meantime--it's packed with useful info. I have a couple of questions before I begin the break-in process. First of all, I would like to hear anyone's opinion on both a fuel filter and fail-safe that has worked well for their Nitro Evader. Second, I read in here somewhere (I think, or it may have been another site) that any Pro-line body designed for the Nitro XXT will fit the Evader. Anyone had any luck? My Pro-line F-150 won't fit because of the exhaust pipe, unless I want to cut out half of that side, but I think it was perhaps designed for an RC10GT (...?). Finally, I think it was crazyswede that posted a pic way back of an RPM front bumper which I'd like to get to replace the toothpick they ship the truck with, but I can't seem to find it, or a product #, etc. Thanks in advance!

When breaking in your evader or anytime I would put threadlock on youre manifold bolts because they willcome off

run it in much richer than the instructions say, start about 3 & a half turns out or more, if you run it in too lean you'll wear out the piston & liner. I posted a thread or two back along the way how I run my engines in. I run a RC 10GT fuel tank which has a built in fuel filter and an inline fuel filter as well. any fuel filter you get at your LHS should be ok. I run a simple failsafe as well, cost me 30 bucks australian and worth every cent. I picked it up when I got my fuel filter. your local hobby shop should have a few in stock to choose from.

Good Luck.

Dicko, you told me about the sign, that i could find in the instruction manuel of the radio, but thers nothing like it in mine[&o]so is there any other way to know whats what?
By the way i have a TOWER HOBBIES SYSTEM 3000.
And my spur gear wich is worn out on one side, can i enjoy driving my car till its totally worn out or will that damage some other parts?

Thnx a lot

hey, go to towerhobbies.com
for the failsafe im using the micro ofna tower part #lxeyg2
for the bumper tower part #lxctw1.
for the price they are both well worth it. I'm also using a dubro fuel flter part #lxfrl5
type the part #s in their little search box and it will take you right there.

Thanks again everyone for the suggestions, and Ray for the product #'s. I'm anxious to get going on the break-in, but I also was wondering about the stock steering servo problem that has been talked about. I was planning on shortening the spring like several people have suggested in order to avoid stripping the gears, but then I wondered if the problem had been brought to the attention of Duratrax and they included shorter springs in the newer units. It seems like it would be a rather simple and inexpensive correction to make, and it would save their service dept. a lot of headache. I emailed hobby services to find out about this before I go clipping springs, and I am currently awaiting a response. I plan to upgrade eventually to a stronger, metal gear servo, but I'm broke right now, and I also don't feel like waiting several weeks for service/replacement parts, so I'd really like to stretch out the life of this one as much as possible for the time being. Anyone have luck with the factory set spring--particularly anyone with a newer truck--or is it clippin' time?
Jed

Hey Jed,
I have got about 2 Gallons thru my evader(that was purchased in feb.) and my steering servo is workin like new...
I have run all sorts of tires including masher2k's. Jumped it (10-12ft In the air) as well as the long jump,flipped it, rolled it....basically beaten the piss out of it. and that steering servo is workin fine...
It's been two weeks since I've run it.....took it out today and had a ***** of a time startin it. now i have to mess with the carb settings to see whats goin on[:@]
Got tired of messin with it just to burn thru one tank...so I put it away...I'll try again tomarrow[&o]